Knowledge (XXG)

Norman Hartnell

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the Queen made an extensive Royal tour of most of the countries forming the British Commonwealth. The Coronation dress was worn for the opening of Parliament in several countries, and her varied wardrobe gained press and newsreel headlines internationally, not least for the cotton dresses worn and copied worldwide, many ordered from a specialist wholesale company, Horrockses. Hartnell designs were augmented by a number of gowns from Hardy Amies, her secondary designer from 1951 onwards. Most of the ladies of the royal family used Hartnell, as well as other London designers, to create their clothes for use at home and abroad.
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to a personal royal style began with designs with a slimmed-down fit for day and evening wear. The new Queen was short, and her new clothes gave her height and distinction; public day-clothes usually consisted of a long or three-quarter length coat over a slim skirt, often embellished with fur trimmings or some detail around the neck. His designs for the Queen's evening wear varied from unembellished slim dresses to evening wear embroidered with sequins and glass. There was a complete change of style apparent in designs for the grander evening occasions, when Hartnell re-introduced the
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the Queen, who appeared in her own often re-worked clothes in bombed areas around the country. Hartnell received her endorsement to design clothes for the government's Utility campaign, mass-produced by Berketex, with whom he entered a business relationship that continued into the 1950s. Through this partnership, he became the first leading mid-20th century designers to design mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing. In 1916, Lucile had shown the way during the First World War by designing an extensive line of clothes for the American catalogue retailers
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The business struggled with overheads in common with all couture businesses and various merchandising ventures had some success in helping to bolster the finances. The sale of 'In Love' scent and then other scents was re-introduced in 1954, followed by stockings, knitwear, costume jewellery and late in the 1960s, menswear. However, it was not enough to turn the tide of high-street youthful fashion and he even had to sell his country retreat Lovel Dene to finance the Bruton Street business.
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designs to the highest international couture standards by the 1930s. In 1929, Hartnell showed his clothes to the international press in Paris, and the floor-length hems of his evening dresses, after a decade of rising hems, were hailed as the advent of a new fashion, copied throughout the world as evidenced by the press of the time. His clothes were so popular with the press that he opened a House in Paris in order to participate in Parisian Collection showings.
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Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, the name of Norman Hartnell was continually found in the press. Apart from designing two collections a year and maintaining his theatrical and film star links, he was adept at publicity, whether it was in creating a full evening dress of pound notes for a news-paper stunt, touring fashion shows at home and abroad or using the latest fabrics and man-made materials. Memorable evening dresses were worn by the concert pianist
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the largest in London couture, and continued until his death in 1979, also producing the embroidered Christmas cards for clients and press during quiet August days, a practical form of publicity at which Hartnell was adept. The originality and intricacy of Hartnell embroideries were frequently described in the press, especially in reports of the original wedding dresses he designed for socially prominent young women during the 1920s and 1930s.
1122: 921: 603: 379: 36: 1339:, acquired in 2008 by Fung Capital. Hardy Amies is now owned by No.14 Savile Row, which in turn is owned by Fung Capital, the private investment holding company of the Fung family also the controlling shareholders of publicly listed Li & Fung Limited and Trinity Limited. Various Norman Hartnell themed housewares have been produced and there are plans to further develop the brand. 2331: 1113:). With a fashionable sweetheart neckline and a full skirt, the dress was embroidered with some 10,000 seed-pearls and thousands of white beads. Hartnell also created the going-away outfit and her trousseau, becoming her main designer to be augmented by Hardy Amies in the early 1950s and appealing to whole new generation of clients. 518:, and afternoon gowns for guests at society weddings. Hartnell's success ensured international press coverage and a flourishing trade with those no longer content with 'safe' London clothes derived from Parisian designs. Hartnell became popular with the younger stars of stage and screen, and went on to dress such leading ladies as 752:. Hartnell regretted that his work on the designs for the occasion had been denied worldwide publicity; however, vast crowds did see the newest member of the royal family drive off from Buckingham Palace wearing a Hartnell ensemble for her honeymoon, and the seal of royal approval led to increased business for Hartnell. 1262: 1312:
and the building was completely renovated under the direction of Michael Pick who brought back to life its original Art Moderne splendours. The famous glass chimney-piece forming the focal point of Lacoste's scheme leading on from the ground floor to the first floor salon with its faceted art moderne
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countries, echoing earlier Coronation dresses. The complicated construction of the supporting undergarments and frustrating hours of work involved were described by Hartnell in his autobiography; the weight of the dress made it difficult to achieve a perfect balance and lend a gentle, forward swaying
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dresses from Hartnell, remaining loyal to Handley-Seymour for her Coronation gown. Until 1939, Hartnell received most of the Queen's orders, and after 1946, with the exception of some country clothes, she remained a Hartnell client, even after his death. Hartnell's ability in adapting current fashion
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and typified his high profile as an innovative designer, although in his sixth decade - then considered to be a great age. Hartnell designed and created collections on a smaller scale until 1979 with designs for the Queen and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother still commanding his time and attention.
