131:), or shawl. Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are the most common of the three and are usually only found on single-breasted jackets. They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree 'notch' at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Peaked lapels have sharp edges which point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels may be found on single breasted jackets as well. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits.
253:
109:
button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.
196:) pockets. The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on
275:, and, for practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British.
31:
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240:(U.S.). Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit. A "cuffed sleeve" has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as
231:
on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature
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In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now
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can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural
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jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to
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The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw
82:
Since 1860, all the components of the suit began to be sewn from a uniform fabric. Today, jackets come in different lengths, but the classic is one in which the jacket covers the buttocks, the sleeves reach the wrist, and the cuff of the shirt extends out a couple of centimeters from under the
215:
seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while
78:
The 1870s saw the birth of the suit, which at first was met with great skepticism and viewed primarily as leisure wear. In particular, which came into fashion in the late 1870s, a suit in a large plaid with rolled to the knee pants.
178:, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.
74:
The jacket was originally a work jacket that came into fashion due to the French
Revolution. It was popular among sailors, and in the 19th century it became a common item of clothing for sports and recreation.
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Jackets are usually made of woolen fabric, but other fabrics such as cotton, linen, and velvet are also available. Tweed is widely used in the United
Kingdom.
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271:) of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a
192:
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted (
437:"1870s Hodgepodge: His and Hers Dressing Rooms, Bathing, a Bride's Trousseau, Rules of Victorian Mourning, and Many Fashion Illustrations"
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Druesdow (1990). p. vi. "...for often the difference in style from season to season was in the distance between buttons..."
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dinner jackets often have only one button). It is rare to find a suit jacket with more than four buttons, although
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suit jackets have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual (except that
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593:"What's the Difference Between a Notch Lapel, Peak Lapel, and Shawl Lapel on a Suit"
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mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the
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341:"History of the Suit: The Evolution of Menswear from 1800 to Today"
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729:"For Fine Recession Wear, $ 7,000 Suits From Saks (Off the Rack)"
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365:"Fashion During the French Revolution (Politics and Clothing)"
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A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a
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The Nu-Way Course in
Fashionable Clothes Making (1926).
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Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four
509:"Victorian Men's Fashion History and Clothing Guide"
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764:"Raw Materials Used in Making Coats and Jackets"
244:carried over to informal wear, but is now rare.
123:The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called
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413:"History of Men's Suits (Illustrated Timeline)"
27:Man's coat worn with a business or lounge suit
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727:Rosenbloom, Stephanie (February 13, 2009).
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167:between the collar and front lapel).
7:
461:"1860-1869 Fashion History Timeline"
2830:Global trade of secondhand clothing
788:"How to Look After A Tweed Jacket"
389:"The work jacket: an iconic piece"
267:is a slit in the bottom rear (the
211:or handkerchief can be displayed.
25:
34:Single and double-breasted jacket
2866:
619:"Single-breasted, peaked lapel"
595:. sharpsense.ca. Archived from
485:"Custom tailor in Los Angeles"
1:
279:traditionally have no vents.
753:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172
703:Mahon, Thomas (2007-01-18).
651:Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07).
617:Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29).
768:www.onlineclothingstudy.com
582:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 16
573:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 14
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2840:List of individual dresses
259:; US. Dept. of Agriculture
185:
116:
87:Single and double-breasted
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1910:
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641:Flusser (2002). pp. 82–85
465:fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu
345:www.gentlemansgazette.com
257:Sewing Menswear--Jackets
653:"What's in your lapel?"
533:"Victorian Era Fashion"
489:patternmaker-tailor.net
2845:Reconstructed clothing
393:www.premieremanche.com
260:
155:
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83:sleeve of the jacket.
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564:Flusser (2002). p. 83
369:www.givemehistory.com
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174:, intended to hold a
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2786:Environmental impact
705:"Real cuff holes..."
