125:(4th highest mountain in the world) 21 hours later as guide to climber Tom Halliday. Also on the expedition was guide Michael Horst who made both summits as well in under a 24-hour period, a few days earlier. This was the first time that both Everest and Lhotse were summited together in under 24 hours, and Madison repeated the "double header" feat again in 2013, 2018, 2022 and 2023 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so five times. Madison holds the record for guiding the most number of climbers (12) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.
31:
132:, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with two climbers and three Sherpas on July 27, 2014, again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides, and 15 Sherpas, on July 28, 2021, with a summit team of 21, again on July 22, 2022, with a summit team of 15, and most recently on July 29, 2024, with a summit team of 18. Madison also regularly guides many
212:
Madison speaks professionally to organizations and teams about his mountaineering experiences, leadership, and managing risk. Some recent examples include Google, Microsoft, Amazon, Facebook, SAP, and many others. Madison’s forthcoming book “High-Stakes
Leadership: When Your Life And The Lives Of
312:
163:
In addition, Madison is regularly involved with film productions on
Everest, participating in four different features over three years. Most recently, Madison's company, Madison Mountaineering, brought a
121:
On May 19–20, 2011, he reached the summit of Mount
Everest on his fourth successful attempt as expedition leader and guide for Alpine Ascents International, and reached the summit of
205:
In addition to leading high-altitude expeditions worldwide throughout the year, Madison consults on mountaineering equipment development and testing and is an athlete for
753:
184:
691:
113:
and other high altitude peaks, operates on the highest peaks on all seven continents, and also provides training programs and summit climbs in
Washington State.
946:
442:
247:
The MTN Meister
Podcast featured an interview with Madison in 2014 detailing, among other things, his ascent of K2 that was the mountain's first guided climb.
931:
499:
394:
589:
209:. Mountain Hardwear offers a selection of high-altitude expedition gear personally designed and endorsed by Madison in the Garrett Madison Collection.
951:
483:
424:
771:
358:
550:
183:
triggered an avalanche, resulting in the deadliest day in
Everest's history. The team's doctor, Eve Girawong, was one of the American
843:
893:
635:
190:
Madison holds multiple high altitude mountaineering world records such as being the only person to climb Mount
Everest and nearby
299:
332:
879:
68:
268:
180:
450:
825:
956:
168:
camera to the summit of Mount
Everest. As an executive producer, Garrett Madison was awarded the 2017 Sports
941:
649:
507:
402:
670:
936:
709:
293:
Madison frequently provides narration and commentary for mountaineering media productions, such as
286:
172:
in
Outstanding Digital Innovation for the resulting SI.com/Life VR production, Capturing Everest.
807:
731:
56:
30:
636:"Sports Illustrated partnering to produce first complete Mt. Everest climb in virtual reality"
479:
206:
137:
222:
614:
575:
529:
257:
165:
263:
233:
is supported with photos and notes of
Madison's mountain rescue and recovery efforts.
925:
279:
198:
four times, and personally has led more climbers to the summits of Mount Everest and
176:
145:
133:
110:
106:
102:
336:
789:
149:
98:
78:
101:, guide and expedition leader. Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on
861:
692:"Foreign climbers arrive in Pakistan to summit K2 as COVID-19 curbs relaxed"
500:"Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp"
157:
141:
590:"K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Post Summit Video Interview with Garrett Madison"
290:
covered Madison’s successful first ascent of Nupla Khang in November 2018.
399:
Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp
109:
14 times. His company, Madison Mountaineering, specializes in climbs on
826:"Everest Avalanche Survivor Garrett Madison: 'I Was Powerless to Help'"
376:
294:
237:
230:
52:
425:"Record-setting performances highlight a bizarre week on Mt. Everest"
191:
153:
122:
473:
475:
The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley
912:
313:
List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
275:
169:
253:
featured Madison on the cover of their 2015 Adventure Issue.
128:
In 2014, Madison led the first successfully guided ascent of
844:"Mount Everest climber describes 'awful noise' of avalanche"
359:"Everest 2024: More Summits and Deaths as Season Winds Down"
551:"K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Record Weekend on K2 and a Death"
199:
195:
129:
754:"11 Dead or Missing, Scores Injured in Manaslu Avalanche"
880:"Six climbers, five Sherpa guides summit Mt Nupla Khang"
194:
in a day, five times. He is the only American to climb
156:as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the
84:
74:
64:
37:
21:
650:"39th Annual Sports Emmy Awards Winners Announced"
240:summit was published in the October 2012 issue of
229:s story of the deadly September 2012 avalanche on
267:both highlighted Madison's experience during the
576:"Madison Mountaineering: Dispatches: K2 2018"
8:
213:Others Hang In The Balance” is coming soon.