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by taking his designs to the heart of world fashion. Hartnell specialised in expensive and often lavish embroidery as an integral part of his most expensive clothes, which he also utilised to prevent exact ready-to-wear copies being made of his clothing. The Hartnell in-house embroidery workroom was
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Hartnell never married, but enjoyed a discreet and quiet life at a time when homosexual relations between men were illegal. He considered himself a confirmed bachelor, and his close friends were almost never in the public eye, nor did he ever do anything to compromise his position and business as a
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dress, totally unadorned, utilising many layers of fine silk, and requiring as much skill as the complexities of the Queen's Coronation dress, which it echoed in outline. The Queen wore a long blue lace day dress with a bolero, echoing the design with a slight bolero jacket and a hat adorned with a
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created many designs included in the wardrobes of the Queen. The Queen undertook an increasingly large number of State visits and Royal tours abroad, as well as numerous events at home, all necessitating a volume of clothing too large for just one House to devote its time to. During 1953–54,
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and those of all major Royal ladies in attendance, creating the necessary theatrical tableaux in Westminster Abbey. He also designed dresses for many other clients who attended the ceremony, and his summer 1953 collection of some 150 designs was named "The Silver and Gold Collection", subsequently
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and sustained his career by sponsoring collections for sale to overseas buyers, competing with the Occupied French and German designers, but also a growing group of American designers. Private clients ordered new clothes within the restrictions or had existing clothes altered. This also applied to
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editor, Bocher told Hartnell that he had seldom seen so many wonderful dresses so badly made. Hartnell took his advice and employed the talented Parisian 'Mamselle' Davide, reputedly the highest paid member of any London couture house, and other talented cutters, fitters and tailors to execute his
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Alarmed by a lack of sales, his sister Phyllis insisted that Norman cease his pre-occupation eveningwear and instead focus on creating practical day clothes. Hartnell utilised British woollen fabrics to subtle and ingenious effect; though previously sidelined by London dressmaking, the use of wool
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In the mid-1950s, Hartnell reached the peak of his fame and the business employed some 500 people together with many others in the ancillary businesses. In common with all couture houses of the era, rising costs and changing tastes in women's clothing were a portent of the difficult times ahead.
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By 1939, largely due to Hartnell's success, London was known as an innovative fashion centre and was often visited first by American buyers before they travelled on to Paris. Hartnell had already had substantial American sales to various shops and copyists, a lucrative source of income to all
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in 1969, Hartnell's clothes for the Queen and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother were short, simple designs, reflecting their own personal style. His royal clothes created an impeccably neat look that managed to be stylish without making an overt fashion statement. Hartnell became increasingly
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Although Hartnell's designs for the Duchess of Gloucester's wedding and her trousseau achieved worldwide publicity, the death of the bride's father and consequent period of mourning before the wedding led to what had been planned as a large state wedding, taking place at
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Norman Hartnell first designed for the stage as a schoolboy before the First World War and went on to design for at least twenty-four varied stage productions, after his initial London success with a Footlights Revue, which brought him his first glowing press reviews.
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By 1934, Hartnell's success had outgrown his premises, and he moved over the road to a large Mayfair town house already provided with floors of work-rooms at the rear to Bruton Mews. The first-floor salon was the height of modernity, a glass and mirror-lined
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motion, rather than the lurching, listing motion of the prototypes. The development of the prototypes was the work of his expert cutters and fitters, as Hartnell could not sew, although he understood construction and the handling of various fabrics.
