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Reactive training may be used to increase muscle recruitment rates by dynamically moving between the campus board rails simultaneously with one or both hands. Training on a campus board may result in better performance due to the improvement of motor training, increased finger strength on a variety of grips, and greater power and lock-off strength of the arms.
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Typically, a user ascends or descends the campus board using only their hands, and often leaping from hold to hold (i.e both hands are off the board while transitioning between holds). Campus boards can take a variety of different forms and may incorporate a variety of materials. The earliest campus
131:
training. As one example, a user may alternate the use of specific fingers to increase finger strength when ascending or descending the board. As another example, upper-body strength may be increased by utilizing large lunges between specific rails or holds of the campus board ("power throws").
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on the climbing holds so that climbers could follow pre-set sequences that could be shared by MoonBoard users world-wide (i.e. the grid of holds are identical on each MoonBoard edition), and with almost 200 holds, the online database for MoonBoard users had over fifty thousand
135:
The campus board has been a topic of controversy especially for newer or younger climbers, as it risks causing injuries to the climber's tendons due to improper technique or fatigue. As such, the campus board is generally not recommended for more novice or younger climbers.
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or sections of a pipe. A campus board is generally set at an overhanging angle of inclination. One consideration for selecting the angle of inclination is the avoidance of any interference that may result between the user's legs and the campus board or wall.
165:. Hence the term "campus" has been applied to the name of the training board, training method, and style of climbing, or "campusing" in which only the user's hands and arms are used. In French and in Italian, the campus board is referred to as
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After the development of the campus board, the hangboard (also called the fingerboard) was developed to focus on building static arm and finger strength. It is a popular training tool for rock climbers and comes in many forms and materials.
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boards, still used today, were made of horizontal thin slats or wood rails attached to an inclined board in a ladder-like configuration. Later versions have utilized bolt-on
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have been fixed in a dense grid-like fashion, with modern MoonBoards having almost 200 individual holds. The tool was first commercially manufactured by
British climbers
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Stien, Nicolay; Pedersen, Helene; Vereide, Vegard A.; Saeterbakken, Atle H.; Hermans, Espen; Kalland, Jarle; Schoenfeld, Brad J.; Andersen, Vidar (2021).
2018:
1987:
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368:"Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers"
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and Rich
Simpson in 2005, as a copy of the tools that they and other leading British climbers were using at an informal indoor climbing gym called
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There are a variety of training approaches that may be used with a campus board, but all of them are centered around the concept of
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as rudimentary indoor extreme training climbing walls that could fit into the basement of their house in
Sheffield.
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Other climbing training 'boards' have been developed since the campus board, including the
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The MoonBoard is a rectangular 2.44-metre (8.0-foot) by 3.25-metre (10.7-foot) section of
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in all rock climbing disciplines. The campus board was invented in 1988 by German climber
343:"Analysis of Contemporary Anaerobic Sport Specific Training Techniques for Rock Climbing"
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The first scientific analysis of campus board training was published in 2021.
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to help him climb the world's hardest consensus-graded route at the time,
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468:"Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training"
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Moon further developed the product and in 2016 released a version with
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169:. Early adopters of the campus board included British climbers
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526:"I was a doubter. Now the MoonBoard is My Go-to Training Tool"
95:, and has since become a standard training tool for climbers.
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1973:
Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
73:) is a training tool that has been widely adopted by
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International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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420:. Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers Books. p. 46.
442:"Jerry Moffatt's Classic 1990's Campus Board Film"
206:, typically overhanging at 40 degrees, onto which
151:in 1988 while he was training for a new extreme
147:The campus board was invented by German climber
81:performance and led to dramatic improvements in
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317:"A Beginner's Guide to Campus Board Training"
8:
2019:International Federation of Sport Climbing
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494:"The History of the MoonBoard by Ben Moon"
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372:Journal of Sports Science & Medicine
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341:Academy, U. S. Sports (2016-06-24).
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238:sequences for climbers to attempt.
552:Corrigan, Kevin (6 October 2022).
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1988:South African Climbing Federation
315:Walker, Noah (9 September 2022).
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960:IFSC World Championships winners
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27:Training tool for rock climbers
1958:British Mountaineering Council
1:
524:Samet, Matt (13 April 2023).
554:"Hangboarding For Everyone"
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582:Campus Board vs Hang Board
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1948:Appalachian Mountain Club
1863:Mountain Safety Research
1858:Mountain Equipment Co-op
280:History of rock climbing
1993:South Tyrol Alpine Club
1788:Eastern Mountain Sports
1654:Canadian Alpine Journal
1647:American Alpine Journal
910:Roof and tunnel hacking
285:Rock-climbing equipment
181:, at their German gym.
46:Board with wooden rungs
1813:Holubar Mountaineering
1625:Magazines and journals
955:IFSC World Cup winners
385:10.52082/jssm.2021.438
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198:Section of a MoonBoard
1938:Alpine Club of Canada
1848:Marmot Mountain Works
1803:GERRY Mountain Sports
592:What is Hangboarding?
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185:Other climbing boards
1968:Club Alpino Italiano
1953:Austrian Alpine Club
1943:American Alpine Club
416:Samet, Mike (2011).
