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Willi Smith

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595:, John Bartlett, and Andre Walker, among many others. While WilliWear was very successful, the company had experienced creative, quality, and merchandising problems in the year before Smith's death. In an effort to remedy these problems, Smith's business partner Laurie Mallet hired a new staff and brought in additional designers in an effort to appeal to a more sophisticated demographic. After Smith's death, Mallet vowed to continue the line. In late 1987 and 1988, she opened WilliWear stores in 440:. From 1982 to 1987, WilliWear showrooms and boutiques in New York City and London were designed by the conceptual design and architecture studio SITE, led by partners Alison Sky and James Wines. For the WilliWear showroom on 209 W 38th Street in New York City, SITE partnered with Smith and Mallet to design a monochrome streetscape with a sidewalk doubling as a runway and chain-link fencing serving as display racks. 566:. Smith also sourced natural fabrics from India for WilliWear collections. The designer blurred the lines of gendered fashion in American sportswear with garments created for both his WilliWear Men's and Women's collections. Smith also played a key role in the democratization of fashion by keeping WilliWear at an affordable price-point, as well as by partnering with pattern companies 165:. As a boy, Smith spent hours sketching on the floor of his home and at the Philadelphia Museum College of Art. When reflecting on his childhood, Smith once stated, "I loved to draw and design clothes, and my mother told me I was born to be an artist or designer." After his parents divorced, his grandmother, Gladys Bush, nurtured and motivated Smith to pursue his dreams in design. 145:, continued the line with various designers creating collections. Without Smith, the company floundered and due to financial problems and poor sales, WilliWear Limited ceased production in 1990. WilliWear was the first clothing company to create womenswear and menswear under the same label. The accessibility and affordability of Smith's clothing helped to democratize fashion. 629:) exhibition Art As Damaged Goods. Smith and Mallet also collaborated with local art galleries, which hosted early WilliWear and WilliWear Productions fashion shows. The line of artist T-shirts for WilliWear Productions was first exhibited at the Ronald Feldman Gallery, then during the Artventure fundraiser hosted at AREA by the Public Art Fund in 1984. 234:. Smith resigned from Digits later that same year and Digits went bankrupt shortly after. In 1974, Smith partnered with his sister Toukie Smith and close friend Harrison Rivera-Terreaux to form his own label Willi Smith Designs, Inc. Unfamiliar at the time with the business aspect of running a label, the company struggled and closed a few months later. 608:
collection. Upon its debut in April, the line was panned by critics. To save money, Mallet closed the WilliWear stores and tried to generate revenue by convincing chain stores to carry the line. Mallet's efforts failed and, in 1990, the women's division of WilliWear ceased production. Shortly thereafter, the men's division also ceased production.
522:. Mallet later said that while the designer was always "fragile" and often too sick to work, she did not feel that he was seriously ill. When asked if Smith had any idea that he had AIDS, Mallet said that Smith never confided this to her, but she felt "maybe he had some idea, some feeling." Smith's funeral was held on April 20 at the 241:) India with Mallet to produce a small collection of women's separates in natural fibers. The collection was a success, and soon after, Smith and Mallet formed the label WilliWear Ltd., with Mallet as President of the company and Willi Smith as Vice President and lead designer. The first Williwear fashion show was held at the 639:, Curator of Contemporary Design, and Hintz Secretarial Scholar at Cooper Hewitt with Curatorial Assistants Julie Pastor and Darnell Jamal Lisby. The collaborative and accessible nature of Willi Smith's work was highlighted through the exhibition and will be incorporated to a greater extent through the 253:
WilliWear produced several hallmark collections from 1982 to 1986, and in 1986 the company reached $ 25 million in sales. Smith and Mallet further enriched the reputation of the brand through artist collaborations. After Smith's death, on April 17, 1987, Mallet continued to run WilliWear. In 1989,
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WilliWear was a massive success, providing chic, stylish clothing for the modern woman, and later men, at affordable prices and in natural fabrics. In 1982, Smith produced the first WilliWear men's collection with Stuart Lazar as Executive Vice President of menswear. Smith also hired Mark Bozek as
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In 1967, Smith left Parsons and pursued a career designing on his own. He first sought design inspiration from what people wore on the streets of New York. He befriended model Bethann Hardison in 1967 after striking up a conversation about her style on the street. Hardison became the fit model for
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location was opened before Smith's death which proved to be very successful). However, Mallet struggled to maintain the success the line had when Smith was alive. By 1989, sales had decreased. In November 1989, Mallet hired then up and coming designer Andre Young to design the line's Fall 1990
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and WalkerWear. Smith's gender-neutral collections for WilliWear can be seen as precursors for contemporary gender-neutral brands such as One DNA and the Phluid Project. Smith's influence can also be seen in brands such as Supreme, Off-White, Telfar, Vaquera, Eckhaus Latta and Pyer Moss.
