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Houses
Hugenin Frères & Co. Fabrique Niel and Fabriques Movado, holders of the patents and brand ERMETO warn all third parties against attempts to imitate the Ermeto watch. Publications have recently been made in watchmaking bodies, claiming <<Ermeto type>> watches. They are reminded
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It consisted of a watch contained within a rectangular case. The timepiece own case, comprising movement, dial, winding and hand-setting mechanism, forms an autonomous unit which in turn is enclosed by a two-part metal case. These parts can be drawn apart, like curtains, to reveal the dial and check
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The Ermeto, suspended in its covers which act as sturdy shock absorvers withstanding the most violent shocks, is handled like any other object: a lighter, a pocketknife, etc. The automatic winding Ermeto marks an important date in the history of Swiss watchmaking. Each time the hour is checked, it
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In 1930, an improvement was made by the case maker, applying a patent in
Switzerland for an automatic strut or leg that displayed when the two covers of the case were opened, and returned to a folding position when they were closed. Other Ermetos have a non automatic strut or none at all, like the
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The Ermeto range comprised four sizes, from smaller to bigger (approximate dimensions with the case closed included for reference purposes only, they may vary depending on each unit): "Baby" (43 x 26 mm), "Normal" (48 x 34 mm), "Master" (54 x 37 mm) and "Pullman" (100 x 70 mm).
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and A. Schild were used in the "Pullman" with alarm, and from A. Schild in the
Ermetophon as well. Those complications included a triple calendar called Calendermeto ("Normal" size), an alarm used in the Jumbo ("Pullman" size) and the Ermetophon ("Normal" size), and the date, as seen in the
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The timepiece was conceived to be used with or without a chain to be placed in a pocket, purse or bag. Many incorporated a folding hinged strut in the back of the watch itself, so when the covers were opened, allowed the timepiece to be placed on a desk or bedside table, acting as a travel
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The trademark Ermeto derives from the Greek ερμητικός, transliterated as ermētikós, which means "hermetic, sealed", in reference to the characterictics of the case design, emphasizing the watch protection against dust, moisture and shocks, although it was not
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The idea was offered to different watch makers but only Movado took it up. Initially, Huguenin Frères had developed it as a pendant watch but, after some modifications, Movado launched it in 1926 as the timepiece we know today.
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1929 ad in French showing the watches of the then King of
Belgium and Pope Pius XI. Below the woman's photo the footnote reads: "The "Normal" Ermeto in automatic winding for Gentlemen and for Ladies", promoting it as a unisex
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Despite this, several companies produced imitations of the watch, more than forty different models are known to have been made, but they couldn't repeat the Ermeto's success nor replicate the patented rack-winding system.
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In 1927, Isidore
Ditesheim, brother of Achille Ditesheim founder of Movado, invented a mechanism by which the movement could be wound with the opening and closing of the case, thus making unnecessary the manual winding.
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Crown detail of a 1928 "Normal" size Ermeto. The automatic version usually feature a crown engraved with three tiny oak leaves and a flower in the centre. The non automatic, a plain, undecorated crown.
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enamel, etc. Although the case rectangular shape remained unchanged during its lifetime, the style of dials and hands evolved with times and, if original to the watch, help to date a certain piece.
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This new system was only available in the so-called "Baby" and "Normal" models, according to the advertising of the period. In the second, the standard manual winding was also offered.
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at right showing a section of the piece: E) Inner winding. C) Air chamber. A) Watch (solid piece). F) Inner glass. B) Hard cover. D) Suspension point. G) Strut. D) Suspension point.
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1930 advertisement in French telling: Ermero "Master", standard winding. Ermeto "Normal", standard and automatic winding. Ermeto "Baby", automatic winding only
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60:). The model, a joint creation between case maker Huguenin Frères and watch maker Movado, was introduced in 1926. It won the Grand Prix at the
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The early success of the timepiece forced
Hugenin Frères and Movado to make a joint warning against copies in 1929, claiming the following:
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A 1929 advertisement in
Spanish, heading telling: The modern watch, Automatic or standard winding, The watch is not a fragile object anymore.
