Knowledge (XXG)

Diamond cut

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1040:, owing to its inability to resolve the stone's dispersive fire. Conversely, large diamonds are usually given fancy cuts with many extra facets. Conventional round brilliant or fancy cuts do not scale up satisfactorily, so the extra facets are needed to ensure there are no "dead spots". Because large diamonds are less likely to be set in jewelry, their cuts are considered for how well they display the diamonds' properties from a wide range of viewing directions; in the case of more moderate-sized diamonds, the cuts are considered primarily for their face-up appeal. 2338:" is the most difficult part for a consumer to judge when selecting a good diamond. This is because some certificates do not show the important measurements influencing cut (such as the pavilion angle and crown angle) and do not provide a subjective ranking of how good the cut was. The other three Cs can be ranked simply by the rating in each category. It requires a trained eye to judge the quality of a diamond cut, and the task is complicated by the fact that different standards are used in different countries (see 1351:(1968) The Ideal and Parker brilliants are disused because their proportions result in (by contemporary standards) an unacceptably low brilliance. The Eulitz cut is the only other mathematically derived benchmark; it is also historically the only benchmark to consider girdle thickness. A more modern benchmark is that set by Accredited Gem Appraisers (AGA). Although their standard generally makes a modern ideal cut it has been criticised for being overly strict. A summary of the different benchmarks is given below: 609:) also feature a rose-like cut; there is some suggestion that Western cutters were influenced by Indian stones, because some of these diamonds may predate the Western adoption of the rose cut. However, Indian "rose cuts" were far less symmetrical as their cutters had the primary interest of conserving carat weight, due to the divine status of diamond in India. In either event, the rose cut continued to evolve, with its depth, number and arrangements of facets being tweaked. 446:, which come in a variety of shapes, many of which were derived from the round brilliant. A diamond's cut is evaluated by trained graders, with higher grades given to stones whose symmetry and proportions most closely match the particular "ideal" used as a benchmark. The strictest standards are applied to the round brilliant; although its facet count is invariable, its proportions are not. Different countries base their cut grading on different ideals: one may speak of the 2222:(AGS), have developed Princess cut grading standards with stringency akin to standards applied to round brilliants. Its higher fire and brilliance compared to other mixed cuts is one reason for the Princess cut's popularity, but more importantly is the fact that, of all the diamond cuts, it wastes the least of the original crystal. Another cut is the Flanders cut, a modified square with cut corners, brilliant facets and is currently being cut by cutters at Russian Star. 834:, or minimum angle for TIR, of 24.4°. Two observations can be made: if the pavilion is too shallow, light meets the pavilion facets within the critical angle, and is refracted (i.e., lost) through the pavilion bottom into the air. If the pavilion is too deep, light is initially reflected outside the critical angle on one side of the pavilion, but meets the opposite side within the critical angle and is then refracted out the side of the stone. 168: 2423:
with working a stone to its best finished form with the least amount of waste. This strategy depends on the quality of the stone and its final proportions. If two diamonds of equal weight are inspected there can be a noticeable difference in size when viewed from above; arguably the most important view. A well cut 0.90ct diamond for example could have the same width as a poorly cut 1.00ct diamond. This phenomenon is known as spread.
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defects are a result of the cutting process, some surface flaws are a result of defects in the natural stone. One example is grain lines (produced when irregular crystallization occurs as a diamond is formed) running across the facet. Severe polish defects may cause the diamond to constantly look like it needs to be cleaned. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.
1853: 1021: 1845: 2105: 1915: 1707: 1620: 1160: 43: 1107: 2231: 479:, or "Appreciation of Gems", states that the best form in which to have the diamond is in its perfect natural octahedral crystal form, and not as a cut stone, indicating that diamond cutting was widespread practice. Al Beruni also describes the process of diamond grinding using lead plate in the 11th century AD. Agastimata, written before 10th century AD, states: 892: 1130:(the lower half below the girdle). The girdle may be frosted, polished smooth, or faceted. In recent decades, most girdles are faceted; many have 32, 64, 80, or 96 facets; these facets are excluded from the total facet count. Likewise, some diamonds may have small extra facets on the crown or pavilion that were created to remove surface imperfections during the 371: 1861: 1677:(that is, a cut other than the round brilliant), which the particular crystal shape lends itself to. The prevalence and choice of a particular fancy cut is also influenced by fashion; generally speaking, these cuts are not held to the same strict standards as Tolkowsky-derived round brilliants. Most fancy cuts can be grouped into four categories: 988:—which accentuates a diamond's fire and brilliance rather than its luster—is currently gaining popularity. The princess cut is also popular among diamond cutters because, of all the cuts, it wastes the least of the original crystal. Older diamonds cut before ca. 1900 were cut in "primitive" versions of the modern round brilliant, such as the 2318:
eight apical facets are girded by two or more additional rings of facets. The modern mogul cut evolved from earlier faceting techniques originally used to disguise internal flaws in large stones; in the modern day this cut has also become rare, but still finds occasional use where it is less important to showcase a stone's internal
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Cut also affects the color of a diamond. This is especially important when considering fancy colored diamonds, where the slightest shift in color could vastly affect the price of the diamond. Most fancy colored diamonds are not cut in to round brilliants, because whereas the round brilliant is prized