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to produce home sewing patterns of his collections. He sought not to target an exclusive clientele with his work, but instead to ensure that his clothing could be worn by people from varied backgrounds. Smith's label WilliWear set the stage for later streetwear brands such as
141:. At the time of his death, Smith was regarded as one of the most successful African-American designers in the fashion industry. His company, WilliWear Limited, launched in 1976 and by 1986 grossed over $ 25 million in sales. After Smith's death, his business partner, 245:
in the Spring of 1978 and showcased a collection of garments “influenced by nautical uniforms and Southeast Asian dress.” Subsequent WilliWear fashion shows were held in unconventional locations such as Alvin Ailey Studio and the Puck Building.
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exhibition. He designed a two-piece wedding ensemble consisting of “a rajah style jacket in cotton satin and velveteen jodhpurs,” which was prominently displayed during the show. The following year, Smith participated in the Project Space One
643:, which the public can contribute to. The archive serves as a resource for scholars and enthusiasts to gain greater insight and understanding into the life, work, and legacy of the visionary American designer. Due to the 391:, was the first short film project that WilliWear commissioned to present Smith's clothes in motion on the street and to combine the disciplines of art, fashion, and film in one form. In 1985, Smith also worked with 229:
for his work as lead designer at Digits. In 1973, Smith was nominated for the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Winnie Award for the second time, and began designing patterns for the commercial pattern company
157:, to Willie Lee Smith, an iron worker, and June Eileen Smith, a homemaker, both of whom were extremely clothes-conscious. Smith's grandmother was the housekeeper for a family that was close with designer 562:
Willi Smith was one of the first American designers to create clothing inspired by and for everyday people and what they wore on city streets – making his sportswear a bridge to commercial
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Willi Smith Coty Award Biography. 1979. Folder 6. CFDA Lambert, 1944-1979. Gladys Marcus Library Special Collections & College Archives. Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, NY.
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Smith and Mallet also collaborated with twenty-one contemporary artists in 1984 to design T-shirts with silk-screened artwork. These T-shirts displayed original work by artists including
1751: 1876: 428:, music by Jorge Socarras, and makeup by Linda Mason. The presentation of the Spring 1983 WilliWear collection "City Island", featured video art, which was created by artist 432:. Other significant WilliWear collections include the Fall 1984 collection "SUB-Urban", Spring 1985 collection "Sightseeing", the 1984 collection for WilliWear Productions’ 420:(1987), creating the homecoming court costumes. Elements of film were also included in the presentation of the Fall 1983 WilliWear collection "Street Couture", held at the 270:
Willi Smith was an avid patron of the arts and collaborated with an extensive group of artists from 1973 up until his death in 1987. He designed costumes for choreographer
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head of communications for WilliWear that same year. After receiving his fifth Coty Award nomination, Willi Smith won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award in 1983.
