Knowledge (XXG)

Fontainebleau rock climbing

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level. Generally, all holds within reasonable reach are allowed; occasionally, a forbidden hold may be indicated by a dashed line. A lone dot indicates a suggested foothold. A dot within a broken circle indicates a jump. A dot with a triangle indicates the general direction of the next boulder.
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in French), ranging from 1a to 9A, that measures the difficulty of a single boulder or move. The numerical grade of a route used to be the grade of the whole route's most difficult move, but no longer, due to the difficulty of linking several difficult moves obviously being a
492:, Extremely Difficult Higher), applies to a whole route. It measures the overall difficulty and danger of the route. (An easy route with a single hard move is graded lower than one where the hardest move is the same, but many moves are hard or unprotected.) 155:
areas. French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. It remains today a prime climbing location. It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world, and is where the
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Initially, there were no formalised routes; climbers would choose the most remarkable boulders, aiming for the highest and most committing ones, as a preparation for the mountains.
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The first guidebook appeared in 1945, written by Maurice Martin, providing a map of blocks and routes with their names and ratings. The first painted route was created in 1947 by
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boulders or routes are named after famous climbers of the beginning of the 20th century: Prestat, Wehrlin, Maunoury, Gaché, Labour, Paillon, Souverain, and the famous
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landscape is a "chaos" of rocks (no more than a few meters high) spread over a sandy plain. A climbing route threads its way from boulder to boulder.
2536: 923: 804:= purple). All the boulders used along a given route are marked the same colour. The difficulty of each individual move can be found in guidebooks. 203:
from his initials). Before World War II, most of the areas that are popular today were already well known to Parisian climbers, except for Les
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age, relatively young in geological terms. Their appearance may have been accentuated by localised mineralisation (
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column is a literal translation of the French adjective; do not assume any relation to any other grading system.)
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A small number of routes have retained their historical, non-standard colour, notably at Les
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This is now widely used also in other bouldering areas around the world. However, the
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The Fontainebleau climbing areas are located in a forested area south of
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At the time, people would climb in Fontainebleau primarily to train for
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in French) are numbered within the restricted area (say, within Les
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Escalade Ă  Bleau, Tome 2: ForĂȘt domaniale de Fontainebleau, COSIROC
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Although at a farther distance, the climbing areas of Beauvais (
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climbing areas are owned by the French state and managed by the
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grades are generally more severe; thus an 8A route outside of
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
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The boulders in Fontainebleau are erosive remnants from the
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established the first 8A in Fontainebleau when he climbed
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is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem in
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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Normal move (upward-pointing arrow) and alternative (
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Escalade Ă  Bleau, Tome 1: Les Trois Pignons, COSIROC
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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Thus, the 1936 French expedition to the 18: 626: 901: 527: 440:are similar and are considered part of 600:: last rock of a route (Pignon Poteau) 886:, major bouldering area in California 484:in French guidebooks), going from F ( 54: 7: 2492: 2504: 994:, comprehensive catalogue of routes 62:Location of Fontainebleau in France 987:Bouldering Routes in Fontainebleau 761:Black or White or fluorescent pink 573:General direction of the next rock 561:, right-pointing arrow marked "b") 377:and La Canche aux Merciers in les 14: 2401:South African Climbing Federation 545:area, Trois Pignons), and move #1 2503: 2491: 2480: 2479: 2467: 1373:IFSC World Championships winners 666:Violet, Salmon, Light Green, ... 590: 578: 566: 550: 530: 267:in 1952. The standardisation of 259:area, followed by routes at Les 53: 46: 27: 2537:Sports venues in Seine-et-Marne 490:ExtrĂȘmement Difficile SupĂ©rieur 2371:British Mountaineering Council 1: 1000:, routes and more information 831:), or with a small triangle ( 807:The first rock of the route ( 464:rock, forming large nodules. 370:Some of the major areas are: 158:Fontainebleau grading system 36:bouldering in Fontainebleau 2558: 295:Office National des ForĂȘts 269:route colour by difficulty 2463: 2361:Appalachian Mountain Club 468:Route grading and marking 395:in ForĂȘt de Fontainebleau 309:Climbing and spotting in 168:At the end of the 1800s, 41: 26: 16:Bouldering area in France 2532:Climbing areas of France 2276:Mountain Safety Research 2271:Mountain Equipment Co-op 890:History of rock climbing 274:In 1984, French climber 2406:South Tyrol Alpine Club 2201:Eastern Mountain Sports 2067:Canadian Alpine Journal 2060:American Alpine Journal 1323:Roof and tunnel hacking 411:ForĂȘt de la Commanderie 172:, the president of the 2226:Holubar Mountaineering 2038:Magazines and journals 1368:IFSC World Cup winners 796:= marine blue) and La 318: 2351:Alpine Club of Canada 2261:Marmot Mountain Works 2216:GERRY Mountain Sports 768:ExtrĂȘmement difficile 393:les Gorges d'Apremont 308: 2381:Club Alpino Italiano 2366:Austrian Alpine Club 2356:American Alpine Club 870:Some routes, called 418:Nainville-les-Roches 2376:Club Alpin Français 1750:Mountaineering boot 1363:Piolet d'Or winners 772:Extremely difficult 341:, near the town of 174:Club Alpin Français 100: /  2396:German Alpine Club 928:PlanetMountain.com 541:) of AD route #3 ( 319: 143:The region around 2519: 2518: 2459: 2458: 2411:Swiss Alpine Club 2164: 2163: 2119:Non-fiction films 2095:Planinski Vestnik 2088:Himalayan Journal 2026: 2025: 1788: 1787: 1417:Historical events 1388:Eight-thousanders 1341: 1340: 1195: 1194: 1010:Beauvais en blocs 872:parcours montagne 843:) and the second 794:La bleue outremer 790:Gorges d'Apremont 779: 778: 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Index


Dave Graham
Map showing the location of Fontainebleau
Paris
Coordinates
48°25â€ČN 2°37â€ČE / 48.41°N 2.62°E / 48.41; 2.62
Bouldering
Rock type
Sandstone
Fontainebleau
France
bouldering
Fontainebleau grading system
Aldolphe Joanne
Club Alpin Français
Franchard
Apremont
CAF
Pierre Allain
Trois Pignons
mountain climbing
Karakoram
Robert Paragot
Lucien BĂ©rardini
René Ferlet
Aconcagua
Fred Bernick
Cuvier Rempart
Gorges d'Apremont
Pierre Mercier

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