39:
966:
278:) encounter extreme difficulties in the higher part of the route, as Nothdurft becomes ill and Longhi, who is suffering from severe frostbite, falls near "the Spider" and cannot be lifted by his companions. Corti (who has been in turn hit by a falling stone) becomes the first man rescued from the face from above in a famous 54-man rescue action (first undertaken by volunteer climbers and non-Swiss guides) when German guide Alfred Hellepart is lowered from the summit on a steel cable by
839:
980:
924:
162:
438:
1962: Two young climbers finished the climb just after Clough and
Bonington (who overtook them); their names were withheld to avert a flood of ascents of the Eiger's north face. They were very young, their equipment was rudimentary, and the letter they left their parents galvanized police action; the
290:
Claudio Corti, being the sole survivor, was quite wrongly castigated by some quarters of the international press and was held responsible for the disappearance of the two German climbers
Northdurft and Mayer (Northdurft had already soloed to the Swallows Nest and back). He was accused of various dark
286:
on their descent of the Eiger's west face after completing the 14th ascent of the north face (they had left the injured Corti with all their provisionsâincluding a small tentâand were trying to descend from the mountain and call rescue). The body of Longhi remained on the face for more than two years
307:
1959: Adolf
Derungs and Lucas Albrecht, two Swiss masons, climb the face with very primitive equipment. Derungs wore four shirts one on top of another and Albrecht carried an old overcoat as far as the Spider. Both students, brave to the point of rashness and very tough, descend by night by the west
936:
2011 (20 April): Daniel Arnold (Switzerland) solos the face in 2 hours 28 minutes, using the fixed ropes on the
Hinterstoisser Traverse. Arnold was 19 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2008, but Steck climbed the route entirely without aid and, unlike Arnold, completed the route in the official
413:
aborted his only attempt at the North face (arriving ahead of a large rescue team) to rescue Brian Nally, a
British climber whose companion, Barry Brewster, had fallen and was badly injured on the Second Icefield. Brewster's body eventually 'fell from the face' and Nally was brought down to
258:
1950 (July 26): Fourth ascent in one very long day with a bivouac on the summit by Leo
Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak. They overtake Swiss climbers Jean Fuchs, Marcel Hamel, Raymond Monney, and Robert Seiler, who achieve the fifth ascent on 27
25:
mountain in
Switzerland starts in the 1800s. It is split between the pre-north face era, when the main summits and easier ridges and faces were climbed, and the post-north face era, when it became one of the greatest prizes in
615:. This was the first Alpine Style ascent of the North Face in winter - completing the climb from bottom to top in one push. It was also the first time the face had been climbed in winter without recourse to fixed ropes.
291:
deeds, even of pushing the
Germans off the face. Corti actually thought he had done the first Italian ascent of the face until it was pointed out that he had finished the climb tied to the back of another climber.
1338:
1281:
495:
1965 (August): Harry
Stewart, Mitchell Millar (UK) Al & Tad Katzmarek (Polish) reach the Ramp, Stewart and Katzmarek cousins retreat, Millar solo to the summit.
1415:
1009:
1187:
1124:
485:
1963 (27â31 December): Three Swiss guides complete the first descent of the face, retrieving the bodies of
Navarro and RabadĂĄ from the "White Spider."
999:
829:
1997: Benedetto Salaroli, aged 72, becomes the oldest man to ascend the face, climbing it in a single day with guides Ueli BĂŒhler and Kobi Reichen.
994:
1484:
940:
2014 (14 March): Mark Salamon solos the face via the classic route - the first Hungarian climber to make any solo ascent of the North Face.
38:
1479:
435:. Scottish climber Tommy Carruthers and his Austrian climbing partner were below Bonnington & Clough when they fell to their deaths.
1469:
1143:
1105:
1285:
243:
1445:
1169:
1339:"adidas Outdoor Athletes Sasha DiGiulian And Carlo Traversi Free Climb Magic Mushroom... - LOS ANGELES, Aug. 29, 2015 /PRNewswire/"
1004:
304:
route from the Eigerâboth had been killed by an avalancheâDiemberger and Stefan were finally awarded the 14th ascent of the face.