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in 1970 while Mallet was in New York for a holiday break and hired her as his design assistant at Digits in 1971. The following year, 1972, Smith was nominated for the
1821: 1459:"Art: Commentary: A Stitch in Time : The NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt returns to Washington, its 21,000 panels casting a shadow that reaches the White House" 1846: 518:-related. Smith was apparently unaware that he had contracted the virus and had shown no symptoms. It was only after he was hospitalized that tests revealed he was 514:
in February 1987. He died of pneumonia complicated by shigellosis the following day at the age of 39. According to Smith's lawyer Edward Hayes, Smith's death was
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hosted the first retrospective exhibition on Willi Smith from March 13, 2020. The show was scheduled to end on October 25, 2020. The exhibition was curated by
1816: 1886: 460: 530:, after which his remains were cremated. On May 1, 1987, a memorial service was held for Smith at his alma mater, Parsons The New School for Design. 1871: 1826: 632: 259: 399:, which was shot in Senegal and showcased ensembles inspired by Senegalese street fashion. Expedition debuted in New York at the Ziegfeld theater. 226: 1861: 291: 221:
From 1969 to 1973, Smith worked as lead designer for the junior sportswear label Digits. Smith met future business partner and lifelong friend
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Additionally, many young designers and artists worked at WilliWear before launching their own successful careers and labels, including
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to revive the brand. Following a poorly received Fall 1990 collection and loss of sales at the Fifth Avenue store, Williwear filed for
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Nichols, Elaine; Jones, Adrienne (2020). "Wedding Dress for the Black Fashion Museum". In Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (ed.).
376: 174: 86: 20: 1841: 1113: 636: 567: 231: 1006: 1866: 379:, and Andrew "Zephyr" Witten. The shirts were a part of the WilliWear Productions’ collection and video presentation 689: 668: 154: 865: 471: 316: 1698: 657: 1230: 255: 161:, and she helped her grandson get an internship with Scaasi. Smith helped with the design of clothing for 1538: 1458: 1310: 1256: 584: 1369: 1806: 1801: 617: 358: 197:. He received two scholarships to fund his studies at Parsons. In 1965, Smith interned for couturier 182: 667:
for women's fashion. He was the second African American designer to win the award, the first being
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Barber, Tiffany E. (2020). "Real Clothes for Real Dance". In Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (ed.).
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Bozek, Mark (March 9, 1984). "Artist T-shirts" (Press release). New York: WilliWear Productions.
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but his lasting legacy was mentoring burgeoning African American talent, including Willi Smith
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Square, Jonathan (2020). "WilliWear to Streetwear". In Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (ed.).
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Earnest, Jarrett (2020). "Willi Smith in Pieces". In Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (ed.).
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proclaimed February 23 "Willi Smith Day" in honor of the designer's achievements.
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A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution
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In 2002, Smith was honored with a bronze plaque for Fashion Walk of Fame along
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Silva, Horacio (2020). "Artventure". In Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (ed.).
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Furman, Phyllis; Moss, Linda (May 20, 1990). "Los of Identity of Williwear".
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Campbell, Roy H. (June 25, 1990). "Chapter 11 Papers Filed by Williwear".
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Africana: The Encyclopedia of the African and African American Experience
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comic in 1987. Smith also designed the uniforms for the workers on
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Smith continued to design and, in 1976, traveled to Bombay (
137:(February 29, 1948 – April 17, 1987) was an American 1620:"Fashion (Winter 1982): Willi Smith: Art as Damaged Goods" 1370:"Fashion Designer Willi Smith Had AIDS, His Attorney Says" 1204:
Bullock, Michael (2020). "SITE's Iconic Ghost Cityscape".
