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in 1991 caused many young men to lose their previously guaranteed government jobs and scholarships. This led many to take up bògòlanfini production. Consequently, most cloth is now produced by men rather than women, and the traditional year-long apprenticeships have been replaced by short, informal
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Based on these simplified techniques, as of around 2000 large quantities of bògòlanfini are being mass-produced for tourist and export markets. These fabrics use simpler designs, often applied by stencil, painted in black on a yellow or orange background. With this method, the cloth can be produced
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Bògòlanfini patterns are rich in cultural significance, referring to historical events (such as a famous battle between a Malian warrior and the French), crocodiles (significant in
Bambara mythology), and other objects, mythological concepts, or proverbs. Since about 1980, Bògòlanfini has become a
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In Mali, the cloth is worn by people of all ethnicities, including prominently in Malian cinema and by Malian musicians, either as an expression of national or ethnic identity or as a fashion statement. Particularly popular among young people, bògòlanfini is made into a wide range of clothes,
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Based in
Kolokani, in the Beledougou region of Mali, Bamana artist Nakunte Diarra has been making bogolanfiniw (mud-dyed cloth) since the 1950s. She employs techniques that she learned from her grandmother and today is widely recognized as Mali's greatest living bogolan
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In traditional bògòlanfini production, men weave the cloth and women dye it. On narrow looms, strips of cotton fabric about 15 centimetres (5.9 in) wide are woven and stitched into cloths about 1 metre (3 ft) wide and 1.5 metres (5 ft) long.
383:, six artists collaborating since 1978. These paintings are produced with vegetable dyes and mud, but often feature designs unrelated to those of traditional fabrics; their newer motifs are also often found on clothing. Other notable creators include
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The dyeing (a "strange and cumbersome technique", according to Donne (1973)) begins with a step invisible in the finished product: The cloth is soaked in a dye bath made from leaves of the
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Traditional bògòlanfini designs are also used for on a wide range of commercial products, such as coffee mugs, curtains, towels, sheets, book covers and wrapping paper.
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dye is removed from the unmarked parts of the cloth by applying soap or bleach, rendering the finished cloth white with dark marks where it was painted.
310:) and immediately after childbirth, as the cloth is believed to have the power to absorb the dangerous forces released under such circumstances.
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After long use, the very dark brown color turns a variety of rich tones of brown, while the unpainted underside of the fabric retains a pale
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Bògòlanfini has become a popular Malian export, notably to the United States. There, it is marketed as
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Imperato, Pascal James; Shamir, Marli (Summer 1970). "Bokolanfini: Mud cloth of the Bamana of Mali".
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The center of bògòlanfini production, and the source of the highest quality cloth, is the town of
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with a high iron content. The iron in the clay will stain handspun and handwoven cotton textiles
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cotton fabric traditionally dyed with fermented mud. It has an important place in traditional
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Rovine, Victoria (Winter 1997). "Bogolanfini in Bamako: The biography of a Malian textile".
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symbol of Malian cultural identity and is being promoted as such by the Malian government.
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452:"African fashion rules in British museum show, from chic dashikis to mud-dyed cloth"
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Bògòlanfini is also produced as fine art by several Malian artists, notably by the
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including
Western miniskirts and jackets as well as traditional flowing robes (
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about six to seven times faster. The democratic reforms after the overthrow of
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In traditional Malian culture, bògòlanfini is worn by hunters and serves as
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The dye technique is associated with several Malian ethnic groups, but the
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has been credited with popularizing bògòlanfini in international fashion.
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Donne, J.B. (1973). "Bogolanfini: A mud-painted cloth from Mali".
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Donne, J.B. (1973). "Bogolanfini: A mud-painted cloth from Mali".
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119:, meaning "cloth". Although usually translated as "mud cloth,"
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629:. Grey Art Gallery. New York University. pp. 58–59.
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83:. The cloth is exported worldwide for use in fashion,
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99:version has become best known outside Mali. In the
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894:"Bogolan Cloth: images of the production process"
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775:The Silence of the Women: Bamana Mud Cloths
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907:"Malian Bogolanfini and Cultural Identity"
743:"Mud cloth from Mali: Its making and use"
691:. Grey Art Gallery. New York University.
593:"Mud cloth from Mali: Its making and use"
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115:, meaning "with" or "by means of"; and
7:
714:Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion
544:Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion
796:. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing.
885:National Museum of Natural History
269:solution, made from the leaves of
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792:Hilu, Sam; Hersey, Irwin (2005).
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450:Marx, Willem (20 August 2022).
