421:
272:
394:, it was originally produced as the Polarouter in 1954, appearing with a Cal 138SS Bumper movement. The following year it was replaced with the innovative Cal 215 microtor movement which, with minor changes and a name change (from Polarouter to Polerouter, in 1955), was produced until late 1969. In its initial fifteen years of production, the watch was produced in many variations including the
383:
476:
was a cost-efficient alternative to automatic complications, which were considerably more expensive and more time-consuming to produce, and could not compete with the mass-produced growth of electronic movements. In particular, the Golden and White
Shadows, which previously contained microtors, would
279:
After the pocketwatch started to lose usefulness in favor of the more convenient wristwatch during the first world war, Universal seized the opportunity by creating the Compur in 1933 and the Aero Compax ("Aviator's
Compact Chronograph") in 1936, shortly before the start of World War II. In addition
369:
had supplied movements for many of
Universal Genève's chronographic timepieces since 1918, with Universal adapting the complications as Cal 285's. However, the mechanisms would be rechristened as Zenith 146's, 146D's and 146H's when competing Le Locle watchmaker
527:
After a difficult period in the 1980s and 1990s, Universal Genève released a series of watches with a new micro-rotor calibre which revisited the company's earlier success. Although still headquartered in Geneva, Universal Genève was purchased in 1989 by
838:
Among the rarest and most expensive of
Universal Genève timepieces includes the 'Golden Janus', a 1994 centennial of the 1930s Cabriolet, which were limited to 10 in number and have realized at an upwards $ 50,000 (43,700 CHF) at auction.
488:
Since the innovation of quartz technology had originated in Japan, Universal began to focus most of its attention on the Asian watch market, since a significant portion of company revenue was already centered in Hong Kong. Although
720:
guard Lt. Jack
Wheelis the night before his scheduled execution. While Wheelis' family maintained that the gift was a friendly gesture, historians have long attributed the wristwatch as being a bribe for the
846:, the wristwatch was produced only sporadically between 1939 and 1945 and was originally meant for the Royal Italian Air Force (Regia Aeronautica Italiana). At private dealers and auction houses such as
357:
dial rimmed with diamonds and manufactured in either gold, stainless steel or platinum metals. The feminine cuff watch, which earned
Universal Genève the title of "watch couturier", was sold in affluent
1598:
997:"Pour Hermès Universal, Genève, case No. 605738. Made for Hermès circa 1935. Very fine and extremely rare 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button chronograph, register, telemeter and tachometer"
533:
633:
appeared in a print campaign promoting
Universal Genève, with Neiman pictured in his studio wearing a Universal Genève Golden Janus and his oil paintings displayed in the foreground.
311:
balance spring, and an Arabic-numeral dial. Hermès' Paris headquarters would in turn act as a major sales hub for all
Universal brand watches in Europe until the 1950s, while the
1806:
1811:
544:, an acquisition which expanded the manufacture's fame in Japanese and North American markets, and led to stylistic collaborations with other watch or jewelry firms such as
1680:
452:
During the 1970s, Universal had been one of the few Swiss watch brands to introduce a quartz movement and phase out automatics, coinciding with an era now known as the "
540:, another high-end Swiss watchmaker whose patents had been owned by Universal since 1918. During the late 1960s and early 1970s, Universal was owned by New York-based
996:
409:
pilots who made flights over the arctic. The worldwide acclaim of the
Polerouter Date was comparable to the reputation of similar Genève automatics like the Rolex
1816:
1821:
835:
cited the market value of most
Universal Genève watches from the 1960s as approximately ranging between $ 2,500–$ 3,500 (figures adjusted to 2010 inflation)
432:
movements at the time, with a thickness of only 2.3mm. This record was held until 1978. The Shadows were also designed by Genta and were available in
587:
Many celebrities, writers, business executives and diplomats from around the globe have owned both contemporary and vintage Universal Genève watches:
747:, recalled receiving a Universal Genève chronometer wristwatch as a young man and still wearing it at the present, according to a personal memoir.
708:
goods had been exported to international buyers with no basis on their country's alliance, reputation or political standing in the world. Although
1318:
1826:
560:
842:
Universal Genève's 'A. Cairelli Rattrapante', an aviator's chronograph, consists of a 24-hour dial with a 16-minute register. Manufactured in
1758:
1409:
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874:
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Following Perret's death in 1933, his son would take over management and Universal would remain a family-run business for thirty more years.
