365:
255:'Sandbagging' is a source of debate amongst climbers, some consider it a source of unnecessary danger to visiting climbers, while others consider 'sandbagging' a reflection of local customs and historical grading that should be preserved in guidebook grades. Certain climbing areas are notable for systemic sandbagging (i.e. most of the grades in their guidebooks understate the true difficulty of their routes), with examples in North America being
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in 1859 being arguably being one of the earliest published guidebooks dedicated to climbing. Climbing guidebooks became an important part of developing the culture of climbing, and the promotion of the activity as a sport, and they became increasingly common by the turn of the 20th century in Europe
340:
of new climbing routes, to update details for existing routes, and in particular to show any change in the consensus grade of existing climbing routes. The task of re-grading existing climbs, and ensuring that the guidebook accurately and fairly reflects the assessments of respected climbers in the
251:
in Europe. An aspect of climbing guidebooks is the consistency of applying these dominant grading systems with that of other climbing areas and guidebooks so that visiting climbers to an area can accurately assess the scale of a route's challenge. Where a guidebook's grades are materially 'easier'
96:
Modern climbing guidebooks are increasingly available in digital format, and even as searchable smartphone apps with extensive beta and three-dimensional diagrams of routes. Extensive online 'opensource' databases of climbing routes now exist, however, the publication of 'physical guidebooks' for
324:
Regardless of publication, in many cases, the authorship of the climbing guidebook will explicitly (i.e. named on the front cover), or implicitly (listed as contributors/advisors), include well-regarded climbers who are associated with the climbing area in question. There are however notable
399:
As well as promoting an area to outside climbers, guidebooks chronicle the history and stories of climbing areas and individual climbing routes, and delineate what is considered to be good and/or acceptable style in a particular area and what is not acceptable (e.g use of
407:). There have been instances where local climbers have strongly objected to the publication of a guidebook due to differences in opinion on local climbing ethics, and/or the prospect of attracting increased visitors (e.g. at
163:). Starting in the 1980s, a diagram style was developed, with detailed diagrams (or photographs) of the routes with the key obstacles and challenges encountered explicitly marked/overlaid, which came to be called "
267:. Some guidebooks will try to aleart the reader on sandbagged routes (e.g. "often considered sandbagged at the grade"), or with more subtle wordings to avoid upsetting local climbers such as "stiff at the grade".
320:
in the US), by commercial publishers (e.g. Rockfax and
Cicerone in Europe or Falcon Guides, Wolverine, and SuperTopo in the US), or self-published by local enthusiasts, which is how climbing areas get started.
566:
Several mountaineering organizations maintain extensive libraries and collections of current and historical climbing guidebooks, including the
British Mountaineering Council, who have been compiling an updated
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2839:
100:
Climbing route guidebooks began to proliferate at the turn of the 20th century in Europe and became an important chronicle of the history and stories of climbing areas and routes (e.g. who made the
144:
Before discussing individual routes, a climbing guidebook will outline the history and current status of climbing ethics applicable for the location including for example whether the use of
104:) and played an important part in promoting the sport of climbing and the attractiveness of particular areas. Certain notable guidebooks played an important role in standardizing the
356:', however, climbing authors note that the need for 'physical guidebooks' that can be carried by climbers to (often) remote crags remains (many have physical and online editions).
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area, can be lengthy—and can lead to many heated debates amongst climbers, which need to be 'consensus-driven'. Between editions, 'new routes updates' are often held online.
325:
climbing guidebook authors who are not specifically associated with an area, but whose authorship and climbing insights are equally well-regarded, examples being
Britain's
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414:
Certain guidebooks had a significant impact on the standardization of climbing and the adoption of grading systems in particular. For example, Steve Roper's 1964
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575:
is also noted for its collection of climbing guidebooks. A noted online database of information on climbing routes—including verified ascensionists—is the late
1831:
2985:
2885:
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1077:
227:), a guidebook on the Tyrol whose climbing routes could be accessed via public transport or bicycle, thus reducing the carbon footprint of the climbers.
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applications as apps. This medium offers the benefit of continuous updates, as well as rapid searching, and in some cases, GPS navigation and
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than what they should be so that the listed grades underestimate the challenge and difficulty of the routes, it is known as 'sandbagging'.
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1308:
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technical climbing routes is still ongoing given the unique demands of climbing (with many having both a physical and online edition).
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1390:
1826:
1811:
35:
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995:
903:
333:, who wrote many notable climbing guidebooks for a wide range of locations and types of rock in their respective countries.
