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Smocking refers to work done before a garment is assembled. It usually involves reducing the dimensions of a piece of fabric to one-third of its original width, although changes are sometimes lesser with thick fabrics. Individual smocking stitches also vary considerably in tightness, so embroiderers
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Since the early 1950s, pleating machines have been available to home smockers. Using gears and specialty pleater needles, the fabric is forced through the gears and onto the threaded needles. Pleating machines are typically offered in 16-row, 24-row and 32-row widths.
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and is unusual among embroidery methods in that it was often worn by labourers. Other major embroidery styles are purely decorative and represented status symbols. Smocking was practical for garments to be both form fitting and flexible, hence its name derives from
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Early smocking, or gauging, was done by hand. Some embroiderers also made their own guides using cardboard and an embroidery marking pencil. By 1880, iron-on transfer dots were available and advertised in magazines such as
227:: a medium density variant on the cable stitch that double stitches each set of gathers and provides more spacing between them, with an intervening diagonal stitch concealed on the reverse side of the fabric.
213:: a set of gathers worked in three rows of stitches across four columns of gathers. Often organized in diagonally arranged sets of flowerettes for loose smocking.
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in cotton or silk thread and normally requires three times the width of initial material as the finished item will have. Historically, smocking was also worked in
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234:: a tight variant on the honeycomb stitch and the wave stitch with the diagonal stitch visible, but spanning only one gather instead of a gather and a space.
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135:. The iron-on transfers places evenly spaced dots onto the wrong side of the fabric, which were then pleated using a regular running stitch.
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73:— an agricultural labourer's work shirt. Smocking was used most extensively in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
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255:: a complex knotted stitch that joins several gathers in a single stitch. Organized similarly to cable flowerettes.
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220:: a medium density pattern that alternately employs tight horizontal stitches and loose diagonal stitches.
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241:: a medium density pattern that uses stem stitches and outline stitches to form diamond-shaped patterns.
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179:. Then a row of cable stitching (see "A") stabilizes the top and bottom of the working area.
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in a grid pattern on the wrong side of the fabric and gathering it with temporary
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demonstrating various stitches. See accompanying text in the article for details.
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Smocking requires lightweight fabric with a stable weave that gathers well.
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192:: a tight stitch of double rows that joins alternating columns of gathers.
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for practice and reference when they begin to learn smocking.
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used to finish work with a thread or for decorative purposes.
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Smocking may be done in many sophisticated patterns.
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Smocking on the collar of a sixteenth-century garment
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167:Traditional hand smocking begins with marking
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541:, Pleasantville, New York: Marabout, 2004.
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58:were undesirable. Smocking developed in
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185:Standard hand smocking stitches are:
539:Complete Guide to Embroidery Stitches
382:"2005 SAGA Glossary - Smocking Terms"
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89:are typical fiber choices, often in
1398:Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum
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537:The Reader's Digest Association,
62:and has been practised since the
555:, New York: Hearst Books, 1994.
42:, smocking was commonly used in
1282:Juanita Growing Thunder Fogarty
350:Gilman, Elizabeth Hale (1917).
38:so that it can stretch. Before
1403:Han Sang Soo Embroidery Museum
1373:Embroiderers' Guild of America
1327:Charles Germain de Saint Aubin
573:Smocking Arts Guild of America
489:Smocking Arts Guild of America
389:Smocking Arts Guild of America
285:Embroiderers' Guild of America
277:Smocking Arts Guild of America
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1383:Needlework Development Scheme
371:Reader's Digest, pp. 161–162.
340:Reader's Digest, pp. 160–161.
1272:Shahin Ebrahimzadeh-Pezeshki
123:Fabric can be gathered into
1393:Wemyss School of Needlework
1203:Magna Carta (An Embroidery)
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588:Examples of historic smocks
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1388:Royal School of Needlework
1239:Scottish Diaspora Tapestry
1180:Great Tapestry of Scotland
593:Glossary of Smocking Terms
578:Smocking Arts Guild of NSW
514:Smocking Arts Guild of NSW
331:Good Housekeeping, p. 146.
