565:, East Sussex on 7 February 1992. He was 69. His wife Phyllis was injured but survived. Both his sons continued the family association with shoemaking. His obituaries not only singled out his business acumen but also his good humour. Colin McDowell said that almost uniquely for a personality in the centre of the fashion industry, no journalist ever had a bad word to say about him. He was also held in affection by the British couturiers he promoted.
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player, representing
England at the age of 21 and becoming the European Bridge Champion at the age of 26. An interview shortly before he took up his role as chairman of the BFC also noted his facility with other card games: "He is the Sky Masterson of Mayfair. As a colleague said: 'Nobody beats Eddie
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put it in 1988, he: "marshalled London's notoriously independent-minded designers into a united team, harnessed their creative energy to the financial support provided by the industry's largest clothing manufacturers and retail groups, and provided back up services to those designers who need them".
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Rayne was active in various national industry bodies, notably serving on the Export
Council of Europe between 1962 and 1971 and the Franco British Council between 1980 and 1988. He was active too within industry-specific bodies, serving as president of the British Footwear Manufacturers' Association
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Edward Rayne expanded the Rayne business in the early 1960s, beginning an association with
Genesco in the United States and also buying a 49 per cent stake in the British company of John Plant and its subsidiary Butlers. Rayne still designed shoes himself – his ebony brown patent leather design was
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for the new Delman shoe store that opened in Old Bond Street in 1960. This was a radical retailing concept for the time because, whereas upmarket shoe stores had been discreet enclaves dressed with curtains and pot plants, with shoes consigned to underground stores, this refit incorporated display
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noted that he would arrive at 7.45 am every morning to learn the 200 steps required to make a pair of high-end shoes. While his apprenticeship was intense, Rayne found time to master the game of bridge; he was known as Eddie as a bridge player, represented his country at the age of 21 and was
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In 1960, Rayne became chairman of IncSoc, the first chair not drawn from the world of couture garment design – significant since normally IncSoc was presided over by a fashion designer, not an accessories maker. His businesslike approach was to serve the society well, as noted in a 1985 article:
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shoes in his flagship store, placing them alongside those of Roger Vivier. He also gained a foothold in the mass market, ensuring the company had an interest in both H.E. Randall and Lotus chainstores. By 1966, he was managing what were known as 'Young Design quartet' – Jean Muir, Roger Nelson,
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was a major boost – funding IncSoc for a decade – but Rayne also brought in the foreign orders, chartering a plane from Paris to capture the US buyers who had hitherto bypassed London. He would later say that
British designers didn't capitalise on all the opportunities brought about by the
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and met his
British father Joseph Rayne in Italy, where she was training to be an opera singer. Joseph Rayne was heir to the shoe side of the family business, which was founded in 1889 as a theatrical costumier by Henry and Mary Rayne and located close to
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were made at Rayne's UK factory and personally supervised by Edward Rayne. Four years later, Vivier began selling Rayne brand shoes in his Rue François store in Paris, and the straight set back heel Rayne had introduced a year earlier was, he told
404:, "fashion right" and included across the Rayne and Miss Rayne lines. While high-end and haute couture were part of the company's pedigree, Edward Rayne always had an eye on the more mainstream direction of fashion – he was the first to display
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who were paying up to £40 for a pair of Rayne shoes. Edward Rayne was able to capitalise on that existing foothold – and his
Stateside roots – and a decade after he took over the firm he established a joint venture with US shoe firm
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chairman and managing director of H. & M. Rayne Ltd (1951–87); board of governors
Genesco Inc., (167–73); director Debenhams Ltd (1975–1988); president Debenhams Inc., (1976–86); executive chairman Harvey Nichols
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reporting that it was thought to be the first time a French couture house had used branded
British shoes. In autumn of that year, Rayne opened its own store in Paris – said to be the first shoemaker to do so since
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as a consultant for its growing shoe range. He also continued to act as a consultant to Harvey
Nichols. He was knighted in 1988 for services to the fashion industry – France had awarded him its equivalent (a
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noted that: "Mr Messel and Mr Rayne are at one in thinking that shoes to buy should be as easy to see and handle as books in a library". He continued the Rayne brand's reputation for luxury;
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by the Queen. By 1980, Rayne shoes were exported to 16 countries and Edward Rayne was chair of the multiple fashion division of
Debenhams, which included worldwide Rayne-Delman shoe shops.
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report about the autumn fashion show of IncSoc members. Rayne was, by then both chair and associate member of the group of elite London couturiers. He was appointed a member of the
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publicity: "As a country, we blew the sixties, threw them away! The designers had the British disease, they couldn't understand the delicate balance between commerce and design".
