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pitch, couldn't carry a pack with supplemental oxygen bottles because it jammed in the narrow cleft of rock, halting his progress. He took off his gloves after climbing over a tall vertical slab of granite on the top of which he hung a rope, and when he set it up he saw that he had to go back because his hands were frozen. They returned to the base, and for them the ascent was over. His fingers were frostbitten and treated in the camp, but that rope fix helped other teams to progress. The next day, Dušan Podbevšek and Roman Robas won their summit bid, but lost their way in the rock towers, and due to loss of time had to return to the base as well. Forty days into the expedition, the third attempt was done by Jernej "Nejc" Zaplotnik and two brothers, Marko and
416:
when Andrej's backup ventilator also failed, and the situation reached a critical point. Zaplotnik provided his last backup ventilator to Andrej, but that one also started hissing. Zaplotnik gave Andrej his own ventilator and bottles and told him he will climb on behind him without one on himself. Zaplotnik was not willing to consider retreating again, and the only acceptable outcome of that day to him was reaching the summit, willing to even risk his life. In a moment of luck, Zaplotnik managed to retrieve the last broken backup ventilator. The two climbers continued up to the vertical chimney where
Manfreda had fixed rope. Zaplotnik connected his
372:
471:. They reached a vertical chimney in the Yellow Band. Zaplotnik exited it across a boulder, but Andrej's pack frame got caught in the chimney and he tumbled, fell over, and accelerated wildly down the hill flipping. Andrej managed to save himself after falling 50 to 60 meters, slamming his axe in the slope the hardest he could. As the two exhausted climbers approached Camp IV, night had already fell, their headlamps flickered, the temperature dropped and they lost their way. They were eventually found by their teammates near the camp and could go to rest.
479:
the base camp, but could not reach anybody. On descent, the weather worsened quickly and the team were unable to return to Camp IV before dark and were forced to spend the night in a -40 °C temperature, without tents or sleeping bags, at an altitude of 8,400 meters. According to Božić, at the time this was the highest ever overnight bivouac in the open, and the closest he had ever been to death. They managed to survive the night, but on the following day, Ang Phu slipped and fell to his death going through the
131:. The first successful ascent of the West Ridge Direct was done by 24 Yugoslav alpinists, of which four reached the peak on the May 13th and 15th of 1979, using a route modified from the French to avoid the avalanche fall-lines. The West Ridge has maintained its reputation as one of the longest and most difficult routes on Everest, having been successfully ascended only by one more team: the Bulgarian National Everest Expedition, which included summits by
340:. In the port of Rijeka, 18 tons of equipment were loaded onto the ship: over 10 km of climbing ropes, 350 m of hanging and aluminum ladders, 40 tents, 80 sleeping bags, 30 pairs of specially made "gojzerica" climbing shoes, 500 screws and wedges for rocks and ice, several hundred liters of kerosene and gas for cooking and almost four tons of food. It took two months for the equipment to reach its starting point in the mountains via
1426:
446:(who had been filming the entire climb), Stane Belak, and the Sherpa guide Ang Phu, for whom this was the second climb which would make him the first person to do so from two different routes, a job he also loved doing. They waited out one day of bad weather in Camp IV, then set on to follow Zaplotnik's and Andrej's route. They took a slightly different route later on, traversing less-steep rock steps into the
20:
400:
the West Ridge for another route. Yugoslav expedition bypassed the obstacle, continued climbing via the West Ridge and set up their fourth camp at 7,520 meters on April 27. They were soon hit by a five-day long storm with winds going over 150 km/h, and they erected their fifth, final camp on May 9, at the height of 8,120 meters.
