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190:. Their designs and shows were similarly creative and theatrical. During the period in which their careers overlapped, fashion journalists compared and contrasted their work and career choices, and they have sometimes been referred to as rivals. McQueen, who had a competitive streak, resented being compared to Galliano and often sought to emulate or outdo Galliano's ideas in his own work.
250:, a technically complex design that was actually executed by costumier Karen Crichton. McQueen had long admired and sought to emulate the complicated construction of the original. According to his friend Sebastian Pons, McQueen owned numerous "copies and photographs" of Galliano's dress and would study them intently, trying to work out how it was constructed.
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He wanted this idea of it—was almost like she drowned—and the top part of the dress is all fine boning and tulle, and the chiffon is all frayed and dishevelled on the top. The skirt is made out of hundreds and hundreds of circles of organza. Then, with a pen, what Lee did was he drew organic lines.
359:
wrote that the dress exemplified the show's maritime theme, with chiffon layers that were "as soft and close as ripples on sand". Curator Kate
Bethune wrote that it portrayed a sense of "ragile femininity". Thomas called it "far more beautiful and elegant than the original" shellfish dress. Fashion
275:
pastry. An estimated 180–260 metres (200–285 yd) of fabric was required. According to McQueen, the gown took a month's work for three people to cut and assemble all the pieces. The cost was reportedly £45,000. In addition to the original beige dress, a version with a red
505:, noting that celebrities choosing vintage fashion was "basically the ultimate fashion flex right now". Fashion theorist Naomi Braithwaite argued that in acquiring archival fashion items, such as the oyster dress, Kardashian was attempting to integrate the
185:
art school in London: Galliano in 1984, and McQueen in 1992. Both had started their careers as independent designers before being hired by famous French fashion houses in the mid-1990s; McQueen had replaced
Galliano at Givenchy when Galliano went to
364:
labelled it "arguably the most important dress of the 21st century", and evidence that McQueen had expanded his skillset from his early focus on tailored designs and had mastered draping. Philosopher Gwenda-lin Grewal compared the
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brand, used the oyster dress technique for Pre-Spring/Summer 2021. Her version was in pink, with a transition to black on the neckline and the bottom of the skirt. The organza fabric was recycled from stock.
215:, and colourful dresses inspired by tropical birds. McQueen described the collection as an effort to present a more mature point of view and surprise viewers with bold colours. Contemporary reception for
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in 1987, which McQueen had long admired and sought to emulate. Contemporary critical response to McQueen's oyster dress was positive. It has become known as the most significant design from
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shell. According to McQueen, the gown took a month's work for three people, who cut and assembled all the pieces individually. In addition to the original beige dress, a version with a red
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Following the show, McQueen estimated that 20 orders had been placed for copies of the oyster dress. However, only two copies of the beige original are known to exist. The
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says that all garments were lent by the
Alexander McQueen archive unless otherwise noted. The oyster dress is not so noted, although The Met has owned its copy since 2003.
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641:"King McQueen: a mature Alexander McQueen cast aside the shock values (and even the adolescent rants) to produce a dazzling spring collection. (Movers Shakers)"
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And then all these circles were cut, joined together, and then applied in these lines along the skirt. So you created this organic, oyster-like effect.
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92:, and is considered an iconic piece of McQueen's work, surpassing the famed Galliano original. Only two copies are known to exist, one held by the
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377:, both of which adopted torn clothing for aesthetic reasons. Author Ana Finel Honigman found that the lightness of the frills contrasted with the
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upper body and a full-length skirt. Hundreds of individual circles of organza were sewn to the base fabric in dense layers, resembling an
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106:. McQueen returned to the oyster dress concept several times over his career, most prominently in his Autumn/Winter 2006 collection
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1005:
602:"'I want people to be afraid of the women I dress': the celebrated – and often controversial – designs of Alexander McQueen"
1006:"When Fashion Renegades John Galliano and Alexander McQueen Landed at Dior and Givenchy, Paris Fashion Was Forever Changed"
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of those objects into her own celebrity narrative, thereby increasing her own cultural significance by association.
