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Edouard Wyss-Dunant, was appointed leader of this expedition. All the expedition's participants were from Geneva, they almost all belonged to the exclusive «L'Androsace» climbing club and knew each other very well. The city and Canton of Geneva provided moral and financial support for the expedition,
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The results of this first Swiss
Everest expedition are remarkable, and exceeded even the most optimistic expectations. At the first attempt, they had opened up a new route to Everest, and had reached an extraordinary height on the south-western ridge in difficult conditions. In the opinion of the
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were able to reach a height of about 8,595 metres (28,199 ft) on the southeast ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record. Tenzing's experience was useful when he was hired to be part of the
British expedition in 1953 during which he summited with
211:(1947 and 1952). The accounts of these exploits are recorded in his books: "Appels des Sommets", "Au dela des Cîmes", "Sur les Hauts Plateaux Mexicains", "Mes Ascensions en Afrique", "Mirages Groenlandais" and "Forets et Cîmes Himalayennes".
141:(Bern Academical Alpine Club). Later, he moved into a practice in Geneva, where he met his future wife, Lucrece, and there, with the exception of a period spent in North Africa, he made his home for the rest of his life.
101:, both in his own country and abroad. He published a number of treatises in his professional capacity and was the author of several mountaineering books. He is best known for his leadership of the
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K2: the 1939 tragedy Andrew J. Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam - 1992 "Edward Wyss-Dunant (1897-1983), a radiologist and physiologist, was a resident of Geneva who climbed mostly in the
Oberland."
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The climax of his career as an alpinist was his selection by the Swiss
Foundation for Alpine Exploration as leader of the Geneva-based Swiss Expedition to Everest in the spring of 1952.
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extremely critical Marcel Kurz, this expedition could almost be compared to a victory. It paved the way for further successes by other expeditions.
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and the Dent d'HĂ©rens. He also achieved a solo traverse of the
Matterhorn and climbed it by its formidable Furggen-Grat with
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225:. In tribute to these services and to his lifelong record as a climber he was made an honorary member of the
293:" in an article about acclimatisation published in the journal of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
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from the
Tiefenmatten-Joch to the Col du Lion and made a double traverse, in two days, of both the
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The mountaineering task that this team had set itself was primarily exploring the access to the
344:"Excerpt from: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1939 to 1970. Published in Zurich in 1972"
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152:: among the classic routes in his record at that time were the Mittellegi Ridge of the
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125:, where his father managed a chemical works. He went on to study medicine in
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Wyss-Dunant also participated in several expeditions further afield: in
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and the
University of Geneva provided the scientific contingent.
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Among his research works, Edouard Wyss-Dunant coined the term "
93:(17 April 1897 – 30 April 1983) was a Swiss physician and
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148:, Wyss-Dunant climbed all the main summits of the
223:Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme
129:. After receiving a doctorate in radiology in
320:"In Memoriam, compiled by Geoffrey Templeman"
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217:Wyss-Dunant also served as president of the
164:. In his early twenties, he traversed the
160:and many good ascents in the chain of the
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133:he set himself up as a practitioner in
233:Spring 1952 expedition to the Everest
176:. He also climbed extensively in the
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251:, the conquest of the labyrinthine
239:1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition
137:in Bern and became a member of the
103:Swiss Expedition to Everest of 1952
97:. He had a distinguished career in
255:, and possibly the advance to the
121:mother. He spent his childhood in
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431:High-altitude medicine physicians
471:20th-century non-fiction writers
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394:Wyss-Dunant, Edouard (1953).
139:Berner Akademische Alpen-Klub
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456:Swiss non-fiction writers
156:, the North Ridge of the
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436:Swiss mountain climbers
441:Physicians from Geneva
207:) (1946) and in the
174:Alexander Taugwalder
370:"Tenzing Norgay GM"
350:on 18 November 2007
285:Scientific research
144:During his stay in
91:Edouard Wyss-Dunant
20:Edouard Wyss-Dunant
446:Swiss radiologists
403:The Mountain World
113:Wyss-Dunant had a
396:"Acclimatisation"
219:Swiss Alpine Club
162:Grosses Engelhorn
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71:Scientific career
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372:. Archived from
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346:. Archived from
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150:Bernese Oberland
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275:Edmund Hillary
270:Tenzing Norgay
253:Khumbu Icefall
237:Main article:
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57:(aged 86)
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166:Dent d'HĂ©rens
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117:father and a
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53:30 April 1983
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45:17 April 1897
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407:. Retrieved
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378:. Retrieved
374:the original
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352:. Retrieved
348:the original
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326:. Retrieved
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180:massif with
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115:Swiss-German
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55:(1983-04-30)
466:1983 deaths
461:1897 births
227:Alpine Club
193:East Africa
182:Marcel Kurz
62:Citizenship
425:Categories
380:2007-06-21
297:References
291:Death Zone
178:Mont Blanc
170:Matterhorn
41:1897-04-17
409:March 10,
405:: 110–117
354:9 January
328:9 January
257:South Col
249:South Col
229:in 1963.
197:Greenland
135:radiology
109:Biography
221:and the
209:Himalaya
199:(1938),
195:(1937),
191:(1936),
119:Vaudoise
99:medicine
95:alpinist
80:Medicine
201:Tibesti
267:Sherpa
189:Mexico
131:Zurich
127:Geneva
123:Alsace
77:Fields
399:(PDF)
323:(PDF)
158:Mönch
154:Eiger
65:Swiss
411:2013
356:2011
330:2011
265:and
205:Chad
146:Bern
50:Died
35:Born
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203:(
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39:(
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