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178:. The description can also include varying amounts of information about how to climb the route, such as the location of the
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The grading of modern climbing routes is increasingly concentrated around a small number of dominant systems, such as the
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start in the third left-facing corner below the large, orange roof, left of the route "Something
Interesting"
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1918:
1821:
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423:
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821:
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1931:
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As a climbing area develops, new editions of the guidebook for the area will be published to capture the
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In recent years, many climbing guidebooks have been published in digital format, often for display in
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Some of the earliest dedicated climbing guidebooks can be dated back to the mid-19th century and the
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1213:... and in 1974 published Hard Rock, among the most influential climbing books of the 20th century.
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diagrams. There are now several major online climbing route databases including 'theCrag.com' and '
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710:
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1909:
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1938:
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486:
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213:
194:)—when the information on 'how to climb' a route is very detailed it is collectively known as
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in
Britain). The books may be published by national/regional mountaineering bodies (e.g. the
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30:
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2004:
1977:
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298:), or exhaustive compilations of all known climbing routes in a region (e.g. the 512-page
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74:. Modern route guidebooks include detailed information on each climbing route, including
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1078:"From Climbing Partners to Bitter Enemies: In the Trenches of the Pikes Peak Bolt War"
738:"Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena MĂĽller, Deniz Scheerer"
17:
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Peaks, Passes, and
Glaciers. A Series of Excursions by the Members of the Alpine Club
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2009:
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Guidebooks may be compilations of selected popular or well-regarded routes (e.g.
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2014:
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Climber consulting a 'physical' climbing guidebook at the top of a route at
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Guidebooks can locate a given route by verbal description (for example: "
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676:"The Guidebook Odyssey – Unearthing the epic task of writing a guidebook"
256:
51:
1281:"The Source – How Hueco and a guidebook gave birth to modern bouldering"
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has at times given a 'Best
Guidebook Award' for outstanding guidebooks.
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1992:
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Climbing guidebooks that are considered historically notable include:
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1429:, North America's largest online rock and ice climbing route database
1426:
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techniques), and the legal position around access to the location.
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996:"Kevin McLane's Canadian Rock: What It Takes to Write a Guidebook"
363:
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130:
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29:
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for each specific route, including the length of a route and its
1472:
1309:"A brief introduction to the collecting of climbing guidebooks"
212:. In a definitive guide, the route's history (e.g. credits for
794:"Get Sandbagged! 7 Notoriously Tougher-than-Advertised Routes"
1363:"British and Irish Climbing guidebooks – The 2013 Supplement"
442:
to
American bouldering, where it became the dominant system.
2898:
1052:"Has the Future of Climbing Guidebooks Arrived in Squamish?"
767:"What Is A Sandbag In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained"
426:
as the dominant grading system in North
America. Similarly,
1468:
152:
is allowed, and other local customs (e.g. use if non-clean
140:
in Spain, by climber Chris Craggs from a Rockfax guidebook
1106:"Controversial Pikes Peak guidebook set to be published"
569:
Bibliography of British and Irish Guidebooks (from 1894)
1423:, Europe's largest online rock climbing route database
904:"Guidebooks: What They Say vs. What They Mean Article"
2840:
Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
2892:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
2845:
Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
850:"Numbers Game: Classic Sandbags at 4 Historic Crags"
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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1724:
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1513:
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1168:"10 Things You Didn't Know About Bouldering Grades"
1254:"The Fifty Classic Climbs of North America List"
1391:"Squamish Rockclimbs wins best guidebook award"
822:"Cedar Wright on 'The Value of a Good Sandbag'"
200:, and can affect the style of the ascent (i.e.
204:). The guidebook may also include the type of
1484:
8:
396:and after World War Two in North America.
2886:International Federation of Sport Climbing
2782:
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1914:
1905:
1519:
1510:
1491:
1477:
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1335:"Are you a Fanatical Guidebook Collector?"
554:Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide
436:Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide
219:In 2022, two Austrian climbers published
1227:"The 50 Classic Climbs of North America"
878:"What does sandbagging mean in climbing"
792:Schermerhorn, Eddie (9 September 2013).
182:and any special techniques needed (i.e.
1439:VIDEO: How to use a climbing guide book
1433:VIDEO: How to use a climbing guide book
961:
959:
626:
1161:
1159:
1137:"A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley"
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1128:
930:
928:
926:
924:
704:
702:
700:
698:
669:
667:
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639:Ryan, Mick; James, Alan (July 2002).
546:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
289:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
170:Modern guidebooks include a range of
7:
2946:
761:
759:
674:Adamson, Michael (6 February 2009).
634:
632:
630:
538:A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley
530:A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range
420:A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley
2958:
937:"Semi-Rad: In Praise of Guidebooks"
1022:Gerry, Aaron (29 September 2023).
966:Grimes, Niall (12 December 2010).
935:Leonard, Brendan (12 April 2016).
516:Guidebook to the Italian mountains
25:
2986:Climbing and mountaineering books
2855:South African Climbing Federation
968:"How the BMC produces guidebooks"
243:in North America, and the French
70:on mountains, climbing crags, or
36:Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies
2957:
2945:
2934:
2933:
2921:
1827:IFSC World Championships winners
1389:Chua, Steve (30 November 2018).
1279:Laeser, Luke (27 January 2006).
1024:"The Best Climbing Apps of 2023"
994:Ward, Meghan (3 November 2010).
711:"Guidebooks Are Still a Problem"
709:Robinson, Doug (23 March 2023).
1459:Database of Climbing Guidebooks
1076:Buhay, Corey (23 August 2021).
902:Sagar, John (10 October 2019).
2825:British Mountaineering Council
1449:Compiling A Climbing Guidebook
1443:British Mountaineering Council
1368:British Mountaineering Council
1361:Grimes, Niall (12 June 2014).
1340:British Mountaineering Council
1333:Moss, Alan (8 February 2012).
1307:Johnston-Smith, David (2024).
1135:Kiester, Shey (12 June 2015).
973:British Mountaineering Council
848:Drummond, Liz (2 March 2023).
820:Wright, Cedar (27 June 2023).
306:British Mountaineering Council
1:
1166:Samet, Matt (24 March 2022).
1050:Pardy, Aaron (17 July 2023).
118:Climbing route § Details
1194:Douglas, Ed (28 June 2016).
1104:Boster, Seth (24 May 2021).
642:How to write ... a MiniGuide
593:Banff Mountain Book Festival
208:needed and particularly for
393:Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers
370:Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers
360:Influence and notable books
27:Database of climbing routes
3002:
1225:Gates, Zoe (22 May 2017).
271:Publication and authorship
216:) would also be included.
115:
2917:
2815:Appalachian Mountain Club
876:D, Zak (22 August 2023).
562:Libraries and collections
376:, first president of the
2730:Mountain Safety Research
2725:Mountain Equipment Co-op
648:. RockFax. pp. 1–15
511:Guida dei Monti d'Italia
498:, commonly shortened to
221:Klimafreundlich Klettern
167:" (see image opposite).
2860:South Tyrol Alpine Club
2655:Eastern Mountain Sports
2521:Canadian Alpine Journal
2514:American Alpine Journal
1777:Roof and tunnel hacking
1313:Mountain Heritage Trust
424:Yosemite Decimal System
422:, cemented the nascent
237:Yosemite Decimal System
112:Content and information
108:that are in use today.
84:protection requirements
2680:Holubar Mountaineering
2492:Magazines and journals
1822:IFSC World Cup winners
581:The Himalayan Database
495:
385:Golden Age of Alpinism
380:
283:
141:
40:
18:Sandbagging (climbing)
2805:Alpine Club of Canada
2715:Marmot Mountain Works
2670:GERRY Mountain Sports
1196:"Ken Wilson obituary"
571:. The library of the
456:Some Gritstone Climbs
367:
278:
125:
39:(2016), by Alan Kane.
33:
2835:Club Alpino Italiano
2820:Austrian Alpine Club
2810:American Alpine Club
573:American Alpine Club
472:Continental European
314:Club Alpino Italiano
225:Sustainable Climbing
2830:Club Alpin Français
2204:Mountaineering boot
1817:Piolet d'Or winners
1463:UKClimbing Magazine
387:, with the British
354:MountainProject.com
263:(the "Gunks"), and
210:climbing protection
44:Climbing guidebooks
2850:German Alpine Club
1453:Irish ClimbingWiki
1396:Pique Newsmagazine
615:Climbing technique
496:AlpenvereinsfĂĽhrer
381:
372:(1859), edited by
284:
214:first free ascents
190:, or the need for
142:
41:
2973:
2972:
2913:
2912:
2865:Swiss Alpine Club
2618:
2617:
2573:Non-fiction films
2549:Planinski Vestnik
2542:Himalayan Journal
2480:
2479:
2242:
2241:
1871:Historical events
1842:Eight-thousanders
1795:
1794:
1649:
1648:
1260:. 29 October 2020
773:. 15 January 2021
487:Alpine Club Guide
416:big wall climbing
350:three dimensional
316:in Italy, or the
102:first free ascent
16:(Redirected from
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2937:
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2925:
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2735:Outdoor Research
2489:
1915:
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1876:Grade milestones
1685:Expedition style
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1258:Gripped Magazine
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1056:Gripped Magazine
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605:Grade (climbing)
577:Elizabeth Hawley
368:Title page from
312:in Britain, the
261:Shawangunk Ridge
172:standard details
72:bouldering areas
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2172:Abalakov thread
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1598:Deep-water solo
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1435:, EpicTV (2016)
1427:MountainProject
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438:introduced the
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301:Lancashire Rock
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265:Eldorado Canyon
233:
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106:grading systems
68:climbing routes
66:, and navigate
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411:in Colorado).