253:Variants and modern production
1:
143:Bògòlanfini in the market of
710:. In Steele, Valerie (ed.).
706:Rovine, Victoria L. (2005).
540:. In Steele, Valerie (ed.).
536:Rovine, Victoria L. (2005).
111:, meaning "earth" or "mud";
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905:Hager, Liz (1 March 2010).
773:Brett-Smith, Sarah (2014).
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741:Toerien, Elsje S. (2003).
591:Toerien, Elsje S. (2003).
27:Malian dyed cotton fabric
2562:Swatches and strike-offs
2465:Vitale Barberis Canonico
328:African American culture
326:, either as a symbol of
418:Smithsonian Institution
380:Groupe Bogolan Kasobané
272:Terminalia avicennoides
2603:Textile arts of Africa
1603:Vinyl coated polyester
881:"Discovering mudcloth"
420:. 2014. Archived from
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158:Traditional production
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794:Bogolanfini Mud Cloth
460:National Public Radio
342:A Bogolanfini shirt (
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298:Cultural significance
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91:Origins and etymology
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2435:Holland & Sherry
689:The Poetics of Cloth
627:The Poetics of Cloth
424:on 18 September 2018
173:Anogeissus leiocarpa
59:"; sometimes called
2537:History of textiles
852:(1): 40–51, 94–96.
294:training sessions.
123:actually refers to
2390:Woodblock printing
1919:Conductive textile
1088:Cedar bark textile
900:on 5 October 2009.
892:Enderle, Melissa.
458:. Goats and Soda.
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308:genital mutilation
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107:is a composite of
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36:Bògòlanfini fabric
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1944:Lenticular fabric
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1593:Vegetable flannel
803:978-0-7643-2187-0
698:978-0-615-22083-3
636:978-0-615-22083-3
81:cultural identity
65:mud-painted cloth
16:(Redirected from
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896:. Archived from
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71:) is a handmade
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718:. Vol. 1.
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2364:
2362:
2359:
2357:
2356:Sanforization
2354:
2352:
2349:
2346:
2345:
2340:
2338:
2335:
2333:
2330:
2328:
2325:
2323:
2320:
2318:
2317:Mercerization
2315:
2312:
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2306:
2303:
2302:
2297:
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2199:
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2119:
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2109:
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2099:
2097:
2094:
2092:
2089:
2087:
2084:
2082:
2079:
2077:
2074:
2072:(Manila hemp)
2071:
2068:
2067:
2065:
2063:
2059:
2051:
2048:
2047:
2046:
2043:
2041:
2038:
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2033:
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2028:
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2023:
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2018:
2016:
2013:
2011:
2008:
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2003:
2001:
1998:
1996:
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1991:
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1983:
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1927:
1925:
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1912:
1910:
1907:
1906:
1904:
1902:
1898:
1888:
1885:
1883:
1880:
1878:
1877:Needlerun net
1875:
1873:
1870:
1868:
1865:
1863:
1862:Carbon fibers
1860:
1858:
1855:
1854:
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1846:
1840:
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1401:
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1209:
1206:
1204:
1201:
1199:
1196:
1194:
1191:
1189:
1186:
1184:
1183:Donegal tweed
1181:
1179:
1176:
1174:
1171:
1169:
1166:
1164:
1161:
1159:
1156:
1154:
1151:
1149:
1146:
1144:
1141:
1139:
1138:Cloth of gold
1136:
1134:
1131:
1129:
1126:
1124:
1121:
1119:
1116:
1114:
1111:
1109:
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1024:
1021:
1019:
1016:
1014:
1011:
1009:
1006:
1004:
1001:
999:
996:
994:
991:
989:
988:Almerían silk
986:
984:
981:
979:
976:
973:
970:
969:
967:
965:
961:
958:
954:
950:
943:
938:
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931:
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924:
923:
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912:
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899:
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867:
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847:
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840:
836:
832:
828:
824:
820:
816:
815:
809:
805:
799:
795:
790:
786:
784:9788874396702
780:
776:
771:
770:
766:
760:
756:
752:
748:
744:
739:
735:
733:0-684-31394-4
729:
725:
721:
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709:
704:
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694:
690:
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678:
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658:
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651:
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638:
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624:
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602:
598:
594:
586:
584:
582:
580:
578:
576:
574:
570:
565:
563:0-684-31394-4
559:
555:
551:
546:
545:
539:
531:
529:
527:
525:
523:
521:
519:
517:
515:
511:
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502:
498:
494:
490:
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476:
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440:
436:
423:
419:
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411:
405:
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372:
370:
368:
365:
360:
358:
357:
347:
346:
340:
333:
331:
329:
325:
317:
315:
311:
309:
305:
297:
295:
292:
291:Moussa Traoré
286:
284:
283:
278:
274:
273:
268:
264:
260:
252:
241:
236:
227:
222:
213:
208:
204:Bogolan, Mali
199:
194:
192:
190:
185:
183:
179:
175:
174:
169:
164:
157:
155:
153:
146:
141:
134:
132:
130:
126:
122:
118:
114:
110:
106:
102:
98:
90:
88:
86:
82:
78:
74:
70:
66:
62:
58:
54:
50:
46:
42:
34:
30:
19:
2501:Preservation
2408:Fabric mills
2385:Waxed cotton
2253:
1990:Bizarre silk
1748:Polar fleece
1483:Saga Nishiki
1478:Russell cord
1283:Harris tweed
1028:Brilliantine
1008:Bedford cord
974:(Medriñaque)
911:Venetian Red
910:
898:the original
849:
845:African Arts
843:
818:
814:African Arts
812:
793:
774:
750:
746:
720:Thomson Gale
713:
688:
660:
654:
647:Bibliography
626:
617:
600:
596:
550:Thomson Gale
543:
488:
482:
455:
433:
428:18 September
426:. Retrieved
422:the original
413:
389:
378:
376:
367:Chris Seydou
361:
354:
351:
343:
323:
321:
312:
301:
287:
280:
276:
270:
266:
256:
189:russet color
186:
181:
171:
167:
165:
161:
149:
120:
116:
112:
108:
104:
94:
64:
60:
56:
44:
40:
39:
29:
2511:Terminology
2496:Performance
2344:Rōketsuzome
2289:Heatsetting
2264:Calendering
2254:Bògòlanfini
2201:Spider silk
2015:Houndstooth
2010:Herringbone
1969:Windstopper
1814:Boiled wool
1333:Kente cloth
1323:Khaki drill
1303:Irish linen
1288:Herringbone
1153:Cotton duck
1113:Cheesecloth
972:Abacá cloth
722:. pp.
552:. pp.
362:The Malian
105:bògòlanfini
103:, the word
53:bɔgɔlanfini
41:Bògòlanfini
2592:Categories
2445:Loro Piana
2440:Larusmiani
2373:Tsutsugaki
2361:Tenterhook
2269:Decatising
2146:Microfiber
2050:Tattersall
2030:Pinstripes
2005:Glen plaid
1929:E-textiles
1796:Cedar bark
1753:Terrycloth
1700:Pile woven
1588:Ultrasuede
1518:Seersucker
1443:Perpetuana
1368:Madapollam
1313:Kerseymere
1098:Char cloth
1053:Byrd Cloth
1033:Broadcloth
1018:Beta cloth
394:References
334:In fashion
304:camouflage
178:color-fast
135:Production
2557:Shrinkage
2506:Recycling
2430:E. Thomas
2279:Finishing
2217:Finishing
2161:Polyester
2111:Eisengarn
2035:Polka dot
1901:Technical
1829:Milliskin
1768:Velveteen
1723:Crimplene
1538:Shot silk
1463:Rayadillo
1458:Rakematiz
1358:Longcloth
1278:Haircloth
1268:Grosgrain
1258:Grenadine
1248:Ghalamkar
1243:Georgette
1228:Gabardine
1103:Charmeuse
1023:Bombazine
1013:Bengaline
998:Barkcloth
759:0378-5254
753:: 52–57.
708:"Bogolan"
609:0378-5254
603:: 52–57.
538:"Bogolan"
324:mud cloth
182:n'gallama
168:n'gallama
125:slip clay
57:mud cloth
2547:Knitting
2450:Piacenza
2425:Dormeuil
2310:Katazome
2294:Indienne
2240:Beetling
2230:Androsia
2221:printing
2181:Sea silk
2156:Pashmina
2096:Cashmere
2040:Shweshwe
1978:Patterns
1964:SympaTex
1959:Stub-tex
1949:Silnylon
1939:Gore-Tex
1857:Bobbinet
1783:Nonwoven
1773:Zibeline
1738:Moquette
1718:Corduroy
1713:Chenille
1652:Figured
1633:Whipcord
1433:Paduasoy
1418:Osnaburg
1388:Nainsook
1378:Moleskin
1363:Mackinaw
1208:Eolienne
1168:Cretonne
1148:Corduroy
1083:Capilene
1078:Chambray
1058:C change
993:Barathea
983:Armazine
687:(2008).
625:(2008).