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in both eyes. His sight was saved following surgery. The thick pebble glasses he needed for the rest of his life also became his trademark – an obituary writer compared him to
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In 1975, Rayne was sold to the department-store chain Debenhams, at which point Edward Rayne joined the boards of Debenhams and Harvey Nichols. Two years later, he was made a
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345:. The Rayne link with Delman went back to the 1930s; Rayne's 1954 review to shareholders noted that the company's three shops, Rayne and Delman in Bond Street and Rayne in
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in 1985, and two years later Rayne was acquired by the businessman David Graham. Edward Rayne then resigned and focused on his other roles. He was recruited by
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obituary said: "If any single man persuaded American fashion buyers and correspondents to take London Fashion Week seriously, it was Rayne".
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510:"Rayne's great success with the Incorporated Society was in raising money. Courtauld's were major patrons and donated £10,000 per year".
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He had inherited a company that was very much part of the British society dress code. It had acquired the first of its Royal Warrants to
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in 1920, Joseph cashed in on the trend for shoes as a fashion (rather than simply practical) item and by 1928 the company had become a
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The contribution of H. & M. Rayne – especially under Edward Rayne's leadership – was showcased in an exhibitions held at the
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Edward Rayne continued to work with haute couture brands in both the UK and overseas. By 1970, Rayne shoes were included in the
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The company was active as an exporter – its shoes were sold to 12 countries – and had high-profile clients such as
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201:(director and chairman respectively) and was a high-profile ambassador for British fashion; he was chair of the
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used to send Christmas cards bearing the inscription: 'to the cobbler from the Little Woman Round The Corner'.
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155:(often simply known as Rayne), one of the foremost British manufacturers of high-end and couture shoes. With a
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McDowell, Colin (10 October 1985). "Nicely-Nicely Rambo: London Fashion Week Starts Today Amid Confusion".
544:, who became a high-profile clothes-horse for British designs, handed out awards and hosted a reception at
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to celebrate fashion's high flyers. Rayne was a natural fit for chair of the British Fashion Council. As
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stands and cases, some of them illuminated, to show off hundreds of pairs of shoes. An article by
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Joseph Rayne died in 1952 and, at the age of 29, Edward Rayne became chairman of the family firm.
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remained the company's best-selling line for 50 years, worn by society and theatricals alike.
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This article is about the 20th-century shoemaker. For the 19th-century British clergyman, see
209:(BFC), as well as working for numerous other trade and industry bodies. He did much to place
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in 1971 and was made Master of the Worshipful Company of Pattern Makers in 1981, one of the
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After IncSoc petered out, Rayne formed part of the self-appointed collective – along with
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Aldburgham, Alison (21 July 1970). "Story by Alison Adburgham drawings by May Routh".
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Edward Rayne was born in the United States – his mother Meta (née Reddish) came from
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McDowell, Colin (10 February 1992). "Appreciation: Edward Rayne – Shoes and Shine".
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because of this, and began a long apprenticeship at H. & M. Rayne's factory in
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part of the winning team that won both the 1948 and 1949 European championships.
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Driver, Christopher (8 February 1992). "Obituary: If the shoe fits, sell it".
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442:. Rayne was also designing shoes for other French designers, including
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960:"Dresses for the Abbey: Dignified Simplicity of the Queen's Dress".
1140:"Sir Edward Rayne (1922–1992), Footwear designer and manufacturer"
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in 2015. Rayne shoes are held in several archives, including the
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In addition to his national honours, he was made a fellow of the
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but left at the age of 16 because his eyesight was threatened by
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1970s Rayne sandals in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection
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Settle, Alison (1 May 1960). "Reading the Name in the Shoes".
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described him as the best British shoemaker of his age.
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Under his stewardship H. & M. Rayne took a stake in
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Tinling, Teddy (21 February 1964). "View of Fashion".
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1960s Rayne evening shoes in the V&A collection
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561:Edward Rayne was killed in a fire at his home in
275:novel. Physical comparisons were also drawn with
271:described him as looking like a character from a
203:Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers
990:MacCarthy, Fiona (2 March 1966). "Shoe Group".
867:"H. & M. Rayne: Mr Edward Rayne's Review".
532:, former war correspondent and diplomat's wife
317:with a bow originally designed for the actress
151:(19 August 1922 – 7 February 1992) was head of
182:and encouraged British designers to embark on
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279:. He was excused from active service in the
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486:and the British Boot and Shoe Institution.
837:R., J. (20 June 1988). "Rayne and Shine".
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852:"New Capital for Boot and Shoe Company".
1254:American emigrants to the United Kingdom
1022:"He's A Shoo-In for Cobbler of the Year"
897:"Autumn Designs for London Couturiers".
341:, giving Rayne a presence in New York's
1249:Commanders of the Royal Victorian Order
1229:Knights of the Ordre national du Mérite
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309:and its early customers also included
1064:. patternmakers.co.uk. Archived from
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127:Chevalier l'Ordre Nationale du Mérité
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916:. No. 55506. 26 September 1962.
