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811:) carries a white painted rectangle inscribed with the route number and its grading (e.g. AD+) in the appropriate colour (orange in this example). On each individual boulder, an arrow indicates the general direction of climb. Problem boulders are numbered in sequence (number 1 is typically the boulder after the
866:
level. Generally, all holds within reasonable reach are allowed; occasionally, a forbidden hold may be indicated by a dashed line. A lone dot indicates a suggested foothold. A dot within a broken circle indicates a jump. A dot with a triangle indicates the general direction of the next boulder.
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in French), ranging from 1a to 9A, that measures the difficulty of a single boulder or move. The numerical grade of a route used to be the grade of the whole route's most difficult move, but no longer, due to the difficulty of linking several difficult moves obviously being a
492:, Extremely Difficult Higher), applies to a whole route. It measures the overall difficulty and danger of the route. (An easy route with a single hard move is graded lower than one where the hardest move is the same, but many moves are hard or unprotected.)
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areas. French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. It remains today a prime climbing location. It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world, and is where the
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531:
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184:. In 1900, the Club Alpin Français organised a meet to ascend "the Gorges d'Apremont range" and then go to Larchant, whose huge rocks constitute the "usual practicing area of the Paris Section of
874:, intended to emulate a mountain route, are bi-directional and are indicated by a line rather than an arrow. Very few of these remain; there is one, for instance, at Franchard-CuisiniĂšre.
551:
248:
Initially, there were no formalised routes; climbers would choose the most remarkable boulders, aiming for the highest and most committing ones, as a preparation for the mountains.
251:
The first guidebook appeared in 1945, written by
Maurice Martin, providing a map of blocks and routes with their names and ratings. The first painted route was created in 1947 by
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591:
567:
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47:
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boulders or routes are named after famous climbers of the beginning of the 20th century: Prestat, Wehrlin, Maunoury, Gaché, Labour, Paillon, Souverain, and the famous
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landscape is a "chaos" of rocks (no more than a few meters high) spread over a sandy plain. A climbing route threads its way from boulder to boulder.
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804:= purple). All the boulders used along a given route are marked the same colour. The difficulty of each individual move can be found in guidebooks.
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from his initials). Before World War II, most of the areas that are popular today were already well known to
Parisian climbers, except for Les
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815:); easier, transition boulders are marked with an unnumbered arrow. Alternative problems are marked with an arrow and a
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age, relatively young in geological terms. Their appearance may have been accentuated by localised mineralisation (
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column is a literal translation of the French adjective; do not assume any relation to any other grading system.)
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949:"Site d'escalade Fontainebleau - Les Trois Pignons (La Canche aux Merciers) - info, topo, localisation..."
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271:(Yellow = PD, Orange = AD, Blue = D, Red = TD, Black = ED, White = ED+) dates back to the 1980s.
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A small number of routes have retained their historical, non-standard colour, notably at Les
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This is now widely used also in other bouldering areas around the world. However, the
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The
Fontainebleau climbing areas are located in a forested area south of
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At the time, people would climb in
Fontainebleau primarily to train for
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in French) are numbered within the restricted area (say, within Les
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Escalade Ă Bleau, Tome 2: ForĂȘt domaniale de
Fontainebleau, COSIROC
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Although at a farther distance, the climbing areas of
Beauvais (
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climbing areas are owned by the French state and managed by the
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924:"C'Ă©tait demain, the first 8A boulder problem in Fontainebleau"
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grades are generally more severe; thus an 8A route outside of
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207:, which was not easily accessible by public transport.
199:, the inventor of the smooth-sole climbing shoe (named
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is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem in
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Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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Normal move (upward-pointing arrow) and alternative (
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Escalade Ă Bleau, Tome 1: Les Trois Pignons, COSIROC
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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862:The body is positioned such that the arrow is at
176:, invited foreign visitors to visit the sites of
851:). The final boulder is marked with a circled
620:). Routes are colour-coded according to their
472:Two complementary grading systems are in use.
