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on this design including DMM's "cardiac arrester" which does the same thing but in which the larger loop is shaped like a heart. It is designed to help stop rope twisting. Figure eights, although not the most common belay device, are still frequently found in use. For most uses, a tubular style belay device is easier and safer to use. However, due to their tendency to twist rope and general disagreement about their safety, figure eights are often banned in climbing gyms.
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152:. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Belay devices act as a friction brake, so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is brought to a stop.
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the rope from passing through the belay device. The terms "self-" or "auto-locking" are discouraged, because it is necessary to always keep the brake hand on the rope, there being conditions outside the correct function of braking. For example, icy, muddy, worn, or too-thin of a rope, and insufficient training and experience.
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techniques for instructing new belayers. GRIGRI's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow little to no rope slippage when catching a fall. On the upside, this is offset by the fact that the person being belayed falls a shorter distance. They are a proprietary design by
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Using a Grigri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Grigri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. This increases the amount of force exerted on the anchor which, in turn, increases the chance of anchor failure.
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One of the most popular devices, a Grigri, when properly used, assists in braking the rope with a camming device that clamps the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the braking mechanism, modified belay techniques are widely used, though Petzl, the device's manufacturer, has approved only certain
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Sometimes just called an "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender. A figure eight belay devices are used for belaying. There are some which are designed specifically for belaying, however they are not generally popular due to the tendency to twist the rope. There are also variations
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Under the right conditions, assisted braking devices (ABDs) use a sudden load on the rope to engage a camming mechanism (known as active, or mechanically assisted braking devices) or pull the belay carabiner into a pinch point (known as passive, or geometrically assisted braking devices) to prevent
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An auto-belay device may operate using friction, centrifugal force, hydraulics, or magnetic braking technology. Auto-belay devices using magnetism as the main breaking mechanism are currently the most used, as they are self regulating. When a climber descends on a magnetic auto-belay, the speed of
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Some plates had two slots for double ropes. The slots could also be different sizes for different diameter ropes e.g. 9 mm and 11 mm. A wide wire spring may be attached on one side to help keep the plate away from the brake carabiner to ease feeding and taking in rope. A smaller hole is
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A similar device to the traditional tubular belay device which has two extra loops; normally situated on the front and back of the device. When the device is attached directly to an anchor point with the use of a second carabiner through the larger of the two loops it performs a similar stopping
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Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping
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Typically, when the rope is held outward, away from the body, it moves relatively freely, so the belayer can take up or pay out slack. When the rope is brought backward, to the side of the body, the rope is forced into tight bends and rubs against the device and/or against itself, allowing the
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belayer to arrest the descent of a climber in the case of a fall. This rubbing slows the rope, but also generates heat. Some types of belay devices can arrest a fall without the belayer taking any action, while others require the belayer to hold or pull the rope in a particular direction.
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The Revo combines the easy and dynamic handling of a tuber with the backup by a centrifugal brake. Paying out and taking in rope works fluently without resistance. Only when the rope rushes with a faster speed than 4 metre/second through the device, it arrests within a few centimetres.
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where the climber wears the belay device, or secures it to a fixed object on the ground. These devices automatically lock without any intervention when the rope passing through reaches a sufficient velocity (during a fall), but allow rope to move relatively freely whilst climbing.
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A guide plate, also known as an auto-blocking belay device, is a metal plate with an elongated slot for the bight to go through and then a carabiner is attached so that when pull from the climber occurs the carabiner will be pulled to lock off the device. Examples include the
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Although any belaying plate with one or two slots is often called a Sticht plate, Fritz Sticht originally patented the design with
Hermann Huber for Salewa GmbH in 1970, who sold it as the Salewa Sticht Bremse (Sticht Brake).
223:. It consists of a small metal plate with a slot that allows a bight of rope to pass through to a locking carabiner and back out. This locking carabiner is clipped to the belayer who is then able to lock the rope at will.
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Many belay devices can be used to control either one rope, or two ropes in parallel. There are many reasons why the two-rope option might be chosen by a climber, including the consideration of reducing
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often present for accessory cord to carry the device. Sticht plates are typically forged from aluminium alloy in a round disc shape, although other shapes such as rounded rectangles were also made.
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devices belay climbers automatically, without needing a second person. While used by solo climbers outdoors, such devices are most commonly found hanging on or fixed to an artificially made
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power. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device used. The most common form of this kind of tubular belay device is the ATC, an acronym for "air traffic control".