323:, a longtime friend of McQueen's, wore it for a 2003 photo shoot. The rainbow oyster dress appeared on the cover of
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in
December 2002. Her version had a corset bodice and a pink skirt made from 250 metres (273 yd) of silk
136:
was known in the fashion industry for his imaginative, sometimes controversial designs. Although he worked in
1885:"Kim Kardashian buys Princess Diana's necklace – how the cult of celebrity creates value for fashion history"
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and the ruffled skirt in rainbow colours was also created. The beige and red versions appeared in the
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291:. The version with the rainbow skirt appeared in the final phase as Look 49, worn on the runway by
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called the "shellfish dress". Galliano's shellfish dress was named for its layers of "pearl grey"
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vintage boutique Lily et Cie. Its original owner was socialite Angie
Barrett, who wore it to the
140:– clothing produced for retail sale – his work featured a degree of craftsmanship that verged on
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was positive, with many in the industry calling it one of the best collections for that season.
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The oyster dress is considered an iconic McQueen design; according to Pons and journalist
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454:(the Met) in New York City acquired one in 2003, and it has appeared in the exhibitions
412:(Autumn/Winter 2006) as evolutions of the oyster dress, including the dress worn in the
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1530:"The historical significance of Kim Kardashian West's vintage Alexander McQueen dress"
743:"How Alexander McQueen changed the world of fashion – by the people who knew him best"
181:, who preceded him in the industry by about a decade. The men had each graduated from
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100:. The Met's copy has appeared in several exhibitions, particularly the retrospective
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upper body and a full-length skirt consisting of hundreds of individual circles of
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The dress originated as a reinterpretation of the "shellfish dress" designed by
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designs. From 1996 to 2001, he was head designer at French luxury design house
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2013:
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462:(2008). The Met's copy of the oyster dress appeared with other clothing from
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runway show, and were photographed for magazines to promote the collection.
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explores the rivalries and rising stars behind the 'golden age' of fashion"
890:"Fierce, feathered and fragile: how Alexander McQueen made fashion an art"
501:. In 2022, Rachel Tashjian described this as part of a trend for archival
406:. Authors Judith Watt and Dana Thomas both described several dresses from
283:
The original beige gown appeared in the first, pirate-themed phase of the
677:"From out of this world to the Third World – McQueen king of the catwalk"
254:
155:
54:
2698:
Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of
Alexander McQueen and John Galliano
2139:
Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of
Alexander McQueen and John Galliano
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402:
based on the oyster dress for the August 2004 wedding of his assistant
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355:, it surpassed the famed Galliano original. In a contemporary review,
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sewn in dense layers to the base fabric, resembling the outside of an
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266:
146:. Before launching his own label, McQueen apprenticed as a tailor on
74:
70:
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McQueen returned to the oyster dress concept several times. Actress
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appearance to create a "tension between gravity and transcendence".
177:
McQueen's career roughly paralleled that of fellow
British designer
370:
226:
119:
20:
1189:
1187:
1066:"11 Little-Known Facts About John Galliano and Alexander McQueen"
295:. Both versions appeared in magazines to promote the collection.
207:. He presented three sequential phases of ensembles: shipwrecked
247:
187:
2370:
1587:"High-kicking Cate and Catherine the great are premiere queens"
963:"Galliano, McQueen and the tragic end of fashion's wildest era"
1857:"How do designers make clothes for a vintage-obsessed world?"
1708:"How Alexander McQueen created a luxury collection from home"
388:
wore a variation of the oyster gown to the Paris premiere of
238:
The "oyster dress" is a reinterpretation of a 1987 design by
2357:
Alexander McQueen | Women's Spring/Summer 2003 | Runway Show
1829:"10 Celebrity Looks Brought Back from the Fashion Archives"
280:
and the ruffled skirt in rainbow colours was also created.
1345:
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1246:
1244:
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915:
491:
in 2003. In 2020, Kardashian wore the oyster dress to an
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710:"Alexander McQueen Spring 2003 ready-to-wear collection"
537:
The catalogue produced for the original 2011 staging of
422:, who replaced McQueen as the creative director for the
96:(the Met) in New York City and one by media personality
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1328:
1265:
1263:
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1204:
1202:
2027:. Vogue on Designers. London: Quadrille Publishing.