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During the diamond cutting process, the diamond cutter wants to get the heaviest diamond out of a rough stone. However, this can come at the cost of lowering cut grade. If a diamond is too deep, the carat weight increases with a loss of brilliance due to light leakage. Diamond cutters have to contend
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Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss of weight; rarely is it less than 50%. The round brilliant cut is preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often two stones may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly-shaped crystals such
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the diamond. A diamond's panorama is three-dimensional. Although diamonds are highly symmetrical, light can enter a diamond from many directions and many angles. This factor further highlights the need to reevaluate Tolkowsky's results, and to recalculate the effects of a diamond's proportions on its
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So-called "cheated" girdles have thicker girdles where the main facets touch the girdle than where adjacent upper girdle facets touch the girdle. These stones weigh more (for a given diameter, average girdle thickness, crown angle, pavilion angle, and table ratio), and have worse optical performance
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This is the most populous category of fancy cut, because the standard round brilliant can be effectively modified into a wide range of shapes. Because their facet counts and facet arrangements are the same, modified brilliants also look (in terms of brilliance and fire interplay) the most like round
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Figure 1 assumes that the "thick part of the girdle" is the same thickness at all 16 "thick parts". It does not consider the effects of indexed upper girdle facets. Figure 2 is adapted from the Tolkowsky book, originally published in 1919. Since 1919, the lower girdle facets have become longer. As a
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that would result in high weight loss, whereas fancy cuts are typically much more flexible in this regard. The choice of diamond cut is influenced not only by the stone's characteristics but also by cultural and symbolic meanings associated with specific shapes, such as the romantic symbolism of the
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Polish and symmetry are two important aspects of the cut. The polish describes the smoothness of the diamond's facets, and the symmetry refers to alignment of the facets. With poor polish, the surface of a facet may be scratched or dulled, and may cause a blurred or dulled sparkle. While most polish
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Another important point to consider is that Tolkowsky did not follow the path of a ray that was reflected more than twice in the diamond. However, we now know that a diamond's appearance is composed of many light paths that reflect considerably more than two times within that diamond. Once again, we
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cut, the Princess 144 cut makes for a lively stone with good scintillation; the extra facets are cut under the girdle rather than subdivided. The extra care required for these sub-girdle facets benefits the finished stone by mitigating girdle irregularity and bearding (hairline fracturing). Today,
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There are several older modified brilliant cuts of uncertain age that, while no longer widely used, are notable for history's sake. They are all round in outline and modify the standard round brilliant by adding facets and changing symmetry, either by dividing the standard facets or by placing new
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Modern cutting technology has allowed the development of increasingly complex and hitherto unthinkable shapes, such as stars and butterflies. Their proportions are mostly a matter of personal preference; however, due to their sharp terminations and diamond's relative fragility, these cuts are more
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Another modification of the round ideal cut that maintains the basic proportions of its angles is the passion cut. This cut's design can be considered the opposite of the hearts and arrows, as it eliminates the arrows in order to capture a different light return from the center of the diamond. The
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is applied to the number and arrangement of light reflections from the internal facets; that is, the degree of "sparkle" seen when the stone or observer moves. Scintillation is dependent on the size, number, and symmetry of facets, as well as on quality of polish. Tiny stones appear milky if their
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Around the turn of the century, the development of motorized rotary saws for cutting diamonds, patented in 1901 by John H. G. Stuurman and in 1902 by Ernest G. H. Schenck, gave cutters creative freedom to separate small stones not detachable by cleaving as they wish and allowed them to waste less.
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The AGS standards changed in 2005 to better match Tolkowsky's model and Octonus' ray tracing results. The 2005 AGS standards penalize stones with "cheated" girdles. They grade from 0 to 10, with ranges corresponding to single descriptive words: Ideal (0), Excellent (1), Very Good (2), Good (3-4),
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share aspects of both (modified) brilliant and step cuts: they are meant to combine the weight preservation and dimensions of step cuts with the optical effects of brilliants. Typically the crown is brilliant cut and the pavilion step-cut. Mixed cuts are all relatively new, with the oldest dating
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in passing, but a carré's lack of fire and simpler facets are distinctive. They may or may not have a culet. In Western jewelry dating to before the advent of brilliant-type cuts, shallow step-cut stones were used as lustrous covers for miniature paintings: these are known in the antique trade as
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that was the most famous example of its type. Like the classic rose cut, the mogul cut also lacks a pavilion and a table facet, and its crown is also composed of triangular facets rising to form a point. But in mogul-cut diamonds the rotational symmetry is normally fourfold or eightfold, and the
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with the increased understanding of light dynamics and diamond cutting, many companies have developed new, modified round brilliant cut diamonds. If designed correctly, these extra facets of the modified round brilliant could benefit the overall beauty of a diamond, such as in 91 facet diamonds.