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The original
Grigris rated for 10 to 11 mm single ropes, while the newer, smaller Grigri 2 is rated for 8.9 to 11 mm single ropes and optimized for 9.4 to 10.3 mm ropes.
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Sticht plates have become less popular since more modern designs provide smoother control over the rope and are less prone to jamming, especially when doubling as a descender.
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function to that created with the guide plate. The device is also able to be used as a standard tubular device when belaying from the harness.
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There aren't any auto-lockng belay devices outside of climbing walls because the "official" term is assisted locking braking device
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sells a similar assisted braking belay device called the Cinch that is rated to work on ropes from 9.4 to 11 mm.
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hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking."
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devices on the market which allow a climber to climb solo in their climbing gym.
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The Sticht plate was the first mechanical rope brake, named after its designer,
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Besides arresting the fall of a climber, these devices can also be used for
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http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Belay-devices--descenders/GRIGRI-2#descriptif
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Belay devices usually attach to the harness of the belayer via a
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529:"The DMM Pivot: Innovation Worth the Effort - Alpinist.com"
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and then hook it into a locking carabiner on the harness.
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their descent is proportional to the climbers weight.
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Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
636:"How Do Auto Belays Work: What's Going on in There?"
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471:Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2003).
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477:(7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers.
403:Self-belay devices are designed to allow
120:Learn how and when to remove this message
474:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
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27:Mechanical piece of climbing equipment
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603:Description of GRIGRI-2 at petzl.com
58:adding citations to reliable sources
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399:"Silent Partner" self-belay device.
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195:This is a device that you feed a
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1034:IFSC World Championships winners
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2032:British Mountaineering Council
148:used to control a rope during
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18:Assisted braking belay device
584:"Autoblocking Belay Devices"
376:Wild Country (Oberalp) Revo.
307:Reverso (climbing equipment)
136:Petzl Reverso, Verso, GRIGRI
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2022:Appalachian Mountain Club
557:"Auto Lock Belay Devices"
270:A figure-eight descender.
144:is a mechanical piece of
2198:Mountaineering equipment
1937:Mountain Safety Research
1932:Mountain Equipment Co-op
616:. Head Rush Technologies
2067:South Tyrol Alpine Club
1862:Eastern Mountain Sports
1728:Canadian Alpine Journal
1721:American Alpine Journal
984:Roof and tunnel hacking
452:Rock-climbing equipment
1887:Holubar Mountaineering
1699:Magazines and journals
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1922:Marmot Mountain Works
1877:GERRY Mountain Sports
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2042:Club Alpino Italiano
2027:Austrian Alpine Club
2017:American Alpine Club
672:at Wikimedia Commons
54:improve this article
2037:Club Alpin Français
1411:Mountaineering boot
1024:Piolet d'Or winners
535:. 30 September 2016
391:Self-locking device
2193:Climbing equipment
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614:"Why Auto Belay?"
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1088:First ascents
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722:Rock climbing
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484:0-89886-828-9
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421:climbing wall
418:
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405:solo climbing
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315:Petzl Reverso
313:
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261:
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252:
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215:Sticht plate.