402:sport climbing
361:
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329:and America's
310:Climbers' Club
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176:climbing grade
150:sport climbing
116:Main article:
113:
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88:sport climbing
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61:
60:rock climbers
57:
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49:
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38:
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32:
19:
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2870:USA Climbing
2770:Wild Country
2765:Therm-a-Rest
2607:
2600:
2593:
2586:
2581:The Alpinist
2579:
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2554:
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2512:
2505:
2498:
2460:Campus board
2415:First ascent
2399:
2159:Ice and snow
1956:Belay device
1807:Alpine clubs
1767:Ropes course
1680:Alpine style
1462:
1452:
1400:. Retrieved
1394:
1384:
1372:. Retrieved
1366:
1356:
1344:. Retrieved
1338:
1328:
1316:. Retrieved
1312:
1302:
1290:. Retrieved
1284:
1274:
1262:. Retrieved
1257:
1248:
1236:. Retrieved
1230:
1220:
1212:
1205:. Retrieved
1201:The Guardian
1199:
1189:
1177:. Retrieved
1171:
1146:. Retrieved
1140:
1115:. Retrieved
1109:
1099:
1087:. Retrieved
1081:
1071:
1059:. Retrieved
1055:
1045:
1033:. Retrieved
1027:
1017:
1005:. Retrieved
999:
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977:. Retrieved
971:
946:. Retrieved
940:
911:. Retrieved
907:
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885:. Retrieved
881:
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859:. Retrieved
853:
843:
831:. Retrieved
825:
815:
803:. Retrieved
797:
787:
775:. Retrieved
770:
746:. Retrieved
744:. 6 May 2022
741:
732:
720:. Retrieved
714:
685:. Retrieved
679:
650:. Retrieved
641:
590:
568:
565:
552:
544:
536:
528:
515:
514:(in English
509:
503:
499:
485:
477:
462:
454:
444:
435:
428:John Sherman
419:
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398:
392:
382:
369:
343:
335:
323:
299:
293:
287:
285:
254:
245:sport system
234:
224:
220:
218:
195:
192:aid climbing
169:
160:
158:
154:aid climbing
143:
138:Costa Blanca
133:
99:
95:
56:ice climbers
48:mountaineers
46:are used by
43:
42:
34:
2964:WikiProject
2800:Alpine Club
2795:Access Fund
2705:Lowe Alpine
2700:La Sportiva
2437:Fall factor
2330:Self-arrest
2306:Redpointing
2229:Snow anchor
1983:Boulder mat
1932:Daisy chain
1902:Terminology
1893:Terminology
1772:Rooftopping
1714:Hillwalking
1702:Dry-tooling
1668:Via ferrata
1581:Traditional
1559:Competition
1540:Multi-pitch
1523:Disciplines
1179:1 September
1111:The Gazette
418:guidebook,
409:Pike's Peak
389:Alpine Club
378:Alpine Club
331:Steve Roper
318:Sierra Club
281:Sennen Cove
231:Sandbagging
62:to locate,
2588:El Capitan
2352:Traversing
2301:Onsighting
2281:Glissading
2264:DĂĽlfersitz
2259:Australian
2222:Transeiver
2167:Alpenstock
2100:Portaledge
2088:Copperhead
2027:Descenders
1961:Auto belay
1752:Commercial
1732:Buildering
1709:Scrambling
1619:Rock types
1610:Top roping
1547:Bouldering
1061:3 November
1035:28 October
908:UKClimbing
882:HardClimbs
621:References
434:guidebook
432:bouldering
346:smartphone
327:Ken Wilson
249:Font-scale
202:onsighting
188:laybacking
127:Topo image
93:be used).