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The world's top diamond cutting and polishing center is India. It processes 11 out of 12 diamonds in jewelry worldwide. The sector employs 1.3 million people and accounts for 14% of India's $ 80 billion of annual exports. Its share in the world polished diamond market is 92% by pieces and 55% by
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are also known as the teardrop shape owing to their resemblance and is considered as a hybrid between the marquise cut and the round brilliant diamond. The stone has one end rounded while the other end is pointed. Pear shape diamonds can opt between varying length and width ratios for the ideal
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The term "hearts and arrows" is used to describe the visual effect achieved in a round brilliant cut diamond with perfect symmetry and angles that exhibit a crisp and complete pattern of hearts and arrows. When viewed under a special magnifying viewer, a complete and precise visual pattern of 8
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to the industry), and different arrangement of facets. The old European cut was the forerunner of modern brilliants and was the most advanced in use during the 19th century and first two decades of the 20th century, prevailing on the market from about 1890 until about 1930. As compared with the
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Around 1860, American jeweler Henry Dutton Morse opened the first American diamond cutting factory in Boston. Assuming that smaller but more beautiful gems will sell better, he went against the dogma of conserving diamond weight at all costs and scientifically studied refraction in diamonds, by
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brilliants), thereby significantly increasing the fire and brilliance of the cut gem, properties that in the Mazarin were already incomparably better than in the rose. Yet Peruzzi-cut diamonds, when seen nowadays, seem exceedingly dull compared to modern-cut brilliants. Because the practice of
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contains two diamonds whose crude octahedral natural states are maintained, but they are in limpid condition, exhibiting diamond polishing and shaping predating Europe, where the first diamond processing dates back to the mid-14th century AD. As of today, few diamonds with ancient Mughal style
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and named after himself and his wife Marion, the basic Barion cut is an octagonal square or rectangle, with a polished and faceted girdle. The total facet count is 62 (excluding the culet): 25 on the crown; 29 on the pavilion; and 8 on the girdle. This cut can be easily identified by the
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The GIA began grading cut on every grading report for round brilliant beginning in 2006 based on their comprehensive study of 20,000 proportions with 70,000 observations of 2,000 diamonds. The single descriptive words are as follows: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and
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Heart cut or the elegance of the Pear shape. Sometimes the cutters compromise and accept lesser proportions and symmetry in order to avoid inclusions or to preserve carat weight, since the per-carat price of diamond is much higher when the stone is over one carat (200
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So-called "painted" girdles have thinner girdles where the main facets touch the girdle than where adjacent upper girdle facets touch the girdle. These stones have less light leakage at the edge of the stone (for a given crown angle, pavilion angle, and table
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Crown height, pavilion depth, and table diameter are percentages of the total girdle diameter. Because the pavilion angle (and consequently pavilion depth) is so closely tied to total internal reflection, it varies the least between the different standards.
874:(the largest central facet of the crown): a happy medium is sought in a table that is not too small (resulting in larger crown facets and greater fire at the expense of brilliance) or too large (resulting in smaller crown facets and little to no fire). 2306:(resembling two rose cuts united back-to-back). Rose-cut diamonds are seldom seen nowadays, except in antique jewelry. Like the older style brilliants and step cuts, there is a growing demand for the purpose of repairing or reproducing antique pieces. 1819:
were introduced by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s. Usually noted to have 56 facets, the weight of such diamonds is estimated by measuring the length and width of the stone. A ratio of 1.33 to 1.66 provides a good traditional range of oval-shaped diamonds.
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The dominating round brilliant diamonds are not as trendy as they used to be since the market was overcrowded in the last decades of the century. Simultaneously, giving a fancy diamond cut as a precious jewel on specific celebrations became a part of
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The distance from the viewer's eye to the diamond is important. The 2005 AGS cut standards are based on a distance of 25 centimeters (about 10 inches). The 2004 HCA cut standards are based on a distance of 40 centimeters (16 in).
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Due to the current vogue for brilliant and brilliant-like cuts, step cut diamonds may suffer somewhat in value; stones that are deep enough may be re-cut into more popular shapes. However, the step cut's rectilinear form was popular in the
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running the length of the pavilion terminus. Like other fancy shaped diamonds, emerald cut diamonds can come in a variety of length to width ratios. The most popular and classic outline of emerald cut diamonds are close a value of 1.5.
702:. Just as a two-dimensional slice of a diamond provides incomplete information about the three-dimensional nature of light behavior inside a diamond, this two-dimensional slice also provides incomplete information about light behavior 2409:
VeriGem device to measure light behavior. DGLA in the US and Mumbai, India, PGGL in the US and EGL-USA are both offering versions of this grading in 2008. DGLA has graded thousands of diamonds with this promising direct assessment
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Internal brilliance—the percentage of incident light reflected back to the viewer from the rear (pavilion) facets—relies on careful consideration of a cut's interfacial angles as they relate to diamond's RI. The goal is to attain
510:, before which time diamonds were employed in their natural octahedral state—anhedral (poorly formed) diamonds simply were not used in jewelry. The first "improvements" on nature's design involved a simple polishing of the 691:(the amount of white light reflected) and fire into consideration, creating a delicate balance between the two. Tolkowsky's calculations would serve as the basis for all future brilliant cut modifications and standards. 2285:
of cuts. The basic rose cut has a flat base—that is, it lacks a pavilion—and has a crown composed of triangular facets (usually 12 or 24) rising to form a point (there is no table facet) in an arrangement with sixfold
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Several groups have developed diamond cut grading standards. They all disagree somewhat on which proportions make the best cut. There are certain proportions that are considered best by two or more groups however.
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much later. This cut had a shallower pavilion, more rounded shape thanks to Morse's foreman Charles M. Field who developed mechanical diamond bruting machine to replace manual rounding (the two also introduced
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as possible (without exceeding the critical angle) in order to achieve the greatest fanning out or spread of spectral colors. The crown height is related to the crown angle, the crown facet size, and the
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stones, many are recut into modern brilliants to increase their marketability. There is also increasing demand for diamonds to be cut in older styles for the purpose of repairing or reproducing antique
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The relationship between the crown angle and the pavilion angle has the greatest effect on the look of the diamond. A slightly steep pavilion angle can be complemented by a shallower crown angle, and
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While the round brilliant cut is considered standard for diamond, with its shape and proportions nearly constant, the choice of fancy cut is influenced heavily by fashion. For example, the
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jewelry of the period features step-cut stones prominently, and there is a market in producing new step-cut stones to repair antique jewelry or to reproduce it. The slender, rectangular
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The HCA changed several times between 2001 and 2004. As of 2004, an HCA score below two represented an excellent cut. The HCA distinguishes between brilliant, Tolkowsky, and fiery cuts.