25:
The oyster dress as displayed during the exhibition
2728:
2679:
2623:
2430:
2404:
2111:What Alexander McQueen Can Teach You About Fashion
479:owns the other known oyster dress, purchased from
2236:Bethune, Kate. "Encyclopedia of Collections". In
466:in both stagings of the retrospective exhibition
339:magazine in March 2003, calling it the "Rainbow
53:. McQueen's design is a one-shouldered dress in
1471:"McQueen takes nautical theme to make a splash"
1280:
1278:
435:
1114:
1112:
766:"Savile Row's best tailors: Alexander McQueen"
253:McQueen's design is a one-shouldered dress in
2382:
1732:
1730:
1585:Davies, Hugh; Born, Matt (12 December 2002).
634:
632:
630:
628:
626:
624:
369:of the dress to the clothing of 19th-century
8:
2751:Super Bowl XXXVIII halftime show controversy
1523:
1521:
1519:
1517:
794:
569:"Six ways Alexander McQueen changed fashion"
562:
560:
299:wore the oyster dress for two photo shoots:
169:
159:
1286:"'Oyster' Dress, Irere, spring/summer 2003"
1120:"'Oyster' Dress, Irere, spring/summer 2003"
806:
2389:
2375:
2367:
2172:Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy
2086:Fashion | Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion
1403:. Spring–Summer 2003. p. Front cover.
1094:, pp. 84, 159, 256–257, 266, 325–326.
670:
668:
2262:Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin
567:Vaidyanathan, Rajini (12 February 2010).
43:gown created by British fashion designer
1572:
1364:"2003 – Alexander McQueen, oyster dress"
1349:
1496:
1250:
1032:Davies-Evitt, Dora (10 November 2022).
921:
875:
863:
703:
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699:
556:
530:
193:For his Spring/Summer 2003 collection,
2246:
2245:Lodwick, Keith. "Coup de Théâtre". In
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1883:Braithwaite, Naomi (2 February 2023).
1780:
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47:for his Spring/Summer 2003 collection
2333:"Women's Spring / Summer 03: 'Irere'"
2292:Young, Caroline; Martin, Ann (2017).
1855:Tashjian, Rachel (24 February 2022).
1791:
1789:
999:
997:
900:from the original on 23 November 2021
581:from the original on 22 February 2010
391:The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers
150:, and he became known for a focus on
7:
1362:Kalonaros, Vassiliki (7 July 2021).
1334:
1269:
1208:
833:from the original on 6 February 2023
329:for their Spring/Summer 2003 issue.
199:, McQueen took inspiration from the
1150:
675:Diderich, Joelle (7 October 2002).
2442:Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims
1687:from the original on 25 April 2023
1528:de Klerk, Amy (10 February 2020).
1165:"Paris back to normal, but barely"
600:McNeil, Peter (12 December 2022).
416:that served as the show's finale.
14:
1962:. Oxford History of Art. Oxford:
1897:from the original on 16 June 2023
1827:Gruber, Lauren (25 August 2022).
1706:Harumi, Luana (28 January 2021).
1163:Todd, Stephen (25 October 2002).
741:Doig, Stephen (30 January 2023).
305:in January 2003, photographed by
2689:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
1926:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
1750:from the original on 15 May 2023
1627:from the original on 4 June 2023
1542:from the original on 15 May 2023
1378:from the original on 15 May 2023
1298:from the original on 22 May 2023
1132:from the original on 22 May 2023
1064:Hartman, Eviana (6 March 2015).
819:Fox, Imogen (11 February 2010).
722:from the original on 15 May 2023
653:from the original on 1 June 2023
639:Socha, Miles (4 November 2002).
540:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
469:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
287:runway show as Look 18, worn by
103:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
28:Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
1372:Fashion Institute of Technology
1004:Mower, Sarah (31 August 2015).
776:from the original on 9 May 2021
708:Mower, Sarah (4 October 2002).
315:in March 2003, photographed by
246:ruffles that resembled stacked
16:2003 dress by Alexander McQueen
2612:The Girl Who Lived in the Tree
1675:"The woman who became McQueen"
333:wore it for a photo shoot for
1:
2562:The Dance of the Twisted Bull
1956:Breward, Christopher (2003).
1238:, pp. 56, 275, 326, 338.