329:in France. They are located mostly within the
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8:
1006:featuring several boulder problems in motion
151:is particularly famous for its concentrated
241:made the first ascent of the South Face of
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440:are similar and are considered part of
600:: last rock of a route (Pignon Poteau)
886:, major bouldering area in California
484:in French guidebooks), going from F (
54:
7:
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994:, comprehensive catalogue of routes
62:Location of Fontainebleau in France
987:Bouldering Routes in Fontainebleau
761:Black or White or fluorescent pink
573:General direction of the next rock
561:, right-pointing arrow marked "b")
377:and La Canche aux Merciers in les
14:
2401:South African Climbing Federation
545:area, Trois Pignons), and move #1
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1373:IFSC World Championships winners
666:Violet, Salmon, Light Green, ...
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267:in 1952. The standardisation of
259:area, followed by routes at Les
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27:
2537:Sports venues in Seine-et-Marne
490:ExtrĂȘmement Difficile SupĂ©rieur
2371:British Mountaineering Council
1:
1000:, routes and more information
831:), or with a small triangle (
807:The first rock of the route (
464:rock, forming large nodules.
370:Some of the major areas are:
158:Fontainebleau grading system
36:bouldering in Fontainebleau
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295:Office National des ForĂȘts
269:route colour by difficulty
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2361:Appalachian Mountain Club
468:Route grading and marking
395:in ForĂȘt de Fontainebleau
309:Climbing and spotting in
168:At the end of the 1800s,
41:
26:
16:Bouldering area in France
2532:Climbing areas of France
2276:Mountain Safety Research
2271:Mountain Equipment Co-op
890:History of rock climbing
274:In 1984, French climber
2406:South Tyrol Alpine Club
2201:Eastern Mountain Sports
2067:Canadian Alpine Journal
2060:American Alpine Journal
1323:Roof and tunnel hacking
411:ForĂȘt de la Commanderie
172:, the president of the
2226:Holubar Mountaineering
2038:Magazines and journals
1368:IFSC World Cup winners
796:= marine blue) and La
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2351:Alpine Club of Canada
2261:Marmot Mountain Works
2216:GERRY Mountain Sports
768:ExtrĂȘmement difficile
393:les Gorges d'Apremont
308:
2381:Club Alpino Italiano
2366:Austrian Alpine Club
2356:American Alpine Club
870:Some routes, called
418:Nainville-les-Roches
2376:Club Alpin Français
1750:Mountaineering boot
1363:Piolet d'Or winners
772:Extremely difficult
341:, near the town of
174:Club Alpin Français
100: /
2396:German Alpine Club
928:PlanetMountain.com
541:) of AD route #3 (
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143:The region around
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2119:Non-fiction films
2095:Planinski Vestnik
2088:Himalayan Journal
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1417:Historical events
1388:Eight-thousanders
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1010:Beauvais en blocs
872:parcours montagne
843:) and the second
794:La bleue outremer
790:Gorges d'Apremont
779:
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618:Gorges d'Apremont
524:Route paint marks
478:adjectival system
315:les Trois Pignons
261:Gorges d'Apremont
218:included several
212:mountain climbing
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715:Fairly Difficult
696:Little Difficult
642:Typical Numeric
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622:adjectival grade
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497:numerical system
488:, easy) to ED+ (
339:de Fontainebleau
235:Lucien BĂ©rardini
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354:Milly-la-ForĂȘt
313:(95.2 area in
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284:Cuvier Rempart
280:C'Ă©tait demain
265:Pierre Mercier
257:Cuvier Rempart
231:Robert Paragot
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104:48.41°N 2.62°E
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2196:Early Winters