80:route beta
2740:Patagonia
2623:Companies
2609:Hard Grit
2602:Free Solo
2470:MoonBoard
2465:Hangboard
2451:Training
2400:Guidebook
2375:Ape index
2340:Rope team
2254:Abseiling
2199:Ice screw
2105:Quickdraw
1988:Carabiner
1910:Equipment
1888:Technique
1854:Equipment
1737:Canyoning
1675:Himalayan
1603:Rope solo
1593:Free solo
687:26 August
652:26 August
500:AV FĂĽhrer
464:Hard Rock
374:John Ball
295:Hard Rock
206:equipment
52:alpinists
2980:Category
2940:Category
2787:National
2685:JanSport
2660:Five Ten
2535:Desnivel
2528:Climbing
2507:Alpinist
2432:Exposure
2410:Chipping
2357:Tyrolean
2347:Spotting
2318:Crevasse
2296:Flashing
2286:Jumaring
2271:Belaying
2234:Snowshoe
2192:Ice tool
2182:Crampons
2032:Figure-8
1944:Ascender
1812:Climbers
1552:Highball
1535:Big wall
1500:Climbing
1286:Climbing
1232:Climbing
1173:Climbing
1142:Alpinist
1083:Climbing
1029:Climbing
1001:Alpinist
942:Climbing
855:Climbing
827:Climbing
799:Climbing
716:Climbing
681:Climbing
599:See also
430:'s 1991
257:Yosemite
239:and the
184:bridging
134:Toix Est
2952:Commons
2906:(UIMLA)
2900:(UIAGM)
2291:Leading
2208:Rescue
2187:Ice axe
2137:Camalot
2071:Lanyard
2054:Skyhook
2039:Harness
2010:Dynamic
1993:Maillon
1966:Glasses
1847:Everest
1838:Deaths
1757:Parkour
1421:theCrag
771:Climber
557:(1991).
549:(1979).
541:(1964).
533:(1956).
482:(1959).
467:(1974).
459:(1913).
440:V-scale
338:details
241:V-scale
129:of the
2928:Portal
2894:(UIAA)
2888:(IFSC)
2720:Millet
2710:Mammut
2675:Grivel
2645:Deuter
2563:Summit
2447:Guides
2442:Grades
2313:Rescue
2247:Action
2149:Tricam
2115:Grigri
2061:Hammer
2015:Static
1971:Gloves
1939:Anchor
1859:Brands
1663:Alpine
1465:(2024)
1455:(2023)
1445:(2017)
587:Awards
492:German
58:, and
2745:Petzl
2695:Kelty
2485:Media
2420:Pitch
2385:Clean
2368:Other
2217:RECCO
2144:Shoes
2132:SLCDs
2127:Sling
2095:Piton
2044:Hooks
2022:Chalk
1949:Croll
1927:Aider
1864:Knots
1800:Lists
1782:Slide
1747:Grass
1742:Crane
1725:Other
1697:Mixed
1626:Crack
1576:Sport
1564:Speed
1507:Types
1402:5 May
1374:5 May
1346:5 May
1318:5 May
1292:5 May
1264:6 May
1238:5 May
1207:5 May
1148:5 May
1117:5 May
1089:5 May
1007:5 May
979:5 May
948:5 May
913:6 May
887:6 May
861:6 May
833:6 May
805:6 May
777:6 May
748:5 May
722:5 May
646:(PDF)
405:bolts
165:topos
146:bolts
131:cliff
91:bolts
64:grade
2635:CAMP
2425:Topo
2395:Beta
2323:Self
2120:Revo
2110:SLDs
2049:Fifi
2005:Cord
1978:Bolt
1919:Rock
1787:Tree
1762:Pole
1641:Slab
1636:Roof
1631:Face
1588:Solo
1571:Free
1404:2024
1376:2024
1348:2024
1320:2024
1294:2024
1266:2024
1240:2024
1209:2024
1181:2023
1150:2024
1119:2024
1091:2024
1063:2023
1037:2023
1009:2024
981:2024
950:2024
915:2024
889:2024
863:2024
835:2024
807:2024
779:2024
750:2024
724:2024
689:2023
654:2023
591:The
579:'s,
308:and
247:and
223:(or
197:beta
180:crux
148:for
2755:REI
2750:Rab
2083:Nut
2076:PAC
2066:Hex
1692:Ice
1530:Aid
504:AVF
502:or
391:'s
292:or
136:in
2982::
1461:,
1451:,
1441:,
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