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Peter Hackett (mountaineer)

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115:. At 7,620 m (25,000 ft), while sleeping in his tent without supplementary oxygen, he had a lively hallucination that John West, the expedition leader, was in his tent, and had brought an oxygen bottle with which he filled up the tent. On the way to the summit, he stood on a ledge and "was sure that if I had jumped off from that point, I could have flown. I had this feeling that somehow spirits would come and, and just support me and fly me around the mountains and I could see all these wonderful places down below and visit friends and just get great views of all the mountains." He also said that hypoxia was probably to blame for the fall on the Hillary Step, and the decision-making process that led to his fall. 108:, and after a drop of 10–15 ft (3.0–4.6 m) he found himself hanging upside down with his right boot, snagged on some rock, holding him up. With his ice axe he righted himself and then found an old rope, still fixed, which he used to pull himself up. He fell a second time, but got up again and descended a thousand feet, where he found Pizzo waiting for him. Together, in the dark, they safely got to Camp 5, on the South Col. 104:. He was slated to try for the summit as the second of two groups on October 24, 1981; around noon, Chris Pizzo and Young Tenzing had reached the summit, with Pizzo doing various measurements and taking samples of his own breath for later research. Three hours later Hackett was observed approaching the summit, which he reached at 4 pm. On the descent he fell through a layer of snow at the 74:. In 1981, as a member of the American Research Expedition, he helped set up a "well-equipped" lab at 5,180 m (17,000 ft)) and a smaller lab at 6,300 m (20,700 ft). In 1982, he and Bill Mills started a rescue clinic and lab on 82:), where again they treated patients with altitude sickness and gathered information. Hackett has also published on drug use among Everest climbers; his 2016 study, co-authored with Andrew Luks, Colin Grissom, and Luanne Freer and published in 30:
to the top on October 24, 1981. He studies the effect of altitude on human physiology, and is the founder of a medical rescue camp on Everest and a rescue clinic and lab on
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In 1973, Hackett was a co-founder of the Himalayan Rescue Association. It established a clinic near
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is an American mountaineer and medical doctor. He is the third person to have summited
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in Seattle. By 2009, he was the director of the Institute for Altitude Medicine in
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Hackett was a member of the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition led by
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in Alaska, at 4,267 m (14,000 ft) (funded by the US Army and the
234: 34:, and the director of the Institute for Altitude Medicine in Colorado. 217:"Medication Use Among Mount Everest Climbers: Practice and Attitudes" 92:, "while present on the mountain, isn't a serious problem". 118:
Hackett was the third person to summit Everest solo, after
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Luks, A. M.; Grissom, C.; Freer, L.; Hackett, P. (2016).
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In 2000, Peter Hackett was an emergency physician in
54:, and a professor at the School of Medicine at the 309:; Harris, David E.; Zeman, Ellen J., eds. (2005). 181:"Higher Education: Should This Kid Climb Everest?" 8: 111:Hackett described some of the effects of 312:Going Higher: Oxygen, Man, and Mountains 258:"How Many People Use Drugs on Everest?" 256:Schaffer, Grayson (November 11, 2016). 140: 146: 144: 46:, and a Professor of Medicine at the 7: 222:High Altitude Medicine & Biology 85:High Altitude Medicine & Biology 16:American physician and mountaineer 14: 377:High-altitude medicine physicians 367:20th-century American physicians 179:Broudy, Berne (September 2009). 122:(1978, from the South side) and 90:performance-enhancing substances 26:in a solo ascent, climbing from 1: 126:(1980, from the North side). 88:, suggested that the use of 393: 372:American mountain climbers 335:Everest: The Testing Place 315:. The Mountaineers Books. 337:. New York: McGraw-Hill. 48:University of Washington 44:Grand Junction, Colorado 56:University of Colorado 235:10.1089/ham.2016.0077 80:National Park Service 307:Houston, Charles S. 205:Houston et al. 184. 185:Backpacker Magazine 52:Telluride, Colorado 96:Everest expedition 72:mountain sickness 68:Everest Base Camp 384: 348: 326: 293: 290: 284: 281: 275: 274: 272: 270: 253: 247: 246: 212: 206: 203: 197: 196: 194: 192: 176: 170: 169: 167: 165: 148: 124:Reinhold Messner 62:Medical research 20:Peter H. Hackett 392: 391: 387: 386: 385: 383: 382: 381: 352: 351: 345: 329: 323: 305: 302: 297: 296: 291: 287: 282: 278: 268: 266: 255: 254: 250: 214: 213: 209: 204: 200: 190: 188: 178: 177: 173: 163: 161: 160:. November 2000 152:"Peter Hackett" 150: 149: 142: 137: 132: 98: 64: 40: 17: 12: 11: 5: 390: 388: 380: 379: 374: 369: 364: 354: 353: 350: 349: 343: 327: 321: 301: 298: 295: 294: 285: 276: 248: 229:(4): 315–322. 207: 198: 171: 139: 138: 136: 133: 131: 128: 97: 94: 63: 60: 39: 36: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 389: 378: 375: 373: 370: 368: 365: 363: 362:Living people 360: 359: 357: 346: 340: 336: 332: 331:West, John B. 328: 324: 322:9781594851797 318: 314: 313: 308: 304: 303: 299: 289: 286: 280: 277: 265: 264: 259: 252: 249: 244: 240: 236: 232: 228: 224: 223: 218: 211: 208: 202: 199: 186: 182: 175: 172: 159: 158: 153: 147: 145: 141: 134: 129: 127: 125: 121: 116: 114: 109: 107: 103: 95: 93: 91: 87: 86: 81: 77: 73: 69: 61: 59: 57: 53: 49: 45: 37: 35: 33: 29: 25: 24:Mount Everest 21: 334: 311: 300:Bibliography 288: 279: 269:December 28, 267:. Retrieved 261: 251: 226: 220: 210: 201: 191:December 29, 189:. Retrieved 184: 174: 164:November 29, 162:. Retrieved 155: 120:Franz Oppurg 117: 110: 106:Hillary Step 102:John B. West 99: 83: 76:Mount Denali 65: 41: 32:Mount Denali 19: 18: 356:Categories 344:0070695024 130:References 292:West 143. 283:West 1-4. 38:Biography 28:South Col 333:(1985). 243:27763796 263:Outside 187:: 62–83 113:hypoxia 341:  319:  241:  135:Notes 339:ISBN 317:ISBN 271:2021 239:PMID 193:2021 166:2021 157:NOVA 231:doi 358:: 260:. 237:. 227:17 225:. 219:. 183:. 154:. 143:^ 58:. 347:. 325:. 273:. 245:. 233:: 195:. 168:.

Index

Mount Everest
South Col
Mount Denali
Grand Junction, Colorado
University of Washington
Telluride, Colorado
University of Colorado
Everest Base Camp
mountain sickness
Mount Denali
National Park Service
High Altitude Medicine & Biology
performance-enhancing substances
John B. West
Hillary Step
hypoxia
Franz Oppurg
Reinhold Messner


"Peter Hackett"
NOVA
"Higher Education: Should This Kid Climb Everest?"
"Medication Use Among Mount Everest Climbers: Practice and Attitudes"
High Altitude Medicine & Biology
doi
10.1089/ham.2016.0077
PMID
27763796
"How Many People Use Drugs on Everest?"

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