281:Smocking Arts Guild of NSW
262:: (not depicted) a simple
97:. Smocking is worked on a
16:Craft embroidery technique
1337:Dimitri Vlachos - Castano
1255:Designersand embroiderers
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352:"Things Girls Like to Do"
34:technique used to gather
1368:Embroiderers' Guild (UK)
1361:Organizationsand museums
1209:Margaret Layton's jacket
474:Reader's Digest, p. 169.
462:Reader's Digest, p. 168.
450:Reader's Digest, p. 167.
441:Reader's Digest, p. 166.
432:Reader's Digest, p. 165.
420:Reader's Digest, p. 164.
408:Reader's Digest, p. 163.
315:Reader's Digest, p. 160.
232:Surface honeycomb stitch
127:in a variety of ways.
583:The History of Smocking
1292:Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum
949:Regionaland historical
824:Couching and laid work
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116:. According to
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1347:Erica Wilson
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1158:Embroideries
1134:Sewed muslin
1087:Mountmellick
1055:Bunka shishu
971:Bunka shishu
859:Satin stitch
819:Chain stitch
737:
688:Cross-stitch
552:
538:
532:Bibliography
519:December 11,
517:. Retrieved
513:
504:
494:December 11,
492:. Retrieved
488:
485:"About SAGA"
479:
446:
437:
404:
392:. Retrieved
388:
376:
367:
355:. Retrieved
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279:(SAGA), the
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190:Cable stitch
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27:
26:
1302:Ann Macbeth
1267:Leon Conrad
1262:Emilie Bach
1044:Kogin-zashi
879:Tent stitch
728:Needlepoint
653:Berlin work
297:Smock-frock
218:Wave stitch
197:Stem stitch
151:A smocking
64:Middle Ages
1465:Embroidery
1439:Needlework
1352:Lily Yeats
1307:May Morris
1149:Vyshyvanka
1144:Vietnamese
1082:Macedonian
920:Plainweave
895:Aida cloth
814:Buttonhole
799:Backstitch
629:Embroidery
510:"About Us"
394:January 5,
357:January 5,
303:References
283:, and the
32:embroidery
1139:Ukrainian
991:Cantonese
966:Brazilian
910:Evenweave
758:Whitework
743:Stumpwork
733:Quillwork
713:Hardanger
658:Blackwork
77:Materials
52:necklines
1459:Category
1444:Quilting
1429:Knitting
1419:Appliqué
1028:Jacobean
849:Parisian
792:Stitches
738:Smocking
708:Goldwork
648:Bargello
291:See also
133:Weldon's
114:cashmere
28:Smocking
1424:Crochet
1412:Related
1129:Rushnyk
1117:Zardozi
1097:Persian
1035:Sashiko
1023:Islamic
1013:English
996:Sichuan
986:Chinese
976:Burmese
961:Balochi
930:Sampler
864:Sashiko
854:Running
844:Holbein
804:Blanket
748:Surface
723:Machine
698:Darning
693:Cutwork
162:sampler
153:sampler
143:Methods
60:England
56:buttons
48:bodices
40:elastic
1112:Sistan
1107:Sermeh
1077:Korean
1072:Kasuti
1067:Kantha
1062:Kaitag
1018:Indian
1001:Suzhou
981:Chikan
869:Shisha
753:Suzani
718:Hedebo
683:Crewel
643:Assisi
636:Styles
559:
545:
125:pleats
112:, and
102:needle
83:Cotton
50:, and
36:fabric
30:is an
1102:Rasht
1006:Xiang
385:(PDF)
106:piqué
95:voile
70:smock
44:cuffs
1434:Lace
940:Yarn
935:Slip
557:ISBN
543:ISBN
521:2018
496:2018
396:2008
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251:J.
244:I.
237:H.
230:G.
223:F.
216:E.
209:D.
202:C.
195:B.
188:A.
93:or
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413:^
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