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and when Molyneux opened his London salon, also designed by Lacoste, she became a steady client of his until he closed the business in 1950. Thereafter, she was often a Hartnell client. Hartnell would go on to receive a
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for his influence on world fashion and in the same year created an extensive wardrobe for Queen Elizabeth to wear during the Royal Tour of South Africa in 1947, the first Royal Tour abroad since 1939. Both slimline and
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scheme; apart from specific rules on the amount of fabric allowed per garment, the number of buttons, fastenings and the amount and components of embroideries were all calculated and controlled. Hartnell joined the
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Embroidered wedding dress, 1951, worn by Hermione S. Ball for her marriage to Mervyn Evans, 23 July 1951. Hartnell added a band of embroidery to elongate the body and add grandeur to the back of the full skirt.
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in September 1939. The King and Queen were received with enormous acclaim by great crowds throughout the tour and visit and the dignity and charm of the Queen were undoubtedly aided by her Hartnell wardrobe;
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to France to view their creations being worn. Hartnell had been known to term Amies 'Hardly Amiable'. In late years, long after Hartnell's death and in a more liberal climate, Amies became known for some
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and on arriving at Buckingham Palace was delighted to find that the Queen had deputed Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother to invest him with the honour. Prudence Glynn, the astute fashion editor then of
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in 1960 marked the last full State occasion for which he designed an impressive tableau of dresses. It also marked the swan-song of lavish British couture. The Princess wore a multi-layered white
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of Canada and visit to North America during May and June 1939. At a critical time in world history, the visit cemented North American ties of friendship in the months before the outbreak of
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leading designer to both ladies of the British royal family and his aristocratic or 'society' clients upon whom his success was founded. He rarely socialised with any of them. The younger
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styles were included. In addition, Hartnell designed for the young Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret; Molyneux also designed some day clothes for the Princesses during this trip.
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After his death, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother remained a steadfast client, as did other older clients. In order to continue and revive the business John Tullis, a nephew of
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The younger members of the British royal family attracted worldwide publicity, drawing attention to Hartnell by association. Whilst it was a triumph for Hartnell to have gained
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remarks during interviews and in explaining his business success compared to Hartnell's near penury at the end, he more than once termed Hartnell a 'soppy' or 'silly old
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used as the title for his autobiography, illustrated largely by his assistant Ian Thomas. Thomas subsequently opened his own establishment in 1968 and together with
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Hartnell was born in Streatham, southwest London. His parents were then publicans and owners of the Crown & Sceptre, at the top of Streatham Hill. Educated at
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Within a decade, Hartnell again effectively changed the fashionable evening dress silhouette, when more of the crinoline dresses worn by the Queen during the
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embroidered with glass beads with a 2.6 metres (8.5 ft) train. An early example of a dress designed for a single occasion, rather than repeated use.
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termed him "The First Fashion Knight" and his work as "The Norman Conquest". Hartnell designed and created collections on a smaller scale until 1979.
