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textile printing workshop in 1981, Georgina von
Etzdorf's primary focus was on creating painterly effects on fabric. Credited with popularising the velvet scarf, she introduced devoré to the range in 1993 – having experimented with printed velvets from 1985.
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is applied to the fabric in patterns, dissolving away the cellulose-based fibres and leaving behind the protein-based fibres, which are not affected by the chemical. The chemical gel may be applied either by printing or by hand painting on the fabric.
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Conran's most elaborate devoré fashion pieces – which were oven baked as part of the process – were time-consuming to produce and expensive to buy; in 1993, a panelled evening skirt retailed at £572 and an acid-treated shirt cost £625.
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Burnout fabrics are thought to have originated in France, possibly as a cheap alternative to lace that could be created using caustic paste on fabric. The commercial chemical process used in fashion garments was developed in
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Conran is credited with popularising devoré, introducing it in 1989 and taking the technique forward in the 1990s in his main fashion line. He refined his techniques on theatrical costumes; in the 1992 production of
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to create a semi-transparent pattern against more solidly woven fabric. The same technique can also be applied to textiles other than velvet, such as lace or the fabrics in burnout
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The technique was popularised in the 1920s – typically used on evening gowns and shawls – and revived in the 1980s and '90s, notably by
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Georgina von Etzdorf devore satin dress in the Manchester Galleries collection
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174:. In order to create the 'burnout' pattern, a chemical gel containing
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and street vendors. Conran's devoré technique also featured in
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Devoré – or burnout technique – applied to green velvet fabric
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material undergoes a chemical process to dissolve the
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on theatrical costumes and then evening wear and by
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346:. London: Anova Books (Batsford). p. 13.
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34:) is a fabric technique particularly used on
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554:Examples and methods at The Cutting Class
484:. Birmingham Royal Ballet. Archived from
433:"In thing: Georgina von Etzdorf scarves"
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124:costumes. In 1994, it featured in the
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162:with cellulose-based fibres such as
507:Jackson, Lesley (8 February 2007).
53:Devoré comes from the French verb
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376:Hume, Marian (11 February 1993).
254:Textile manufacturing terminology
239:Glossary of textile manufacturing
510:Twentieth Century Pattern Design
282:University of Pennsylvania Press
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549:Devoré tutorial on Textile Arts
431:Roffey, Monique (8 July 1994).
405:Brennan, Mary (10 March 1994).
57:, meaning literally to devour.
319:. Textile Arts. Archived from
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276:Singer, Margo (2007).
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342:Fogg, Marnie (2009).
314:"Exploring Devoré..."
249:Textile manufacturing
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2088:Holland & Sherry
79:Georgina von Etzdorf
2190:History of textiles
517:. pp. 209–11.
407:"All hands to tutu"
344:1980s Fashion Print
131:The Sleeping Beauty
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564:2016-02-07 at the
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791:Cloth of gold
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641:Almerían silk
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291:9780812220001
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224:Chemical lace
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119:
115:
111:
107:
106:David Bintley
103:
99:
95:
94:
85:1990s revival
84:
82:
80:
76:
75:Jasper Conran
71:
69:
60:
58:
56:
51:
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45:
41:
37:
33:
30:(also called
29:
21:
2154:Preservation
2061:Fabric mills
2038:Waxed cotton
1926:
1911:
1643:Bizarre silk
1401:Polar fleece
1136:Saga Nishiki
1131:Russell cord
936:Harris tweed
681:Brilliantine
661:Bedford cord
627:(Medriñaque)
528:. Retrieved
509:
502:
490:. Retrieved
486:the original
475:
463:. Retrieved
458:
449:
437:. Retrieved
426:
414:. Retrieved
385:. Retrieved
343:
337:
325:. Retrieved
321:the original
316:
277:
157:
144:
140:
138:techniques.
129:
113:
110:Royal Ballet
98:Simon Callow
96:directed by
93:My Fair Lady
91:
88:
81:on scarves.