238:working button holes
2873:Clothing portal
657:A Suitable Wardrobe
170:Lapels also have a
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62:that is part of a
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2774:Halloween costume
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513:vintagedancer.com
16:(Redirected from
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42:, also called a
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44:lounge jacket
41:
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19:
18:Lounge jacket
2813:Fur clothing
2633:Pocket watch
2069:
1954:British Warm
1929:Chesterfield
1840:boxer shorts
1835:boxer briefs
1567:little black
1220:Bell-bottoms
1190:sweater vest
795:. Retrieved
791:
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771:. Retrieved
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601:. Retrieved
597:the original
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348:. Retrieved
344:
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286:
273:morning coat
268:
262:
256:
237:
233:
232:is called a
226:
213:
206:
200:, such as a
193:
191:
169:
164:
160:
157:
146:peaked lapel
128:
124:
122:
90:
81:
77:
73:
51:
47:
43:
39:
37:
2712:Semi-formal
2678:Dress codes
2568:Boutonnière
2550:Accessories
2429:Swim diaper
2424:Swim briefs
2389:Boardshorts
2309:Windbreaker
2070:Suit jacket
2065:Mess jacket
1959:Guards Coat
1878:See-through
1642:Romper suit
1016:Neck gaiter
1011:Neckerchief
865:Terminology
708:English Cut
623:English Cut
242:frock coats
188:Coat pocket
176:boutonnière
154:shawl lapel
127:), peaked (
104:waistline.
48:lounge coat
40:suit jacket
2653:Suspenders
2648:Sunglasses
2583:Cummerbund
2573:Coin purse
2477:Flip-flops
2472:Dress shoe
2467:Dress boot
2462:Court shoe
2409:Rash guard
2356:Nightshirt
2230:Harrington
2188:pellegrina
2048:Frock coat
2041:Suit coats
2030:Mackintosh
1971:Over-frock
1830:Underpants
1779:Undershirt
1652:Shirtdress
1493:boilersuit
1390:diplomatic
1352:Yoga pants
1342:Sweatpants
1255:High water
1250:Go-to-hell
1143:sleeveless
1096:halterneck
1086:cache-cœur
1006:Lavallière
860:Technology
797:2024-08-07
773:2024-08-07
740:2009-02-14
713:2008-10-26
662:2008-09-24
628:2008-09-20
603:2017-09-26
542:2024-08-07
518:2024-08-07
494:2024-08-07
470:2024-08-07
446:2024-08-07
422:2024-08-07
398:2024-08-07
374:2024-08-07
350:2024-08-07
328:References
198:formalwear
172:buttonhole
101:zoot suits
2722:black tie
2705:white tie
2613:Jewellery
2530:Pantyhose
2404:One-piece
2351:Nightgown
2323:Nightwear
2161:Inverness
2156:ferraiolo
1981:shadbelly
1949:Greatcoat
1916:Overcoats
1903:outerwear
1749:Underwear
1704:Miniskirt
1689:Ballerina
1606:Strapless
1584:debutante
1579:ball gown
1557:Coatdress
1498:cleanroom
1456:Religious
1451:Political
1347:Windpants
1285:Parachute
1202:Waistcoat
1180:polo neck
677:Lesson 33
52:suit coat
2886:Category
2729:Informal
2658:Umbrella
2603:Headband
2578:Cufflink
2535:Stocking
2520:Hold-ups
2449:Footwear
2399:Monokini
2394:Dry suit
2371:Swimwear
2346:Negligee
2336:Babygrow
2331:Babydoll
2299:Ski suit
2282:bathrobe
2262:Lab coat
2240:mackinaw
2183:mozzetta
2173:monastic
2134:pinafore
2097:Tailcoat
2025:Raincoat
1805:Leggings
1774:Camisole
1754:lingerie
1662:Sundress
1562:Cocktail
1547:Backless