85:fine art
2572:Weaving
2520:Related
2420:Cerruti
2284:Fulling
2259:Burnout
2247:Bingata
2196:Spandex
2076:Acrylic
2025:Paisley
1954:Spandex
1924:Darlexx
1914:Ban-Lon
1819:Coolmax
1806:Knitted
1733:Mockado
1728:Fustian
1681:Songket
1661:Brocade
1643:Zorbeez
1608:Viyella
1598:Ventile
1563:Ticking
1548:Taffeta
1508:Scarlet
1473:Ripstop
1438:Percale
1423:Ottoman
1413:Organza
1408:Organdy
1403:Oilskin
1393:Nankeen
1308:Jamdani
1273:Habutai
1253:Gingham
1223:Fustian
1218:Foulard
1213:Flannel
1203:Drugget
1143:Cordura
1118:Chiffon
1108:Charvet
1093:Challis
1068:Cambric
1043:Bunting
1038:Buckram
1003:Batiste
866:3337471
835:3345905
677:2800615
505:2800615
456:NPR.org
435:artist.
356:boubous
345:dashiki
257:Around
121:bògòlan
69:English
49:Bambara
45:bogolan
18:Bogolan
2527:Dyeing
2486:Design
2460:Scabal
2301:Kasuri
2274:Devoré
2151:Olefin
2136:Mohair
2126:Kevlar
2106:Cotton
2086:Angora
2081:Alpaca
2020:Kelsch
1985:Argyle
1934:Gannex
1849:Netted
1839:Velour
1834:Jersey
1763:Velvet
1676:Lampas
1671:Damask
1666:Camlet
1638:Zephyr
1623:Waffle
1618:Wadmal
1573:Tucuyo
1558:Tartan
1523:Sendal
1493:Sateen
1488:Samite
1453:Poplin
1448:Pongee
1428:Oxford
1383:Muslin
1373:Madras
1298:Hodden
1293:Himroo
1193:Dowlas
1188:Dornix
1178:Dimity
1158:Coutil
1133:Cloqué
1128:Chintz
1073:Canvas
1063:Calico
1048:Burlap
978:Aertex
949:Fabric
864:
833:
800:
781:
757:
730:
726:–170.
695:
675:
633:
607:
560:
556:–170.
503:
373:In art
277:M'Peku
263:Djenné
170:tree (
97:Bamana
73:Malian
2552:Pandy
2532:Fiber
2470:Zegna
2397:Yūzen
2322:Moire
2235:Batik
2191:Sisal
2176:Rayon
2171:Ramie
2141:Nylon
2131:Linen
2091:Bashō
2070:Abacá
2000:Chiné
1995:Check
1887:Tulle
1882:Ninon
1743:Plush
1708:Baize
1688:Rinzu
1654:woven
1628:Wigan
1613:Voile
1583:Twill
1578:Tweed
1568:Toile
1543:Stuff
1533:Scrim
1528:Serge
1498:Satin
1398:Ninon
1353:Loden
1318:Khādī
1238:Gazar
1233:Gauze
1198:Drill
1173:Denim
1163:Crêpe
1123:Chino
964:Woven
956:Types
862:JSTOR
831:JSTOR
673:JSTOR
501:JSTOR
259:Mopti
246:Ségou
232:Ségou
218:Ségou
145:Enndé
129:black
2577:Yarn
2455:Reda
2206:Wool
2186:Silk
2166:Piña
2121:Jute
2116:Hemp
2101:Coir
1872:Mesh
1867:Lace
1791:Felt
1553:Tais
1503:Saye
1343:Lawn
1338:Lamé
798:ISBN
779:ISBN
755:ISSN
728:ISBN
693:ISBN
631:ISBN
605:ISSN
558:ISBN
430:2018
318:Uses
267:wolo
261:and
117:fini
109:bɔgɔ
2327:Nap
2219:and
1468:Rep
854:doi
823:doi
724:169
665:doi
656:Man
554:169
493:doi
484:Man
359:).
285:).
152:San
113:lan
67:in
63:or
55:; "
43:or
2594::
909:.
883:.
860:.
850:30
848:.
829:.
817:.
777:.
751:31
749:.
745:.
671:.
659:.
601:31
599:.
595:.
572:^
513:^
499:.
487:.
468:^
454:.
442:^
432:.
412:.
401:^
387:.
191:.
154:.
131:.
51::
941:e
934:t
927:v
913:.
887:.
868:.
856::
837:.
825::
819:3
806:.
787:.
761:.
736:.
701:.
679:.
667::
661:8
639:.
611:.
566:.
507:.
495::
489:8
462:.
348:)
279:(
47:(
20:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