78:
536:(they reach the summit on 25 March, after one month's siege). The new route is named the "John Harlin Route" in Harlin's honour.
1229:
1218:
947:
becomes the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.
578:
1971: Peter Siegert and Martin Biock are winched from above Death Bivouac to a helicopter, the first such successful rescue.
1359:
1494:
785:
1489:
201:
1474:
900:
and Stephan Ruoss better the team record (SchÀli and Anthamatten), climbing the Heckmair route in 6 hours, 10 minutes.
282:
rescue system. Longhi is not so lucky and dies of exposure before he can be rescued. Meyer and Nothdurft died in an
397:
1203:
843:
85:
ascent instead, but his finances did not allow him to travel there as he was already staying in the Eiger region.
1245:
149:
1932: First ascent of the northeast face ("Lauper route") by Hans Lauper, Alfred ZĂŒrcher, Alexander Graven, and
105:
1871: First ascent by the southwest ridge, 14 July (Christian Almer, Christian Bohren, and Ulrich Almer guiding
432:
539:
1968 (28â31 July): First ascent of the north pillar, by a Polish team: Krzysztof Cielecki, Tadeusz Ćaukajtys,
1263:
1184:
893:
2008 (13 February): Ueli Steck breaks his own record, soloing the face in 2 hours, 47 minutes and 33 seconds.
300:
and Wolfgang Stefan make the thirteenth ascent. As the bodies of Nothdurft and Meyer were found later on the
88:
1861 (27 July): Second ascent, by Sigismund Porges with the guides Christian Michel, Hans, and Peter Baumann.
1121:
263:
185:
721:
1983 (21 Marchâ2 April â 13 days on the wall): First winter solo ascent and a new route on the face (the
812:
1990 (14â15 January): Slavko SvetiÄiÄ solo climbs the Harlin route in 26 hours, its first winter ascent.
740:
511:
92:
887:
774:
757:
540:
308:
flank. Three years later, in 1962, Derungs disappears while attempting a solo ascent of the north face.
275:
443:
334:
323:
238:
56:
852:
823:
673:
565:
461:
1310:
472:
392:
363:
267:
170:
1934: First attempt on the face, by Willy Beck, Kurt Löwinger, and Georg Löwinger, reaching 2,900 m.
816:
726:
345:
124:
876:
701:
645:
612:
374:
30:. At least sixty-four climbers have died while attempting the ascent (mainly via the north face).
1409:
950:
2015 (12 November): New team ascent record by Ueli Steck and Nicolas Hojac in 3 hours 46 minutes.
890:
set a new record for a team ascent (of the Heckmair route) climbing it in 6 hours and 50 minutes.
684:
271:
522:
1035:
1441:
1165:
799:
279:
106:
96:
1112:(in Polish). Retrieved 2010-03-16; earlier reference, see: "Taternik" No 3-4/1966 (in Polish)
753:
1984 (21 July): Slovene Slavko (Miroslav) SvetiÄiÄ. A classic route, a solo climb in 8 hours.
745:
516:
1434:
971:
953:
2015 (17 November): Ueli Steck climbs the Heckmair Route in 2 hours 22 minutes 50.7 seconds.
589:
582:
421:, Pierlorenzo Acquistapace, Gildo Airoldi, Andrea Mellano, Romano Perego, and Franco Solina.
1140:
1102:
838:
779:
762:
545:
1397:
1233:
1222:
1191:
1147:
1128:
1109:
944:
872:(Switzerland) breaks Christoph Hainz's record, soloing the face in 3 hours and 54 minutes.
795:
1987 (19â21 September): Hungarian climbers Jozsef Himer, Peter Szabadka, and Gabor Berecz.
659:
601:
477:
410:
368:
297:
212:
208:
117:
70:
52:
48:
448:
339:
328:
979:
862:
breaks Bubendorfer's record by ten minutes, climbing the face in 4 hours and 40 minutes.