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Because both the pavilion and crown are comparatively shallow, step cut stones are generally not as bright and never as fiery as brilliant cut stones, but rather accentuate a diamond's
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In the 1970s, Bruce Harding developed another mathematical model for gem design. Since then, several groups have used computer models and specialized scopes to design diamond cuts.
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gemstones) with an octagonal outline. This is done because sharp corners are points of weakness where a diamond may cleave or fracture. Instead of a culet, step-cut stones have a
2201:: It differs in having a total of 70 facets. Both it and the Barion cut exist in a large number of modified forms, with slightly different facet arrangements and combinations. 2588:"Bonhams : Two highly important Sultanate gem-set gold Rings made for Mu'izz al-Din Muhammad bin Sam (AH 569-602/ AD 1173-1206), the first Muslim conqueror of Delhi (2)" 717:
Tolkowsky's guidelines, while revolutionary in their day, are not a definitive solution to the problem of finding the optimum proportions of a round brilliant cut diamond.
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Tolkowsky's model of the "ideal" cut is not perfect. The original model served as a general guideline, and did not explore or account for several aspects of diamond cut:
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cut splits the eight pavilion mains and increases the specifically-placed total facets from 57 to 81. The cut was designed to enhance brilliance and mask inclusions.
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is a variation that adds six kite facets at the margin of the base. The classic rose cut is circular in outline; non-circular variations on the rose cut include the
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crystal faces to create even and unblemished facets, or to fashion the desired octahedral shape out of an otherwise unappealing piece of rough. This was called the
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The diamond cannot be cut by means of metals and gems of other species; but it also resists polishing, the diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds
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must consider several factors, such as the shape and size of the crystal, when choosing a cut. The practical history of diamond cuts can be traced back to the
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had not yet been developed, these early brilliants were all rounded squares or rectangles in cross-section (rather than circular). Given the general name of
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and superlative hardness; a table-cut diamond would appear black to the eye, as they do in paintings of the era. For this reason, colored gemstones such as
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for its ability to reflect white light, the most important characteristic in a fancy colored diamond is its color, not its ability to reflect white light.
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The AGA standards may be the strictest at the upper range of quality. David Atlas developed the AGA standards in the 1990s for all standard diamond shapes.
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can see that Tolkowsky's predictions are helpful in explaining optimal diamond performance, but they are incomplete by today's technological standards.
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has posted several diamond cut studies, by various authors. OctoNus, Moscow State University, Bruce Harding, and others have posted work there.
865:: light exiting the stone (after reflection from the pavilion facets) should meet the crown facets at as great an angle of incidence from the 2572: 526:. By the mid 15th century, the point cut began to be improved upon: the top of the octahedron would be polished or ground off, creating the 2413:"Brilliancescope" by Gemex is another assessment light behavior technology in use by many US and now foreign retailers and diamond cutters. 3014: 1975:
Stones whose outlines are either square or rectangular and whose facets are rectilinear and arranged parallel to the girdle are known as
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The most popular of diamond cuts is the modern round brilliant, whose 57 facets arrangements and proportions have been perfected by both
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back to the 1960s. They have been extremely successful commercially and continue to gain popularity, loosening the foothold of the
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hearts is seen while looking down through the pavilion, and 8 arrows can be seen when viewing the stone in the table up position.
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deposits, and such diamonds have dull, battered external surfaces often covered by a gummy, opaque skin—a comparison to "lumps of
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because it is possible to cut two such stones out of one octahedron with minimal loss of weight. If the crystal is malformed or
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Malecka, Anna (2017). Naming of the Koh-i-Noor and the Origin of Mughal-Cut Diamonds, The Journal of Gemmology, no. 4. 38(8).
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cut (old European). The rose cut is omitted, but it could be considered intermediate between the old single and Mazarin cuts.
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being the top half of the stone, above the girdle), and the size and number of facets that compose it. The crown acts as a
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firms, with the former possessing 86 facets and 12-fold symmetry and the latter with 102 facets and 10-fold symmetry; the
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diamonds, which may be the earliest form of step cut. They are flat stones with large tables and asymmetric outlines.
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In its rough state, a diamond is fairly unremarkable in appearance. Most gem diamonds are recovered from secondary or
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The choice of diamond cut is often decided by the original shape of the rough stone, location of internal flaws or
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Diagram of old diamond cuts showing their evolution from the most primitive (point cut) to the most advanced pre-
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was also realised, and some table-cut stones may possess one. The addition of four corner facets created the
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by empirical observations and differs only slightly from the American Standard. Introduced as part of the
538:(or old eight cut). Neither of these early cuts would reveal what diamond is prized for today: its strong 342: 585:; these were pear-shaped with triangular facets on both sides. About the middle of the 16th century, the 2651: 2535: 2436: 1192: 428: 244: 75: 2511: 1889:
cutter M. Westreich, with 16 additional facets divided equally between the crown and pavilion; and the
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is a detailed explanation of the "Holloway Cut Adviser". A web service that uses this software is
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is the most popular cut given to diamond. It is usually the best choice in terms of saleability,
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Most round brilliant diamonds have roughly the same girdle thickness at all 16 "thick parts".
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looking pear-shaped diamond. Length to width ratios between 1.45 and 1.75 are most common.
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enabled the development of modern diamond cutting and diamond cuts, chief among them the
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of "How pavilion angle and girdle thickness affect the best crown angle and table size".
