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Though perhaps not an outstanding climber, Devouassoud was cetainly more than a good guide. He loved exploration and always felt at home in the mountains, whether in Sikkim or
Algeria or on the Rowenzori.Though he started guiding very early, in 1849, he knew how to manage a rope and how to proceed on
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As
Freshfield stated, Devouassoud was the first alpine guide to work in the greater ranges. Cunningham and Abney write that he was "the doyen of the pioneers who have set out at different times for the Caucasus, the Himalayas, New Zealand, or the Andes". In 1868 he made the first ascents of
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snow slopes. He was able to save the lives of several of his employers. He was at his best on ice. But this grave, refined man, who had a keen sense of humour and taste for culture, was not only an excellent leader on a mountain, he was an ideal companion on long expeditions.
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In 1887 he was the subject of a photograph by Abney, possibly the one illustrating this article, entitled "A Chamounix Guide, Francois
Devouassoud" at the 32nd Exhibition of
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and
Charles Comyns Tucker. Devouassoud was treasurer of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix for ten years,<c&a2/> but refused the post of president.
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He was admitted to the
Compagnie des guides de Chamonix in 1849. Amongst those who sought his services in the Alps were Freshfield,
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28 June 1865 - Pizzo
Tresero (Ortles massif) with Francis Fox Tuckett, J.H. Backhouse, G.H. Fox and Peter Michel
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296:"Exhibitions of the Royal Photographic Society 1870-1915: Catalogue records from the annual exhibitions"
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valley. The eldest of three brothers, both of whom were also guides, Devouassoud was educated at
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Claire Engel offers the following portrait of
Devouassoud, based on the account of Freshfield:
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seminary in his youth and he contemplated becoming a priest but returned to
Chamonix.
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with
Douglas William Freshfield, Adolphus Warburton Moore and Charles Comyns Tucker
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with
Douglas William Freshfield, Adolphus Warburton Moore and Charles Comyns Tucker
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with G. H. Fox, Douglas William Freshfield, Francis Fox Tuckett and Peter Michel
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1875 - Sass Maor (Dolomites) with H. A. Beachcroft and Charles Comyns Tucker
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Devouassoud was born in 1831 in the hamlet of Les Barats in the
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286:, London: George Allen and Unwin, 1971, p. 156.
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169:with Charles Comyns Tucker and F. von Allmen
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218:, volume 1, London: Edward Arnold, 1902.
20:François Devouassoud in a photograph by
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165:10 July 1866 - North-west ridge of the
207:C. D. Cunningham and W. de W. Abney,
130:Photographic Society of Great Britain
30:(September 1831 – 1905) was a French
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190:31 July 1868 - North-west summit of
34:who made many first ascents in the
320:Cunningham and Abney, 1888, p. 109
273:Cunningham and Abney, 1888, p. 107
252:Cunningham and Abney, 1888, p. 105
211:, Boston: Estes and Lauriat, 1888.
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264:Cunningham and Abney, 1888, p. 28
216:The Exploration of the Caucasus
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214:Douglas William Freshfield,
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22:William de Wiveleslie Abney
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284:Mountaineering in the Alps
147:Douglas William Freshfield
40:Douglas William Freshfield
352:French mountain climbers
240:Freshfield, 1902, p. 18.
209:The Pioneers of the Alps
178:William Auguste Coolidge
93:Adolphus Warburton Moore
117:and the east summit of
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180:and Henri Devouassoud
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145:with M. Beachcroft,
28:François Devouassoud
85:Francis Fox Tuckett
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141:25 August 1864 -
81:W. A. B. Coolidge
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136:First ascents
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202:Bibliography
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342:1905 deaths
337:1831 births
167:Bietschhorn
331:Categories
223:References
174:Piz Badile
143:Presanella
60:Bonneville
56:Sallanches
123:Caucasus
52:Chamonix
121:in the
192:Elbruz
185:Kazbek
119:Elbrus
115:Kazbek
64:Jesuit
176:with
149:and
75:Alps
46:Life
36:Alps
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257:^
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