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other purposes, such as building an anchor or use in natural protection. The softer sling of an alpine draw may be considered superior to the stiffer dogbone of most quick draws as it causes less perturbation of traditional protection and may reduce the chance of the rope unclipping itself from the carabiner.
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The methods by which a quickdraw maintains gate orientation vary. The most popular method involves the use of an elastic polymer band around the outside of the point of connection between the carabiner and the semi-rigid material. The elastic band should only be installed on the rope-end, and not on
134:
While historically the orientation of the gates varied, it is now generally recommended that both gates face the same direction, and that the quickdraw is clipped with both gates facing away from the climber's path. This lessens the chances of the carabiner getting "nose-hooked" and breaking, or of
99:
connected by a semi-rigid material (sometimes called the "dogbone"). One carabiner has a straight gate and connects to an anchoring device. The other carabiner is for the climbing rope, and uses a bent gate. Quickdraws are manufactured with either a solid carabiner gate or a wire carabiner gate for
152:
Alpine quick draws feature long slings wrapped or folded multiple times to save space on a climbers harness in place of a dogbone. Alpine draws are often used to extend pieces of protection and reduce rope drag but may also be attached to the harness simply as a convenient way to store slings for
143:
A permadraw is a quickdraw that is made from steel cable that has steel carabiners and remains permanently attached to the bolts. Developed in places such as Rifle
Mountain Park in Colorado as a safer alternative; steel is much harder-wearing than the aluminum used in normal quickdraws. In
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These two attributes differentiate a quickdraw from other types of runners. These two attributes are what makes this special type of runner "quick" to "draw". If either of these two elements is missing the runner is not a "quickdraw".
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The carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel. ... The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no STRING). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with STRING).
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The material that connects the 2 carabiners is semi-rigid. It is not as flexible as an open loop of webbing. This rigidity facilitates quicker clipping to an anchoring device.
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safer to keep the gates facing the same way ... it's safest to keep the bottom carabiner fixed to the QD's webbing with tape or a rubber O-ring, but not the top biner
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the anchor end. The elastic band is not a load-bearing element, and the carabiner must pass through the dogbone to hold body weight. Incorrect assembly has led to
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A quickdraw is a specific type of runner. Runners are used by rock and ice climbers to extend the distance between an anchoring device and the rope.
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The gate (on the carabiner that clips to a rope) is held in a specific orientation that facilitates quicker clipping to a rope.
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A quickdraw is differentiated from a simple open loop of webbing with 2 carabiners on it by the following attributes:
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In most situations ... the gates of both carabiners should face away from the direction of travel of the climber.
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The principle is that the gates must always be pointing in the opposite direction to the climbing route
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addition, unlike quickdraws, climbers don't need to retrieve the permadraws at the end of a climb.
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Two quickdraws. The upper has a solid bent gate for the rope and the lower a wire gate for it.
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Rock climbing : technique, equipment, safety, with an introduction to indoor climbing
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364:"Why both snappers should point to the same side, away from climbing direction."
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This article is about the climbing equipment. For other uses, see
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either carabiner unclipping, during a fall or due to rope drag.
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Piece of climbing equipment used by rock and ice climbers
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Heise-Flecken, Detlef; Flecken, Gabi (28 March 2016).
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Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
1898:
International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
443:. No. September 2023. Sydney Rockclimbing Club.
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347:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (
414:"Essential Skills: The Alpine Quickdraw"
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386:Bisharat, Andrew (16 September 2014).
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458:How to select Quickdraws for Climbing
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388:"Blue Steel: A Permadraw Solution"
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439:"Unclipping (and cams failing)".
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833:IFSC World Championships winners
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316:. Aachen, Germany. p. 119.
259:Van Leuven, Chris (2014-06-27).
205:(1 ed.). Stackpole Books.
72:climbers to allow the climbing
1831:British Mountaineering Council
362:Michaël Andries (2013-07-11),
1:
197:Hattingh, Garth (July 1998).
293:"Metolius carabiners manual"
95:A quickdraw consists of two
174:"Prevent Quickdraw Failure"
2013:
32:Quickdraw (disambiguation)
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1731:Mountain Equipment Co-op
1866:South Tyrol Alpine Club
1661:Eastern Mountain Sports
1527:Canadian Alpine Journal
1520:American Alpine Journal
783:Roof and tunnel hacking
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201:The Climber's Handbook
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1721:Marmot Mountain Works
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471:at Wikimedia Commons
412:Macdonald, Dougald.
100:its lighter weight.