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In September 1983, Smith won an American Fashion Critics'
1646:"Cooper Hewitt to Present "Willi Smith: Street Couture"" 981:"Willi Smith Snags a Coty with His Street-Smart Threads" 647:, the exhibit was closed at the end of its opening day. 1007:"Andre Walker: Trying To Put Spunk Back Into WilliWear" 1514:
Free Stylin': How Hip Hop Changed the Fashion Industry
116: 108: 100: 82: 63: 37: 30: 1426: 1231:"Caroline Wants Private Wedding, But Won't Get It" 929:Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (2020). "Timeline". 451:, in 1986, and designed the wedding dress worn by 1114:"Dance: Jones and Zane Offer 'Secret Pastures'" 1726:Price Alford, Holly; Stegemeyer, Anne (2014). 1488:. New York: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 186. 1208:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. pp. 188–197. 1091:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. pp. 100–111. 554:on Washington for Equality on April 29, 2000. 8: 1877:University of the Arts (Philadelphia) alumni 1730:. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. p. XLIII. 1425:Gates, Henry Louis; Appiah, Anthony (1999), 1285:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. pp. 48–53. 1183:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. pp. 15–16. 402:Smith showcased his designs through film in 443:Additionally, Smith designed the suits for 1364: 1362: 1304: 1302: 27: 1507: 1505: 1335: 1333: 1331: 1153:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. p. 174. 866:"The 25 Greatest Black Fashion Designers" 616:In 1981, Willi Smith participated in the 494:On April 16, 1987, Smith was admitted to 19:For other people with similar names, see 1721: 1719: 1598:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. p. 77. 958:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. p. 12. 933:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. p. 18. 893:. New York: Rizzoli Electa. p. 71. 656:Smith earned two scholarships to attend 633:Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum 1822:AIDS-related deaths in New York (state) 1672:"Willi Smith Digital Community Archive" 1539:"Toukie Smith Puts New Angles on Style" 1457:Knight, Christopher (October 4, 1992). 1393: 1391: 702: 298:(1984), as well as for Ellen Stewart's 1847:Deaths from pneumonia in New York City 1565:"Strapped Williwear Hangs By a Thread" 1537:Hawkins, Timothy (February 23, 1990). 1179:Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (2020). 1112:Kisselgoff, Anna (November 17, 1984). 979:Shapiro, Harriet (November 14, 1983). 954:Cunningham Cameron, Alexandra (2020). 714: 712: 710: 708: 706: 292:Bill T. Jones/Arnie Zane Dance Company 1340:Smith, Marguerite T. (May 17, 1987). 1174: 1172: 1170: 1082: 1080: 1032:Hochswender, Woody (April 10, 1990). 641:Willi Smith Digital Community Archive 290:Smith also designed costumes for the 16:American fashion designer (1948–1987) 7: 1882:20th-century African-American people 1005:Chua, Lawrence (November 23, 1989). 924: 922: 920: 918: 916: 914: 912: 910: 884: 882: 833: 831: 769: 767: 227:Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award 218:Smith's designs and a close friend. 745:Hochswender, Woody (June 5, 1990). 1817:African-American fashion designers 1398:Buck, Genevieve (April 29, 1987). 864:Deleon, Jian (February 28, 2013). 838:Rayner, Polly (October 21, 1984). 