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have been in use since the mid-16th century. Like the step cuts, they were derived from
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The size of a diamond may also be a factor. Tiny (< 0.02 carats ) diamonds—known as
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pattern (as seen through the table) created by the pavilion facets, as well as by the
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When designing a diamond cut, two primary factors are considered. Foremost is the
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The modern round brilliant (Figure 1 and 2) consists of 58 facets (or 57 if the
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Thomas M. Moses. "Diamond cut and grading system". GIA Laboratory and Research.
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Because every facet has the potential to change a light ray's plane of travel,
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modern round brilliant cut, it is inferior in brilliance but superior in fire.
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Cipriani, Curzio, Borelli, Alessandro, and Lyman, Kennie (US ed.) (1986).
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power—the ability of the material to split white light into its component
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vulnerable to accidental breakage and may therefore be more difficult to
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diamonds look like drops of water, and the shape is suitable for diamond
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every facet must be considered in any complete calculation of light paths
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stones. These stones often have their corners truncated, creating an
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polisher, later increased the number of crown facets from 17 to 33 (
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cuts; these are the most commonly encountered modified brilliants.
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light reflected back to the viewer. Also important is a diamond's
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for "little boat", because it resembles the hull of a sailboat),
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process. Depending on their size and location, they may hurt the
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cuts were introduced in the middle of the 17th century. Known as
2823: 2335: 551: 506:
The history of diamond cuts in Europe can be traced to the late
2836:
Peter Yantzer, American Gem Society Laboratories (2005-03-18).
624:
brilliants as they are seen as a step up from old single cuts.
2098: 2037:
Square step cuts whose corners are not truncated are known as
1908: 1700: 1613: 1153: 909:
weight, and popularity of certain shapes among consumers. The
672: 411:, which together modify the shape and appearance of a diamond 36: 3084: 1110:
Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut.
830:(when reaching the pavilion facets) falls outside diamond's 2536:"A History Of Diamond Cutting | Antique Jewelry University" 1052:
diamond has romantic symbolism, so it is a common gift for
475:
as early as the sixth century AD. A sixth-century treatise
2954:"The Diamond Cut – How to Maximize your Diamond's Sparkle" 2868:
W. Eulitz (1968). "The Optics of Brilliant-Cut Diamonds".
2766: 2309:
Related to the rose cut, and of similar antiquity, is the
1256:
While the facet count is standard, the actual proportions—
1098:(due to its relatively "safe" shape), and desired optics. 842:
scintillation is too great (due to the limitations of the
2555:
Manutchehr-Danai, Mohsen, ed. (2009), "Agastimata book",
913:
must consider each of these variables before proceeding.
518:
and dates from the mid 14th century; by 1375 there was a
493:
A 12th- or early 13th-century diamond ring attributed to
3039:
Simon & Schuster's Guide to Gems and Precious Stones
2979:"New GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Dossier" 1869:
ones in different arrangements. These cuts include: the
2352:
Other proportions also affect the look of the diamond:
1146:
result, the pavilion main facets have become narrower.
2359:
The length of the lower girdle facets affects whether
2812:
Cut fuels the diamond’s fire, sparkle, and brilliance
2197:-shaped facets on the pavilion. A similar cut is the 1032:—are usually given simplified cuts (i.e., with fewer 471:
The process of diamond cutting has been known in the