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2176:Black Diamond
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2173:
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2167:
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2149:
2145:
2143:
2142:
2141:The Dawn Wall
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2017:
2014:
2012:
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2001:Bachar ladder
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1951:Climbing wall
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1926:Approach shoe
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1547:
1546:Climbing rope
1544:
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1453:
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1428:
1427:First ascents
1425:
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1061:Rock climbing
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692:Peu difficile
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386:
382:
380:
379:Trois Pignons
376:
373:
372:
371:
368:
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361:
355:
351:
350:
349:Trois Pignons
344:
343:Fontainebleau
340:
336:
332:
328:
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316:
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307:
300:
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296:
292:
287:
285:
281:
277:
276:Jacky Godoffe
272:
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217:
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208:
206:
205:Trois Pignons
202:
198:
197:Pierre Allain
194:
189:
187:
183:
179:
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171:
163:
161:
159:
154:
150:
146:
145:Fontainebleau
137:
134:
132:
128:
125:
122:
120:Climbing type
118:
113:
85:
83:
79:
76:
73:
69:
49:
40:
35:
30:
25:
22:Fontainebleau
20:
2508:
2496:
2484:
2472:
2416:USA Climbing
2316:Wild Country
2311:Therm-a-Rest
2153:
2146:
2139:
2132:
2127:The Alpinist
2125:
2107:
2100:
2093:
2086:
2079:
2072:
2065:
2058:
2051:
2044:
2006:Campus board
1961:First ascent
1705:Ice and snow
1502:Belay device
1353:Alpine clubs
1313:Ropes course
1226:Alpine style
955:. Retrieved
951:
943:
931:. Retrieved
927:
918:
871:
869:
861:
856:
852:
848:
844:
840:
836:
832:
828:
824:
820:
816:
812:
808:
806:
801:
798:Dame Jouanne
793:
787:
782:
780:
767:
748:
729:
710:
691:
672:
653:
633:Abbreviation
613:
611:
606:
605:The typical
604:
597:
558:
542:
538:
537:First rock (
517:
513:
509:
507:
500:
489:
485:
482:"difficulté"
481:
471:
451:
441:
415:
369:
357:
346:
338:
330:
326:
320:
314:
310:
290:
289:Today, most
288:
279:
273:
253:Fred Bernick
250:
247:
227:
223:
219:
209:
200:
192:
190:
167:
160:originated.
142:
71:Nearest city
2510:WikiProject
2346:Alpine Club
2341:Access Fund
2251:Lowe Alpine
2246:La Sportiva
1983:Fall factor
1876:Self-arrest
1852:Redpointing
1775:Snow anchor
1529:Boulder mat
1478:Daisy chain
1448:Terminology
1439:Terminology
1318:Rooftopping
1260:Hillwalking
1248:Dry-tooling
1214:Via ferrata
1127:Traditional
1105:Competition
1086:Multi-pitch
1069:Disciplines
783:Translation
639:Translation
430:Malesherbes
428:, Buthiers-
420:, north of
383:le Cuvier (
360:Commanderie
263:painted by
239:René Ferlet
226:climbers).
109:48.41; 2.62
107: /
82:Coordinates
34:Dave Graham
2526:Categories
2134:El Capitan
1898:Traversing
1847:Onsighting
1827:Glissading
1810:DĂŒlfersitz
1805:Australian
1768:Transeiver
1713:Alpenstock
1646:Portaledge
1634:Copperhead
1573:Descenders
1507:Auto belay
1298:Commercial
1278:Buildering
1255:Scrambling
1165:Rock types
1156:Top roping
1093:Bouldering
998:bleau.info
957:2019-07-01
896:References
501:"cotation"
438:Chamarande
403:l'ĂlĂ©phant
385:Bas-Cuvier
228:Bleausards
220:Bleausards
153:bouldering
124:Bouldering
2286:Patagonia
2169:Companies
2155:Hard Grit
2148:Free Solo
2016:MoonBoard
2011:Hangboard
1997:Training
1946:Guidebook
1921:Ape index
1886:Rope team
1800:Abseiling
1745:Ice screw
1651:Quickdraw
1534:Carabiner
1456:Equipment
1434:Technique
1400:Equipment
1283:Canyoning
1221:Himalayan
1149:Rope solo
1139:Free solo
992:Pof@Bleau
809:le départ
734:Difficult
730:Difficile
636:Adjective
598:"Arrivée"
462:sandstone
460:) of the
454:Oligocene
432:(west of
301:Geography
245:in 1954.