731:
1464:
1058:
857:
750:
soloes the face without a rope in 4 hours and 50 minutes, almost halving BĂŒhler's time.
623:
619:
597:
466:
359:
319:
231:
220:
216:
174:
128:
81:). According to Harrer's "The White Spider," Barrington would have attempted the first
27:
1085:
881:
710:
706:
379:
1458:
593:
561:
507:
227:
197:
193:
178:
110:
100:
1226:
1215:
689:
1325:
923:
911:
641:
418:
406:
350:
150:
136:
74:
527:
650:
1363:
985:
907:
897:
789:
634:
630:
568:, Pete Minks, and Cliff Phillips (GB) make the first complete film of the climb.
499:
425:
143:
492:
becomes the first woman to reach the summit via the face (with Werner Bittner).
961:
869:
608:
489:
82:
607:
1975: Second winter and the first British winter ascent of the 1938 route by
283:
189:
132:
42:
Brawand, Maki, Steuri and Amatter after their ascent of the Mittellegi ridge
1059:"Strange and Dangerous Dreams: the Fine Line between Adventure and Madness"
532:, GĂŒnter Strobel and Roland Votteler, and they go on to complete the first
161:
698:
60:
572:
181:. They froze to death at 3,300 m, a place now known as "Death Bivouac."
142:
1924: First ski ascent and descent via the Eiger glacier by Englishman
95:, who was part of a group of six guides (including Christian Almer and
903:
2008 (31 May): Ueli Steck is presented with the inaugural Eiger Award.
618:
1977: First alpine-style ascent of the Eiger Direct (Harlin Route) by
865:
2007 (9 April): Christophe Profit guides the face for the tenth time.
655:, Janusz Skorek and Jan Wolf, the fastest winter ascent at that time.
388:
1305:
Melissa Thomasma, "'FreeBASE': Dean Potter on the Eiger Nordwand",
1162:
Shisha Pangma: The Alpine Style First Ascent of the South-West Face
1103:
wspinanie.pl, Eiger part 3, Polish ascents (â1961 Droga Klasyczna)
922:
837:
767:
soloes the north face in the first solo winter ascent in 10 hours.
457:
160:
37:
21:
1311:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-potter-eiger-freebase
718:
1982: First American winter ascent by Harry Kent and Keith Lober.
204:
during severe weather conditions on a retreat from Death Bivouac.
146:
and the Swiss Fritz Amacher, Walter Amstutz, and Willy Richardet.
575:
ascent of the face by Renaat Van Malderen and Vincent de Waele.
431:
1962: First British ascent of the face, by Chris Bonington and
914:
from the top using an ultralight rig he wore during the climb.
226:
1947 (July 14â16): Second ascent of the face by the Frenchmen
123:
1921 (10 September): First ascent via the Mittellegi ridge by
672:
1981: First British solo ascent of the face by Welsh climber
1087:
Claudio Corti (1928-2010): A Life in the Shadow of the Eiger
788:" (Eiger, Matterhorn, and Grandes Jorasses) in one outing ('
585:, Danuta Gellner-Wach and Stefania Egierszdorff. All Polish.
91:
1864 (27 July): Fourth ascent, and first ascent by a woman,
1141:
wspinanie.pl, Eiger part 3, Polish ascents (â1968) N Pillar
120:
and Christian Jossi guiding C. W. Mead and G. F. Woodroffe.
819:
solos Metanoia on the north face in winter without bolts.
1216:
destivelle.com, Catherine Destivelle solo ascents, Eiger
910:(US) free-solos Deep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the face, then
600:
first all US team climb the face en route home from the
1402:
The White Spider: The History of the Eiger's North Face
318:
1961 (6â12 March): First winter ascent of the face by
237:
1947 (August 4â5): Third ascent by the Swiss climbers
1282:"Ueli Steck scales new heights with 2008 Eiger award"
502:
falls to his death while attempting a new route: the
498:
1966 (March 22): After a fixed rope break, American
442:
1963 (2â3 August): First solo ascent of the face by
1090:, article by Luca Signorelli. Retrieved 2010-03-16.
