120:), or shawl. Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are the most common of the three and are usually only found on single-breasted jackets. They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree 'notch' at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Peaked lapels have sharp edges which point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels may be found on single breasted jackets as well. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits.
242:
98:
button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.
185:) pockets. The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on
264:, and, for practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British.
20:
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229:(U.S.). Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit. A "cuffed sleeve" has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as
220:
on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature
203:
In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now
92:
can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural
97:
jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to
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The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw
71:
Since 1860, all the components of the suit began to be sewn from a uniform fabric. Today, jackets come in different lengths, but the classic is one in which the jacket covers the buttocks, the sleeves reach the wrist, and the cuff of the shirt extends out a couple of centimeters from under the
204:
seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while
67:
The 1870s saw the birth of the suit, which at first was met with great skepticism and viewed primarily as leisure wear. In particular, which came into fashion in the late 1870s, a suit in a large plaid with rolled to the knee pants.
167:, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.
63:
The jacket was originally a work jacket that came into fashion due to the French
Revolution. It was popular among sailors, and in the 19th century it became a common item of clothing for sports and recreation.
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Jackets are usually made of woolen fabric, but other fabrics such as cotton, linen, and velvet are also available. Tweed is widely used in the United
Kingdom.
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260:) of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a
181:
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted (
426:"1870s Hodgepodge: His and Hers Dressing Rooms, Bathing, a Bride's Trousseau, Rules of Victorian Mourning, and Many Fashion Illustrations"
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Druesdow (1990). p. vi. "...for often the difference in style from season to season was in the distance between buttons..."
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dinner jackets often have only one button). It is rare to find a suit jacket with more than four buttons, although
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suit jackets have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual (except that
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582:"What's the Difference Between a Notch Lapel, Peak Lapel, and Shawl Lapel on a Suit"
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mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the
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330:"History of the Suit: The Evolution of Menswear from 1800 to Today"
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718:"For Fine Recession Wear, $ 7,000 Suits From Saks (Off the Rack)"
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354:"Fashion During the French Revolution (Politics and Clothing)"
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A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a
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The Nu-Way Course in
Fashionable Clothes Making (1926).
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Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four
498:"Victorian Men's Fashion History and Clothing Guide"
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753:"Raw Materials Used in Making Coats and Jackets"
233:carried over to informal wear, but is now rare.
112:The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called
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402:"History of Men's Suits (Illustrated Timeline)"
16:Man's coat worn with a business or lounge suit
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716:Rosenbloom, Stephanie (February 13, 2009).
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1900:
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156:between the collar and front lapel).
7:
450:"1860-1869 Fashion History Timeline"
2819:Global trade of secondhand clothing
777:"How to Look After A Tweed Jacket"
378:"The work jacket: an iconic piece"
256:is a slit in the bottom rear (the
200:or handkerchief can be displayed.
14:
23:Single and double-breasted jacket
2855:
608:"Single-breasted, peaked lapel"
584:. sharpsense.ca. Archived from
474:"Custom tailor in Los Angeles"
1:
268:traditionally have no vents.
742:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172
692:Mahon, Thomas (2007-01-18).
640:Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07).
606:Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29).
757:www.onlineclothingstudy.com
571:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 16
562:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 14
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2829:List of individual dresses
248:; US. Dept. of Agriculture
174:
105:
76:Single and double-breasted
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630:Flusser (2002). pp. 82–85
454:fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu
334:www.gentlemansgazette.com
246:Sewing Menswear--Jackets
642:"What's in your lapel?"
522:"Victorian Era Fashion"
478:patternmaker-tailor.net
2834:Reconstructed clothing
382:www.premieremanche.com
249:
144:
136:
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72:sleeve of the jacket.
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553:Flusser (2002). p. 83
358:www.givemehistory.com
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163:, intended to hold a
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2775:Environmental impact
694:"Real cuff holes..."