888:Wilson, Ben (7 March 2015a).
764:Carwell, Nick (26 May 2016).
460:Blog Mode: Addressing Fashion
2445:(1992 graduation collection)
2108:Honigman, Ana Finel (2021).
2053:Alexander McQueen: Evolution
821:"Alexander McQueen obituary"
2083:Grewal, Gwenda-lin (2022).
2050:Gleason, Katherine (2012).
2024:Vogue On: Alexander McQueen
456:Goddess: The Classical Mode
223:Development and runway show
2827:
2422:(former creative director)
1994:. New Haven, Connecticut:
1931:Metropolitan Museum of Art
1743:Metropolitan Museum of Art
1291:Metropolitan Museum of Art
1125:Metropolitan Museum of Art
519:List of individual dresses
452:Metropolitan Museum of Art
168:, the dressmaking side of
94:Metropolitan Museum of Art
2760:
1991:Alexander McQueen: Unseen
1415:"Rainbow – the colors of
1368:Fashion History Timeline
1196:, pp. 56, 275, 338.
795:Fairer & Wilcox 2016
2720:(2018 documentary film)
2512:It's a Jungle Out There
2300:Frances Lincoln Limited
1964:Oxford University Press
1034:"Explosive docu-series
807:Young & Martin 2017
2602:The Widows of Culloden
1223:, pp. 49, 56, 58.
440:
409:The Widows of Culloden
235:
170:
160:
129:
109:The Widows of Culloden
32:
2646:Illusion of Kate Moss
2169:Watt, Judith (2012).
2058:Race Point Publishing
1996:Yale University Press
414:illusion of Kate Moss
398:. McQueen designed a
230:
183:Central Saint Martins
123:
24:
2770:†A/W = Autumn/Winter
2765:‡S/S = Spring/Summer
1783:, pp. 232, 234.
1615:"McQueen's princess"
1467:Cartner-Morley, Jess
1456:, pp. 326, 338.
961:(20 February 2015).
485:Cannes Film Festival
2343:on 19 November 2010
2249:, pp. 247–251.
2240:, pp. 303–326.
2091:Bloomsbury Academic
2021:Fox, Chloe (2012).
1673:(3 February 2023).
1623:. 8 December 2003.
1592:The Daily Telegraph
866:, pp. 232–233.
854:, pp. 379–380.
753:on 30 January 2023.
747:The Daily Telegraph
357:Jess Cartner-Morley
158:, where he learned
124:Shellfish dress by
2806:Individual dresses
2267:Simon and Schuster
2144:Penguin Publishing
1620:Women's Wear Daily
1469:(7 October 2002).
968:The Globe and Mail
646:Women's Wear Daily
475:Media personality
236:
130:
33:
2796:Alexander McQueen
2778:
2777:
2582:Pantheon ad Lucem
2413:Alexander McQueen
2398:Alexander McQueen
2337:Alexander McQueen
2309:978-0-7112-3822-0
2276:978-1-4767-7674-3
2265:. New York City:
2220:978-1-4197-1723-9
2209:. New York City:
2207:Alexander McQueen
2186:978-1-84796-085-6
2175:. New York City:
2153:978-1-101-61795-3
2142:. New York City:
2125:978-0-7112-5906-5
2100:978-1-350-20148-4
2067:978-1-61058-837-9
2056:. New York City:
2005:978-0-300-22267-8
1973:978-0-19-158773-3
1940:978-1-58839-412-5
1929:. New York City:
1799:(19 March 2007).
1036:Kingdom of Dreams
493:Oscars afterparty
424:Alexander McQueen
373:and 20th-century
297:Natalia Vodianova
289:Letícia Birkheuer
205:Amazon rainforest
134:Alexander McQueen
132:British designer
45:Alexander McQueen
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2339:. Archived from
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2165:
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2017:
1977:
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1890:The Conversation
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1801:"Dressin' Texan"
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1738:"'Oyster dress'"
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1431:. Archived from
1411:
1405:
1404:
1397:"On the Stage".
