323:(1904–2000) — Gill was probably the first climber in the history of rock climbing to make bouldering his primary specialty and to advocate acceptance of bouldering as a legitimate sport in its own right. His focus on bouldering and the high difficulty level climbs he established inspired a number of traditional climbers to take a more serious view of the sport, which, for the most part had been seen merely as training for longer roped climbs.
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496:, achieving a time of 3.4 seconds for the 20' rope climb (from seated position on the floor, arms only). The existing record - set in the 1950s - is 2.8 seconds. He accomplished a number of difficult stunts on the rings, including inverted and olympic crosses, giant swings, and slow pulls from hang to handstand. He also engaged in what are now called
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From his early ascent of the east face of Longs Peak in 1954, throughout his climbing career until he left the sport in the early 2000s, a recurring theme of Gill's climbing was exploratory free soloing (at times with a light rappel rope) - usually, but not always, at moderate levels of difficulty.
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In fact, the
Thimble – which he considered a climb and not a boulder problem - was a test of how far he was willing to go in that direction. Once he completed a route (most were unreported) he might return to it, perhaps many times, to enjoy the continuous movement and flow of the climb.
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308:, which he considered unaesthetic. Gill's approach to bouldering – artistic style being on par with difficulty – was rarely followed by climbers of his generation and is considered unusual today, difficulty remaining paramount. He also practiced bouldering as a form of
225:., served terms as mathematics department chair, president of the Sigma Xi (research) Club, Board of Governors of the Mathematical Association of America, and received an Outstanding Faculty Award. Gill retired as professor of mathematics from the
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similar to gymnastics, achieving seven one-arm pullups with the right arm and five with the left, several one-finger one-arm pullups, one-arm pullups carrying twenty pounds, one-arm pullups on a one-half inch ledge, and one-arm front levers.
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After retiring, Gill spent several years researching the origins of rock climbing, particularly bouldering. He also compiled a chronicle of bodyweight feats associated with climbing. These results, along with a history of gymnastic
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Gill's climbing style showed the influence of formal gymnastics. He emphasized form and grace of motion over simple efficiency, the cornerstone of contemporary climbing. His performances, as recorded on film taken when he was forty
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In the 1950s, John Gill introduced a very early – if not the first – grading system specifically designed for bouldering and not restricted to a particular area. The system,
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realm, before that grade was formally recognized — one of the first to be done in
America. By the end of the 1950s, Gill had reached what would now be considered
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some twenty years later and more intense competition weakened the philosophical underpinnings of the three-tiered structure, although climbers such as
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514:. Alpine House Publishing; Adventure's Meaning Press (1992), Stackpole Press (1998), Vertebrate Press (2020). Plus Italian and Japanese editions.
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three-level systems similar to Gill's. Today, Gill's B-system is rarely used, abandoned in favor of open-ended grading systems such as the
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into
American rock climbing. The use of chalk then spread internationally throughout the climbing world. At the same time he introduced
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grade. Gill climbed the route without the benefit of modern climbing shoes, significantly increasing the difficulty of the climb.
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in 1959 — set new standards of bouldering difficulty. And his 1961 route on a steep face of a small granite spire named the
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During his career as a college professor, Gill wrote approximately thirty research papers on the analytic theory of
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J. Gill, "Use of
Attractive Fixed Points to Accelerate the Convergence of Limit Periodic Continued Fractions",
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His introduction of chalk and dynamic movement marked the beginning of modern climbing in
America.
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Gill on Red Cross Rock
Eliminate V9. With initial fingertip hold on the right the problem is V7.
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As an amateur gymnast in the 1950s, 6'2" and 180 pounds, Gill specialized in the competitive
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Although certainly not the first serious boulderer — his notable predecessors include
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548:, Chap.1 - "John Gill & the Birth of Modern Bouldering". American Alpine Club Press.
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as a second lieutenant, and also attended a special graduate meteorology program at the
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in the late 1960s. Gill is known for his applications of gymnastics to rock climbing.
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for outstanding climbing achievement. He received the club's highest award,
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1936:
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576:, (John Gill)"Bouldering: A Mystical Art Form", Overlook Press, New York.
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151:, Georgia, where he graduated from Bass High School in 1954. He attended
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rather than hiking, in the mid-1950s he introduced the use of gymnastic
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555:, "John Gill, at the Roots of the Movement". Les Editions Du Mont Blanc
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boulder problems. (He later stated he probably never progressed beyond
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569:, Die Geschichte Des Boulderns. Red Bull Media House GmbH, Salzburg.
