Knowledge (XXG)

Pattern (sewing)

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407: 436:, usually by computer. A marker is an arrangement of all of the pattern pieces over the area of the fabric to be cut that minimizes fabric waste while maintaining the desired grainlines. It's sort of like a pattern of patterns from which all pieces will be cut. The marker is then laid on top of the layers of fabric and cut. Commercial markers often include multiple sets of patterns for popular sizes. For example: one set of size Small, two sets of size Medium and one set of size Large. Once the style has been sold and delivered to stores – and if it proves to be quite popular – the pattern of this style will itself become a block, with subsequent generations of patterns developed from it. 39: 641: 555:. They are also available over the Internet as downloadable files. Home sewers can print the patterns at home or take the electronic file to a business that does copying and printing. Many pattern companies distribute sewing patterns as electronic files as an alternative to, or in place of, pre-printed packets, which the home sewer can print at home or take to a local copyshop, as they include large format printing versions. Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles, and sewing skill levels, to meet the needs of consumers. 113: 625: 154: 601: 422:, punched with a hole and stored by hanging with a special hook. The pattern is first checked for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics and the resulting garment is fit-tested. Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small production run of selling samples is made and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets. If the style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry specific 613: 482: 31: 277:
pattern. They may decide to tailor or adjust a pattern to improve the fit or style for the garment wearer by using French curves, hip curves, and cutting or folding on straight edges. There are alternate methods of adjusting a pattern, either directly on flat pattern pieces from the wearer's measurements, using a pre-draped personalized sloper, or using draping methods on a dress form with inexpensive fabrics like muslin.
47: 386:, or how the pattern should be aligned with the fabric. The arrow is meant to be aligned parallel to the straight grain of the fabric. A long arrow with arrowheads at both ends indicates that either of two orientations is possible. An arrow with one head probably indicates that the fabric has a direction to it which needs to be considered, such as a pattern which should face up when the wearer is standing. 1793: 495: 474: 1780: 243:, the fabric outline and markings will be then transferred onto a paper pattern, or the fabric itself will be used as the pattern. Designers drafting a sculpted evening gown or dress which uses a lot of fabric--typically cut on the bias--will use the draping technique, as it is very difficult to achieve this with a flat pattern. This method is also used for 143:, specialize in selling pre-graded patterns directly to consumers who will sew the patterns at home. These patterns are usually printed on tissue paper and include multiple sizes that overlap each other. An illustrated instruction sheet for use and assembly of the item is usually included. The pattern may include multiple style options in one package. 558:
The majority of modern-day home sewing patterns contain multiple sizes in one pattern. Once a pattern is removed from a package, you can either cut the pattern based on the size you will be making or you can preserve the pattern by tracing it. The pattern is traced onto fabric using one of several
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is the process of shrinking or enlarging a finished pattern to accommodate it to people of different sizes. Grading rules determine how patterns increase or decrease to create different sizes. Fabric type also influences pattern grading standards. The cost of pattern grading is incomplete without
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Mass market patterns are made standardized, so store-bought patterns fit most people well. Experienced dressmakers can adjust standard patterns to better fit any body shape. A sewer may choose a standard size (usually from the wearer's bust measurement) that has been pre-graded on a purchased
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is moved over the pattern outlines, transferring the markings onto the fabric with ink that is removable by erasing or washing. In another method, tracing paper is laid directly over a purchased pattern, and the pieces are traced. The pieces are cut, then the tracing paper is pinned and/or
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After a paper/fabric pattern is completed, very often patternmakers digitize their patterns for archiving and vendor communication purposes. The previous standard for digitizing was the digitizing tablet. Nowadays, automatic options such as scanners and camera systems are available.
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in German, the final sloper can be used to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on. The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear; menswear rarely involves draping.
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lines is done. After these steps have been followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for production. When the manufacturing company is ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given pattern piece are arranged into a
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program. There are a wide variety of pattern making and grading/marker making programs, each with their own features. Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in laying