407:
candidates. The teams kept changing, as one climber went ill or too tired to continue, another replaced him. Viki Grošelj and Marjan
Manfreda earned the first chance at the summit. After losing some time looking for a way, at around 8,300 meters was a rock chimney so narrow that Manfreda, who led the
450:
and up the 'American Step'. This was where Ang Phu wanted to stop, saying that his rock-climbing skills weren't good enough. Božić helped him through difficult bits, and all three were soon on the top, took pictures, hoisted the flag and did radio-calling. Four
Yugoslavs reached the top of the Mount
415:
The trio was back in the Camp V by May 12, and prepared for another attempt the next day. Andrej Štremfelj was initially ambitious to reach the summit with his brother, but Marko's oxygen system and backup ventilator both failed and he had to go down. Zaplotnik and Andrej kept making rapid progress,
434:
suddenly rushed towards him, as his handhold broke off in his hand, and Andrej started holding him on a rope until he recovered. A bit higher up, Zaplotnik's foothold also broke and he slid back to Andrej. Going ahead, they were starting to get worried about getting down, but they could think about
399:
up to the first camp varied between II and III. The second camp was set up at 6,770 meters with 12 beds, and the third camp was pitched up at 7,170 meters, fifty meters below an obstacle, then filled with supplies. This obstacle called the "West
Shoulder" was where the 1963 American expedition left
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had crept in during their 12-hour climb, and down-climbing the 'American Step' was going to be difficult. Božić was pinned down in an exposed position by strong gusts of wind and stuck for half an hour. They ran out of oxygen and an intense cold took away their body heat. Belak tried to radio-call
412:. The winds roared down, tossing the climbers on the ground and choking their lungs with snow. Spending several days without rest, combined with powerful winds and the temperature of -35 °C made the trio retreat, first to the Camp IV, then all the way back to base camp to regroup and recover.
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200 meters long. About 6 tons of equipment was transported this way. The expedition was met with their first technical problem while climbing the Lho La at around 6,000 meters, when they pitched their tents there but strong wind blew them away. They had to dig up holes in the snow where they lived
152:
and numerous permits had to be secured at the same time. Five members of the expedition (Škarja, Belak, Marenče, Robas, Zaplotnik) left a year earlier in order to scout, check, agree and set up their base camp at 5,300 meters. At that time, they had discovered a relatively safe approach to the
487:, but it slipped out of his hand during the 2000 meters long fall. The death of a friend hit the members of the expedition hard, so they stopped all activities in the mountain and left the base camp on May 21. The members of the expedition returned to Yugoslavia on May 26, 1979.
503:
to hear and see the
Croatian Himalayans who conquered Mount Everest. About a thousand people remained in front of the doors of the packed hall. Since then, the holding of lectures on expeditions in Lisinski has become a tradition, and about fifteen have been held to date.
425:
of Mount
Everest, which encircles Everest along the height of 8,200 and 8,600 meters. They traversed an extremely small, crumbling ledge with 2,500 meters of space gaping below them, reminding themselves how they safely crossed such dangerous narrow ledges back in the
359:. Each of them carried a load of 30 kg, while the alpinists carried their personal luggage. In the base camp at an altitude of 5,300 meters, tents were set up and equipment was arranged. In one tent there was a barrel containing 60 kg of
55:
alpinist team, and their first ascent to the highest peak of Mount
Everest. The route became known as the "Yugoslavian route" after the first successful ascent. The Yugoslav state leadership declared this ascent the greatest achievement of
467:, after which they would go over easier terrain towards the Camp IV where their teammates waited. The route ahead was steep, exposed and difficult. They put on their oxygen masks and agreed to use as little rope as possible to avoid a
184:. The leader of the Sherpas was Ang Phu, who climbed Mount Everest the previous year. The six expeditions in the Himalayas from 1960 to 1975 that preceded the Mount Everest had many of these climbers prepared for the highest peak.
420:
to it and pulled himself up the chimney. He saw two options in the gully ahead, the one where Podbevšek and Robas lost their way, and another one, which
Zaplotnik and Andrej chose. After some creeping, they found themselves in the
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Out of 190 alpinists, after three months of thorough checks of each individual's abilities, 40 met the conditions and 24 were selected. The preparations for the climb lasted two full years. Everyone had to learn
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1532:
148:, everyone's psychological profile had to be ideal, everyone had to be physically healthy and fix their teeth, as well as create specific equipment that could not be bought. Financing,
72:
in 1953 until the
Yugoslav ascent in 1979, seventeen expeditions from eleven countries successfully ascended Mount Everest, for a total of 84 ascents through four directions: over the
508:
became the first Croat to have climbed the Mount
Everest, and the decision to film his expeditions largely determined his career as a director of numerous documentaries and shows on
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The expedition set up five high-altitude camps and placed fixed ropes between them for security. Between March 29 and April 6, the expedition fixed ropes on the slope between the
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104:, and its difficulty is reflected by the fact that of 21 teams that attempted it as of 2000, only three succeeded, only two of which used the West Ridge Direct route.