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As a child, Gill lived in several southern U.S. cities, including
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from 1964 to 1967. In 1967 he enrolled as a graduate student at
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Recent mathematics classroom/research notes on researchgate.net
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Gill, John (1986). "Reflections of a Middle Aged
Boulderer",
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J. Gill, "Attractive Fixed Points and
Continued Fractions",
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J. Gill, "Infinite
Compositions of Möbius Transformations",
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of South Dakota) — an unrehearsed and unroped 30-foot
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Being a gymnast and thinking of climbing as an extension of
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Communications in the Analytic Theory of Continued Fractions
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Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America
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John Gill bouldering at age 45 from "On the Rocks" - movie
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After obtaining a master's degree in mathematics from the
83:
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John Gill began mountain and rock climbing in 1953 as a
135:. He is widely considered to be the father of American
998:
Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
159:
with a degree in mathematics in 1958. He entered the
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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920:"John Gill: Career as a Teacher and Mathematician"
572:Tobia, M. Charles & Drasdo, Harald (1979).
808:John Gill:Master of Rock. Climbing Classics #2
754:"Interview with John Gill - bouldering legend"
541:, Chap. 2 – "Gill". Lyons & Burford Press.
366:, in 1958, John Gill climbed a short route on
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389:Two of his problems on Red Cross Rock in the
171:in Montana until 1962, and resigned from the
8:
1046:https://americanalpineclub.org/legacy-series
517:Gill, John (1969). "The Art of Bouldering",
26:
1104:Climbing Gold: Honnold interviews John Gill
2552:International Federation of Sport Climbing
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560:Rock Stars: The World's Best Free Climbers
155:from 1954 to 1956, and graduated from the
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25:
735:
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718:List of grade milestones in rock climbing
562:, "John Gill". Rother Druck GmbH, Munich.
553:The 9th Grade: 150 Years of Free Climbing
802:
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778:"Why math brains fall for rock climbing"
241:John Gill, performing a dynamic move at
2677:People associated with physical culture
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608:High(1986)(Britain), Outside(1989)(USA)
463:Longer climbs - free solo explorations
186:in 1964, Gill became an instructor at
19:For other people named John Gill, see
167:in 1958 and 1959. He was assigned to
131:who has achieved recognition for his
7:
2682:21st-century American mathematicians
2662:20th-century American mathematicians
2612:
836:Transactions of the Amer. Math. Soc.
194:, and received his PhD in classical
2624:
534:. Falcon Guide. Globe Pequot Press.
350:Early bouldering & short climbs
1027:, Millennium Special, March (2000)
613:Rock&Ice(1993,1997,2005))(USA)
581:Magazine articles & interviews
386:throughout his climbing career.).
143:Early life and professional career
127:(born 16 Feb 1937) is an American
16:American mathematician (born 1937)
14:
2521:South African Climbing Federation
1059:"World Records for Rope Climbing"
472:Gymnastics and strength exercises
215:linear fractional transformations
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1493:IFSC World Championships winners
709:, a pioneer in modern bouldering
703:, a pioneer in modern bouldering
480:John Gill, performing a one arm
2672:Murray State University faculty
331:, may be found on his website.
227:University of Southern Colorado
202:was supervised by Arne Magnus.
2491:British Mountaineering Council
1:
1119:Interview on theshortspan.com
824:Mathematics Genealogy Project
743:, American Alpine Club Press.
678:Hoogtelijn(2007)(Netherlands)
653:Montana(2003)(Czech Republic)
598:Iwa To Yuki(1984,1992)(Japan)
588:Climbing(1976,1996,2000)(USA)
519:American Alpine Club Journal.
298:2013 John Gill Exercising (a)
198:in 1971. His dissertation on
593:Mountain(1977,1986)(Britain)
618:Flash Communique(1993)(USA)
118:Updated on 12 December 2015
2703:
901:. Colorado Mesa University
688:Rock&Snow(2015)(Japan)
603:New Age Journal(1985)(USA)
21:John Gill (disambiguation)
18:
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2481:Appalachian Mountain Club
441:traditional rock climbing
192:Colorado State University
117:
113:
94:
33:
2396:Mountain Safety Research
2391:Mountain Equipment Co-op
981:The American Alpine Club
849:Mathematica Scandinavica
713:History of rock climbing
673:Urban Climber(2006)(USA)
633:Math Horizons(1997)(USA)
512:John Gill:Master of Rock
2526:South Tyrol Alpine Club
2321:Eastern Mountain Sports
2187:Canadian Alpine Journal
2180:American Alpine Journal
1443:Roof and tunnel hacking
996:>Ament, Pat (2002).