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749:. Archived from
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705:
694:
693:
691:
689:
682:The Courier Mail
672:
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607:The Conversation
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507:cultural history
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201:Age of Discovery
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2801:British fashion
2791:2002 in fashion
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2670:Union Jack coat
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2116:Frances Lincoln
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1435:on 15 June 2012
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503:red carpet wear
489:Beaux-Arts Ball
448:
442:
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349:
321:Daphne Guinness
317:Peter Lindbergh
312:Harper's Bazaar
225:
118:
17:
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2632:Armadillo shoe
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2326:External links
2324:
2323:
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2295:Tartan + Tweed
2289:
2275:
2257:Wilson, Andrew
2253:
2252:
2251:
2242:
2219:
2205:, ed. (2015).
2203:Wilcox, Claire
2199:
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2124:
2105:
2099:
2080:
2066:
2047:
2034:978-1849491136
2033:
2018:
2004:
1986:Wilcox, Claire
1982:Fairer, Robert
1978:
1972:
1953:
1939:
1921:Bolton, Andrew
1915:
1912:
1909:
1908:
1875:
1847:
1819:
1806:The New Yorker
1797:Marx, Patricia
1785:
1773:
1771:, p. 232.
1761:
1726:
1698:
1662:
1660:, p. 293.
1650:
1648:, p. 280.
1638:
1606:
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1553:
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1501:
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1324:
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1255:
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1240:
1225:
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1211:, p. 230.
1198:
1183:
1170:The Australian
1155:
1143:
1108:
1106:, p. 142.
1096:
1084:
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1024:
993:
991:, p. 224.
981:
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938:
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911:
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868:
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477:Kim Kardashian
434:
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367:destroyed look
348:
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293:Michelle Alves
233:Pacific oyster
224:
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117:
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98:Kim Kardashian
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2177:Harper Design
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1575:, p. 42.
1574:
1573:Honigman 2021
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1351:
1350:Honigman 2021
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959:Beker, Jeanne
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797:, p. 14.
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431:Extant copies
430:
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405:
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400:wedding dress
397:
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379:deconstructed
376:
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362:Andrew Bolton
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272:mille-feuille
268:
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249:
245:
241:
240:John Galliano
234:
229:
222:
220:
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214:
213:conquistadors
211:, black-clad
210:
206:
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198:
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191:
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184:
180:
179:John Galliano
175:
172:
171:haute couture
167:
162:
157:
153:
149:
145:
144:
143:haute couture
139:
138:ready-to-wear
135:
127:
126:John Galliano
122:
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105:
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87:
86:John Galliano
82:
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52:
51:
46:
42:
38:
30:
29:
23:
19:
2715:
2705:
2696:
2687:
2660:
2653:Oyster dress
2652:
2610:
2600:
2590:
2580:
2570:
2560:
2550:
2540:
2532:The Overlook
2530:
2520:
2510:
2500:
2490:
2480:
2470:
2460:
2450:
2440:
2420:Sarah Burton
2345:. Retrieved
2341:the original
2294:
2261:
2211:Abrams Books
2206:
2171:
2138:
2134:Thomas, Dana
2110:
2085:
2052:
2023:
1990:
1958:
1925:
1914:Bibliography
1899:. Retrieved
1888:
1878:
1866:. Retrieved
1860:
1850:
1838:. Retrieved
1832:
1822:
1810:. Retrieved
1804:
1776:
1764:
1752:. Retrieved
1741:
1717:. Retrieved
1711:
1701:
1689:. Retrieved
1678:
1671:Horyn, Cathy
1665:
1653:
1641:
1629:. Retrieved
1618:
1609:
1597:. Retrieved
1590:
1580:
1568:
1556:
1544:. Retrieved
1533:
1504:
1497:Bethune 2015
1492:
1480:. Retrieved
1476:The Guardian
1474:
1461:
1449:
1437:. Retrieved
1433:the original
1426:
1420:
1416:
1409:
1400:Vogue Italia
1398:
1392:
1380:. Retrieved
1367:
1357:
1300:. Retrieved
1289:
1251:Gleason 2012
1216:
1174:. Retrieved
1168:
1158:
1146:
1134:. Retrieved
1123:
1099:
1087:
1075:. Retrieved
1069:
1059:
1047:. Retrieved
1041:
1035:
1027:
1015:. Retrieved
1009:
984:
972:. Retrieved
966:
953:
941:
936:, p. 3.