243:Aconcagua
216:Karakoram
178:Franchard
136:Sandstone
131:Rock type
2486:Category
2333:National
2231:JanSport
2206:Five Ten
2081:Desnivel
2074:Climbing
2053:Alpinist
1978:Exposure
1956:Chipping
1903:Tyrolean
1893:Spotting
1864:Crevasse
1842:Flashing
1832:Jumaring
1817:Belaying
1780:Snowshoe
1738:Ice tool
1728:Crampons
1578:Figure-8
1490:Ascender
1358:Climbers
1098:Highball
1081:Big wall
1046:Climbing
878:See also
833:variante
802:La mauve
658:Children
614:circuits
612:Routes (
434:Larchant
407:Larchant
365:Larchant
191:Several
182:Apremont
2498:Commons
2452:(UIMLA)
2446:(UIAGM)
1837:Leading
1754:Rescue
1733:Ice axe
1683:Camalot
1617:Lanyard
1600:Skyhook
1585:Harness
1556:Dynamic
1539:Maillon
1512:Glasses
1393:Everest
1384:Deaths
1303:Parkour
933:17 July
857:arrivée
823:) or a
654:Enfants
504:factor.
448:Geology
426:Nemours
255:in the
164:History
92:48°25âČN
2474:Portal
2440:(UIAA)
2434:(IFSC)
2266:Millet
2256:Mammut
2221:Grivel
2191:Deuter
2109:Summit
1993:Guides
1988:Grades
1859:Rescue
1793:Action
1695:Tricam
1661:Grigri
1607:Hammer
1561:Static
1517:Gloves
1485:Anchor
1405:Brands
1209:Alpine
849:retour
813:départ
704:Orange
685:Yellow
673:Facile
630:Colour
539:départ
486:Facile
436:) and
391:) and
363:(near
358:de la
356:) and
352:(near
149:France
95:2°37âČE
2291:Petzl
2241:Kelty
2031:Media
1966:Pitch
1931:Clean
1914:Other
1763:RECCO
1690:Shoes
1678:SLCDs
1673:Sling
1641:Piton
1590:Hooks
1568:Chalk
1495:Croll
1473:Aider
1410:Knots
1346:Lists
1328:Slide
1293:Grass
1288:Crane
1271:Other
1243:Mixed
1172:Crack
1122:Sport
1110:Speed
1053:Types
1004:Video
864:navel
841:aller
781:(The
661:none
647:White
607:Bleau
518:Bleau
514:Bleau
510:Bleau
442:Bleau
422:Milly
409:, in
327:Bleau
323:Paris
311:Bleau
291:Bleau
224:Bleau
193:Bleau
75:Paris
2181:CAMP
1971:Topo
1941:Beta
1869:Self
1666:Revo
1656:SLDs
1595:Fifi
1551:Cord
1524:Bolt
1465:Rock
1333:Tree
1308:Pole
1187:Slab
1182:Roof
1177:Face
1134:Solo
1117:Free
935:2021
775:6-7
756:5â6
737:4â5
723:Blue
718:3â4
699:2â3
680:1â2
677:Easy
650:Enf.
585:Jump
495:The
476:The
401:and
347:des
237:and
201:P.A.
180:and
2301:REI
2296:Rab
1629:Nut
1622:PAC
1612:Hex
1238:Ice
1076:Aid
859:).
829:ter
821:bis
742:Red
559:bis
424:),
405:at
367:).
282:at
188:."
186:CAF
147:in
2528::
966:^
926:.
904:^
764:ED
745:TD
707:AD
688:PD
624::
520:.
444:.
387:,
345:,
337:)
286:.
233:,
1038:e
1031:t
1024:v
960:.
937:.
855:(
853:A
847:(
845:R
839:(
837:A
827:(
825:t
819:(
817:b
800:(
792:(
726:D
669:F
499:(
480:(
333:(
317:)
222:(
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