1446:
326:
Universal's popularity with the chronographs caught the attention of high-ranking government officials throughout Europe, including the
1738:"Universal. A unusual and rare oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch with 24 hour dial – Sale 1326 / Lot 95"
1501:
1476:
1377:
1276:
1047:
1426:"UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Senna" Chronometer Officially Certified, No. 41, Ref. 198.310. Donated by Donald J. Trump and Universal Genève"
744:
1685:
515:, the international marketing strategies and venture to quartz proved economically devastating for the brand, causing loss of
194:
396:
Polerouter de luxe, Polerouter Jet, Polerouter Super, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III,
27:
478:
335:
307:("For Hermès") chronographs, which featured square button registers, telemeters and tachometers, a movement containing a
1000:
252:
for both sides during World War I. By 1925, the duo created the brand's first patented self-winding timepiece called the
1292:
954:
331:
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405:. The Polerouter's durability under extreme temperatures and fluctuating altitudes made it a preferred timepiece among
1801:
1658:"Universal Genève, "Golden Janus Cabriolet", produced for the 100th Anniversary of Universal in April 1994 - Lot #149"
1553:
500:
758:'s extensive watch collection included Universal Genèves. Many pieces were customized with his face and the nation's
172:
1447:"Universal. A fine and unusual 18K pink gold and enamel wristwatch, presumably presented to General Hector Trujillo"
1086:
232:
After Descombes' death in 1897 at the age of 34, Perret recruited Louis Edouard Berthoud as a co-manufacturer of
811:
owned a 14k gold Universal Genève dress watch which he gifted to his personal doctor in Las Vegas in the 1970s.
292:. The Compax was produced in many variations including the Moon Phase, Medico, Tri-, Uni-, and Master Vortex.
221:
students at the time. Although Universal began only as a manufacturer and retailer of cases, crowns, dials and
205:, co-founder Ulysse Perret would relocate Universal to Geneva in 1919, solidifying the company's status as a
320:
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as the White Shadow. Both watches contained the Caliber 2-66 micro rotor movement up until the late 1960s.
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1554:"UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Golden Shadow" model, Ref. 115.507. Donated by Joan Rivers and Universal Genève"
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owned a Golden Shadow before both actors donated their watches to Antiquorum. Actor and comedian
778:
was an outspoken fan of Universal Genève's style of manufacture, and a limited line of Universal
687:
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Arguably the most well-known Universal watch of the post-war era was the Polerouter. Designed by
327:
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in the mid to late 1960s, leading to this particular model being nicknamed the "Eric Clapton".
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It was announced on 12th December 2023, that Stelux Holdings had sold Universal Genève to
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to its automatic "smooth sweep" timekeeping, the Compax was also equipped with a built-in
155:
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boarding school in Switzerland, and cited the brand as piquing his interest in watches.
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worldwide and was most popular among actresses, socialites and wives of world leaders.
151:
693:
owned a pink gold and enamel Universal Genève, ostensibly given as a diplomatic gift.
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1533:"UNIVERSAL GENEVE "Compax", Ref. 184.440. Donated by Jon Voight and Universal Genève"
1215:
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611:. As the limited edition watch bears Senna's name, proceeds from sales were to endow
453:
428:
The Golden Shadow and White Shadow were first produced in 1965 and were the thinnest
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after relocating to Geneva. Under both trademarks, the horologists created various
147:
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955:"Universal Watch, Genève, Autorem, circa 1925. Swiss Patents No. 91051 and 91463"
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among its holding companies, and in effect, the popularity of the brand itself.
433:
177:
150:. Since its beginnings, the company has produced complete watches with in-house
51:
1122:"Universal Genève White Shadow / Gilt Shadow: Impressions of a very thin watch"
1319:"t's Back! Universal Genève To Relaunch Under The Same Ownership As Breitling"
785:
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338:'s initials embossed on the dial. The Dutch army utilized this watch up until
133:
37:
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1101:
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382:
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170:, Universal is internationally regarded for its style of craftsmanship as a
300:
225:, the company whilst under Perret and Descombes patented the brand's first
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in 1939 to issue a military watch for the nation's army, with then-Queen
218:
202:
1084:
Kong, W. W. (August 26, 2011). "The Allure of the Vintage Chronograph".
256:, an octagon-shaped men's wristwatch with lozenge-styled hands and a 15-
197:
Universal Genève logo circa 1937, designed by Ulysse Perret's son, Raoul
1269:
Manufacturing Time: Global Competition in the Watch Industry, 1795–2000
940:
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owned a Universal Genève Senna watch before donating the timepiece to
26:
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During the same period, Universal briefly collaborated with Parisian
82:
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donned a panda dial Tri-Compax during his years with the rock band
670:
was a wearer of a Universal Tri-Compax, as was 33rd U.S. President
736:
419:
381:
270:
192:
167:
139:
111:
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in May of the same year and occupied the Netherlands until 1945.