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512:. After this success, the state was no longer interested in financing mountaineering expeditions. The following expeditions had a republican and regional character.
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Supplemental oxygen was started to be used only after the fifth camp (Camp V), as the team leader considered those who could not reach the camp without it were not
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1462:
439:. Embracing to the top, they finally reached the summit where this tripod was and became the first Yugoslav alpinists to reach the peak of Mount Everest.
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Climbing routes on Mount Everest opened by different expeditions between 1924 and 1996. Yugoslavian route is marked with the blue color on the right side.
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Zaplotnik and Andrej discussed their options for descending, and one of the options they discarded was going down the south side, the
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88:. None of the expeditions up to that point made a successful ascent using the West Ridge, which stretches for 6.5 km, from the
1253:[40th anniversary of the Everest 1979 expedition] (in Serbo-Croatian). Hrvatsko planinarsko društvo Ivančica. 27 March 2019
1820:
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1953:
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523:. The four climbers who reached the peak and many other members of the expedition gathered together on March 14, 2019, in
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were forced by the difficult area to partly traverse the previously unexplored West Ridge in 1963, then switch to the
638:[35 years since the first Yugoslav ascent to Everest] (in Serbo-Croatian). Visokogorci Crne Gore. 19 May 2014
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on 20 April 1984, Metodi Savov and Ivan Valtchev on 8 May 1984, and Nikolay Petkov and Kiril Doskov on 9 May 1984.
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1227:[Exactly 40 years ago, Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Štremfelj stepped on top of the world] (in Slovenian).
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658:
1757:
1627:
988:
832:[40 years ago, the Yugoslavs were on top of the world: We are on top and we don't know what to do].
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Two days later, after Božić, Belak and Phu reached the summit, and had to plan for their descent as well. A
858:
499:'s biggest mountaineering gathering of all time was held on the October 9, 1979 - 3,500 people came to the
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that when they reached the summit. And soon, they saw a tripod looming through the fog, the one set by the
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920:[Tone Škarja has died: the leader who moved alpinists on the mountain like "chess pieces"].
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1175:[President Pahor welcomed the members of the Everest 1979 expedition] (in Slovenian).
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of Mount Everest. The orange line marks the West Ridge route used by the Yugoslav expedition.
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The expedition was commemorated on its 40th anniversary at the Mounteneering Festival in
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830:"Jugosloveni su prije 40 godina bili na krovu svijeta: Na vrhu smo i ne znamo šta ćemo"
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1937:
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918:"Umrl je Tone Škarja: vodja, ki je alpiniste na gori premikal kot »šahovske figure«"
299:
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1325:
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1225:"Pred natanko 40 leti sta Nejc Zaplotnik in Andrej Štremfelj stopila na vrh sveta"
1150:[Croatian mountaineering and alpinistic expeditions] (in Serbo-Croatian).
1097:
983:
690:
430:. Climbing some steep sections barehanded, Zaplotnik had his fingers frozen. The
1581:
1415:
1407:
1401:
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431:
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19:
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The expedition numbered 24 climbers, two doctors, three reporters and 20 local
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1121:
Everest – The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour
1015:
1856:
1386:
1366:
1356:
1199:"Slovenia celebrates the 40th anniversary of its first Mount Everest ascent"
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475:
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route known for its deadliness. The best option seemed to be to descend the
460:
380:
345:
333:
128:
93:
73:
48:
123:
to ascend to the peak. A similar path to the Yugoslavian was chosen by the
100:. The West Ridge is technically demanding and exposed to strong winds from
164:
guides. The leader of the expedition was an experienced Himalayan climber
1866:
1172:
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520:
341:
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up to 6,000 meters above sea level, where a base camp was set up on the
558:
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484:
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404:
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97:
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718:"2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest West Ridge, No O's on K2"
101:
1268:
363:. Porters received $ 2 per day (equivalent to $ 8 in 2023).