794:. Bocher was a friend of Hartnell's with whom the latter credited with sound early advice, when he showed his 1929 summer collection in Paris. Then a 1758: 1383:. A Hartnell evening ensemble features in the collection of vintage dresses inherited by Probert-Price's great-niece following her death in 2013. 2079: 2124:"Blue silk and lace dress designed by Norman Hartnell worn by the Queen to Princess Margaret's wedding in 1960 - Fashion Galleries - Telegraph" 1175: 851:, opened London houses, which had a glittering social life centred around the Court. Young British designers opened their own Houses, such as 891: 222: 2323: 1285:, a friend, and was attended by many models and employees and clients, including one of his earliest from the 1920s, his lifelong supporter 1210:
pre-occupied with royal orders. In this he was helped by Thomas, who left to found his own establishment in 1966, and the Japanese designer
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also opened his own House, and all attracted younger women. Older more staid generations still patronised the older London Houses of
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to Paris in July 1938 also created a worldwide sensation viewed in the press and on news-reels. The death of the Queen's mother,
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made the going-away outfit for the Princess and the whole wedding and departure of the couple from the Pool of London on HMY
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At the same time Hartnell moved into the new building, he acquired a weekend retreat, Lovel Dene, a Queen Anne cottage in
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The Norman Hartnell name was acquired by Li & Fung as part of an extensive London fashion portfolio which includes
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in Paris. He designed her 1934 wedding dress and the bridesmaids dresses for her marriage to Queen Mary's fourth son
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as the focal point of the grand mirrored salon. The house re-opened with an acclaimed collection designed by former
2441: 2335: 569: 276:(12 June 1901 – 8 June 1979) was a leading British fashion designer, best known for his work for the ladies of the 931: 632: 617: 389: 46: 2562: 1525: 971: 737: 429: 86: 2396: 1436: 1380: 769: 2433: 1735:"Norman Hartnell - Fashion Designer Encyclopedia - century, women, suits, dress, style, new, body, collection" 1356:, was surprised to discover how much he enjoyed his company in Paris in 1959. They were both there during the 776:. King George suggested that the style favoured earlier by Queen Victoria would enhance the Queen's presence. 2370: 2168: 1683: 1606: 1576: 1468: 1154: 1146: 953: 839:
termed Queen Elizabeth "the most dangerous woman in Europe" on viewing film footage of the successful tour.
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Although worried that he was too old for the job at 46, Hartnell was commanded by the Queen to create the
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In 1968, Hartnell was involved with the redesign of female police uniforms for the Metropolitan Police.
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and their mothers, who desired fashionable and original designs for a busy social life centred on the
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for Elizabeth II, a complex process, due to the gown's weight and embroidery. Photograph by
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In 1946 Hartnell took a successful collection to South America, where his clients included
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Hartnell was buried on 15 June 1979 next to his mother and sister in the graveyard of
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In 1935, Hartnell received the first of what was to be numerous commissions from the
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Hartnell's main interests were in performing in, and designing for, productions at
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fabrics in ladies' day clothing had already successfully demonstrated in Paris by
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glbtq: An Encyclopedia of Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer Culture
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Fashion rapidly changed in the 1960s, and by the time of the Investiture of the
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In addition, Hartnell designed the accompanying dresses worn by the Queen's
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as a client, the four young wives of her four sons created fashion news.
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performances whilst an undergraduate, a production which transferred to
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Women police: Gender, welfare and surveillance in the twentieth century
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Hartnell had many women friends. His dresses were also worn by another
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at 26 Bruton Street where he spent his working life from 1934 to 1979.
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Hartnell designed costumes for the following films (incomplete list):
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On 11 May 2005, the Norman Hartnell premises were commemorated with a
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Thanks to his Cambridge connections, Hartnell acquired a clientele of
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BE DAZZLED! Norman Hartnell : Sixty Years of Glamour and Fashion
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single rose, reminiscent of the Princess's full name, Margaret Rose.
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Keay, Douglas (26 July 1957). "Off Parade - At the Hartnell Home".
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The Queen commanded another extensive wardrobe by Hartnell for the
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also wore a dress designed for Queen Elizabeth II by Hartnell for
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in 1952, Hartnell was asked by Queen Elizabeth II to design her
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Hartnell successfully emulated his British predecessor and hero
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Hartnell was decorated by the French government and his friend
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He is featured as a character in the first two seasons of the
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Hartnell designs produced in 1944 to promote the work of the
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approved the designs, the latter also becoming a client. The
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detailed mirror cladding and pilasters was returned by the
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and client, issued a postage stamp dedicated to Hartnell.
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received worldwide newspaper and television publicity.