1184:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. 1070:Princess, Cushion, Heart, Pear, Marquise, Radiant, 975:but downplays its fire—was all the rage during the 747:(RI) of a diamond, which, at 2.417 (as measured by 67:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. 3041:, pp. 58–68. New York: Simon & Schuster. 2003:, a square modified emerald cut, is also popular. 546:. At the time, diamond was valued chiefly for its 2363:can be seen in the stone, under certain viewers. 1343:(developed in 1929 by Johnson and Roesch), the 1138:of the cut and are therefore considered during 778:Brilliance can be divided into the definitions 481: 388:is a style or design guide used when shaping a 2418:Effect of cut on other diamond characteristics 687:analyzed this cut: his calculations took both 653:—these were common by the early 18th century. 558:were far more popular in jewelry of the era. 8: 2612:"Mughal Cut Diamonds – The Search Continues" 849:A diamond's fire is determined by the cut's 2947: 2945: 2133:. Unsourced material may be challenged and 1943:. Unsourced material may be challenged and 1735:. Unsourced material may be challenged and 1320:), introduced in 1939. It was developed in 657:around 1870 developing what was called the 2838:"The Effects of Indexed Upper Half Facets" 2826:. Diamond shapes. Retrieved on 2013-08-20. 2322:, as with the black and internally opaque 800:("diamond-like") luster is second only to 150: 2677:"Gem Portrait: Old European Cut Diamonds" 2210:, first introduced in 1960 by A. Nagy of 2153:Learn how and when to remove this message 1963:Learn how and when to remove this message 1755:Learn how and when to remove this message 1673:as macles are more likely to be cut in a 1660:Learn how and when to remove this message 1244:Learn how and when to remove this message 1000:section). Although there is a market for 127:Learn how and when to remove this message 2405:Various labs around the world are using 1353: 2749:"What did Marcel Tolkowsky really say?" 2726: 2724: 2722: 2503: 928:). These crystals are usually cut into 324: 303: 277: 231: 200: 174: 158: 34:Type of cut used when shaping a diamond 2985:. Gemological Institute of America Inc 1987:(after its most common application to 577:. He cut stones in the shape known as 3013:Blodgett, Troy; et al. (GIA) (2006) " 2204:The most successful mixed cut is the 7: 2858:. Spon & Chamberlain. Folds.net. 2131:adding citations to reliable sources 2061:Other forms of the step cut include 1941:adding citations to reliable sources 1733:adding citations to reliable sources 1642:adding citations to reliable sources 1182:adding citations to reliable sources 930: 65:adding citations to reliable sources 2512:"Expedition Magazine - Penn Museum" 2176:Among the first mixed cuts was the 3096:, USA, Vol. 2, No. 4 (Winter 1936) 3090:New Diamond Cuts Break More Easily 2340:proportions of the round brilliant 2180:, introduced in 1971. Invented by 1122:(the top half above the middle or 790:from the surface of the stone—its 25: 1326:Scandinavian Diamond Nomenclature 3094:Gemological Institute of America 3054:HCA: defining ideal cut diamonds 2890:. United States Patent D593,440. 2339: 2103: 1913: 1771:Modified brilliants include the 1705: 1618: 1602: 1158: 1139: 949: 369: 359: 358: 166: 41: 29:Diamond Cut (Bonnie Tyler album) 27:For the Bonnie Tyler album, see 3074:Diamond grading ABC: The manual 3072:Pagel-Theisen, Verena. (2001). 2557:Dictionary of Gems and Gemology 2356:The table ratio is significant. 1894: 1629:needs additional citations for 1169:needs additional citations for 980: 967:—which accentuates a diamond's 940: 895: 443: 442:analysis. Also popular are the 399:In order to best use a diamond 52:needs additional citations for 2675:Federman, David (2022-08-10). 2482:Material properties of diamond 2324:Spirit of de Grisogono Diamond 1339:Other benchmarks include: the 1068:. The most famous shapes are: 961: 926:material properties of diamond 1: 3052:Holloway, Garry (2000–2004). 3010:. Antique Jewelry University. 2767:"Russian gemmological server" 2565:10.1007/978-3-540-72816-0_262 2014:(and therefore good polish). 601:diamonds of old (such as the 458:), to give but two examples. 3008:A History of Diamond Cutting 2282: 1585:Hearts and arrows phenomenon 1126:of the stone) and 25 on the 997: 2787:"Crown and Pavilion Angles" 2652:"Old European Cut Diamonds" 2249:Cushion brilliant, top view 563:Lodewyk (Louis) van Berquem 304:Imitations and enhancements 3126: 2886:Yariv Har (June 2, 2009). 2246:Round brilliant, side view 2218:labs, such as that of the 2173:standard round brilliant. 924:in their rough state (see 786:. The former is the light 392:for polishing such as the 26: 2888:"Gemstone with 81 facets" 2737:. Spon & Chamberlain. 2731:Marcel Tolkowsky (1919). 2237:Round brilliant, top view 916:Most gem-quality diamond 816:total internal reflection 649:—what are known today as 3015:Painting and Digging Out 2850:Marcel Tolkowsky (1919) 2793:. PriceScope. 