443:"Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours"
333:"Alpine Ascents International Guide Staff"
175:Madison was leading a team of climbers up
29:
18:
16:American mountaineer and guide (born 1978)
377:"Madison Mountaineering Official Website"
236:An interview and story of Madison's 2012
88:James Christian and Mary Margaret Madison
732:"Garrett Madison Expedition Collection"
324:
97:(born November 3, 1978) is an American
862:"SC Featured: At the Top of the World"
7:
947:Western Washington University alumni
478:. Golden, CO: American Alpine Club.
136:expeditions during the year such as
932:American summiters of Mount Everest
278:featured Madison in a video about
14:
790:"Garrett Madison: Paving the Way"
472:Hawley, Elizabeth (2004–2011).
300:14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible
952:Mountain climbers from Seattle
1:
69:Western Washington University
808:"Outside Magazine, May 2015"
271:while covering the tragedy.
615:"Garrett Madison biography"
594:The Blog on alanarnette.com
555:The Blog on alanarnette.com
530:"Garrett Madison biography"
363:The Blog on alanarnette.com
269:April 2015 Nepal earthquake
181:April 2015 Nepal earthquake
973:
710:"Athletes and Ambassadors"
28:
894:"Netflix Official Site"
381:Madison Mountaineering
453:on September 20, 2011
510:on February 24, 2012
405:on February 24, 2012
794:MTN Meister Podcast
734:. Mountain Hardwear
712:. Mountain Hardwear
671:"Capturing Everest"
287:The Himalayan Times
485:978-9937-506-64-9
447:Climbing Magazine
339:on March 18, 2016
207:Mountain Hardwear
138:Carstensz Pyramid
92:
91:
964:
916:
915:
913:Official website
898:
897:
890:
884:
883:
876:
870:
869:
858:
852:
851:
840:
834:
833:
822:
816:
815:
804:
798:
797:
786:
780:
779:
768:
762:
761:
750:
744:
743:
741:
739:
728:
722:
721:
719:
717:
706:
700:
699:
688:
682:
681:
679:
677:
667:
661:
660:
658:
656:
646:
640:
639:
632:
626:
625:
623:
621:
611:
605:
604:
602:
600:
586:
580:
579:
572:
566:
565:
563:
561:
547:
541:
540:
538:
536:
526:
520:
519:
517:
515:
506:. Archived from
496:
490:
489:
469:
463:
462:
460:
458:
449:. Archived from
439:
433:
432:
421:
415:
414:
412:
410:
401:. Archived from
391:
385:
384:
373:
367:
366:
355:
349:
348:
346:
344:
335:. Archived from
329:
251:Outside Magazine
242:Outside Magazine
228:
223:Outside Magazine
105:and has climbed
48:
46:
41:November 3, 1978
33:
19:
972:
971:
967:
966:
965:
963:
962:
961:
957:Summiters of K2
922:
921:
911:
910:
907:
902:
901:
892:
891:
887:
878:
877:
873:
860:
859:
855:
842:
841:
837:
824:
823:
819:
806:
805:
801:
788:
787:
783:
772:"Take a Number"
770:
769:
765:
752:
751:
747:
737:
735:
730:
729:
725:
715:
713:
708:
707:
703:
690:
689:
685:
675:
673:
669:
668:
664:
654:
652:
648:
647:
643:
634:
633:
629:
619:
617:
613:
612:
608:
598:
596:
588:
587:
583:
574:
573:
569:
559:
557:
549:
548:
544:
534:
532:
528:
527:
523:
513:
511:
498:
497:
493:
486:
471:
470:
466:
456:
454:
441:
440:
436:
423:
422:
418:
408:
406:
393:
392:
388:
375:
374:
370:
357:
356:
352:
342:
340:
331:
330:
326:
321:
309:
258:People Magazine
226:
219:
166:virtual reality
119:
117:Climbing career
95:Garrett Madison
60:
50:
44:
42:
24:
23:Garrett Madison
17:
12:
11:
5:
970:
968:
960:
959:
954:
949:
944:
939:
934:
924:
923:
918:
917:
906:
905:External links
903:
900:
899:
885:
871:
853:
835:
817:
812:Outside Online
799:
781:
763:
745:
723:
701:
683:
662:
641:
627:
606:
581:
567:
542:
521:
491:
484:
464:
434:
416:
395:"Everest News"
386:
368:
350:
323:
322:
320:
317:
316:
315:
308:
305:
274:In July 2015,
264:The Today Show
218:
215:
118:
115:
90:
89:
86:
82:
81:
76:
72:
71:
66:
62:
61:
51:
39:
35:
34:
26:
25:
22:
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
969:
958:
955:
953:
950:
948:
945:
943:
942:Living people
940:
938:
935:
933:
930:
929:
927:
920:
914:
909:
908:
904:
895:
889:
886:
881:
875:
872:
867:
863:
857:
854:
849:
845:
839:
836:
831:
827:
821:
818:
813:
809:
803:
800:
795:
791:
785:
782:
777:
773:
767:
764:
759:
755:
749:
746:
733:
727:
724:
711:
705:
702:
697:
693:
687:
684:
676:September 21,
672:
666:
663:
655:September 21,
651:
645:
642:
637:
631:
628:
616:
610:
607:
595:
591:
585:
582:
577:
571:
568:
556:
552:
546:
543:
531:
525:
522:
509:
505:
501:
495:
492:
487:
481:
477:
476:
468:
465:
452:
448:
444:
438:
435:
430:
426:
420:
417:
404:
400:
396:
390:
387:
382:
378:
372:
369:
364:
360:
354:
351:
338:
334:
328:
325:
318:
314:
311:
310:
306:
304:
302:
301:
296:
291:
289:
288:
283:
281:
280:Mount Everest
277:
272:
270:
266:
265:
260:
259:
254:
252:
248:
245:
243:
239:
238:Mount Everest
234:
232:
225:
224:
216:
214:
210:
208:
203:
202:than anyone.
201:
197:
193:
188:
186:
182:
178:
177:Mount Everest
173:
171:
167:
161:
159:
155:
151:
147:
146:Vinson Massif
143:
139:
135:
134:Seven Summits
131:
126:
124:
116:
114:
112:
111:Mount Everest
108:
107:Mount Everest
104:
103:Mount Rainier
100:
96:
87:
83:
80:
77:
73:
70:
67:
63:
58:
54:
49:(age 45)
40:
36:
32:
27:
20:
919:
888:
874:
865:
856:
847:
838:
829:
820:
811:
802:
793:
784:
775:
766:
757:
748:
736:. Retrieved
726:
714:. Retrieved
704:
696:gulfnews.com
695:
686:
674:. Retrieved
665:
653:. Retrieved
644:
630:
618:. Retrieved
609:
597:. Retrieved
593:
584:
570:
558:. Retrieved
554:
545:
533:. Retrieved
524:
512:. Retrieved
508:the original
504:Everest News
503:
494:
474:
467:
455:. Retrieved
451:the original
446:
437:
428:
419:
407:. Retrieved
403:the original
398:
389:
380:
371:
362:
353:
341:. Retrieved
337:the original
327:
298:
292:
285:
284:
273:
262:
256:
255:
250:
249:
246:
241:
235:
221:
220:
211:
204:
189:
174:
162:
127:
120:
94:
93:
937:1978 births
738:November 3,
716:November 3,
599:November 3,
560:December 2,
150:Kilimanjaro
99:mountaineer
79:Mountaineer
926:Categories
620:October 7,
535:October 7,
319:References
185:fatalities
75:Occupation
57:Washington
45:1978-11-03
514:March 30,
457:March 31,
409:March 30,
343:March 30,
179:when the
158:Himalayas
142:Aconcagua
85:Parent(s)
65:Education
307:See also
776:Outside
758:Outside
429:GrindTV
295:Netflix
231:Manaslu
53:Seattle
43: (
830:People
482:
303:film.
192:Lhotse
154:Elbrus
123:Lhotse
59:, U.S.
848:TODAY
227:'
217:Media
866:ESPN
740:2021
718:2021
678:2018
657:2018
622:2015
601:2021
562:2018
537:2015
516:2012
480:ISBN
459:2012
411:2012
345:2012
276:ESPN
261:and
170:Emmy
152:and
38:Born
297:'s
928::
864:.
846:.
828:.
810:.
792:.
774:.
756:.
694:.
592:.
553:.
502:.
445:.
427:.
397:.
379:.
361:.
282:.
244:.
200:K2
196:K2
187:.
160:.
148:,
144:,
140:,
130:K2
55:,
896:.
882:.
868:.
850:.
832:.
814:.
796:.
778:.
760:.
742:.
720:.
698:.
680:.
659:.
638:.
624:.
603:.
578:.
564:.
539:.
518:.
488:.
461:.
431:.
413:.
383:.
365:.
347:.
47:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.