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designers. Some French designers, such as Anglo-Irish
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Military personnel from the London Borough of Lambeth
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to world fashion, after the King showed Hartnell the
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Hartnell at work in his London studio during wartime
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The Royal Collection. 2009. 1941:"V&A · 'Silver and Gold' by Norman Hartnell" 1055:Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers 1023:Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers 757:Coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth 748:, instead being held privately in the chapel of 344:In 1923, Hartnell opened his own business at 10 2344:"Norman Hartnell: master of the royal wardrobe" 863:where Hardy Amies was the designer after 1935. 2607:Knights Commander of the Royal Victorian Order 2612:Officiers of the Ordre des Palmes AcadĂ©miques 2449: 2324:Norman Hartnell: master of the royal wardrobe 8: 2466:FĂ©dĂ©ration de la Haute Couture et de la Mode 1848:(online ed.). Oxford University Press. 2147:. Manchester University Press. p. 55. 1174:Hartnell's design for the wedding dress of 631:. Unsourced material may be challenged and 2456: 2442: 2434: 2373: 2061:"Missing Paintings - WilliamRanken.org.uk" 156: 133: 2273:. Michael Pick. Pointed Leaf Press. 2007. 1005:Learn how and when to remove this message 651:Learn how and when to remove this message 463:Learn how and when to remove this message 120:Learn how and when to remove this message 2279:. Norman Hartnell. Evans Brothers. 1955. 1845:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography 1726: 1053:Hartnell was among the founders of the 894:, was a notable figure and a patron of 819:, creator of the full-skirted post-war 2597:Alumni of Magdalene College, Cambridge 1678:He was made a Member 4th Class of the 506:Although expressing the spirit of the 312:, Hartnell became an undergraduate at 2195:Crimmens, Tamsin (15 November 2012). 883:, whose London house closed in 1924. 223:Coronation gown of Queen Elizabeth II 7: 943:adding citations to reliable sources 907:in 1940 as Dressmaker to the Queen. 629:adding citations to reliable sources 401:adding citations to reliable sources 58:adding citations to reliable sources 27:British fashion designer (1901–1979) 2637:20th-century English businesspeople 2592:People educated at Mill Hill School 1771:from the original on 3 October 2021 1103:wedding dress of Princess Elizabeth 2557:Invited, foreign and guest members 2342:Grant, Linda (30 September 2007). 1790:Foussianes, Chloe (20 July 2020). 1757:Thorpe, Vanessa (3 October 2021). 25: 2408:Nikkhah, Roya (28 October 2012). 2308:The Royal Tour: A Souvenir Album. 2285:. Norman Hartnell. Cassell. 1971. 1658:, portrayed by Richard Clifford. 2329: 2106:"RCIN 250044 - Coronation dress" 1993:"Style History: Norman Hartnell" 1248:in 1977, Hartnell was appointed 919: 714:Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester 710:Lady Alice Montagu Douglas Scott 601: 377: 34: 1842:"Hartnell, Sir Norman Bishop". 930:needs additional citations for 388:needs additional citations for 45:needs additional citations for 2034:Alex, Ella; er (28 May 2020). 1875:Cope, Rebecca (12 June 2020). 1667:He was made an Officer of the 1453:The Return of Bulldog Drummond 254:1977, MVO 1953, Officier de l' 1: 1991:AnHistorian (22 April 2022). 1693:as a Knight Commander of the 1137:Following the early death of 2401:Victoria & Albert Museum 2193:' Hardy Amies' Michael Pick 1862:UK public library membership 1684:1953 Coronation Honours List 1669:Ordre des Palmes acadĂ©miques 1105:in 1947 for her marriage to 314:Magdalene College, Cambridge 256:Ordre des Palmes Academiques 2632:British Home Guard soldiers 2226:. GLBTQ Inc. Archived from 1928:Lucile - Her Life by Design 1739:www.fashionencyclopedia.com 1699:1977 New Years Honours List 1291:Margaret, Duchess of Argyll 1078:Neiman Marcus Fashion Award 1076:. In 1947, he received the 900:Prince George, Duke of Kent 716:. The two bridesmaids were 316:and read Modern Languages. 