227:working button holes
2862:Clothing portal
646:A Suitable Wardrobe
159:Lapels also have a
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51:that is part of a
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2763:Halloween costume
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502:vintagedancer.com
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49:classic menswear
31:, also called a
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588:on 2017-09-26
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33:lounge jacket
30:
21:
2802:Fur clothing
2622:Pocket watch
2058:
1943:British Warm
1918:Chesterfield
1829:boxer shorts
1824:boxer briefs
1556:little black
1209:Bell-bottoms
1179:sweater vest
784:. Retrieved
780:
771:
760:. Retrieved
756:
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727:. Retrieved
721:
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700:. Retrieved
696:
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649:. Retrieved
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615:. Retrieved
611:
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590:. Retrieved
586:the original
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381:
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361:. Retrieved
357:
348:
337:. Retrieved
333:
324:
275:
262:morning coat
257:
251:
245:
226:
222:
221:is called a
215:
202:
195:
189:, such as a
182:
180:
158:
153:
149:
146:
135:peaked lapel
117:
113:
111:
79:
70:
66:
62:
40:
36:
32:
28:
26:
2701:Semi-formal
2667:Dress codes
2557:Boutonnière
2539:Accessories
2418:Swim diaper
2413:Swim briefs
2378:Boardshorts
2298:Windbreaker
2059:Suit jacket
2054:Mess jacket
1948:Guards Coat
1867:See-through
1631:Romper suit
1005:Neck gaiter
1000:Neckerchief
854:Terminology
697:English Cut
612:English Cut
231:frock coats
177:Coat pocket
165:boutonnière
143:shawl lapel
116:), peaked (
93:waistline.
37:lounge coat
29:suit jacket
2642:Suspenders
2637:Sunglasses
2572:Cummerbund
2562:Coin purse
2466:Flip-flops
2461:Dress shoe
2456:Dress boot
2451:Court shoe
2398:Rash guard
2345:Nightshirt
2219:Harrington
2177:pellegrina
2037:Frock coat
2030:Suit coats
2019:Mackintosh
1960:Over-frock
1819:Underpants
1768:Undershirt
1641:Shirtdress
1482:boilersuit
1379:diplomatic
1341:Yoga pants
1331:Sweatpants
1244:High water
1239:Go-to-hell
1132:sleeveless
1085:halterneck
1075:cache-cœur
995:Lavallière
849:Technology
786:2024-08-07
762:2024-08-07
729:2009-02-14
702:2008-10-26
651:2008-09-24
617:2008-09-20
592:2017-09-26
531:2024-08-07
507:2024-08-07
483:2024-08-07
459:2024-08-07
435:2024-08-07
411:2024-08-07
387:2024-08-07
363:2024-08-07
339:2024-08-07
317:References
187:formalwear
161:buttonhole
90:zoot suits
2711:black tie
2694:white tie
2602:Jewellery
2519:Pantyhose
2393:One-piece
2340:Nightgown
2312:Nightwear
2150:Inverness
2145:ferraiolo
1970:shadbelly
1938:Greatcoat
1905:Overcoats
1892:outerwear
1738:Underwear
1693:Miniskirt
1678:Ballerina
1595:Strapless
1573:debutante
1568:ball gown
1546:Coatdress
1487:cleanroom
1445:Religious
1440:Political
1336:Windpants
1274:Parachute
1191:Waistcoat
1169:polo neck