72:
64:
54:
52:
31:
27:
26:
2164:Terminology
2149:Performance
1997:Rōketsuzome
1942:Heatsetting
1917:Calendering
1907:Bògòlanfini
1854:Spider silk
1668:Houndstooth
1663:Herringbone
1622:Windstopper
1467:Boiled wool
986:Kente cloth
976:Khaki drill
956:Irish linen
941:Herringbone
806:Cotton duck
766:Cheesecloth
625:Abacá cloth
40:mixed-fibre
2245:Categories
2098:Loro Piana
2093:Larusmiani
2026:Tsutsugaki
2014:Tenterhook
1922:Decatising
1799:Microfiber
1703:Tattersall
1683:Pinstripes
1658:Glen plaid
1582:E-textiles
1449:Cedar bark
1406:Terrycloth
1353:Pile woven
1241:Ultrasuede
1171:Seersucker
1096:Perpetuana
1021:Madapollam
966:Kerseymere
751:Char cloth
706:Byrd Cloth
686:Broadcloth
671:Beta cloth
260:References
38:, where a
2256:Materials
2251:Cellulose
2210:Shrinkage
2159:Recycling
2083:E. Thomas
1932:Finishing
1870:Finishing
1814:Polyester
1764:Eisengarn
1688:Polka dot
1554:Technical
1482:Milliskin
1421:Velveteen
1376:Crimplene
1191:Shot silk
1116:Rayadillo
1111:Rakematiz
1011:Longcloth
931:Haircloth
921:Grosgrain
911:Grenadine
901:Ghalamkar
896:Georgette
881:Gabardine
756:Charmeuse
676:Bombazine
666:Bengaline
651:Barkcloth
147:Wiltshire
2261:Textiles
2200:Knitting
2103:Piacenza
2078:Dormeuil
1963:Katazome
1947:Indienne
1893:Beetling
1883:Androsia
1874:printing
1834:Sea silk
1809:Pashmina
1749:Cashmere
1693:Shweshwe
1631:Patterns
1617:SympaTex
1612:Stub-tex
1602:Silnylon
1592:Gore-Tex
1510:Bobbinet
1436:Nonwoven
1426:Zibeline
1391:Moquette
1371:Corduroy
1366:Chenille
1305:Figured
1286:Whipcord
1086:Paduasoy
1071:Osnaburg
1041:Nainsook
1031:Moleskin
1016:Mackinaw
861:Eolienne
821:Cretonne
801:Corduroy
736:Capilene
731:Chambray
711:C change
646:Barathea
636:Armazine
562:Archived
183:See also
136:appliqué
120:and the
114:Tombeaux
108:'s 1993
48:t-shirts
2225:Weaving
2173:Related
2073:Cerruti
1937:Fulling
1912:Burnout
1900:Bingata
1849:Spandex
1729:Acrylic
1678:Paisley
1607:Spandex
1577:Darlexx
1567:Ban-Lon
1472:Coolmax
1459:Knitted
1386:Mockado
1381:Fustian
1334:Songket
1314:Brocade
1296:Zorbeez
1261:Viyella
1251:Ventile
1216:Ticking
1201:Taffeta
1161:Scarlet
1126:Ripstop
1091:Percale
1076:Ottoman
1066:Organza
1061:Organdy
1056:Oilskin
1046:Nankeen
961:Jamdani
926:Habutai
906:Gingham
876:Fustian
871:Foulard
866:Flannel
856:Drugget
796:Cordura
771:Chiffon
761:Charvet
746:Challis
721:Cambric
696:Bunting
691:Buckram
656:Batiste
164:viscose
61:History
55:dévorer
36:velvets
32:burnout
2180:Dyeing
2139:Design
2113:Scabal
1954:Kasuri
1927:Devoré
1804:Olefin
1789:Mohair
1779:Kevlar
1759:Cotton
1739:Angora
1734:Alpaca
1673:Kelsch
1638:Argyle
1587:Gannex
1502:Netted
1492:Velour
1487:Jersey
1416:Velvet
1329:Lampas
1324:Damask
1319:Camlet
1291:Zephyr
1276:Waffle
1271:Wadmal
1226:Tucuyo
1211:Tartan
1176:Sendal
1146:Sateen
1141:Samite
1106:Poplin
1101:Pongee
1081:Oxford
1036:Muslin
1026:Madras
951:Hodden
946:Himroo
846:Dowlas
841:Dornix
831:Dimity
811:Coutil
786:Cloqué
781:Chintz
726:Canvas
716:Calico
701:Burlap
631:Aertex
602:Fabric
530:8 July
521:
492:8 July
465:8 July
439:7 July
416:7 July
387:8 July
350:
327:7 July
288:
229:Fabric
168:cotton
154:Method
28:Devoré
2205:Pandy
2185:Fiber
2123:Zegna
2050:Yūzen
1975:Moire
1888:Batik
1844:Sisal
1829:Rayon
1824:Ramie
1794:Nylon
1784:Linen
1744:Bashō
1723:Abacá
1653:Chiné
1648:Check
1540:Tulle
1535:Ninon
1396:Plush
1361:Baize
1341:Rinzu
1307:woven
1281:Wigan
1266:Voile
1236:Twill
1231:Tweed
1221:Toile
1196:Stuff
1186:Scrim
1181:Serge
1151:Satin
1051:Ninon
1006:Loden
971:Khādī
891:Gazar
886:Gauze
851:Drill
826:Denim
816:Crêpe
776:Chino
617:Woven
609:Types
234:Fiber
172:rayon
170:, or
2230:Yarn
2108:Reda
1859:Wool
1839:Silk
1819:Piña
1774:Jute
1769:Hemp
1754:Coir
1525:Mesh
1520:Lace
1444:Felt
1206:Tais
1156:Saye
996:Lawn
991:Lamé
532:2014
519:ISBN
494:2014
467:2014
441:2014
418:2014
389:2014
348:ISBN
329:2014
286:ISBN
160:silk
68:Lyon
1980:Nap
1872:and
1121:Rep
2247::
513:.
457:.
409:.
397:^
380:.
362:^
300:^
280:.
268:^
166:,
50:.
594:e
587:t
580:v
534:.
496:.
469:.
443:.
420:.
391:.
356:.
331:.
294:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