260:Neiman Marcus Fashion Award 2658: 2110:www.royalcollection.org.uk 1945:Victoria and Albert Museum 1036:restrictions, part of the 570:William Bruce Ellis Ranken 269:Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell 2602:English fashion designers 2563:List of grands couturiers 2289:Norman Hartnell 1901-1979 1376:resident of the past, ex- 1293:, she remained a client. 738:Elizabeth Handley-Seymour 155: 2077:"The Queen and Fashion" 2065:www.williamranken.org.uk 759:, the Queen ordered the 550:; even top French stars 2622:Wedding dress designers 2283:Royal Courts of Fashion 2173:ceres.mcu.es/pages/Main 2141:Louise Jackson (2017). 2128:fashion.telegraph.co.uk 2080:"The Queen and fashion" 1997:An Historian About Town 1607:Never Put It in Writing 1577:The Passionate Stranger 586:Charles Frederick Worth 365:was his second cousin. 213:University of Cambridge 1854:10.1093/ref:odnb/31209 1545:The Peterville Diamond 1352:, fellow designer for 1266: 1246:Queen's Silver Jubilee 1202: 1134: 1125:Hartnell designed the 1098: 1025: 668: 573: 492: 479:Wedding dress worn by 280:. Hartnell gained the 175:Norman Bishop Hartnell 2627:People from Streatham 2385:Fashion Encyclopedia. 1930:(2012), pp. 121, 287. 1695:Royal Victorian Order 1680:Royal Victorian Order 1598:(1959) (costumes for 1595:Suddenly, Last Summer 1264: 1198:Hartnell in 1973, by 1197: 1143:1953 Coronation dress 1124: 1091: 1059:City of London Police 1020: 666: 564: 478: 304:Early life and career 162:Hartnell in 1972, by 2338:at Wikimedia Commons 2169:"Hartnell - Londres" 1926:Randy Bryan Bigham, 1624:(1967) (TV episode: 1622:A Double in Diamonds 1524:(1941) (dresses for 1236:and TV cookery star 939:improve this article 702:British royal family 625:improve this section 397:improve this article 321:Cambridge University 54:improve this article 2617:Artists from London 2348:The Daily Telegraph 2299:The Journal of the 2086:on 29 February 2012 1708:for service in the 1644:Cultural depictions 1461:Brewster's Millions 1381:Renee Probert-Price 1279:Bishop of Southwark 1244:At the time of the 1063:Metropolitan Police 736:, then a client of 516:court presentations 508:Bright Young Things 18:Sir Norman Hartnell 2525:Jean Paul Gaultier 2515:Giambattista Valli 2485:Alexandre Vauthier 2354:on 31 October 2014 2230:on 31 October 2014 2220:"Amies, Sir Hardy" 2175:. 15 February 2012 1970:Town & Country 1796:Town & Country 1580:(1957) (gowns for 1569:Maytime in Mayfair 1421:That's a Good Girl 1354:Queen Elizabeth II 1267: 1203: 1135: 1099: 1026: 810:Cecilia Bowes-Lyon 718:Princess Elizabeth 669: 574: 530:(also a client of 493: 290:Queen Elizabeth II 201:Windsor, Berkshire 2569: 2568: 2403:. 13 August 2013. 2390:The Queen's robes 2334:Media related to 2250:"Norman Hartnell" 1860:(Subscription or 1615:The Beauty Jungle 1600:Katharine Hepburn 1582:Margaret Leighton 1561:The Demi-Paradise 1508:Design for Spring 1485:Non-Stop New York 1437:Princess Charming 1212:Gun'yuki Torimaru 1176:Princess Margaret 1111:Duke of Edinburgh 1015: 1014: 1007: 989: 954:"Norman Hartnell" 849:Elsa Schiaparelli 792:her wedding dress 772:portraits in the 750:Buckingham Palace 746:Westminster Abbey 722:Princess Margaret 661: 660: 653: 528:Gertrude Lawrence 473: 472: 465: 447: 412:"Norman Hartnell" 294:Princess Beatrice 284:as Dressmaker to 266: 265: 184:, London, England 130: 129: 122: 104: 69:"Norman Hartnell" 16:(Redirected from 2649: 2548:StĂ©phane Rolland 2539:Maurizio Galante 2458: 2451: 2444: 2435: 2429: 2426:British PathĂ© TV 2417: 2404: 2377: 2363: 2361: 2359: 2350:. 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Sir Norman Hartnell

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Allan Warren
Streatham
Windsor, Berkshire
University of Cambridge
Coronation gown of Queen Elizabeth II
William Hartnell
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Ordre des Palmes Academiques
Neiman Marcus Fashion Award
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