658:Outsider(2004)(Ireland)
643:Klettern(2003)(Germany)
638:RotPunkt(2000)(Germany)
623:Roc'NWall(1995)(France)
565:Zangrel, Bernd (2013).
551:Chambre, David (2015).
334:Gill received the 2008
188:Murray State University
2657:American rock climbers
2346:Holubar Mountaineering
2158:Magazines and journals
1488:IFSC World Cup winners
862:Proc. Amer. Math. Soc.
739:Sherman, John (1994).
668:Campobase(2006)(Spain)
628:VBouldering(1995)(USA)
544:Sherman, John (1994).
537:Krakauer, Jon (1990).
485:
443:. The introduction of
359:
246:
245:, KY in the mid-1960s.
200:Möbius transformations
2471:Alpine Club of Canada
2381:Marmot Mountain Works
2336:GERRY Mountain Sports
1109:John Gill on training
1063:www.recordholders.org
959:"john gill's website"
532:Training for Climbing
479:
357:
240:
223:St Andrews University
184:University of Alabama
179:several years later.
165:University of Chicago
157:University of Georgia
2501:Club Alpino Italiano
2486:Austrian Alpine Club
2476:American Alpine Club
977:"The Pinnacle Award"
683:Climb(2007)(Britain)
530:Horst, Eric (2003).
498:bodyweight exercises
336:American Alpine Club
257:A modern perspective
221:with John McCabe of
46:Personal information
2496:Club Alpin Français
1870:Mountaineering boot
1483:Piolet d'Or winners
1036:John Gill's Website
806:Ament, Pat (1998).
663:Alpinist(2005)(USA)
574:The Mountain Spirit
558:Zak, Heinz (1997).
510:Ament, Pat (1977).
344:Honorary Membership
271:controlled dynamics
251:traditional climber
207:continued fractions
30:
2516:German Alpine Club
1000:, Wilderness Press
899:"History of CATCF"
648:GĂ“RY(2003)(Poland)
486:
431:"B" Grading system
360:
247:
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2531:Swiss Alpine Club
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2283:
2239:Non-fiction films
2215:Planinski Vestnik
2208:Himalayan Journal
2146:
2145:
1908:
1907:
1537:Historical events
1508:Eight-thousanders
1461:
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1315:
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1114:on palatinum.info
1048:, November (2019)
1025:Climbing Magazine
940:Alpinist Magazine
810:, Stackpole Books
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525:Mountain Magazine
370:that lies in the
368:Baxter's Pinnacle
310:moving meditation
300:, and forty-five
293:Disciples of Gill
211:complex functions
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71:February 16, 1937
40:John Gill in 1968
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2687:Boulder climbers
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2401:Outdoor Research
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1542:Grade milestones
1351:Expedition style
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1097:Official website
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378:levels on a few
319:(1859–1921) and
317:Oscar Eckenstein
243:Pennyrile Forest
196:complex analysis
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73:(age 87)
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2536:USA Climbing
2436:Wild Country
2431:Therm-a-Rest
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2247:The Alpinist
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2126:Campus board
2081:First ascent
1825:Ice and snow
1622:Belay device
1473:Alpine clubs
1433:Ropes course
1346:Alpine style
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957:gill, john.
939:
934:
923:. Retrieved
914:
903:. Retrieved
893:
882:. Retrieved
879:ResearchGate
878:
869:
861:
856:
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843:
835:
830:
815:
807:
786:. Retrieved
784:. 2010-07-28
781:
772:
761:. Retrieved
757:
748:
740:
701:John Sherman
573:
566:
559:
552:
545:
539:Eiger Dreams
538:
531:
524:
518:
511:
487:
466:
452:
449:Jim Holloway
437:(B1, B2, B3)
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181:
153:Georgia Tech
146:
124:
123:
2652:1937 births
2630:WikiProject
2466:Alpine Club
2461:Access Fund
2371:Lowe Alpine
2366:La Sportiva
2103:Fall factor
1996:Self-arrest
1972:Redpointing
1895:Snow anchor
1649:Boulder mat
1598:Daisy chain
1568:Terminology
1559:Terminology
1438:Rooftopping
1380:Hillwalking
1368:Dry-tooling
1334:Via ferrata
1247:Traditional
1225:Competition
1206:Multi-pitch
1189:Disciplines
875:"John Gill"
707:Fred Nicole
494:still rings
482:front lever
346:, in 2023.