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Matched points, especially for long or curving seams or seams with ease. For example, the Armscye will usually be notched at the point where ease should begin to be added to the sleeve cap. There is usually no ease through the
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Each pattern manufacturer has their own size ranges. A distinction is made between a basic pattern, a first pattern, and a production pattern. Patternmakers grade the first cuts to the desired size with the aid of CAD software
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Some dress forms are adjustable to match the wearer's unique measurements, and the muslin is fit around the form accordingly. By taking it in or letting it out, a smaller or larger fit can be made from the original pattern.
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or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and pattern development from the original sloper). Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called
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tailors), originally selling hand-drawn patterns for men's and boys' clothing. In 1866, Butterick added patterns for women's clothing, which remains the heart of the home sewing pattern market today.
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to mark the pattern. Usually, flat patterning begins with the creation of a "sloper" or "block" pattern: a simple, fitted garment made to the wearer's measurements. For women, this will usually be a
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The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers, curves, and straight-edges. A pattern maker would also use various tools such as a
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to the fabric. The fabric can then be cut to match the outlines on the tracing paper. Vintage patterns may come with small holes pre-punched into the pattern paper. These are for creating
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Besides illustrating the finished garment, pattern envelopes typically include charts for sizing, the number of pieces included in a pattern, and suggested fabrics and necessary sewing
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Parametric pattern drafting implies using a program algorithm to draft patterns for every individual size from scratch, using size measurements, variables and geometric objects.
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Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker. In
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and other adjustments are made. This provides the sewer with measurements to use as a guideline for marking the patterns and cutting the fabric for the finished garment.
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Sewing patterns typically include standard symbols and marks that guide the cutter and/or sewer in cutting and assembling the pieces of the pattern. Patterns may use:
1833: 406: 292:. The sewer cuts the pieces using the same method that they will use for the actual garment, according to a pattern. The pieces are then fit together and 150:, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes. 600: 414:
The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most closely resembles the designer's vision. Patterns are cut of
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Many patterns will also have full outlines for some features, like for a patch pocket, making it easier to visualize how things go together.
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if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word
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Dot, triangle, or square symbols, to provide "match points" for adjoining pattern pieces, similar to putting puzzle pieces together
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Creating a sample from canvas is another method of making patterns. Canvas fabric is inexpensive, not elastic and made from
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methods. In one method, tracing paper with transferable ink on one side is placed between the pattern and the fabric. A
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A sewer grades a pattern with red ink, to match measurements tailored to the person who will wear the garment.
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invented the commercially produced graded home sewing pattern in 1863 (based on grading systems used by
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Centerlines and other lines important to the fit like the waistline, hip, breast, shoulder tip, etc.
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Three patterns for pants (2022) Pattern making is taught on a scale of 1:4, to conserve paper.
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Double lines indicating where the pattern may be lengthened or shortened for a different fit
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Guido Hofenbitzer: Maßschnitte und Passform – Schnittkonstruktion für Damenmode: Band 2
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The draping method involves creating a mock-up pattern made of a strong fabric (such as
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Template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out
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and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and
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with thread to mark a pattern on fabric before cutting the fabric
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Pocket placement, or the placement of other details like trimming
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before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of
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Corners, as they are stitched, i.e. without seam allowances