2009-04-08 2559:, Springer, p. 10, 2392:Fair (5-7), Poor (8-10). 2267:Lentil-shaped, side view 2264:High cabochon, side view 2258:Pear brilliant, top view 2240:Oval brilliant, top view 1877:cuts, both developed by 1118:is excluded); 33 on the 839:scintillation brilliance 522:of diamond polishers at 338:Schiphol Airport robbery 188:Crystallographic defects 2442:Brilliant (diamond cut) 2189:characteristic central 1336:also differs slightly. 1087:Developed c. 1900, the 707:appearance aspects. ... 343:Graff Diamonds robbery 193:Formation and surfacing 3020:Bruton, Eric. (1979). 2274: 1865: 1857: 1849: 1841: 1553:Scandinavian Standard 1314:Feinschliff der Praxis 1313: 1292:) is the benchmark in 1111: 1025: 1017: 905:, the preservation of 898: 818:(TIR) by choosing the 715: 709: 530:. The importance of a 491: 148: 2952:Naturski, Sebastian. 2437:List of gemstone cuts 2277:Various forms of the 2233: 1863: 1855: 1847: 1839: 1334:Scandinavian Standard 1109: 1102:Facet count and names 1023: 1015: 950:requisite proportions 894: 710: 696: 452:Scandinavian Standard 429:computer-aided design 348:Belgium diamond heist 142: 3088:Ware, J. W. (1936). 3017:", GIA article 2006. 2958:Your Diamond Teacher 2220:American Gem Society 2127:improve this section 2050:. Characteristic of 1937:improve this section 1822:Pear-shaped diamonds 1817:Oval-shaped diamonds 1729:improve this section 1638:improve this article 1316:, also known as the 1178:improve this article 979:period, whereas the 498:faceting are known. 333:Millennium Dome raid 260:The diamond industry 61:improve this article 2939:. gemappraisers.com 2714:U.S. patent 732118A 2701:U.S. patent 694215A 2467:Diamond enhancement 2315:Great Mogul diamond 2288:rotational symmetry 2270:Cabochon, side view 2252:Rose cut, side view 2226:Rose and mogul cuts 1697:Modified brilliants 1679:modified brilliants 1527:Practical Fine Cut 1290:Tolkowsky Brilliant 1284:(also known as the 1058:wedding anniversary 878:Polish and symmetry 784:internal brilliance 780:external brilliance 561:In or around 1476, 473:Indian subcontinent 405:material properties 183:Material properties 154:Part of a series on 2983:diamondcut.gia.edu 2791:www.pricescope.com 2334:The "Cut" of the " 2313:, named after the 2275: 2243:Rose cut, top view 1885:cut, developed by 1866: 1858: 1850: 1842: 1423:American Standard 1306:Practical Fine Cut 1112: 1026: 1018: 899: 828:angle of incidence 664:dimensional gauges 593:was introduced in 255:Synthetic diamonds 240:Diamond (gemstone) 149: 2914:"Faceting Limits" 2899:Paulsen, Jasper. 2870:Gems and Gemology 2574:978-3-540-72816-0 2492:Synthetic diamond 2361:Hearts and arrows 2304:double Dutch rose 2302:(hexagonal), and 2255:Step cut, octagon 2163: 2162: 2155: 1973: 1972: 1965: 1765: 1764: 1757: 1670: 1669: 1662: 1578: 1577: 1501:Parker Brilliant 1449:Eulitz Brilliant 1304:countries is the 1282:American Standard 1254: 1253: 1246: 1228: 971:, whiteness, and 675:and good jewelry 548:adamantine lustre 448:American Standard 382: 381: 137: 136: 129: 111: 16:(Redirected from 3117: 3067:OctoNus Software 3026:Chilton Book Co. 2995: 2994: 2992: 2990: 2975: 2969: 2968: 2966: 2964: 2949: 2940: 2934: 2928: 2927: 2923: 2917: 2912:Harding, Bruce. 2910: 2904: 2897: 2891: 2884: 2878: 2877: 2865: 2859: 2848: 2842: 2841: 2833: 2827: 2821: 2815: 2809: 2803: 2802: 2800: 2798: 2783: 2777: 2776: 2774: 2773: 2763: 2757: 2756: 2751:. Archived from 2745: 2739: 2738: 2728: 2717: 2716: 2710: 2704: 2703: 2697: 2691: 2690: 2688: 2687: 2672: 2666: 2665: 2663: 2662: 2648: 2642: 2641: 2639: 2638: 2628: 2622: 2621: 2619: 2618: 2608: 2602: 2601: 2599: 2598: 2584: 2578: 2577: 2552: 2546: 2545: 2543: 2542: 2532: 2526: 2525: 2523: 2522: 2508: 2472:Diamond simulant 2290:. The so-called 2261:Step cut, oblong 2186:Basil Watermeyer 2158: 2151: 2147: 2144: 2138: 2107: 2099: 1968: 1961: 1957: 1954: 1948: 1917: 1909: 1864:Princess 144 cut 1760: 1753: 1749: 1746: 1740: 1709: 1701: 1665: 1658: 1654: 1651: 1645: 1622: 1614: 1606: 1475:Ideal Brilliant 1354: 1349:Eulitz Brilliant 1347:(1951), and the 1345:Parker Brilliant 1278:Marcel Tolkowsky 1249: 1242: 1238: 1235: 1229: 1227: 1186: 1162: 1154: 931:round brilliants 745:refractive index 685:Marcel Tolkowsky 659:old European cut 489: 373: 362: 361: 170: 151: 132: 125: 121: 118: 112: 110: 69: 45: 37: 21: 3125: 3124: 3120: 3119: 3118: 3116: 3115: 3114: 3110:Diamond cutting 3100: 3099: 3092:, pp.  4. 