210:, etc. were interested in it, hence the Ermetos sold with those brand names in the dial. Sometimes it bore the name of a given retailer too.
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244:, whose watch was stolen from St. James Palace in 1994 and later returned to him. It is said that an early model was presented to
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that the watch and the brand Ermeto are protected in all countries. La Chaux-de-Fonds, 16 April 1929. Translated from the French.
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winds four hours by itself; if fully wound (36 hours) an automatic jump happens. There are no more breakings for overwinding.
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in the strict sense of the term. The rectangular case is made up of two sliding covers enclosing the timepiece inside.
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The patent was applied both in
Switzerland and the USA in late 1927. In 1928 was applied in the UK and France.
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The Ermeto's case design was first filed in
Germany on 12 October 1926 by Swiss case maker Hugenin Frères of
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Patent 278669, "Improvements related to Watch Cases", applied 24 June 1927, published 3 November 1927
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Patent 296721, "Winding Device for Time Pieces", applied 29 February 1928, published 7 February 1929
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number 443555 published 2 May 1927. The patent was also applied in
England and Switzerland in 1927.
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Patent 127820, "Pièce d'horlogerie à remontoir", applied 6 September 1927, published 1 October 1928
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1930 Ermeto leaflet showing the watches of Pius XI, Kings of Belgium and the then Prince of Wales
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Patent 1707906, "Winding Device for Timepieces", applied 3 December 1927, published 2 April 1929
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Ermetoscope ("Normal" size) featuring a glass with date magnifier, and Calendine ("Baby" size).
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Patent 656813, "Pièce d'horlogerie à remontoir", applied 29 June 1928, published 14 May 1929
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The latter a desk clock with an 8-day movement. The "Baby" was intended mainly for ladies'
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Article The Movado Ermeto: The Original "Smart" Watch by Lorenzo Maillard, March 2019
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Appraisal of Clara Bow's 1928 Ermeto in the Art Deco style, Antiques Roadshow US 1998
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Jenny Dalton, Travel clocks, Travel Unravelled (Financial Times), 13 May 2017, p. 69
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Alessandro M., "Always In Motion" - The Story of the Movado brand, 3 January 2021
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Zen Love, 3 Vintage Watches Illustrate Movado's Overlooked History, 12 April 2019
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Patent 149140, "Montre en étui", applied 8 April 1930, published 2 November 1931
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Nicolas Amsellem, Movado ERMETO: La montre moderne d'un autre temps, 19 May 2021
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Patent 126860, "Boîte de montre", applied 8 October 1927, published 2 July 1928
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skin. "Normal" size with automatic winding system called "Non-Stop" by Movado.
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When the two sliding halves of the outer case are moved back and forth, two
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Movado's advertising praised the benefits of its new "Non-Stop" system:
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Movado's advertising of the period claimed that the Ermeto represented "
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Among the historical figures known to have owned an Ermeto were
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Unlike many of its Swiss competitors, Movado was at that time a
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Hugenin Frères and Movado 1929 joint warning in French.
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Article The Movado Ermeto by Dan Henry, 18 April 2017
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265:A 1929 advertisement in Spanish with a
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537:Wristwatches: A Connoisseur's Guide
257:"Hermetic" case by Huguenin Frères
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297:Automatic winding case by Movado
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181:Le troisième âge de la montre
400:Ermeto trademark information
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238:Andy Warhol
189:wrist watch
58:Switzerland
22:chronometer
285:the time.
142:base metal
368:Citations
234:Clara Bow
166:guilloché
102:movements
671:Category
275:Le Locle
187:and the
150:galuchat
122:platinum
78:handbags
70:hermetic
267:diagram
252:History
218:Pius XI
204:Tiffany
196:Cartier
154:lacquer
148:skins,
146:reptile
134:vermeil
110:Lemania
84:model.
44:/purse
279:Patent
200:Hermès
162:enamel
158:niello
130:silver
92:model.
82:unisex
50:Movado
42:pocket
40:was a
26:lizard
323:racks
232:,
174:clock
138:steel
118:metal
46:watch
215:Pope
140:and
126:gold
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