127:, which ended in a disaster when six climbers were killed in an
1272:
1059:[Tragedy of Stipe Božić / Pride eases my suffering].
531:, where they recounted their memories of the historic climb.
695:(3rd ed.). The Mountaineers. pp. 508, 510, 683.
495:
The expedition's return to Yugoslavia was triumphant. The
1092:[30th anniversary of the West Ridge of Everest].
771:"West Ridge Direct – Nine Lives – Expeditions to Everest"
1173:"Predsednik Pahor sprejel člane odprave Everest 1979"
636:"35 godina od prvog jugoslovenskog uspona na Everest"
1123:. Little, Brown and Company. pp. 104–107, 187.
740:
738:
1908:
1885:
1849:
1781:
1636:
1615:
1561:
1433:
1306:
1057:"Tragedija Stipe Božića / Ponos mi ublažava patnju"
661:[Mountaineering week] (in Serbo-Croatian).
552:[Ascent to the heights where jets "reign"]
348:in Nepal. The journey began on February 27, 1979.
43:(8,848m) using the entire West Ridge route in the
1148:"Hrvatske planinarske i alpinističke ekspedicije"
947:
945:
943:
941:
451:Everest in total - three Slovenes and one Croat.
47:of Everest. It was the seventh expedition in the
550:"Uspon na visine na kojima "caruju" mlažnjaci"
387:(6,050 m) pass, and installed a hand-operated
1284:
861:[Yugoslavs on top of Mount Everest].
823:
821:
819:
817:
351:The equipment was carried for 19 days by 750
8:
1291:
1277:
1269:
1251:"40. obljetnica ekspedicije Everesta 1979"
1090:"30. obljetnica Zapadnog Grebena Everesta"
684:
682:
680:
1031:"40 years since the "Slovenian Everest""
961:. Rocky Mountain Books. pp. 64–76.
609:[Mount Everest 40 years later].
370:
18:
16:First West Ridge ascent of Mount Everest
1488:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance
540:
1553:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
1548:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
1142:
1140:
657:Mesarić, Vladimir (16 November 2017).
33:1979 Yugoslav Mount Everest expedition
1055:Šćavina, Kristinka (15 August 2007).
548:Petrovčić, Gordana (9 October 2007).
442:Meanwhile, another trio consisted of
39:) was the first successful summit of
7:
984:"The Complete West Ridge of Everest"
630:
628:
483:. He tried to save himself using an
1719:Expedition Everest (roller coaster)
1572:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)
1152:Croatian Mountaineering Association
1096:(in Serbo-Croatian). Archived from
1065:(in Serbo-Croatian). Archived from
859:"Jugosloveni na vrhu Mont Everesta"
692:Everest: The Mountaineering History
1463:1933 British aerial reconnaissance
857:Salihović, M. (15 December 2015).
828:Jovanović, Jelena (21 July 2019).
613:(in Serbo-Croatian). 15 March 2019
14:
607:"Mount Everest 40 godina kasnije"
332:The equipment was delivered from
1543:2007 Altitude Everest expedition
1424:
1088:Božić, Stipe (3 February 2009).
716:Arnette, Alan (5 January 2020).
1533:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
663:Libraries of the city of Zagreb
1732:The Man Who Skied Down Everest
1177:Alpine Association of Slovenia
383:(5,350 m) and the edge of the
168:. Out of 24 climbers, 20 were
1:
1523:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face
916:Intihar, Anja (11 May 2020).
886:"Yugoslav Everest expedition"
70:first ascent of Mount Everest
1918:List of Mount Everest guides
1119:Gillman, Peter, ed. (1993).
1029:Grošelj, Viki (9 May 2019).