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typically employs one of two methods to create a pattern.
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A long arrow, drawn on top of the pattern, to indicate:
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The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing
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Parker, Theresa (2021). "Ch. 5: The Draping Process".
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Camp, Carole Ann (2011). "3: Sewing from a pattern".
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sloper. The final sloper pattern is usually made of
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(not all patterns include allowances) 912:Teach Yourself VISUALLY Fashion Sewing 440:Standard designing and adjusting tools 346:Fold point for folded hems and facings 1834:History of clothing (Western fashion) 196:, and for men, an upper sloper and a 7: 893:, 1998, Apparel Technical Services, 517:adding citations to reliable sources 50:Fitting a nettle/canvas-fabric on a 355:Circular holes, perhaps made by an 116:Student tracing pattern onto fabric 25: 1791: 1778: 862:. IDG Books Worldwide. pp.  639: 623: 611: 599: 493: 477:Home tissue paper sewing pattern 359:or circular punch, to indicate: 128:of a finished pattern is called 120:A sloper pattern, also called a 504:needs additional citations for 259:after purchase, if necessary. 1: 101:, but it can also be written 308:considering marker making. 485:Digital home sewing pattern 312:Parametric pattern drafting 1855: 773:Draping for Fashion Design 668:History of sewing patterns 73:from which the parts of a 1774: 410:Marker-making by computer 320:Standard pattern symbols 135:Several companies, like 375:Buttonholes and buttons 1707:Frister & Rossmann 1399:Hook-and-loop fastener 935:Veblen, Sarah (2012). 854:Saunders, Jan (1999). 829:Veblen, Sarah (2012). 486: 478: 411: 158: 117: 54: 43: 35: 1677:Barthélemy Thimonnier 726:Tilly and the Buttons 484: 476: 409: 253:computer-aided design 156: 115: 49: 41: 33: 1787:at Wikimedia Commons 889:Fasanella, Kathleen 693:Clothing terminology 618:Tracing of a pattern 513:improve this article 1798:Clothing portal 1062:Fabric tube turning 961:"Butterick History" 804:Whitt, Kay (2010). 701:Butterick / McCalls 42:Storage of patterns 1839:History of fashion 858:Sewing for Dummies 697:Pattern companies 583:Ebenezer Butterick 487: 479: 412: 263:Pattern digitizing 159: 118: 55: 44: 36: 1824:Sizes in clothing 1811: 1810: 1803:Glossary of terms 1783:Media related to 1770: 1769: 1752:Tape edge machine 1171:Embroidery stitch 783:978-1-78500-954-9 776:. 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Retrieved 772: 765: 752: 663:French curve 581: 574: 557: 549:tissue paper 546: 531: 522: 511:Please help 506:verification 503: 433: 413: 397: 323: 315: 303: 283: 279: 275: 266: 249: 230: 224: 220: 214: 172: 168:patternmaker 165: 145: 134: 121: 119: 106: 102: 98: 66: 56: 1593:Haberdasher 1511:Seam ripper 1343:Self-fabric 1318:Interfacing 1298:Collar stay 1254:Felled seam 1196:Pick stitch 1161:Coverstitch 525:August 2021 460:Dress forms 192:and narrow 1818:Categories 1692:Elias Howe 1653:Simplicity 1588:Dressmaker 1496:Pincushion 1476:Needlecase 1471:Dress form 1430:Grain/bias 1384:Buttonhole 1353:Twill tape 1264:Style line 1191:Pad stitch 1181:Lockstitch 1146:Buttonhole 1126:Backstitch 1030:Techniques 899:0966320840 873:076455137X 744:References 721:Simplicity 688:Dressmaker 290:dress form 286:Urticaceae 208:, without 206:paperboard 187:jewel-neck 141:Simplicity 91:paperboard 52:dress form 1643:Clothkits 1633:Butterick 1603:Silkwoman 1568:Suppliers 1423:Materials 1293:Bias tape 1226:Topstitch 1201:Rantering 1176:Hemstitch 965:Butterick 789:March 28, 711:Clothkits 630:Sewing a 587:Victorian 445:Hip curve 384:Grainline 350:underarm. 202:cardboard 137:Butterick 95:cardboard 1732:New Home 1663:Machines 1648:McCall's 1625:Patterns 1506:Scissors 1367:Closures 1348:Soutache 1338:Rickrack 1249:Neckline 1216:Stoating 1186:Overlock 1131:Bar tack 1112:Stitches 1102:Shirring 975:26 March 652:See also 448:L-Square 223:(US) or 219:(UK) or 71:template 1687:Brother 1682:Bernina 1541:Thimble 1435:Selvage 1358:Wrights 1308:Galloon 1303:Elastic 1277:Notions 1211:Sashiko 1206:Running 1136:Blanket 1047:Darning 1037:Basting 736:Wiksten 593:Gallery 577:notions 416:oak tag 329:Notches 245:collars 221:muslins 175:notcher 75:garment 69:is the 67:pattern 1829:Sewing 1785:Sewing 1747:Singer 1742:Sewmor 1727:Merrow 1712:Janome 1702:Feiyue 1608:Tailor 1598:Mercer 1583:Draper 1564:Trades 1466:Bobbin 1445:Thread 1414:Zipper 1379:Button 1374:Buckle 1333:Ruffle 1328:Piping 1231:Zigzag 1087:Gusset 1072:Gather 1023:Sewing 943:  918:  897:  870:  837:  812:  780:  683:Tailor 673:Sewing 566:basted 434:marker 257:tailor 237:muslin 233:calico 225:Nessel 216:toiles 190:bodice 181:, and 59:sewing 1762:White 1737:Pfaff 1717:Jones 1638:Burda 1459:Tools 1404:Shank 1241:Seams 1097:Pleat 1077:Godet 731:Vogue 706:Burda 420:paper 294:darts 198:pants 194:skirt 179:drill 87:paper 79:woven 1722:Juki 1697:Elna 1668:list 1450:Yarn 1409:Snap 1389:Frog 1282:Trim 1221:Tack 1117:list 1052:Ease 977:2019 941:ISBN 916:ISBN 895:ISBN 868:ISBN 864:51–2 835:ISBN 810:ISBN 791:2024 778:ISBN 658:Ease 553:trim 429:seam 366:apex 364:dart 241:form 139:and 126:size 65:, a 61:and 1491:Pin 1042:Cut 515:by 424:CAD 357:awl 204:or 183:awl 105:or 93:or 81:or 57:In 1820:: 963:. 882:^ 866:. 362:A 247:. 177:, 166:A 132:. 109:. 1670:) 1666:( 1119:) 1115:( 1015:e 1008:t 1001:v 979:. 949:. 924:. 876:. 843:. 818:. 793:. 538:) 532:( 527:) 523:( 509:. 251:( 20:)

Index

Pattern cutting



dress form
sewing
fashion design
template
garment
woven
knitted fabrics
paper
paperboard
cardboard

size
pattern grading
Butterick
Simplicity
bespoke clothing

patternmaker
notcher
drill
awl
jewel-neck
bodice
skirt
pants
cardboard

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