282:magazine, "
169:Glasgow AFB
51:Nationality
2646:Categories
2254:El Capitan
2018:Traversing
1967:Onsighting
1947:Glissading
1930:DĂĽlfersitz
1925:Australian
1888:Transeiver
1833:Alpenstock
1766:Portaledge
1754:Copperhead
1693:Descenders
1627:Auto belay
1418:Commercial
1398:Buildering
1375:Scrambling
1285:Rock types
1276:Top roping
1213:Bouldering
925:2018-01-07
905:2018-01-07
884:2020-07-22
788:2020-07-21
763:2020-07-21
724:References
490:rope climb
416:climb (or
393:— a
263:gymnastics
233:Bouldering
137:bouldering
108:Bouldering
67:1937-02-16
2406:Patagonia
2289:Companies
2275:Hard Grit
2268:Free Solo
2136:MoonBoard
2131:Hangboard
2117:Training
2066:Guidebook
2041:Ape index
2006:Rope team
1920:Abseiling
1865:Ice screw
1771:Quickdraw
1654:Carabiner
1576:Equipment
1554:Technique
1520:Equipment
1403:Canyoning
1341:Himalayan
1269:Rope solo
1259:Free solo
1124:Interview
942:#12, 2005
864:, Vol. 47
851:, Vol. 33
820:John Gill
414:free-solo
380:eliminate
306:heel hook
296:, 2009),
229:in 2000.
125:John Gill
86:.johngill
28:John Gill
2606:Category
2453:National
2351:JanSport
2326:Five Ten
2201:Desnivel
2194:Climbing
2173:Alpinist
2098:Exposure
2076:Chipping
2023:Tyrolean
2013:Spotting
1984:Crevasse
1962:Flashing
1952:Jumaring
1937:Belaying
1900:Snowshoe
1858:Ice tool
1848:Crampons
1698:Figure-8
1610:Ascender
1478:Climbers
1218:Highball
1201:Big wall
1166:Climbing
938:Editors,
782:Futurity
695:See also
567:Bouldern
492:and the
453:personal
451:adopted
421:highball
418:V4 or V5
279:Alpinist
55:American
2618:Commons
2572:(UIMLA)
2566:(UIAGM)
1957:Leading
1874:Rescue
1853:Ice axe
1803:Camalot
1737:Lanyard
1720:Skyhook
1705:Harness
1676:Dynamic
1659:Maillon
1632:Glasses
1513:Everest
1504:Deaths
1423:Parkour
1080:YouTube
1014:YouTube
822:at the
457:V-scale
407:Needles
403:Thimble
362:In the
177:captain
149:Atlanta
79:Website
2594:Portal
2560:(UIAA)
2554:(IFSC)
2386:Millet
2376:Mammut
2341:Grivel
2311:Deuter
2229:Summit
2113:Guides
2108:Grades
1979:Rescue
1913:Action
1815:Tricam
1781:Grigri
1727:Hammer
1681:Static
1637:Gloves
1605:Anchor
1525:Brands
1329:Alpine
391:Tetons
364:Tetons
2411:Petzl
2361:Kelty
2151:Media
2086:Pitch
2051:Clean
2034:Other
1883:RECCO
1810:Shoes
1798:SLCDs
1793:Sling
1761:Piton
1710:Hooks
1688:Chalk
1615:Croll
1593:Aider
1530:Knots
1466:Lists
1448:Slide
1413:Grass
1408:Crane
1391:Other
1363:Mixed
1292:Crack
1242:Sport
1230:Speed
1173:Types
1076:Video
1010:Video
411:5.12a
267:chalk
175:as a
2301:CAMP
2091:Topo
2061:Beta
1989:Self
1786:Revo
1776:SLDs
1715:Fifi
1671:Cord
1644:Bolt
1585:Rock
1453:Tree
1428:Pole
1307:Slab
1302:Roof
1297:Face
1254:Solo
1237:Free
527:#107
425:5.12
372:5.10
88:.net
61:Born
2421:REI
2416:Rab
1749:Nut
1742:PAC
1732:Hex
1358:Ice
1196:Aid
1078:on
1012:on
384:V10
338:'s
84:www
2648::
1061:.
989:^
979:.
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947:^
877:.
797:^
780:.
756:.
732:^
459:.
399:V9
395:V8
376:V9
312:.
286:"
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209:,
139:.
69:)
1158:e
1151:t
1144:v
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405:(
290:(
65:(
23:.
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