Knowledge (XXG)

Suit jacket

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120:), or shawl. Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are the most common of the three and are usually only found on single-breasted jackets. They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree 'notch' at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Peaked lapels have sharp edges which point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels may be found on single breasted jackets as well. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits. 242: 98:
button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.
185:) pockets. The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on 264:, and, for practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British. 20: 2857: 140: 124: 132: 229:(U.S.). Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit. A "cuffed sleeve" has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as 220:
on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature
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In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now
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can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural
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jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to
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The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw
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Since 1860, all the components of the suit began to be sewn from a uniform fabric. Today, jackets come in different lengths, but the classic is one in which the jacket covers the buttocks, the sleeves reach the wrist, and the cuff of the shirt extends out a couple of centimeters from under the
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seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while
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The 1870s saw the birth of the suit, which at first was met with great skepticism and viewed primarily as leisure wear. In particular, which came into fashion in the late 1870s, a suit in a large plaid with rolled to the knee pants.
167:, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left. 63:
The jacket was originally a work jacket that came into fashion due to the French Revolution. It was popular among sailors, and in the 19th century it became a common item of clothing for sports and recreation.
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Jackets are usually made of woolen fabric, but other fabrics such as cotton, linen, and velvet are also available. Tweed is widely used in the United Kingdom.
585: 858: 260:) of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a 181:
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted (
426:"1870s Hodgepodge: His and Hers Dressing Rooms, Bathing, a Bride's Trousseau, Rules of Victorian Mourning, and Many Fashion Illustrations" 2818: 817: 838: 2774: 544:
Druesdow (1990). p. vi. "...for often the difference in style from season to season was in the distance between buttons..."
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dinner jackets often have only one button). It is rare to find a suit jacket with more than four buttons, although
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suit jackets have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual (except that
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mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the
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A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a