213:
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74:
71: –
70:
66:
65:Find sources:
59:
55:
49:
48:
43:This article
41:
37:
32:
31:
19:
2169:
2157:
2145:
2133:
2077:USA Climbing
1977:Wild Country
1972:Therm-a-Rest
1814:
1807:
1800:
1793:
1788:The Alpinist
1786:
1768:
1761:
1754:
1747:
1740:
1733:
1726:
1719:
1712:
1705:
1667:Campus board
1622:First ascent
1366:Ice and snow
1163:Belay device
1162:
1014:Alpine clubs
974:Ropes course
887:Alpine style
670:Belay device
644:. Retrieved
639:
630:
618:. Retrieved
608:
596:
588:the original
578:
570:
564:. Retrieved
560:
551:
543:
537:. Retrieved
532:
523:
504:
493:
472:
466:
425:
415:
402:
379:
356:
349:
341:
338:Petzl Grigri
318:
291:
282:
273:
262:Figure eight
253:
249:
233:
229:
225:
221:Fritz Sticht
218:
207:Sticht plate
194:
177:
169:
158:
154:
142:belay device
141:
139:
116:
107:
97:
90:
83:
76:
64:
52:Please help
47:verification
44:
2171:WikiProject
2007:Alpine Club
2002:Access Fund
1912:Lowe Alpine
1907:La Sportiva
1644:Fall factor
1537:Self-arrest
1513:Redpointing
1436:Snow anchor
1190:Boulder mat
1139:Daisy chain
1109:Terminology
1100:Terminology
979:Rooftopping
921:Hillwalking
909:Dry-tooling
875:Via ferrata
788:Traditional
766:Competition
747:Multi-pitch
730:Disciplines
288:Guide plate
2187:Categories
1795:El Capitan
1559:Traversing
1508:Onsighting
1488:Glissading
1471:Dülfersitz
1466:Australian
1429:Transeiver
1374:Alpenstock
1307:Portaledge
1295:Copperhead
1234:Descenders
1168:Auto belay
959:Commercial
939:Buildering
916:Scrambling
826:Rock types
817:Top roping
754:Bouldering
646:2022-05-27
566:2018-03-31
539:2018-03-31
510:US2628653A
458:References
417:Auto-belay
412:Auto-belay
385:Self-belay
256:rappelling
180:auto-belay
110:March 2024
80:newspapers
1947:Patagonia
1830:Companies
1816:Hard Grit
1809:Free Solo
1677:MoonBoard
1672:Hangboard
1658:Training
1607:Guidebook
1582:Ape index
1547:Rope team
1461:Abseiling
1406:Ice screw
1312:Quickdraw
1195:Carabiner
1117:Equipment
1095:Technique
1061:Equipment
944:Canyoning
882:Himalayan
810:Rope solo
800:Free solo
297:by Kong.
173:rope drag
165:abseiling
161:carabiner
2147:Category
1994:National
1892:JanSport
1867:Five Ten
1742:Desnivel
1735:Climbing
1714:Alpinist
1639:Exposure
1617:Chipping
1564:Tyrolean
1554:Spotting
1525:Crevasse
1503:Flashing
1493:Jumaring
1478:Belaying
1441:Snowshoe
1399:Ice tool
1389:Crampons
1239:Figure-8
1151:Ascender
1019:Climbers
759:Highball
742:Big wall
707:Climbing
447:Climbing
437:Belaying
431:See also
201:aperture
191:Aperture
150:belaying
2159:Commons
2113:(UIMLA)
2107:(UIAGM)
1498:Leading
1415:Rescue
1394:Ice axe
1344:Camalot
1278:Lanyard
1261:Skyhook
1246:Harness
1217:Dynamic
1200:Maillon
1173:Glasses
1054:Everest
1045:Deaths
964:Parkour
620:7 March
238:Tubular
94:scholar
2135:Portal
2101:(UIAA)
2095:(IFSC)
1927:Millet
1917:Mammut
1882:Grivel
1852:Deuter
1770:Summit
1654:Guides
1649:Grades
1520:Rescue
1454:Action
1356:Tricam
1322:Grigri
1268:Hammer
1222:Static
1178:Gloves
1146:Anchor
1066:Brands
870:Alpine
516:
481:
352:Trango
330:Grigri
324:Grigri
96:
89:
82:
75:
67:
1952:Petzl
1902:Kelty
1692:Media
1627:Pitch
1592:Clean
1575:Other
1424:RECCO
1351:Shoes
1339:SLCDs
1334:Sling
1302:Piton
1251:Hooks
1229:Chalk
1156:Croll
1134:Aider
1071:Knots
1007:Lists
989:Slide
954:Grass
949:Crane
932:Other
904:Mixed
833:Crack
783:Sport
771:Speed
714:Types
345:Petzl
197:bight
186:Types
101:JSTOR
87:books
1842:CAMP
1632:Topo
1602:Beta
1530:Self
1327:Revo
1317:SLDs
1256:Fifi
1212:Cord
1185:Bolt
1126:Rock
994:Tree
969:Pole
848:Slab
843:Roof
838:Face
795:Solo
778:Free
622:2014
479:ISBN
362:Revo
295:GiGi
73:news
1962:REI
1957:Rab
1290:Nut
1283:PAC
1273:Hex
899:Ice
737:Aid
56:by
2189::
638:.
569:.
559:.
542:.
531:.
423:.
347:.
175:.
140:A
699:e
692:t
685:v
649:.
624:.
487:.
123:)
117:(
112:)
108:(
98:·
91:·
84:·
77:·
50:.
20:)
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