666:Lesson 33
41:suit coat
2875:Category
2718:Informal
2647:Umbrella
2592:Headband
2567:Cufflink
2524:Stocking
2509:Hold-ups
2438:Footwear
2388:Monokini
2383:Dry suit
2360:Swimwear
2335:Negligee
2325:Babygrow
2320:Babydoll
2288:Ski suit
2271:bathrobe
2251:Lab coat
2229:mackinaw
2172:mozzetta
2162:monastic
2123:pinafore
2086:Tailcoat
2014:Raincoat
1794:Leggings
1763:Camisole
1743:lingerie
1651:Sundress
1551:Cocktail
1536:Backless
1477:Workwear
1460:vestment
1455:clerical
1435:Pantsuit
1401:Military
1396:Jumpsuit
1391:Jodhpuri
1369:academic
1356:uniforms
1326:Slim-fit
1314:hotpants
1264:Overalls
1259:Jodhpurs
1201:Trousers
1154:guernsey
1149:cardigan
1090:tube top
1080:crop top
972:Neckwear
947:Kerchief
888:baseball
870:Headwear
859:Timeline
844:Industry
827:Clothing
311:Pantsuit
280:See also
272:Material
2814:Fursuit
2780:Fashion
2753:Costume
2736:Related
2676:Western
2597:Handbag
2582:Glasses
2577:Gaiters
2547:Armband
2496:Legwear
2486:Sneaker
2481:Slipper
2428:Wetsuit
2373:Burkini
2350:Pajamas
2234:Norfolk
2224:leather
2189:Cut-off
2135:Cagoule
2130:Blouson
2096:morning
2069:smoking
2042:bekishe
1999:Paletot
1799:Panties
1708:Rah-rah
1703:Prairie
1600:Wedding
1585:Prairie
1563:Evening
1514:Dresses
1450:cassock
1416:service
1319:running
1304:dolphin
1299:dycling
1294:Bermuda
1269:Palazzo
1249:Lowrise
1214:Bondage
1184:twinset
1144:Sweater
1097:Cycling
1010:Necktie
925:homburg
839:History
218:buttons
212:Sleeves
206:hacking
171:Pockets
118:pointed
114:stepped
59:History
43:, is a
2723:Casual
2684:Formal
2652:Wallet
2607:Livery
2587:Gloves
2529:Tights
2514:Garter
2471:Sandal
2423:Trunks
2368:Bikini
2261:Poncho
2246:Jerkin
2239:safari
2214:goggle
2209:flight
2199:Jacket
2184:Coatee
2157:Mantle
2074:sports
2064:Blazer
1982:Ulster
1977:Trench
1965:Riding
1933:Duster
1928:Duffel
1923:Covert
1834:briefs
1784:Diaper
1777:Bottom
1713:Sarong
1698:Pencil
1673:A-line
1665:Skirts
1636:Sheath
1626:Jumper
1614:Casual
1502:scrubs
1492:hazmat
1472:Prison
1467:School
1428:combat
1421:sailor
1289:Shorts
1234:Formal
1164:jersey
1159:hoodie
1122:Henley
1107:Mantle
1070:Blouse
1052:Tippet
1035:school
1030:kipper
985:Choker
957:Turban
937:Helmet
920:fedora
915:bowler
910:boater
296:Tuxedo
286:Blazer
102:Lapels
86:tuxedo
45:jacket
2807:types
2657:Watch
2632:Spats
2403:Sling
2283:Shawl
2256:Parka
2194:Gilet
2167:royal
2118:Apron
2111:Other
2091:dress
2047:rekel
1992:opera
1987:Cloak
1955:Greca
1886:Coats
1872:Teddy
1814:Thong
1718:Skort
1688:Men's
1683:Denim
1621:House
1580:Plain
1519:gowns
1497:space
1374:court
1351:Suits
1254:Jeans
1229:Chaps
1224:Cargo
1219:Capri
1174:shrug
1117:dress
1112:Shirt
1102:Kurta
1047:Scarf
1040:stock
1015:ascot
980:Bands
878:Beret
681:ch. 2
237:Vents
183:besom
150:notch
108:Lapel
80:Most
2824:Laws
2627:Sash
2612:Muff
2552:Belt
2504:Sock
2476:Shoe
2446:Boot
2266:Robe
2204:down
2140:Cape
2079:Teba
2009:Polo
1845:Full
1809:Slip
1741:and
1728:Wrap
1723:Tutu
1646:Slip
1605:Wrap
1517:and
1411:mess
1406:full
1386:Folk
1284:Phat
1127:polo
1062:Tops
1020:bolo
962:Veil
952:Mask
942:Hood
898:knit
893:flat
258:tail
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