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The Nu-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes Making (1926).
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Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four
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Archived from 474:"Custom tailor in Los Angeles" 1: 268:traditionally have no vents. 742:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172 692:Mahon, Thomas (2007-01-18). 640:Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07). 606:Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29). 757:www.onlineclothingstudy.com 571:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 16 562:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 14 2897: 2829:List of individual dresses 248:; US. Dept. of Agriculture 174: 105: 76:Single and double-breasted 2852: 1899: 833: 630:Flusser (2002). pp. 82–85 454:fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu 334:www.gentlemansgazette.com 246:Sewing Menswear--Jackets 642:"What's in your lapel?" 522:"Victorian Era Fashion" 478:patternmaker-tailor.net 2834:Reconstructed clothing 382:www.premieremanche.com 249: 144: 136: 128: 72:sleeve of the jacket. 24: 553:Flusser (2002). p. 83 358:www.givemehistory.com 244: 163:, intended to hold a 142: 134: 126: 22: 2775:Environmental impact 694:"Real cuff holes..." 227:working button holes 2862:Clothing portal 646:A Suitable Wardrobe 159:Lapels also have a 250: 145: 137: 129: 51:that is part of a 25: 2868: 2867: 2839:Right to clothing 2763:Halloween costume 2731: 2730: 2706:black lounge suit 2306: 2305: 2106: 2105: 1880: 1879: 1659: 1658: 781:home.onehowto.com 502:vintagedancer.com 2888: 2860: 2859: 2844:Vintage clothing 2672: 2617:Pocket protector 1901: 1897: 1857:Bodysuit, infant 1748: 1529:formal, informal 1524: 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Retrieved 333: 324: 275: 262:morning coat 257: 251: 245: 226: 222: 221:is called a 215: 202: 195: 189:, such as a 182: 180: 158: 153: 149: 146: 135:peaked lapel 117: 113: 111: 79: 70: 66: 62: 40: 36: 32: 28: 26: 2701:Semi-formal 2667:Dress codes 2557:Boutonnière 2539:Accessories 2418:Swim diaper 2413:Swim briefs 2378:Boardshorts 2298:Windbreaker 2059:Suit jacket 2054:Mess jacket 1948:Guards Coat 1867:See-through 1631:Romper suit 1005:Neck gaiter 1000:Neckerchief 854:Terminology 697:English Cut 612:English Cut 231:frock coats 177:Coat pocket 165:boutonnière 143:shawl lapel 116:), peaked ( 93:waistline. 37:lounge coat 29:suit jacket 2642:Suspenders 2637:Sunglasses 2572:Cummerbund 2562:Coin purse 2466:Flip-flops 2461:Dress shoe 2456:Dress boot 2451:Court shoe 2398:Rash guard 2345:Nightshirt 2219:Harrington 2177:pellegrina 2037:Frock coat 2030:Suit coats 2019:Mackintosh 1960:Over-frock 1819:Underpants 1768:Undershirt 1641:Shirtdress 1482:boilersuit 1379:diplomatic 1341:Yoga pants 1331:Sweatpants 1244:High water 1239:Go-to-hell 1132:sleeveless 1085:halterneck 1075:cache-cœur 995:Lavallière 849:Technology 786:2024-08-07 762:2024-08-07 729:2009-02-14 702:2008-10-26 651:2008-09-24 617:2008-09-20 592:2017-09-26 531:2024-08-07 507:2024-08-07 483:2024-08-07 459:2024-08-07 435:2024-08-07 411:2024-08-07 387:2024-08-07 363:2024-08-07 339:2024-08-07 317:References 187:formalwear 161:buttonhole 90:zoot suits 2711:black tie 2694:white tie 2602:Jewellery 2519:Pantyhose 2393:One-piece 2340:Nightgown 2312:Nightwear 2150:Inverness 2145:ferraiolo 1970:shadbelly 1938:Greatcoat 1905:Overcoats 1892:outerwear 1738:Underwear 1693:Miniskirt 1678:Ballerina 1595:Strapless 1573:debutante 1568:ball gown 1546:Coatdress 1487:cleanroom 1445:Religious 1440:Political 1336:Windpants 1274:Parachute 1191:Waistcoat 1169:polo neck 666:Lesson 33 41:suit coat 2875:Category 2718:Informal 2647:Umbrella 2592:Headband 