Knowledge (XXG)

Ashley Mears

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hope will lead to greater recognition and higher-prestige jobs, but that very few models ever successfully attain such recognition, with the rest gradually aging out of the industry, sometimes while in debt to their modeling agencies, or switching to more lucrative but less prestigious commercial modeling.
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is about "how fashion insiders create aesthetic value," it also examines "the organization of markets, the process of cultural production, and reproduction of inequalities." Mears found that most fashion models operate against their short-term economic interests by accepting low-paying jobs that they
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In addition to her own publications, Mears is regularly cited by print and web media on issues in culture, markets, and work, such as why many models come from one region of the United States, how celebrity scandals affect the reputation of popular hotels and nightspots, whether fashion modeling is
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analyzes the elite global party circuit as "a complex world of exchange and exploitation" in which club owners, promoters, and attractive women negotiate relationships and status in a social world of "gendered and racialized hierarchies". Mears found that men, particularly promoters, played a large
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identifies the industry's idiosyncratic beauty standards as a major obstacle to success for models, not only in preferring "size-zero" body types, but in preferring white women above other women even within the "size-zero" category. Like other "ethnic" models, Mears was specifically advised not to
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at the age of 23 to pursue a Ph.D. in sociology. In New York she was again scouted for modeling jobs, and decided to focus her graduate research on the culture and economics of the modeling industry. She falsified her age, claiming to be younger, to get modeling jobs, then conducted a covert
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mention her Korean heritage at castings. Mears concluded that industry insiders were not simply reflecting social preferences, but were actively producing beauty images designed to reproduce what sociologist Laura Grindstaff, in her review for
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of women in the workplace. In 2022, Mears was promoted to full professor of sociology at Boston University. In 2024, she began an appointment as Professor and Chair of Cultural Sociology and New Media at the
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criticized this conclusion, suggesting that "Mears's attempts to make the numbers support her critique of the fashion industry for its whiteness reveal more about her wish to expose it than anything else."
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role in determining the value of women's beauty in the elite party scene, but that women were also willing participants seeking to achieve their own aspirations. Writing for
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study by taking notes and interviewing fellow models, scouts, and agents while working as a model in New York and London, including multiple appearances on the runway at
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but continued her modeling work by spending summers working overseas. After completing her undergraduate education, she spent a year modeling in Asia, then moved to
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was "probably too complex for the average reader" but praised the book as "a well-researched, well-written, and thorough study of the industry."
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research on women recruited by promoters to attend VIP parties and nightlife events. That research was the basis for her 2020 book
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for exploring the nuances of social relationships "without passing predictable moral judgement".
284: 564: 461: 866: 629: 603: 362: 349: 271: 227: 112: 968: 802: 727: 694: 670: 397: 1113: 328: 262:, called "the gendered and racialized value hierarchies attached to beauty." A review in 170: 1230: 982: 861: 814: 202: 1080: 1014: 293: 207: 173:. She is currently Professor and Chair of Cultural Sociology and New Media at the 68: 806: 607: 466: 973: 30: 1043:"A Mixed Bag of Publicity for NYC's Standard Hotel After Elevator Spat" 194: 80: 359:
Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit
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Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit
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Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit
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Pricing Beauty: The Production of Value in Fashion Modeling Markets
495:"Conversations: Ashley Mears Talks about the Ethnography of Desire" 86:
Pricing Beauty: The Production of Value in Fashion Modeling Markets
1169:"Faculty Research Fellow Ashley Mears Promoted to Full Professor" 1076:"Model life: to call it indentured servitude is no exaggeration" 153: 756:"Fashion industry gets an insider's look in 'Pricing Beauty'" 226:
in 2009, Mears became an assistant professor of sociology at
530:"The Life Of A Fashion Model: Grueling, Not Glitzy" 238:. Sociologist Heather Laine Talley, writing in the 148: 134: 126: 105: 97: 92: 79: 67: 57: 52: 40: 21: 787:Grindstaff, Laura (March 20, 2013). "Book Review: 327:, whether "sexbots" will replace spouses, and the 1173:Boston University Pardee School of Global Studies 505:Section on Organizations, Occupations, and Work. 862:"Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model" 169:is an American writer, sociologist, and former 1262:Academic staff of the University of Amsterdam 789:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 657:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 346:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 232:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 179:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 139:Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model 8: 1135:Bennett-Smith, Meredith (April 18, 2017). 29: 18: 1277:21st-century American non-fiction writers 972: 924: 922: 393:"A former model delves into the industry" 386: 384: 382: 536:(Interview). Interviewed by Neal Conan. 1297:Female models from Georgia (U.S. state) 959:"Very Important People by Ashley Mears" 378: 348:(University of California Press, 2011) 1149:from the original on September 3, 2018 1088:from the original on September 3, 2018 1055:from the original on September 3, 2018 1022:from the original on September 3, 2018 907:from the original on September 3, 2018 874:from the original on September 3, 2018 842:from the original on September 4, 2018 768:from the original on September 3, 2018 735:from the original on September 3, 2018 702:from the original on September 3, 2018 636:from the original on September 3, 2018 544:from the original on September 3, 2018 509:from the original on September 4, 2018 474:from the original on September 3, 2018 441:from the original on September 3, 2018 427:Heyman, Stephen (September 21, 2011). 422: 420: 405:from the original on September 3, 2018 1179:from the original on December 9, 2022 1010:"The Midwest, Home of the Supermodel" 989:from the original on December 9, 2022 688:Copeland, Libby (September 7, 2011). 391:Giacobbe, Alyssa (January 15, 2012). 7: 1107:Rossman, Gabriel (August 16, 2018). 893:Mears, Ashley (September 20, 2014). 828:Shteir, Rachel (December 11, 2011). 721:Schama, Chloë (September 18, 2011). 575:from the original on October 1, 2016 528:Mears, Ashley (September 28, 2011). 460:Lamb, Christina (December 4, 2011). 434:T: The New York Times Style Magazine 1252:21st-century American women writers 1137:"The case for being grumpy at work" 1074:Hackman, Rose (February 19, 2015). 754:Causey, Adera (November 20, 2011). 361:(Princeton University Press, 2020) 1282:American women non-fiction writers 14: 1302:American people of Korean descent 1292:Writers from Georgia (U.S. state) 1207:. October 6, 2023. Archived from 835:The Chronicle of Higher Education 503:American Sociological Association 265:The Chronicle of Higher Education 1008:Khazan, Olga (August 13, 2015). 690:"America's Next Top Sociologist" 1041:Sneed, Tierney (May 13, 2014). 655:Talley, Heather Laine (2012). " 493:Vallas, Steven (May 30, 2016). 16:American writer and sociologist 929:Bloch, Alice (July 31, 2020). 236:University of California Press 1: 936:The Times Literary Supplement 662:American Journal of Sociology 565:"Models of the World, Unite!" 312:The Times Literary Supplement 241:American Journal of Sociology 222:After earning her Ph.D. from 1267:University of Georgia alumni 1048:U.S. News & World Report 957:Pryke, Sam (April 8, 2021). 761:Chattanooga Times Free Press 1287:American women sociologists 282:Mears has also written for 1318: 1272:New York University alumni 302:Princeton University Press 1257:Boston University faculty 830:"Taking Beauty's Measure" 300:, which was published by 288:about her research after 177:. Mears is the author of 144: 48: 28: 1247:American women academics 807:10.1177/0891243212461302 563:Krueger, Alyson (2012). 189:Early life and education 1204:University of Amsterdam 964:The Sociological Review 334:University of Amsterdam 292:, including her covert 175:University of Amsterdam 118:University of Amsterdam 1109:"Of Wives and Widgets" 594:Mears, Ashley (2009). 130:Culture, markets, work 44:Professor of Sociology 1242:American sociologists 974:10.51428/tsr.isgh1821 895:"Who Runs the Girls?" 538:National Public Radio 317:Very Important People 315:, Alice Bloch lauded 306:Very Important People 234:was published by the 212:New York Fashion Week 199:University of Georgia 62:University of Georgia 794:Gender & Society 659:. By Ashley Mears". 325:indentured servitude 259:Gender & Society 870:. October 3, 2011. 