1488:Workwear
1471:vestment
1466:clerical
1446:Pantsuit
1412:Military
1407:Jumpsuit
1402:Jodhpuri
1380:academic
1367:uniforms
1337:Slim-fit
1325:hotpants
1275:Overalls
1270:Jodhpurs
1212:Trousers
1165:guernsey
1160:cardigan
1101:tube top
1091:crop top
983:Neckwear
958:Kerchief
899:baseball
881:Headwear
870:Timeline
855:Industry
838:Clothing
322:Pantsuit
291:See also
283:Material
2825:Fursuit
2791:Fashion
2764:Costume
2747:Related
2687:Western
2608:Handbag
2593:Glasses
2588:Gaiters
2558:Armband
2507:Legwear
2497:Sneaker
2492:Slipper
2439:Wetsuit
2384:Burkini
2361:Pajamas
2245:Norfolk
2235:leather
2200:Cut-off
2146:Cagoule
2141:Blouson
2107:morning
2080:smoking
2053:bekishe
2010:Paletot
1810:Panties
1719:Rah-rah
1714:Prairie
1611:Wedding
1596:Prairie
1574:Evening
1525:Dresses
1461:cassock
1427:service
1330:running
1315:dolphin
1310:dycling
1305:Bermuda
1280:Palazzo
1260:Lowrise
1225:Bondage
1195:twinset
1155:Sweater
1108:Cycling
1021:Necktie
936:homburg
850:History
229:buttons
223:Sleeves
217:hacking
182:Pockets
129:pointed
125:stepped
70:History
54:, is a
2734:Casual
2695:Formal
2663:Wallet
2618:Livery
2598:Gloves
2540:Tights
2525:Garter
2482:Sandal
2434:Trunks
2379:Bikini
2272:Poncho
2257:Jerkin
2250:safari
2225:goggle
2220:flight
2210:Jacket
2195:Coatee
2168:Mantle
2085:sports
2075:Blazer
1993:Ulster
1988:Trench
1976:Riding
1944:Duster
1939:Duffel
1934:Covert
1845:briefs
1795:Diaper
1788:Bottom
1724:Sarong
1709:Pencil
1684:A-line
1676:Skirts
1647:Sheath
1637:Jumper
1625:Casual
1513:scrubs
1503:hazmat
1483:Prison
1478:School
1439:combat
1432:sailor
1300:Shorts
1245:Formal
1175:jersey
1170:hoodie
1133:Henley
1118:Mantle
1081:Blouse
1063:Tippet
1046:school
1041:kipper
996:Choker
968:Turban
948:Helmet
931:fedora
926:bowler
921:boater
307:Tuxedo
297:Blazer
113:Lapels
97:tuxedo
56:jacket
2818:types
2668:Watch
2643:Spats
2414:Sling
2294:Shawl
2267:Parka
2205:Gilet
2178:royal
2129:Apron
2122:Other
2102:dress
2058:rekel
2003:opera
1998:Cloak
1966:Greca
1897:Coats
1883:Teddy
1825:Thong
1729:Skort
1699:Men's
1694:Denim
1632:House
1591:Plain
1530:gowns
1508:space
1385:court
1362:Suits
1265:Jeans
1240:Chaps
1235:Cargo
1230:Capri
1185:shrug
1128:dress
1123:Shirt
1113:Kurta
1058:Scarf
1051:stock
1026:ascot
991:Bands
889:Beret
692:ch. 2
248:Vents
194:besom
161:notch
119:Lapel
91:Most
2835:Laws
2638:Sash
2623:Muff
2563:Belt
2515:Sock
2487:Shoe
2457:Boot
2277:Robe
2215:down
2151:Cape
2090:Teba
2020:Polo
1856:Full
1820:Slip
1752:and
1739:Wrap
1734:Tutu
1657:Slip
1616:Wrap
1528:and
1422:mess
1417:full
1397:Folk
1295:Phat
1138:polo
1073:Tops
1031:bolo
973:Veil
963:Mask
953:Hood
909:knit
904:flat
269:tail
265:vent
165:peak
64:suit
2015:Pea
1924:Car
1900:and
1769:Bra
1762:Top
1364:and
1320:gym
1036:bow
941:top
916:Hat
894:Cap
236:or
163:or
58:in
50:or
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766:.
731:.
683:^
655:.
621:.
535:.
511:.
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415:.
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367:.
343:.
263:A
219:.
204:.
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46:,
38:A
1148:T
830:e
823:t
816:v
800:.
776:.
743:.
716:.
665:.
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606:.
545:.
521:.
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