323:, would be an official Universal Genève dealer in North America.
1293:"The Swiss Watch Industry - Watch producers (direct FH members)"
751:
461:
448:
1970–1980s: Decrease in automatic and mechanical wind production
349:
For female civilians during that era, Universal distributed the
217:
in 1894 with classmate Numa-Emile Descombes, both of whom were
796:
owned and donned a Universal Genève dress watch in the 1970s.
374:
acquired Martel, and effectively all of its patents, by 1960.
100:
1343:
Melton, Mary (November 1996). "The Country Club Collection".
209:
brand. During the company's tenure in much smaller Le Locle (
1759:"This Super-Rare 1940s Chronograph Is $ 90,000 for a Reason"
1781:
654:
Universal Genève Tri-Compax from his uncle while attending
615:, an anti-poverty charity started by his sister, Vivianne.
121:
858:
have closed between an estimated $ 90,000 and $ 130,000.
472:
for its dials, cases, bands and bracelets, the switch to
1364:
Marking Time: Collecting Watches and Thinking about Time
638:
Marking Time: Collecting Watches and Thinking about Time
176:. Universal Genève is known for creating the first-ever
1469:
Hitler and the Nazi leaders: a unique insight into evil
1217:
Trade and investment in China: the European experience
563:, maintains three offices in Switzerland and oversees
267:
1930s–1950s: The Chronograph and "Watch Couturier" era
236:, and both briefly operated under the registered name
284:
which made it a suitable device for soldiers during
117:
107:
90:
77:
67:
57:
47:
33:
1681:National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors
1361:
933:Modern jewelry: an international survey, 1890–1967
213:region), Perret had conceptualized the company as
762:on the dial, and gifted to visiting dignitaries.
559:As of 2011, Universal is an active member of the
1599:"Lot #365 ELVIS PRESLEY GOLD GENÈVE WRISTWATCH"
1064:"SwissTime - UNIVERSAL GENEVE Couture Diamond"
242:Universal Watch et Company (UWEC) Genève, Ltd.
71:Numa-Emile Descombes, Ulysse Georges Perret,
8:
1807:Watch manufacturing companies of Switzerland
770:French writer, poet, filmmaker and one-time
712:owned many different brands of watches, the
503:and Rolex, and as being more expensive than
19:
1812:Manufacturing companies established in 1894
1718:"Lot# GE0072-41 - closed at 122,000 CHF".
877:. www.time.com. 1967-06-16. Archived from
353:"Couture Diamond" watch, which featured a
154:. Along with neighboring Geneva companies
18:
1699:"Lot# GE0702-35 – closed at 55,200 CHF".
1391:
1389:
976:"Universal Genève Compax Limited Edition"
901:
899:
897:
895:
716:had given his Universal Genève Compax to
1684:. Vol. 45. Columbia, Pennsylvania:
1494:The Mystery of Hermann Goering's Suicide
1492:Swearingen, Ben E. (September 1, 1987).
1349:. Vol. 41, no. 11. p. 75.
866:
782:had etched verses of Cocteau's poetry.
1639:
1628:
1195:
1184:
1159:
1148:
674:, who donned the popular model at the
561:Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry
456:". While the company continued to use
495:still ranked Universal (in price) to
7:
1817:Design companies established in 1894
1267:Glasmeier, Amy K (August 10, 2000).
1213:Strange, Roger; Wang, Limin (2009).
1040:Concise Guide to Military Timepieces
1038:Wesolowski, Z.M. (August 23, 1999).
739:Air Force General (1978–1990) under
1822:Swiss companies established in 1894
1271:. The Guilford Press. p. 187.
725:pill Göring ingested to escape the
686:for charity. 40th President of the
534:Stelux Holdings International, Ltd.
63:in Le Locle, Neuchâtel, Switzerland
1720:Sotheby's 2012 Watch Sales Catalog
1027:. Vol. 22. 1952. p. 137.
666:29th and 41st Argentine President
14:
1042:. The Crowood Press. p. 68.
906:Haines, Reyney (April 12, 2010).
1782:Universal Genève company website
1177:Forbes, Bertie Charles (1980). "
999:. antiquorum.com. Archived from
788:owned a personalized Compax and
378:1950s–1960s: Microtor automatics
330:, who granted the Swiss brand a
25:
1686:National Watch and Clock Museum
1575:"Lot #296 JERRY LEWIS WATCHES"
1368:. Barnes & Noble. p.
1181:". Vol. 126. p. 286.
603:watches were named after late
319:, the U.S. distributorship of
1:
1827:1989 mergers and acquisitions
1688:. July 14, 2003. p. 729.
