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Unlike his
Italian colleagues, Mehdi hadn't been given proper high-altitude snow boots. He was wearing regular army boots - according to some reports, they were two sizes too small for him. He developed severe frostbite, and was unable to walk by the time he reached base camp. He had to be carried on
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It was later revealed that
Compagnoni had deliberately moved the camp because he wanted to prevent Bonatti and Mehdi from joining the summit bid. Compagnoni apparently feared that Bonatti, who was younger and fitter, was going to steal the limelight, perhaps by climbing without supplemental oxygen.
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a stretcher to a hospital in the town of Skardu, where he was given first aid, and transferred from there to a military hospital in
Rawalpindi. Doctors had no choice but to amputate all his toes to prevent gangrene from spreading. He was not released from the hospital until eight months later.
205:, who wanted to prevent Bonatti from reaching the summit, and were forced to huddle on an ice ledge overnight at 8,100 metres (26,600 ft), the highest ever open bivouac at the time. As Mehdi was wearing standard army boots, he lost all his toes to
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Mehdi left mountaineering after the K2 attempt. The
Italian government claimed it awarded him a pension, but his son denied this. Amir served briefly as a government servant of Pakistan, before living out the rest of his modest life in his hometown
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Compagnoni intended for Mehdi and
Bonatti to see that the bivouac tent was out of reach, and return to a lower camp, but night fell, and Mehdi was in no condition to climb back down, so the two had to dig into snow for shelter.
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When he finally returned home to his village in Hunza, Mehdi put away his ice axe and told his family he never wanted to see it again.
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from Munich, while the expedition leader was Peter
Aschenbrenner from Innsbruck, who had participated in the 1932 and 1934 attempts.
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181:, Amir Mehdi and Haji Baig. They later helped Buhl during his descent, when he was caught by frostbite and lost his crampon.
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149:, are also known for having survived a night at the highest open bivouac - 8,100 metres (26,600 ft) - on K2 in 1954.
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Mehdi was given the title of 'Hunza Tiger' for the services rendered during the ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953.
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mountaineer and porter known for being part of the team which made the first successful ascent of
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Buried in the Sky: The
Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Da
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1953 a German-Austrian team embarked on an expedition to Nanga Parbat
169:. The expedition was organized by the half-brother of Willy Merkl,
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with an
Italian expedition. He, along with the Italian mountaineer
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Mehdi also received the
Italian civilian medal, Al Valor Civile.
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and spent 8 months in hospital recovering from the ordeal.
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315:"Amir Mehdi: Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten"
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Ice Axe used by Amir Mehdi, during 1954's K2 ascent
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361:"Nanga Parbat - Rakhiot Flank - East Ridge - 1953"
249:The Italian government awarded him the rank of
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16:Pakistani mountaineer and porter (1913–1999)
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411:Zuckerman, Peter; Padoan, Amanda (2012).
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90:1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2
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236:Mehdi died of old-age in 1999, in
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336:"Bonatti e il K2, la vera storia"
386:Jillani, Shahzeb (2014-08-07).
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467:People from Gilgit-Baltistan
62:1999 (aged 85–86)
447:Pakistani mountain climbers
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388:"Left out to freeze on K2"
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340:nationalgeographic.it
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129:, and also known as
36:Personal information
367:. 21 September 2013
153:Nanga Parbat (1953)
133:; 1913–1999) was a
125:(sometimes spelled
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477:Pakistani amputees
472:Pakistani Ismailis
365:himalayamasala.com
199:Achille Compagnoni
191:Italian expedition
171:Karl Herrligkoffer
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462:People from Hunza
244:Awards and titles
197:were stranded by
193:, Amir Mehdi and
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141:in 1953, and of
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318:. Retrieved
290:Hunza Valley
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175:Hermann Buhl
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139:Nanga Parbat
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112:first ascent
100:Nanga Parbat
457:1999 deaths
452:1913 births
280:Samina Baig
275:Ashraf Aman
270:Nazir Sabir
189:During the
131:Hunza Mehdi
80:Mountaineer
41:Nationality
441:Categories
397:2018-12-11
296:References
231:Hassanabad
143:K2 in 1954
127:Amir Mahdi
123:Amir Mehdi
21:Amir Mehdi
251:cavaliere
207:frostbite
185:K2 (1954)
135:Pakistani
86:Known for
45:Pakistani
392:BBC News
371:24 April
345:24 April
320:7 August
264:See also
165:In July
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238:Hunza
179:Hunza
421:ISBN
373:2017
347:2017
322:2014
201:and
59:Died
54:1913
51:Born
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110:K2
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Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