1204:20th-century British businesspeople
808:. No. 64251. 10 February 1992.
623:"Rayne, Sir Edward". ukwhoswho.com.
1214:English people of American descent
1106:. No. 64250. 8 February 1992.
945:"Gossamer Silk in Wedding Dress".
584:in London. A portrait of Rayne by
505:IncSoc and British Fashion Council
222:As Eddie Rayne, he was a talented
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1091:. No. 63207. 8 October 1988.
1087:"London fashion: who does what".
1020:Sobotka, Jon (14 February 1980).
886:. No. 55171. 28 August 1961.
871:. No. 52820. 4 January 1954.
421:and some high-street shoe shops.
1219:People educated at Harrow School
1102:"Ex-stores chief dies in fire".
804:"Obituaries: Sir Edward Rayne".
1234:English contract bridge players
1050:. No. 63107. 14 June 1988.
912:"Exports to Europe Increased".
901:. No. 54832. 25 July 1960.
856:. No. 47314. 4 March 1936.
661:. ftmlondon.org. Archived from
659:"An Afternoon with Rayne Shoes"
391:By 1960, the shoes designed by
205:(IncSoc) and its successor the
213:on the international map; his
193:Rayne served on the boards of
1:
964:. No. 54764. 6 May 1960.
949:. No. 54765. 7 May 1960.
349:had produced record profits.
255:Edward Rayne was educated at
25:Shoe designer and businessman
1239:Accidental deaths in England
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582:Victoria and Albert Museum
574:Fashion and Textile Museum
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1199:British fashion designers
590:National Portrait Gallery
364:Export Council for Europe
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1118:"RAYNE shoes for stars"
691:. Shoe Icons Publishing
207:British Fashion Council
477:) four years earlier.
464:Debenhams was sold to
1046:"Honours all round".
1026:Palm Beach Daily News
491:Royal Society of Arts
298:Promotion to chairman
244:. Opening a store in
231:Early life and career
44:Edward Rayne in 1975.
1068:on 24 September 2015
580:in New York and the
578:Metropolitan Museum
470:Marks & Spencer
211:London Fashion Week
736:"Sir Edward Rayne"
689:eng.shoe-icons.com
588:forms part of the
433:collection – with
353:1960s developments
287:. His obituary in
1062:"List of Masters"
636:Missing or empty
546:Kensington Palace
386:Princess Margaret
319:Gertrude Lawrence
313:. A pair of flat
153:H. & M. Rayne
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114:Notable credit(s)
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665:on 12 June 2015
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18:Edward Raynes
1144:. Retrieved
1142:. npg.org.uk
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1122:. Retrieved
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1070:. Retrieved
1066:the original
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824:The Guardian
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762:The Guardian
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740:. Retrieved
719:The Guardian
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667:. Retrieved
663:the original
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466:Burton Group
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435:The Guardian
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402:The Guardian
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393:Roger Vivier
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381:The Observer
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343:Fifth Avenue
326:Vivien Leigh
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285:King's Cross
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227:at poker'."
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165:Queen Mother
159:to both the
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78:(1992-02-07)
54:Edward Rayne
22:
1194:1992 deaths
1189:1922 births
738:. ebu.co.uk
481:Other roles
411:Moya Bowler
330:Ava Gardner
246:Bond Street
242:The Old Vic
184:franchising
1183:Categories
638:|url=
596:References
512:Courtaulds
444:Nina Ricci
406:Mary Quant
307:Queen Mary
131:knighthood
60:1922-08-19
1104:The Times
1089:The Times
1048:The Times
962:The Times
947:The Times
914:The Times
899:The Times
884:The Times
869:The Times
854:The Times
806:The Times
592:archive.
550:The Times
475:chevalier
452:Bill Gibb
366:in 1961.
290:The Times
261:cataracts
195:Debenhams
188:Jean Muir
108:(1978–88)
629:cite web
431:Molyneux
267:, while
265:Mr Magoo
216:Guardian
129:(1984);
125:(1977);
121:(1971),
563:Bexhill
528:editor
497:of the
419:Harrods
273:Surtees
172:Genesco
1146:9 June
1124:8 June
1072:8 June
1031:9 June
742:1 June
695:8 June
669:1 June
448:Lanvin
339:Delman
224:bridge
133:(1988)
97:bridge
525:Vogue
360:Times
315:pumps
161:Queen
146:
1148:2015
1126:2015
1074:2015
1033:2015
744:2015
697:2015
671:2015
642:help
446:and
440:Lobb
413:and
397:Dior
395:for
332:and
197:and
178:and
163:and
148:FRSA
119:FRSA
73:Died
50:Born
459:CVO
378:in
281:war
250:PLC
144:CVO
123:CVO
1185::
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814:^
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633::
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627:{{
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67:US
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