681:In 1988, then New York City mayor 447:and his groomsmen when he married 179:Philadelphia Museum College of Art 14: 1887:20th-century American LGBT people 1699:"Coty Winners: Smith and Flusser" 1697:Duka, John (September 30, 1983). 1563:Walls, Jeanette (June 11, 1990). 1309:Belcher, Jerry (April 20, 1987). 1206:Willi Smith : Street Couture 543:NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt 510:while on a fabric buying trip to 300:La MaMa Experimental Theatre Club 191:Parsons The New School for Design 95:Parsons The New School for Design 719:James, George (April 19, 1987). 524:Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel 424:, and incorporated video art by 193:, the art and design college of 173:Smith studied commercial art at 1872:Parsons School of Design alumni 1827:American fashion businesspeople 1575:(23). New York Media, LLC: 14. 1433:, Basic Civitas Books, p.  1342:"Sustaining Williwear's Spirit" 1255:Gross, Michael (June 2, 1987). 1229:Slagle, Alton (July 19, 1986). 774:Dorris, Jesse (July 11, 2020). 622:Bridal Gowns of Black Designers 410:(1985), as well as for film in 262:and ceased production in 1990. 676:Cutty Sark Men's Fashion Award 540:, has a panel in the original 436:, and the 1985 collection for 284:Take-Off From a Forced Landing 209:had served as Smith's mentor. 175:Mastbaum Technical High School 87:Mastbaum Technical High School 21:William Smith (disambiguation) 1: 1862:LGBT people from Pennsylvania 550:, read by its author for the 466:The Amazing Spider-Man Annual 1852:African-American LGBT people 1516:. ABC-CLIO. pp. 37–44. 637:Alexandra Cunningham Cameron 1596:Willi Smith: Street Couture 1283:Willi Smith: Street Couture 1181:Willi Smith: Street Couture 1151:Willi Smith: Street Couture 1089:Willi Smith: Street Couture 956:Willi Smith: Street Couture 931:Willi Smith: Street Couture 891:Willi Smith: Street Couture 1903: 1832:American fashion designers 155:Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 18: 1837:Artists from Philadelphia 1785:October 31, 2006, at the 1257:"Spider-Man to Wed Model" 1071:The Philadelphia Inquirer 472:Jeanne-Claude and Christo 395:to direct the short film 1812:African-American artists 658:Parsons School of Design 496:Mt. Sinai Medical Center 1011:St. Louis Post-Dispatch 128:(former brother-in-law) 1857:LGBT fashion designers 1512:Romero, Elena (2012). 254:Mallet hired designer 91:University of the Arts 674:In 1985, Smith won a 585:Antthony Mark Hankins 474:'s 1983 installation 260:Chapter 11 bankruptcy 243:Holly Solomon Gallery 181:, taking a course in 1842:American gay artists 1728:Who's Who In Fashion 1406:. chicagotribune.com 645:coronavirus pandemic 618:Black Fashion Museum 280:The Deep South Suite 183:fashion illustration 58:, Pennsylvania, U.S. 1484:Emery, Joy (2014). 203:New York University 185:. He then moved to 135:Willi Donnell Smith 42:Willi Donnell Smith 1867:Menswear designers 1678:. December 3, 2019 1626:. January 17, 1982 1261:The New York Times 1118:The New York Times 751:The New York Times 725:The New York Times 502:after contracting 476:Surrounded Islands 461:a live performance 348:Jose Gracia Severo 153:Smith was born in 1737:978-1-609-01969-3 1605:978-0-8478-6819-3 1569:New York Magazine 1543:Los Angeles Times 1523:978-0-313-38646-6 1463:Los Angeles Times 1374:Los Angeles Times 1315:Los Angeles Times 1292:978-0-8478-6819-3 1215:978-0-8478-6819-3 1190:978-0-8478-6819-3 1160:978-0-8478-6819-3 1098:978-0-8478-6819-3 965:978-0-8478-6819-3 