600:New York University 569:NYU Alumni Magazine 429:"A Model Professor" 244:, noted that while 230:. In 2011 her book 224:New York University 193:Mears grew up near 74:New York University 53:Academic background 900:The New York Times 534:Talk of the Nation 285:The New York Times 1211:on March 16, 2024 1175:. April 8, 2022. 931:"The Cost of Fun" 867:Publishers Weekly 630:Boston University 272:Publishers Weekly 228:Boston University 164: 163: 113:Boston University 1309: 1221: 1220: 1218: 1216: 1195: 1189: 1188: 1186: 1184: 1165: 1159: 1158: 1156: 1154: 1132: 1126: 1125: 1123: 1121: 1104: 1098: 1097: 1095: 1093: 1071: 1065: 1064: 1062: 1060: 1038: 1032: 1031: 1029: 1027: 1005: 999: 998: 996: 994: 976: 954: 948: 947: 945: 943: 926: 917: 916: 914: 912: 890: 884: 883: 881: 879: 858: 852: 851: 849: 847: 825: 819: 818: 784: 778: 777: 775: 773: 751: 745: 744: 742: 740: 728:The New Republic 723:"The Skin Trade" 718: 712: 711: 709: 707: 685: 679: 678: 669:(6): 1853–1855. 652: 646: 645: 643: 641: 618: 612: 611: 591: 585: 584: 582: 580: 560: 554: 553: 551: 549: 525: 519: 518: 516: 514: 499:Work in Progress 490: 484: 483: 481: 479: 457: 451: 450: 448: 446: 424: 415: 414: 412: 410: 398:The Boston Globe 388: 160: 157: 155: 33: 19: 1317: 1316: 1312: 1311: 1310: 1308: 1307: 1306: 1227: 1226: 1225: 1224: 1214: 1212: 1197: 1196: 1192: 1182: 1180: 1167: 1166: 1162: 1152: 1150: 1134: 1133: 1129: 1119: 1117: 1114:National Review 1106: 1105: 1101: 1091: 1089: 1073: 1072: 1068: 1058: 1056: 1040: 1039: 1035: 1025: 1023: 1007: 1006: 1002: 992: 990: 956: 955: 951: 941: 939: 928: 927: 920: 910: 908: 892: 891: 887: 877: 875: 860: 859: 855: 845: 843: 827: 826: 822: 786: 785: 781: 771: 769: 753: 752: 748: 738: 736: 720: 719: 715: 705: 703: 687: 686: 682: 654: 653: 649: 639: 637: 620: 619: 615: 593: 592: 588: 578: 576: 571:. No. 19. 562: 561: 557: 547: 545: 527: 526: 522: 512: 510: 492: 491: 487: 477: 475: 462:"Model Student" 459: 458: 454: 444: 442: 426: 425: 418: 408: 406: 390: 389: 380: 375: 342: 329:emotional labor 220: 191: 152: 122: 36: 24: 17: 12: 11: 5: 1315: 1313: 1305: 1304: 1299: 1294: 1289: 1284: 1279: 1274: 1269: 1264: 1259: 1254: 1249: 1244: 1239: 1229: 1228: 1223: 1222: 1190: 1160: 1127: 1099: 1066: 1033: 1000: 949: 918: 885: 853: 820: 801:(2): 260–262. 779: 746: 713: 680: 675:10.1086/664830 647: 622:"Ashley Mears" 613: 586: 555: 520: 485: 452: 416: 377: 376: 374: 371: 370: 369: 356: 341: 338: 290:Pricing Beauty 277:Pricing Beauty 253:Pricing Beauty 246:Pricing Beauty 219: 216: 190: 187: 162: 161: 150: 146: 145: 142: 141: 136: 132: 131: 128: 127:Main interests 124: 123: 121: 120: 115: 109: 107: 103: 102: 99: 95: 94: 90: 89: 83: 77: 76: 71: 65: 64: 59: 55: 54: 50: 49: 46: 45: 42: 38: 37: 34: 26: 25: 22: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1314: 1303: 1300: 1298: 1295: 1293: 1290: 1288: 1285: 1283: 1280: 1278: 1275: 1273: 1270: 1268: 1265: 1263: 1260: 1258: 1255: 1253: 1250: 1248: 1245: 1243: 1240: 1238: 1237:Living people 1235: 1234: 1232: 1210: 1206: 1205: 1200: 1194: 1191: 1178: 1174: 1170: 1164: 1161: 1148: 1144: 1143: 1138: 1131: 1128: 1116: 1115: 1110: 1103: 1100: 1087: 1083: 1082: 1077: 1070: 1067: 1054: 1050: 1049: 1044: 1037: 1034: 1021: 1017: 1016: 1011: 1004: 1001: 988: 984: 980: 975: 970: 966: 965: 960: 953: 950: 938: 937: 932: 925: 923: 919: 906: 902: 901: 896: 889: 886: 873: 869: 868: 863: 857: 854: 841: 837: 836: 831: 824: 821: 816: 812: 808: 804: 800: 796: 795: 790: 783: 780: 767: 763: 762: 757: 750: 747: 734: 730: 729: 724: 717: 714: 701: 697: 696: 691: 684: 681: 676: 672: 668: 664: 663: 658: 651: 648: 635: 631: 627: 623: 617: 614: 609: 605: 601: 597: 590: 587: 574: 570: 566: 559: 556: 543: 539: 535: 531: 524: 521: 508: 504: 500: 496: 489: 486: 473: 469: 468: 463: 456: 453: 440: 436: 435: 430: 423: 421: 417: 404: 400: 399: 394: 387: 385: 383: 379: 372: 368: 367:9780691168654 364: 360: 357: 355: 354:9780520270763 351: 347: 344: 343: 339: 337: 335: 330: 326: 320: 318: 314: 313: 307: 303: 299: 295: 291: 287: 286: 280: 278: 274: 273: 267: 266: 261: 260: 254: 250: 247: 243: 242: 237: 233: 229: 225: 217: 215: 213: 209: 204: 203:New York City 200: 196: 188: 186: 184: 180: 176: 172: 171:fashion model 168: 159: 151: 147: 143: 140: 137: 135:Notable works 133: 129: 125: 119: 116: 114: 111: 110: 108: 104: 100: 96: 93:Academic work 91: 87: 84: 82: 78: 75: 72: 70: 66: 63: 60: 56: 51: 47: 43: 39: 35:Mears in 2020 32: 27: 20: 1213:. 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Index

face and shoulders of Ashley Mears from online 2020 interview
University of Georgia
Alma mater
New York University
Thesis
Boston University
University of Amsterdam
www.ashleymears.com
fashion model
University of Amsterdam
Atlanta
University of Georgia
New York City
ethnographic
New York Fashion Week
New York University
Boston University
University of California Press
American Journal of Sociology
Gender & Society
The Chronicle of Higher Education
Publishers Weekly
The New York Times
ethnographic
Princeton University Press
The Times Literary Supplement
indentured servitude
emotional labor
University of Amsterdam
ISBN

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