1836:Club Alpin Français
1210:Mountaineering boot
823:Piolet d'Or winners
1992:Climbing equipment
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261:"Face Those Gates"
129:at least one death
62:climbing equipment
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1776:Wild Country
1771:Therm-a-Rest
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1587:The Alpinist
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1466:Campus board
1421:First ascent
1165:Ice and snow
1110:
962:Belay device
813:Alpine clubs
773:Ropes course
686:Alpine style
440:
434:
422:. Retrieved
418:Climbing.com
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395:. Retrieved
392:EveningSends
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371:, retrieved
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82:bolt anchors
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1970:WikiProject
1806:Alpine Club
1801:Access Fund
1711:Lowe Alpine
1706:La Sportiva
1443:Fall factor
1336:Self-arrest
1312:Redpointing
1235:Snow anchor
989:Boulder mat
938:Daisy chain
908:Terminology
899:Terminology
778:Rooftopping
720:Hillwalking
708:Dry-tooling
674:Via ferrata
587:Traditional
565:Competition
546:Multi-pitch
529:Disciplines
424:10 November
148:Alpine draw
1986:Categories
1594:El Capitan
1358:Traversing
1307:Onsighting
1287:Glissading
1270:Dülfersitz
1265:Australian
1228:Transeiver
1173:Alpenstock
1106:Portaledge
1094:Copperhead
1033:Descenders
967:Auto belay
758:Commercial
738:Buildering
715:Scrambling
625:Rock types
616:Top roping
553:Bouldering
469:Quickdraws
373:2018-08-14
275:2018-08-14
239:2018-08-14
183:2018-08-14
157:References
97:carabiners
78:protection
1746:Patagonia
1629:Companies
1615:Hard Grit
1608:Free Solo
1476:MoonBoard
1471:Hangboard
1457:Training
1406:Guidebook
1381:Ape index
1346:Rope team
1260:Abseiling
1205:Ice screw
1111:Quickdraw
994:Carabiner
916:Equipment
894:Technique
860:Equipment
743:Canyoning
681:Himalayan
609:Rope solo
599:Free solo
420:. Outside
343:cite book
332:903189054
234:Petzl USA
139:Permadraw
84:or other
54:quickdraw
18:Permadraw
1946:Category
1793:National
1691:JanSport
1666:Five Ten
1541:Desnivel
1534:Climbing
1513:Alpinist
1438:Exposure
1416:Chipping
1363:Tyrolean
1353:Spotting
1324:Crevasse
1302:Flashing
1292:Jumaring
1277:Belaying
1240:Snowshoe
1198:Ice tool
1188:Crampons
1038:Figure-8
950:Ascender
818:Climbers
558:Highball
541:Big wall
506:Climbing
397:10 March
80:such as
64:used by
58:extender
1958:Commons
1912:(UIMLA)
1906:(UIAGM)
1297:Leading
1214:Rescue
1193:Ice axe
1143:Camalot
1077:Lanyard
1060:Skyhook
1045:Harness
1016:Dynamic
999:Maillon
972:Glasses
853:Everest
844:Deaths
763:Parkour
441:Thrutch
368:YouTube
265:Spadout
90:leading
1934:Portal
1900:(UIAA)
1894:(IFSC)
1726:Millet
1716:Mammut
1681:Grivel
1651:Deuter
1569:Summit
1453:Guides
1448:Grades
1319:Rescue
1253:Action
1155:Tricam
1121:Grigri
1067:Hammer
1021:Static
977:Gloves
945:Anchor
865:Brands
669:Alpine
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88:while
1751:Petzl
1701:Kelty
1491:Media
1426:Pitch
1391:Clean
1374:Other
1223:RECCO
1150:Shoes
1138:SLCDs
1133:Sling
1101:Piton
1050:Hooks
1028:Chalk
955:Croll
933:Aider
870:Knots
806:Lists
788:Slide
753:Grass
748:Crane
731:Other
703:Mixed
632:Crack
582:Sport
570:Speed
513:Types
296:(PDF)
1641:CAMP
1431:Topo
1401:Beta
1329:Self
1126:Revo
1116:SLDs
1055:Fifi
1011:Cord
984:Bolt
925:Rock
793:Tree
768:Pole
647:Slab
642:Roof
637:Face
594:Solo
577:Free
426:2023
399:2023
349:link
328:OCLC
318:ISBN
207:ISBN
74:rope
68:and
66:rock
1761:REI
1756:Rab
1089:Nut
1082:PAC
1072:Hex
698:Ice
536:Aid
104:Use
70:ice
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