1102:"Universal-Genève Polerouter"
440:as the Golden Shadow, and in
201:Started and briefly based in
1398:Warman's Watches Field Guide
595:The 1997 and 1998 Universal
386:UG Polerouter Automatic Date
365:The Martel Watch Company in
142:company, founded in 1894 as
1625:. No. 1931–1936. 1966.
1143:Far Eastern Economic Review
1843:
1660:. www.lacotedesmontres.com
1517:Matthei, Fernando (2003).
1467:Lattimer, John K. (2001).
16:Swiss luxury watch company
1701:Sotheby's Auction Catalog
1496:. Mass Market Paperback.
875:"Corporations: Good Time"
854:'s, the Universal Genève
662:Diplomats and politicians
424:UG White Shadow Automatic
275:UG Tri-Compax Chronograph
24:
567:-based watchmaker Cyma.
313:Henri Stern Watch Agency
227:24-hour indication watch
173:manufacture d'horlogerie
146:. It is a subsidiary of
1396:Haines, Reyney (2011).
1360:Korda, Michael (2004).
1194:Cite magazine requires
931:Hughes, Graham (1968).
910:. Krause. p. 224.
571:2023 onwards: Breitling
532:-based investment firm
1519:Matthei: mi testimonio
935:. Crown. p. 250.
814:English rock musician
678:. 45th U.S. President
613:Instituto Ayrton Senna
425:
407:Scandinavian Airlines'
387:
276:
198:
189:1894–1930s: Beginnings
73:Louis Edouard Berthoud
1295:. FHC. Archived from
1221:. Routledge. p.
745:military dictatorship
650:recalled receiving a
423:
385:
274:
238:Perret & Berthoud
196:
1726:. November 13, 2012.
1521:. Tercera-Mondadori.
1471:. Hippocrene Books.
1346:Los Angeles Magazine
908:Vintage Wristwatches
881:on November 11, 2007
772:Cannes Film Festival
643:Simon & Schuster
523:1990s–2023: Comeback
240:before switching to
1402:Krause Publications
623:In the late 1990s,
367:Les Ponts-de-Martel
130:Universal Genève SA
21:
20:Universal Genève SA
1802:Swiss watch brands
1678:"NAWCC bulletin".
688:Dominican Republic
676:Potsdam Conference
619:Business and media
536:, which also owns
474:quartz oscillators
426:
388:
328:Dutch royal family
286:training exercises
277:
199:
1638:Missing or empty
1603:Julien's Auctions
1579:Julien's Auctions
1411:978-1-4402-1439-4
1317:Traina, Anthony.
1232:978-0-415-18267-6
1158:Missing or empty
917:978-1-4402-0409-8
565:La Chaux-de-Fonds
477:be replaced with
303:and designed the
290:combat operations
288:and full-fledged
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794:Jerry Lewis
790:Joan Rivers
780:tourbillons
735:, a former
696:Because of
605:Formula One
601:chronograph
411:Oyster Date
305:Pour Hermès
178:chronograph
52:Watchmaking
1791:Categories
1765:2016-11-16
1744:2011-07-23
1722:. Geneva:
1703:. Geneva:
1664:2011-07-23
1608:2023-05-28
1584:2023-05-28
1560:2011-10-01
1539:2011-10-01
1453:2016-11-11
1432:2016-11-16
1328:14 January
1303:2011-09-28
1253:2012-03-16
1128:2008-07-21
1107:2008-07-21
1070:2011-04-17
1007:2011-10-01
982:2011-04-17
961:2011-10-01
941:B002J7K548
885:2011-01-24
862:References
786:Jon Voight
774:president
754:President
706:Swiss made
684:Antiquorum
668:Juan Perón
550:Cartier SA
438:white gold
434:18K yellow
413:and Omega
336:Wilhelmina
260:movement.
92:Key people
38:Subsidiary
1724:Sotheby's
1705:Sotheby's
1249:. tmQuest
856:Cairellis
848:Sotheby's
807:luminary
800:Musicians
652:pink gold
530:Hong Kong
483:Accutrons
479:Unisonics
360:boutiques
344:Rotterdam
317:Manhattan
282:stopwatch
223:movements
211:Neuchâtel
180:in 1917.
152:movements
1323:Hodinkee
852:Christie
750:Deposed
656:Le Rosey
591:Athletes
509:Longines
470:diamonds
466:platinum
398:and the
351:art deco
254:Auto Rem
219:horology
203:Le Locle
108:Products
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1024:Esquire
737:Chilean
727:hangman
723:cyanide
700:during
626:Playboy
599:sports
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184:History
118:Website
112:Watches
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497:Corum
258:jewel
168:Rolex
140:watch
134:Swiss
132:is a
1644:help
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