940:978-0-8478-6819-3 900:978-0-8478-6819-3 480:Pont Neuf Wrapped 455:when she married 445:Edwin Schlossberg 339:Edwin Schlossberg 132: 131: 112:WilliWear Limited 52:February 29, 1948 1894: 1767: 1766: 1764: 1762: 1748: 1742: 1741: 1723: 1714: 1713: 1711: 1709: 1694: 1688: 1687: 1685: 1683: 1676:cooperhewitt.org 1668: 1662: 1661: 1659: 1657: 1650:cooperhewitt.org 1642: 1636: 1635: 1633: 1631: 1616: 1610: 1609: 1591: 1585: 1584: 1560: 1554: 1553: 1551: 1549: 1534: 1528: 1527: 1509: 1500: 1499: 1481: 1475: 1474: 1472: 1470: 1454: 1448: 1447: 1432: 1422: 1416: 1415: 1413: 1411: 1395: 1386: 1385: 1383: 1381: 1376:. 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Designer 149:Early years 32:Willi Smith 1796:Categories 1056:The Record 1034:"Patterns" 985:people.com 747:"Patterns" 697:References 665:Coty Award 564:streetwear 486:, France. 482:(1985) in 438:Expedition 408:Expedition 397:Expedition 389:Les Levine 344:Kim Steele 333:Les Levine 327:Suzan Pitt 101:Occupation 48:1948-02-29 1581:0028-7369 1039:March 13, 1017:March 14, 568:Butterick 528:Manhattan 508:pneumonia 463:based on 412:Spike Lee 371:Tod Siler 232:Butterick 189:to go to 169:Education 117:Relatives 83:Education 1783:Archived 1756:cfda.com 1624:moma.org 785:July 14, 660:in 1965. 627:MoMA PS1 572:McCall's 383:(1984). 306:(1985). 278:(1973), 123:(sister) 870:Complex 317:Christo 1752:"CFDA" 1734:  1602:  1579:  1520:  1492:  1441:  1289:  1212:  1187:  1157:  1095:  962:  937:  897:  651:Awards 605:London 558:Legacy 535:openly 286:(1984) 239:Mumbai 213:Career 77:, U.S. 597:Paris 512:India 490:Death 484:Paris 109:Label 1763:2020 1732:ISBN 1710:2017 1684:2020 1658:2020 1632:2020 1600:ISBN 1577:ISSN 1550:2017 1518:ISBN 1490:ISBN 1471:2017 1439:ISBN 1412:2017 1382:2017 1353:2017 1322:2017 1287:ISBN 1268:2020 1242:2020 1210:ISBN 1185:ISBN 1155:ISBN 1125:2020 1093:ISBN 1041:2024 1019:2024 992:2020 960:ISBN 935:ISBN 895:ISBN 851:2020 822:2020 787:2020 758:2020 732:2020 599:and 577:FUBU 570:and 516:AIDS 506:and 322:SITE 64:Died 38:Born 1435:774 620:’s 603:(a 538:gay 526:in 498:in 468:#21 459:in 414:’s 1798:: 1754:. 1718:^ 1701:. 1674:. 1648:. 1622:. 1573:23 1571:. 1567:. 1541:. 1504:^ 1461:. 1437:, 1402:. 1390:^ 1372:. 1361:^ 1344:. 1330:^ 1313:. 1301:^ 1259:. 1233:. 1169:^ 1116:. 1079:^ 1009:. 983:. 909:^ 881:^ 872:. 868:. 842:. 830:^ 812:. 778:. 766:^ 749:. 723:. 705:^ 591:, 587:, 1765:. 1740:. 1712:. 1686:. 1660:. 1634:. 1608:. 1583:. 1552:. 1526:. 1498:. 1473:. 1414:. 1384:. 1355:. 1324:. 1295:. 1270:. 1244:. 1218:. 1193:. 1163:. 1127:. 1101:. 1043:. 1021:. 994:. 968:. 943:. 903:. 853:. 824:. 789:. 760:. 734:. 692:. 678:. 671:. 625:( 374:, 368:, 362:, 356:, 350:, 346:, 342:, 336:, 330:, 324:, 320:, 314:, 288:. 50:) 46:( 23:.

Index

William Smith (disambiguation)
Philadelphia
New York City
Mastbaum Technical High School
University of the Arts
Parsons The New School for Design
Toukie Smith
Robert De Niro
fashion designer
Laurie Mallet
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Arnold Scaasi
Elizabeth Taylor
Mastbaum Technical High School
Philadelphia Museum College of Art
fashion illustration
New York City
Parsons The New School for Design
The New School
Arnold Scaasi
New York University
Arthur McGee
Laurie Mallet
Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award
Butterick
Mumbai
Holly Solomon Gallery
Andre Walker
Chapter 11 bankruptcy
Dianne McIntyre

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