929:
922:Breward 2003
902:. Retrieved
894:The Guardian
893:
883:
876:Lodwick 2015
871:
864:Breward 2003
859:
847:
835:. Retrieved
826:The Guardian
824:
814:
802:
790:
778:. Retrieved
769:
759:
751:the original
746:
736:
724:. Retrieved
713:
686:. Retrieved
680:
655:. Retrieved
644:
611:. Retrieved
605:
595:
583:. Retrieved
574:BBC Magazine
572:
538:
533:
497:
474:
467:
463:
459:
455:
449:
444:Sarah Burton
441:
436:
420:Sarah Burton
418:
407:
404:Sarah Burton
389:
383:
350:
334:
326:Vogue Italia
324:
319:. Socialite
310:
307:Craig McDean
300:
284:
282:
270:
252:
237:
216:
195:
192:
176:
141:
131:
107:
101:
89:
83:
78:
49:
41:high fashion
37:oyster dress
36:
34:
26:
18:
2744:Shaun Leane
2710:(2015 play)
2465:(S/S 1994)‡
2455:(A/W 1993)†
2452:Taxi Driver
2432:Collections
1781:Bolton 2011
1769:Bolton 2011
1658:Wilson 2015
1646:Wilson 2015
1595:. p. 3
1561:Grewal 2022
1509:Thomas 2015
1454:Thomas 2015
1320:Wilson 2015
1236:Thomas 2015
1221:Thomas 2015
1194:Thomas 2015
1104:Wilson 2015
1092:Thomas 2015
989:Wilson 2015
946:Thomas 2015
934:Thomas 2015
852:Thomas 2015
770:GQ Magazine
498:Vanity Fair
481:Los Angeles
458:(2003) and
353:Dana Thomas
269:shell or a
257:beige silk
231:Shell of a
57:beige silk
2785:Categories
2615:(A/W 2008)
2605:(A/W 2006)
2595:(S/S 2006)
2585:(A/W 2004)
2575:(S/S 2003)
2565:(S/S 2002)
2555:(S/S 2001)
2545:(S/S 2000)
2535:(A/W 1999)
2525:(A/W 1998)
2515:(A/W 1997)
2505:(A/W 1996)
2495:(S/S 1996)
2492:The Hunger
2485:(A/W 1995)
2475:(S/S 1995)
2347:6 November
2298:. London:
2285:1310585849
2114:. London:
2089:. London:
1834:L'Officiel
1071:T Magazine
837:6 February
551:References
495:hosted by
331:Joy Bryant
248:clamshells
148:Savile Row
116:Background
2472:The Birds
2318:947020251
2229:891618596
2195:892706946
2162:951153602
2076:783147416
2043:828766756
2014:946216643
1949:687693871
1599:28 August
1423:magazine"
1419:– inside
1335:Watt 2012
1270:Watt 2012
1209:Watt 2012
386:Liv Tyler
343:" dress.
2680:In media
2462:Nihilism
2259:(2015).
2136:(2015).
1988:(2016).
1923:(2011).
1895:Archived
1748:Archived
1719:4 August
1685:Archived
1625:Archived
1540:Archived
1376:Archived
1296:Archived
1151:Fox 2012
1130:Archived
904:20 March
898:Archived
831:Archived
780:31 March
774:Archived
720:Archived
651:Archived
579:Archived
513:See also
360:curator
255:bias-cut
203:and the
156:Givenchy
152:tailored
55:bias-cut
2729:Related
2717:McQueen
2707:McQueen
2639:Bumster
2624:Designs
2592:Neptune
2362:YouTube
1959:Fashion
1901:16 June
1868:25 June
1840:25 June
1812:25 June
1691:14 June
1680:The Cut
1482:14 June
1439:16 June
1428:InStyle
1421:InStyle
1417:InStyle
1176:14 June
1077:22 July
1049:22 July
1017:27 July
974:27 July
613:22 July
396:organza
371:dandies
336:InStyle
261:with a
259:chiffon
244:organza
209:pirates
166:draping
161:le flou
67:organza
61:with a
59:chiffon
2663:finale
2661:No. 13
2316:
2306:
2283:
2273:
2227:
2217:
2193:
2183:
2160:
2150:
2122:
2097:
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