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foliate forms entwined with realistic flowers in polychrome silk on fronts, skirts, pocket flaps, and cuffs". It would have been worn under a full-skirted coat with matching breeches. The parts of the waistcoat that would show under an unbuttoned coat or at the side and back slits of the coat skirts
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have survived, and silks based on these designs have been identified in portraiture and in costume collections in
England and abroad. Garthwaite was born in Leicestershire in 1688. She began her freelance textile design career in York, sending the finished designs up to London. She moved to the
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technique to produce near-three-dimensional floral patterns through careful shading. Many of the designs
Garthwaite sold to Lekeux featured silver patterns combined with naturalistic florals. A note at the bottom of Garthwaite's design for the silk waistcoat indicates the three types of
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Garthwaite's design for the silk used for the Met's waistcoat, worked up in pencil, ink, and watercolor, is part of this collection. A note at the top indicates that this design was made for "Mr Lekeux Oct 23 1747". Peter Lekeux (1716–1768) was a third-generation London silk weaver of
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London silkweaving center of
Spitalfields with her widowed sister around 1730, and there she created designs for woven silks over the next three decades. Portfolios of her original designs in watercolors from the 1720s through 1756 have survived and are now in the collection of the
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Fashionable silk designs changed with the seasons, but general trends can be seen over longer periods. Sprays of botanically-accurate flowers appear in
Garthwaite's work from 1743; these were brocaded in silk against a figured ground, using an adaptation of the tapestry weaver's
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Created in 1747, the waistcoat represents the height of
English silk weaving design, which "in the 1740s achieved a particularly English interpretation of Rococo, with an accurate rendering of botanical detail ... in clear, true colours."
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are made of silk brocade fabric specifically woven to fit the floral designs to the shapes of the various parts of the waistcoat. Such "shap'd" silks were produced in the London silk-weaving center of
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thread and mutilcoloured silks. The floral design was the work of Anna Maria
Garthwaite, who was acknowledged as one of the premiere English silk designers of her day. Many of her original designs in
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The waistcoat was acquired by the Met in 1966 with funds from the Irene
Lewisohn Bequest. The seller was Cora Ginsburg, of Ginsburg and Levy, who had acquired the piece at auction in London.
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and woven by master weaver Peter Lekeux. Garthwaite's annotated design for the textile, dated
October 1747, is in the collection of the
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An elegant art: Fashion & fantasy in the eighteenth century: Los
Angeles County Museum of Art collection of costumes and textiles
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origin. In 1730 he was apprenticed to his father, also named Peter, known in the records as
Captain Lekeux from his rank in the
185:. Many of these designs are dated and annotated with weaving instructions and the names of the weavers to whom they were sold.
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Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century: In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, With a Complete Catalogue
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Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century: In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, With a Complete Catalogue
670:
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Rothstein, Natalie (1987). "Huguenots in the English Silk Industry in the Eighteenth Century". In Scouloudi, Irene (ed.).
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who made the fabric have also survived. The waistcoat is part of the collection of the Costume Institute at the
155:"A Silver and Silk Waiscoat". Texitle design by Anna Maria Garthwaite, 1747, Victoria and Albert Museum 5985.13
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The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Woven Textile Design in Britain From 1750 to 1850
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of 1747 is a rare example of eighteenth century clothing for which the garment itself, the original
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to be used in executing the design. In the drawing, dark yellow represents "plate" (
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Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century: From the Victoria and Albert Museum, London
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Detail of the woven silk on the waistcoat front, cuff, and pocket flap.
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and rose to the Company's highest office, upper bailiff, in July 1764.
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578:"Textile by Anna Maria Garthwaite / Waistcoat / British / The Met"
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Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
334:"The Metropolitan Museum of Art: Notable Acquisitions, 1965–1975"
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269:"In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute"
218:), a flat metal strip; light yellow represents "plain" (
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Waistcoat, Anna Maria Garthwaite 1747 MET C.I.66.14.2
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from around 1730 to 1760. The silk was designed by
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610:. Los Angeles/New York: Harry N. Abrams. p.
30:Waistcoat, silk, wool and metallic thread, 1747,
434:Ginsburg, M. (2004). "Garthwaite, Anna Maria".
385:"Textile Production in Europe: Silk, 1600–1800"
606:. In Los Angeles County Museum of Art (ed.).
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440:(online ed.). Oxford University Press.
312:. Boston: Bulfinch Press. Plates 238, 239.
676:Clothing in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
556:. Boston: Bulfinch Press. pp. 48–49.
474:. New York: Canopy Books. pp. 15–17.
413:. London: Thames & Hudson. p. 8.
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114:The waiscoat is made of "porcelain blue
437:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
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651:Metropolitan Museum of Art, Waistcoat
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357:The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900
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604:"The Elegant Art of Silk Weaving"
111:in New York, number C.I.66.14.2.
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359:. New York: Theatre Arts Books.
521:Huguenots in Britain and France
279:(2). MetPublications. Fall 1987
582:The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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336:. MetPublications. p. 46
199:Worshipful Company of Weavers
165:The waistcoat is made from a
454:UK public library membership
602:Rothstein, Natalie (1983).
552:Rothstein, Natalie (1990).
470:Rothstein, Natalie (1994).
409:Browne, Clare, ed. (1996).
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183:Victoria and Albert Museum
172:woven with three types of
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137:Victoria and Albert Museum
109:Metropolitan Museum of Art
52:Metropolitan Museum of Art
524:. Springer. p. 127.
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139:, London, item 5985.13.
77:The Met object ID: 81136
505:10.1093/ref:odnb/51013
446:10.1093/ref:odnb/50919
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97:waistcoat with sleeves
646:at Wikimedia Commons
495:Brown, Clare (2004).
355:Waugh, Norah (1987).
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161:Anna Maria Garthwaite
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133:Anna Maria Garthwaite
671:18th-century fashion
666:Individual garments
306:Rothstein, Natalie
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58:Accession No.
642:Media related to
563:978-0-8212-1812-9
481:978-1-5585-9849-2
452:(Subscription or
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319:978-0-8212-1812-9
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118:with a rich
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73:Identifiers
660:Categories
456:required.)
246:References
230:Provenance
120:brocading
19:Waistcoat
308:(1990).
191:Huguenot
95:A man's
48:Location
587:9 April
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170:brocade
32:The Met
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220:filé
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43:1747
40:Year
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Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