2567:Cufflink 2524:Stocking 2509:Hold-ups 2438:Footwear 2388:Monokini 2383:Dry suit 2360:Swimwear 2335:Negligee 2325:Babygrow 2320:Babydoll 2288:Ski suit 2271:bathrobe 2251:Lab coat 2229:mackinaw 2172:mozzetta 2162:monastic 2123:pinafore 2086:Tailcoat 2014:Raincoat 1794:Leggings 1763:Camisole 1743:lingerie 1651:Sundress 1551:Cocktail 1536:Backless 1477:Workwear 1460:vestment 1455:clerical 1435:Pantsuit 1401:Military 1396:Jumpsuit 1391:Jodhpuri 1369:academic 1356:uniforms 1326:Slim-fit 1314:hotpants 1264:Overalls 1259:Jodhpurs 1201:Trousers 1154:guernsey 1149:cardigan 1090:tube top 1080:crop top 972:Neckwear 947:Kerchief 888:baseball 870:Headwear 859:Timeline 844:Industry 827:Clothing 311:Pantsuit 280:See also 272:Material 2814:Fursuit 2780:Fashion 2753:Costume 2736:Related 2676:Western 2597:Handbag 2582:Glasses 2577:Gaiters 2547:Armband 2496:Legwear 2486:Sneaker 2481:Slipper 2428:Wetsuit 2373:Burkini 2350:Pajamas 2234:Norfolk 2224:leather 2189:Cut-off 2135:Cagoule 2130:Blouson 2096:morning 2069:smoking 2042:bekishe 1999:Paletot 1799:Panties 1708:Rah-rah 1703:Prairie 1600:Wedding 1585:Prairie 1563:Evening 1514:Dresses 1450:cassock 1416:service 1319:running 1304:dolphin 1299:dycling 1294:Bermuda 1269:Palazzo 1249:Lowrise 1214:Bondage 1184:twinset 1144:Sweater 1097:Cycling 1010:Necktie 925:homburg 839:History 218:buttons 212:Sleeves 206:hacking 171:Pockets 118:pointed 114:stepped 59:History 43:, is a 2723:Casual 2684:Formal 2652:Wallet 2607:Livery 2587:Gloves 2529:Tights 2514:Garter 2471:Sandal 2423:Trunks 2368:Bikini 2261:Poncho 2246:Jerkin 2239:safari 2214:goggle 2209:flight 2199:Jacket 2184:Coatee 2157:Mantle 2074:sports 2064:Blazer 1982:Ulster 1977:Trench 1965:Riding 1933:Duster 1928:Duffel 1923:Covert 1834:briefs 1784:Diaper 1777:Bottom 1713:Sarong 1698:Pencil 1673:A-line 1665:Skirts 1636:Sheath 1626:Jumper 1614:Casual 1502:scrubs 1492:hazmat 1472:Prison 1467:School 1428:combat 1421:sailor 1289:Shorts 1234:Formal 1164:jersey 1159:hoodie 1122:Henley 1107:Mantle 1070:Blouse 1052:Tippet 1035:school 1030:kipper 985:Choker 957:Turban 937:Helmet 920:fedora 915:bowler 910:boater 296:Tuxedo 286:Blazer 102:Lapels 86:tuxedo 45:jacket 2807:types 2657:Watch 2632:Spats 2403:Sling 2283:Shawl 2256:Parka 2194:Gilet 2167:royal 2118:Apron 2111:Other 2091:dress 2047:rekel 1992:opera 1987:Cloak 1955:Greca 1886:Coats 1872:Teddy 1814:Thong 1718:Skort 1688:Men's 1683:Denim 1621:House 1580:Plain 1519:gowns 1497:space 1374:court 1351:Suits 1254:Jeans 1229:Chaps 1224:Cargo 1219:Capri 1174:shrug 1117:dress 1112:Shirt 1102:Kurta 1047:Scarf 1040:stock 1015:ascot 980:Bands 878:Beret 681:ch. 2 237:Vents 183:besom 150:notch 108:Lapel 80:Most 2824:Laws 2627:Sash 2612:Muff 2552:Belt 2504:Sock 2476:Shoe 2446:Boot 2266:Robe 2204:down 2140:Cape 2079:Teba 2009:Polo 1845:Full 1809:Slip 1741:and 1728:Wrap 1723:Tutu 1646:Slip 1605:Wrap 1517:and 1411:mess 1406:full 1386:Folk 1284:Phat 1127:polo 1062:Tops 1020:bolo 962:Veil 952:Mask 942:Hood 898:knit 893:flat 258:tail 254:vent 154:peak 53:suit 2004:Pea 1913:Car 1889:and 1758:Bra 1751:Top 1353:and 1309:gym 1025:bow 930:top 905:Hat 883:Cap 225:or 152:or 47:in 39:or 2877:: 779:. 755:. 720:. 672:^ 644:. 610:. 524:. 500:. 476:. 452:. 428:. 404:. 380:. 356:. 332:. 252:A 208:. 193:. 55:. 35:, 27:A 1137:T 819:e 812:t 805:v 789:. 765:. 732:. 705:. 654:. 620:. 595:. 534:. 510:. 486:. 462:. 438:. 414:. 390:. 366:. 342:.

Index


jacket
classic menswear
suit
single-breasted
tuxedo
zoot suits
Double-breasted
Lapel



buttonhole
boutonnière
Coat pocket
formalwear
dinner jacket
pocket square
hacking
buttons
frock coats

vent
morning coat
Dinner jackets
Blazer
Sports jacket
Tuxedo
Smoking jacket
Stroller (style)

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