1949:Expeditions from Yugoslavia
1457:Affair of the Dancing Lamas
1443:1921 British reconnaissance
1970:
1944:Mount Everest expeditions
1708:Everest: Beyond the Limit
1623:Joint Himalayan Committee
1422:
1229:Radiotelevizija Slovenija
510:Croatian Radio Television
397:climbing difficulty grade
180:), and the last two were
80:, through North Face via
1528:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge
689:Unsworth, Walt (2000) .
1758:The Conquest of Everest
1628:Mount Everest Committee
989:American Alpine Journal
746:"The West Ridge Direct"
1954:1979 in Yugoslav sport
1900:20th-century summiters
884:Škarlja, Tone (1981).
376:
125:1974 French expedition
111:American mountaineers
28:
982:Škarja, Tone (1980).
955:(21 September 2015).
891:The Himalayan Journal
374:
22:
1850:Mount Everest massif
1738:Mount Everest webcam
1518:1975 British SW Face
998:American Alpine Club
953:McDonald, Bernadette
659:"Planinarski tjedan"
437:Chinese team in 1975
1895:Times to the summit
1670:The Epic of Everest
1100:on 14 February 2017
865:(in Serbo-Croatian)
838:(in Serbo-Croatian)
722:www.alanarnette.com
562:(in Serbo-Croatian)
1772:Wings Over Everest
1695:(Indian TV series)
801:EverestHistory.com
750:EverestHistory.com
586:EverestHistory.com
377:
29:
1931:
1930:
1765:The Wildest Dream
1597:Hannelore Schmatz
1342:Kangshung Glacier
1130:978-0-316-90489-6
777:. 11 January 2022
775:Explore 7 Summits
60:up to that time.
1961:
1428:
1408:Green Boots cave
1331:Hornbein Couloir
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797:"Nikolay Petkov"
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481:Hornbein Couloir
465:Hornbein Couloir
448:Hornbein Couloir
410:Andrej Štremfelj
392:these days. The
324:
316:Jernej Zaplotnik
308:Andrej Štremfelj
303:
290:
268:
260:Vladimir Mesarić
235:
222:
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121:Hornbein Couloir
82:Hornbein Couloir
38:
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1934:
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1910:Mountain guides
1904:
1881:
1845:
1826:2015 avalanches
1777:
1647:Beyond the Edge
1632:
1611:
1557:
1538:2006 Philippine
1429:
1420:
1397:Three Pinnacles
1382:Rongbuk Glacier
1308:
1302:
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1069:on 21 July 2011
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958:Alpine Warriors
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389:cable transport
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312:Marko Štremfelj
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272:Dušan Podbevšek
262:
256:Vanja Matijevec
250:Marjan Manfreda
229:
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195:
189:Zvone Andrejčič
141:
133:Hristo Prodanov
109:1963 expedition
92:pass above the
78:Northeast Ridge
66:
58:Yugoslav sports
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11:
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1821:2014 avalanche
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1377:Norton Couloir
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1352:Khumbu Icefall
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1347:Khumbu Glacier
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1336:Kangshung Face
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357:Khumbu Glacier
336:by a truck to
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86:Southwest Face
65:
64:The West Ridge
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1587:Sandy Irvine
1527:
1508:1960 Chinese
1503:1953 British
1493:1951 British
1483:1938 British
1478:1936 British
1473:1935 British
1468:1933 British
1453:1924 British
1448:1922 British
1392:South Summit
1326:Hillary Step
1255:. Retrieved
1245:
1233:. Retrieved
1219:
1207:. Retrieved
1193:
1181:. Retrieved
1167:
1155:. Retrieved
1120:
1114:
1102:. Retrieved
1098:the original
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1083:
1071:. Retrieved
1067:the original
1060:
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1038:. Retrieved
1034:
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993:
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928:. Retrieved
921:
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867:. Retrieved
862:
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725:. Retrieved
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667:. Retrieved
652:
640:. Retrieved
615:. Retrieved
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589:. Retrieved
585:
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564:. Retrieved
557:
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514:
494:
473:
458:
441:
414:
402:
378:
361:dollar bills
350:
331:
275:Bojan Pollak
244:Franček Knez
238:Tomaž Jamnik
227:Viki Grošelj
166:Tone Škarlja
159:
142:
113:Tom Hornbein
106:
67:
32:
30:
1701:Everest '82
1687:(2015 film)
1679:(1998 film)
1664:(2007 film)
1602:David Sharp
1582:Green Boots
1435:Expeditions
1416:Western Cwm
1402:Three Steps
1338:(East Face)
1321:Geneva Spur
1073:14 February
1000:: 429–437.