1433:
1122:wspinanie.pl, Eiger part 2, routes, N Pillar/ridge
506:, or "most direct" route. His colleague, Scotsman
59:. They did manage the first ascent of neighboring
1246:"Ueli Steck speed record on Eiger Heckmair route"
1075:. London: Poets' and Painters' Press. p. 35.
802:climbs the face while nearly six months pregnant.
1204:Christophe Profit Ten Times the Eiger North Face
1185:wspinanie.pl Eiger part 2, routes (PochylĂœ solo)
770:1985: Second British solo ascent by Steve Monks.
640:1978: First Polish winter ascent of the face by
596:climb the face in 10 hours. Chris Kopcznski and
184:1936: (July) Four Austrian and German climbers,
1423:Pagel, David (1999). "My Dinner with Anderl".
1098:
1096:
417:1962: First all-Italian ascent of the face by
1309:, August 13, 2008, accessed August 29, 2008,
1010:List of mountains of Switzerland above 3000 m
581:1973: First All Female Ascent of the face by
439:police were waiting for them on their return.
8:
1164:. Seattle, WA, USA: The Mountaineers Books.
1030:
1028:
1026:
822:1992 (9 March): First female solo ascent by
424:1962: First American ascent of the face by
1414:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (
1045:
1043:
694:soloes the face in 8 hours and 30 minutes.
676:, filmed by Leo Dickinson and released as
99:) and five clients, including her brother
1036:Chronology of the Eiger from 1252 to 2013
1225:Retrieved 2010-03-16. Available also in
1000:List of highest mountains of Switzerland
248:, Karl Schlunegger and Gottfried Jermann
207:1938: First ascent of the north face by
1022:
995:List of mountains of the canton of Bern
1407:
1321:
1319:
1427:. Golden, Colorado: AAC Press: 13â26.
1160:Scott, Doug; Alex MacIntyre (2000) .
7:
1440:. London: Jonathan Cape Publishers.
387:1961 (31 Augustâ2 September): First
358:1961 (30 Augustâ2 September): First
1404:(in German) (3rd ed.). London.
896:2008 (23 February): Swiss climbers
1360:"Ueli Steck on www.movescount.com"
1326:"Eiger Speed Record - Dani Arnold"
1194:(in Polish). Retrieved 2010-03-16.
1150:(in Polish). Retrieved 2010-03-16.
1131:(in Polish). Retrieved 2010-03-16.
875:2008 (28 January): Swiss climbers
658:1978: First winter solo ascent by
34:First ascents (pre-north face era)
14:
1034:Daniel Anker and Rainer Rettner,
453:, in around 18 hours of climbing.
402:and Jan Mostowski (20th overall).
1328:, ukclimbing.com, 25 April 2011.
1264:"Eiger Team Record Bested Again"
1005:List of mountains of Switzerland
978:
964:
826:(France), in 17 hours in winter.
157:1930s and 1940s (north face era)
1341:(Press release). Prnewswire.com
1073:Stefano, we shall come tomorrow
683:1981 (25 August): Swiss guide
510:, joins the competing team of
116:1890: First ascent in winter,
67:1858 (11 August): First ascent
55:guiding the Viennese alpinist
1:
1485:Mountaineering in Switzerland
1061:, Geoff Powter, 2006, p. 165.
792:') of 42 hours and in winter.
488:1964 (1â3 September): German
173:1935: Attempt by the Germans
1392:. Seattle: The Mountaineers.
715:soloes the face in 6 hours.
428:, with German Konrad Kirch.
270:) and two German climbers (
1511:
1480:Mountaineering in the Alps
1470:History of mountaineering
1390:Eiger: The Vertical Arena
844:Lower Grindelwald Glacier
739:1983 (27 July): Austrian
223:, achieved in three days.
1071:Skoczylas, Adam (1962).
287:before being recovered.
18:The recorded history of
47:1857: First attempt by
1388:Anker, Daniel (2000).