2124:Climbing and health
1963:Club Alpin Français
1337:Mountaineering boot
950:Piolet d'Or winners
418:Climbing Dictionary
58:Training on a board
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275:Climbing technique
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220:Sheffield, England
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83:climbing technique
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448:. 17 October 2018
427:978-1-59485-502-3
347:The Sport Journal
77:to improve their
16:(Redirected from
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500:. 17 August 2018
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474:. 26 April 2016
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204:climbing wall
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171:Jerry Moffatt
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155:route called
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106:(or also the
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2003:USA Climbing
1903:Wild Country
1898:Therm-a-Rest
1740:
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1714:The Alpinist
1712:
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1593:Campus board
1592:
1548:First ascent
1292:Ice and snow
1089:Belay device
940:Alpine clubs
900:Ropes course
813:Alpine style
595:
585:
561:. Retrieved
557:
547:
535:. Retrieved
529:
502:. Retrieved
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476:. Retrieved
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399:. Retrieved
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350:. Retrieved
346:
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324:. Retrieved
320:
253:
228:
224:Andy Pollitt
201:
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107:
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70:
67:campus board
66:
64:
33:Campus board
2097:WikiProject
1933:Alpine Club
1928:Access Fund
1838:Lowe Alpine
1833:La Sportiva
1570:Fall factor
1463:Self-arrest
1439:Redpointing
1362:Snow anchor
1116:Boulder mat
1065:Daisy chain
1035:Terminology
1026:Terminology
905:Rooftopping
847:Hillwalking
835:Dry-tooling
801:Via ferrata
714:Traditional
692:Competition
673:Multi-pitch
656:Disciplines
478:28 November
452:28 November
401:28 November
378:: 437–447.
326:27 November
250:A hangboard
179:Kurt Albert
167:pan Güllich
143:Development
114:Description
108:fingerboard
71:pan Güllich
2113:Categories
1721:El Capitan
1485:Traversing
1434:Onsighting
1414:Glissading
1397:Dülfersitz
1392:Australian
1355:Transeiver
1300:Alpenstock
1233:Portaledge
1221:Copperhead
1160:Descenders
1094:Auto belay
885:Commercial
865:Buildering
842:Scrambling
752:Rock types
743:Top roping
680:Bouldering
596:HardClimbs
586:HardClimbs
352:2019-12-14
291:References
231:LED lights
129:plyometric
79:plyometric
1873:Patagonia
1756:Companies
1742:Hard Grit
1735:Free Solo
1603:MoonBoard
1598:Hangboard
1584:Training
1533:Guidebook
1508:Ape index
1473:Rope team
1387:Abseiling
1332:Ice screw
1238:Quickdraw
1121:Carabiner
1043:Equipment
1021:Technique
987:Equipment
870:Canyoning
808:Himalayan
736:Rope solo
726:Free solo
242:Hangboard
190:MoonBoard
163:Nuremberg
104:hangboard
100:MoonBoard
18:MoonBoard
2073:Category
1920:National
1818:JanSport
1793:Five Ten
1668:Desnivel
1661:Climbing
1640:Alpinist
1565:Exposure
1543:Chipping
1490:Tyrolean
1480:Spotting
1451:Crevasse
1429:Flashing
1419:Jumaring
1404:Belaying
1367:Snowshoe
1325:Ice tool
1315:Crampons
1165:Figure-8
1077:Ascender
945:Climbers
685:Highball
668:Big wall
633:Climbing
563:10 March
558:Climbing
531:Climbing
259:See also
212:Ben Moon
175:Ben Moon
2085:Commons
2039:(UIMLA)
2033:(UIAGM)
1424:Leading
1341:Rescue
1320:Ice axe
1270:Camalot
1204:Lanyard
1187:Skyhook
1172:Harness
1143:Dynamic
1126:Maillon
1099:Glasses
980:Everest
971:Deaths
890:Parkour
537:21 June
504:21 June
446:Gripped
395:8256519
321:Gripped
2061:Portal
2027:(UIAA)
2021:(IFSC)
1853:Millet
1843:Mammut
1808:Grivel
1778:Deuter
1696:Summit
1580:Guides
1575:Grades
1446:Rescue
1380:Action
1282:Tricam
1248:Grigri
1194:Hammer
1148:Static
1104:Gloves
1072:Anchor
992:Brands
796:Alpine
598:(2023)
588:(2023)
424:
392:
236:graded
1878:Petzl
1828:Kelty
1618:Media
1553:Pitch
1518:Clean
1501:Other
1350:RECCO
1277:Shoes
1265:SLCDs
1260:Sling
1228:Piton
1177:Hooks
1155:Chalk
1082:Croll
1060:Aider
997:Knots
933:Lists
915:Slide
880:Grass
875:Crane
858:Other
830:Mixed
759:Crack
709:Sport
697:Speed
640:Types
1768:CAMP
1558:Topo
1528:Beta
1456:Self
1253:Revo
1243:SLDs
1182:Fifi
1138:Cord
1111:Bolt
1052:Rock
920:Tree
895:Pole
774:Slab
769:Roof
764:Face
721:Solo
704:Free
565:2023
539:2024
506:2024
480:2022
454:2022
422:ISBN
403:2022
328:2022
173:and
69:(or
1888:REI
1883:Rab
1216:Nut
1209:PAC
1199:Hex
825:Ice
663:Aid
390:PMC
380:doi
218:in
2115::
594:,
584:,
556:.
528:.
514:^
496:.
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444:.
388:.
376:20
374:.
370:.
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319:.
299:^
65:A
625:e
618:t
611:v
567:.
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508:.
482:.
456:.
430:.
405:.
382::
355:.
330:.
20:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