611:KAportal.hr
506:Stipe Božić
444:Stipe Božić
432:Western Cwm
428:Julian Alps
423:Yellow Band
319: [
298: [
295:Tone Škarja
285: [
278:Roman Robas
263: [
230: [
217: [
208:Stipe Božić
196: [
193:Stane Belak
178:Stipe Božić
176:(including
172:, two were
139:Preparation
1938:Categories
1714:EverestMax
1616:Committees
1607:Joe Tasker
1564:fatalities
1498:1952 Swiss
1372:North Face
1307:Topography
835:Vijesti.me
566:6 February
535:References
367:Expedition
327:Jože Zupan
247:Ivč Kotnik
84:, and the
45:North Face
25:North Face
1857:Khumbutse
1662:The Climb
1654:The Climb
1387:South Col
1367:North Col
1357:Lhakpa La
1316:Base Camp
1035:Our Space
1016:0065-6925
727:31 August
517:Ljubljana
476:snowstorm
461:South Col
418:ascenders
381:base camp
346:Kathmandu
334:Ljubljana
291:(Bosniak)
223:(Bosniak)
129:avalanche
94:base camp
74:South Col
68:From the
49:Himalayas
1867:Lingtren
1638:In media
1562:Notable
525:Karlovac
521:Slovenia
342:Calcutta
304:(leader)
53:Yugoslav
37:JAHE VII
1923:Sherpas
1887:Records
1693:Everest
1685:Everest
1677:Everest
1257:21 July
1235:21 July
1209:21 July
1183:21 July
1157:21 July
1104:21 July
1040:21 July
930:21 July
901:21 July
869:21 July
863:Novi.ba
842:21 July
806:25 July
781:21 July
755:21 July
669:21 July
642:21 July
617:21 July
591:21 July
559:Vjesnik
529:Croatia
485:ice axe
469:bivouac
455:Descent
269:(Croat)
210:(Croat)
182:Bosniak
170:Slovene
146:English
96:to the
51:by the
1877:Pumori
1872:Nuptse
1862:Lhotse
1656:(book)
1362:Lho La
1127:
1062:Gloria
1014:
1004:
996:(53).
965:
699:
497:Zagreb
491:Legacy
405:summit
385:Lho La
338:Rijeka
162:Sherpa
157:pass.
155:Lho La
98:summit
90:Lho La
76:, the
1783:Years
665:(KGZ)
554:(PDF)
323:]
302:]
289:]
267:]
234:]
221:]
200:]
174:Croat
150:visas
107:On a
102:Tibet
1841:2018
1836:2017
1831:2016
1816:2013
1811:2012
1751:Peak
1259:2022
1237:2022
1211:2022
1203:UIAA
1185:2022
1159:2022
1125:ISBN
1106:2022
1075:2011
1042:2022
1012:ISSN
1002:ISBN
963:ISBN
932:2022
923:Delo
903:2022
871:2022
844:2022
808:2022
783:2022
757:2022
729:2023
697:ISBN
671:2022
644:2022
619:2022
593:2022
568:2011
394:UIAA
115:and
31:The
23:The
1940::
1201:.
1139:^
1033:.
1010:.
994:22
992:.
986:.
940:^
896:37
894:.
888:.
816:^
799:.
773:.
748:.
737:^
720:.
679:^
627:^
584:.
556:.
527:,
519:,
321:sh
300:sl
287:sh
265:sh
232:sl
219:sh
198:sl
1459:)
1455:(
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1239:.
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1187:.
1161:.
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1077:.
1044:.
1018:.
971:.
934:.
905:.
873:.
846:.
810:.
785:.
759:.
731:.
705:.
673:.
646:.
621:.
595:.
570:.
35:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