932:
847:
633:ascent of the face by
456:1963 (15 August): Two
391:ascent of the face by
362:ascent of the face by
186:Andreas Hinterstoisser
166:
51:, Christian Kaufmann,
43:
1436:The Beckoning Silence
1432:Simpson, Joe (2002).
926:
841:
756:1985: French climber
164:
69:, by the west flank (
41:
1495:Sport in Grindelwald
868:2007 (21 February):
824:Catherine Destivelle
773:1987 (11â12 March):
1490:History of the Alps
280:Ludwig Gramminger's
262:1957: Two Italian (
1475:Regional timelines
1250:planetmountain.com
1232:2012-11-30 at the
1221:2015-05-28 at the
1190:2011-10-04 at the
1146:2012-01-17 at the
1127:2011-10-04 at the
1108:2012-01-17 at the
943:2015 (29 August):
933:
848:
842:Rockfall onto the
786:north face trilogy
741:Thomas Bubendorfer
723:ideal direttissima
512:Siegfried Hupfauer
167:
79:Charles Barrington
44:
906:2008 (7 August):
888:Simon Anthamatten
851:2003 (24 March):
846:valley, July 2006
800:Alison Hargreaves
775:Christophe Profit
758:Christophe Profit
637:and Bas Gresnigt.
541:Ryszard Szafirski
482:, die in a storm.
276:Gunther Nothdurft
107:W. A. B. Coolidge
97:Melchior Anderegg
1502:
1451:
1439:
1428:
1419:
1413:
1405:
1398:Harrer, Heinrich
1393:
1375:
1374:
1372:
1371:
1362:. Archived from
1356:
1350:
1349:
1347:
1346:
1335:
1329:
1323:
1314:
1303:
1297:
1296:
1294:
1293:
1284:. Archived from
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1038:
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969:
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654:
590:Reinhold Messner
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531:
520:
481:
470:
452:
444:Michel Darbellay
401:
383:
372:
354:
343:
335:Walter Almberger
332:
324:Anderl Mannhardt
247:
239:Hans Schlunegger
202:died on the face
57:Sigismund Porges
20:climbing of the
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1223:Wayback Machine
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648:
602:Pamir Mountains
557:
543:
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464:
462:Ernesto Navarro
446:
411:Chris Bonington
395:
384:(19th overall).
377:
366:
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326:
315:
298:Kurt Diemberger
255:
241:
213:Heinrich Harrer
209:Anderl Heckmair
159:
118:Ulrich Kaufmann
71:Christian Almer
53:Ulrich Kaufmann
49:Christian Almer
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931:) of the Eiger
927:The mushroom (
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409:climbing with
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393:StanisĆaw Biel
385:
364:Radovan KuchaĆ
356:
320:Toni Kinshofer
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311:
310:
309:
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268:Stefano Longhi
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232:Louis Lachenal
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217:Fritz Kasparek
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175:Karl Mehringer
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129:Samuel Brawand
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1366:on 2015-11-18
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629:1977: First
613:Dick Renshaw
571:1971: First
534:direttissima
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419:Armando Aste
407:Don Whillans
375:Zdeno ZibrĂn
360:Czechoslovak
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151:Josef Knubel
137:Fritz Steuri
75:Peter Bohren
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1382:Works cited
986:Alps portal
908:Dean Potter
898:Dani Arnold
880: [
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144:Arnold Lunn
93:Lucy Walker
1459:Categories
1370:2015-11-17
1345:2015-08-30
1292:2008-07-02
1017:References
912:BASE jumps
870:Ueli Steck
678:Eiger Solo
674:Eric Jones
609:Joe Tasker
566:Eric Jones
523:Jörg Lehne
490:Daisy Voog
460:climbers,
433:Ian Clough
198:Edi Rainer
83:Matterhorn
1410:cite book
817:Jeff Lowe
622:(UK) and
284:avalanche
190:Toni Kurz
133:Yuko Maki
1400:(1959).
1307:Alpinist
1230:Archived
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958:See also
77:guiding
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573:Belgian
458:Spanish
414:safety.
302:descent
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