3004: 3002:Further reading 2999: 2998: 2988: 2986: 2977: 2976: 2972: 2962: 2960: 2951: 2950: 2943: 2937:Diamond grading 2935: 2931: 2925: 2924: 2920: 2911: 2907: 2898: 2894: 2885: 2881: 2867: 2866: 2862: 2849: 2845: 2835: 2834: 2830: 2822: 2818: 2810: 2806: 2796: 2794: 2785: 2784: 2780: 2771: 2769: 2765: 2764: 2760: 2747: 2746: 2742: 2730: 2729: 2720: 2712: 2711: 2707: 2699: 2698: 2694: 2685: 2683: 2674: 2673: 2669: 2660: 2658: 2656:Jewels by Grace 2650: 2649: 2645: 2636: 2634: 2630: 2629: 2625: 2616: 2614: 2610: 2609: 2605: 2596: 2594: 2592:www.bonhams.com 2586: 2585: 2581: 2575: 2554: 2553: 2549: 2540: 2538: 2534: 2533: 2529: 2520: 2518: 2516:www.penn.museum 2510: 2509: 2505: 2500: 2477:Famous diamonds 2462:Diamond cutting 2452:Diamond clarity 2433: 2420: 2332: 2292:double rose cut 2273: 2228: 2184:diamond cutter 2159: 2148: 2142: 2139: 2124: 2108: 2097: 2048:portrait stones 1969: 1958: 1952: 1949: 1934: 1918: 1907: 1761: 1750: 1744: 1741: 1726: 1710: 1699: 1666: 1655: 1649: 1646: 1635: 1623: 1612: 1596: 1587: 1391: 1386: 1381: 1376: 1371: 1366: 1361: 1341:Ideal Brilliant 1332:) in 1969, the 1250: 1239: 1233: 1230: 1187: 1185: 1175: 1163: 1152: 1132:diamond cutting 1104: 1085: 1083:Round brilliant 1054:Valentine's Day 889: 880: 806:(i.e., that of 769:spectral colors 759:—the amount of 730: 681:round brilliant 626:Vincent Peruzzi 504: 495:Muhammad Ghauri 490: 487: 469: 464: 417:Diamond cutters 296:Famous diamonds 278:Cultural impact 250:Diamond cutting 133: 122: 116: 113: 70: 68: 58: 46: 35: 32: 23: 22: 15: 12: 11: 5: 3123: 3121: 3113: 3112: 3102: 3101: 3098: 3097: 3086: 3070: 3064: 3061: 3050: 3035: 3018: 3011: 3003: 3000: 2997: 2996: 2970: 2941: 2929: 2918: 2905: 2892: 2879: 2860: 2852:Diamond Design 2843: 2828: 2824:Diamond shapes 2816: 2804: 2778: 2758: 2755:on 2006-08-27. 2740: 2734:Diamond Design 2718: 2705: 2692: 2667: 2643: 2623: 2603: 2579: 2573: 2547: 2527: 2502: 2501: 2499: 2496: 2495: 2494: 2489: 2484: 2479: 2474: 2469: 2464: 2459: 2454: 2449: 2444: 2439: 2432: 2429: 2419: 2416: 2415: 2414: 2411: 2398: 2397: 2393: 2389: 2386: 2378: 2377: 2376: 2375: 2371: 2367: 2357: 2331: 2328: 2272: 2271: 2268: 2265: 2262: 2259: 2256: 2253: 2250: 2247: 2244: 2241: 2238: 2234: 2227: 2224: 2161: 2160: 2111: 2109: 2102: 2096: 2093: 1971: 1970: 1921: 1919: 1912: 1906: 1903: 1840:High-Light cut 1779:, also called 1763: 1762: 1713: 1711: 1704: 1698: 1695: 1668: 1667: 1626: 1624: 1617: 1611: 1608: 1595: 1592: 1586: 1583: 1576: 1575: 1572: 1569: 1566: 1563: 1560: 1557: 1554: 1550: 1549: 1546: 1543: 1540: 1537: 1534: 1531: 1528: 1524: 1523: 1520: 1517: 1514: 1511: 1508: 1505: 1502: 1498: 1497: 1494: 1491: 1488: 1485: 1482: 1479: 1476: 1472: 1471: 1468: 1465: 1462: 1459: 1456: 1453: 1450: 1446: 1445: 1442: 1439: 1436: 1433: 1430: 1427: 1424: 1420: 1419: 1416: 1413: 1410: 1407: 1404: 1401: 1398: 1394: 1393: 1388: 1383: 1378: 1373: 1368: 1363: 1358: 1286:American Ideal 1270:pavilion angle 1266:pavilion depth 1252: 1251: 1166: 1164: 1157: 1151: 1148: 1103: 1100: 1084: 1081: 1016:Simplified cut 888: 885: 879: 876: 832:critical angle 824:pavilion angle 729: 726: 683:cut. In 1919, 671:These diamond 536:old single cut 503: 500: 485: 468: 465: 463: 460: 380: 379: 378: 377: 367: 353: 352: 351: 350: 345: 340: 335: 327: 326: 322: 321: 320: 319: 314: 306: 305: 301: 300: 299: 298: 293: 288: 280: 279: 275: 274: 273: 272: 267: 262: 257: 252: 247: 242: 234: 233: 229: 228: 227: 226: 221: 216: 211: 203: 202: 198: 197: 196: 195: 190: 185: 177: 176: 172: 171: 163: 162: 156: 155: 135: 134: 49: 47: 40: 33: 24: 14: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 3122: 3111: 3108: 3107: 3105: 3095: 3091: 3087: 3085: 3083: 3082:3-9800434-6-0 3079: 3075: 3071: 3068: 3065: 3062: 3059: 3055: 3051: 3048: 3047:0-671-60430-9 3044: 3040: 3036: 3034: 3033:0-8019-6789-9 3030: 3027: 3023: 3019: 3016: 3012: 3009: 3006: 3005: 3001: 2984: 2980: 2974: 2971: 2959: 2955: 2948: 2946: 2942: 2938: 2933: 2930: 2922: 2919: 2915: 2909: 2906: 2902: 2896: 2893: 2889: 2883: 2880: 2876:(9): 263–271. 2875: 2871: 2864: 2861: 2857: 2853: 2847: 2844: 2839: 2832: 2829: 2825: 2820: 2817: 2813: 2808: 2805: 2792: 2788: 2782: 2779: 2768: 2762: 2759: 2754: 2750: 2744: 2741: 2736: 2735: 2727: 2725: 2723: 2719: 2715: 2709: 2706: 2702: 2696: 2693: 2682: 2678: 2671: 2668: 2657: 2653: 2647: 2644: 2633: 2627: 2624: 2613: 2607: 2604: 2593: 2589: 2583: 2580: 2576: 2570: 2566: 2562: 2558: 2551: 2548: 2537: 2531: 2528: 2517: 2513: 2507: 2504: 2497: 2493: 2490: 2488: 2485: 2483: 2480: 2478: 2475: 2473: 2470: 2468: 2465: 2463: 2460: 2458: 2457:Diamond color 2455: 2453: 2450: 2448: 2445: 2443: 2440: 2438: 2435: 2434: 2430: 2428: 2424: 2417: 2412: 2408: 2404: 2403: 2402: 2394: 2390: 2387: 2384: 2383: 2382: 2372: 2368: 2365: 2364: 2362: 2358: 2355: 2354: 2353: 2350: 2348: 2343: 2341: 2337: 2329: 2327: 2325: 2321: 2316: 2312: 2307: 2305: 2301: 2297: 2293: 2289: 2284: 2280: 2269: 2266: 2263: 2260: 2257: 2254: 2251: 2248: 2245: 2242: 2239: 2236: 2235: 2232: 2225: 2223: 2221: 2217: 2213: 2209: 2208: 2202: 2200: 2196: 2192: 2187: 2183: 2182:South African 2179: 2174: 2172: 2167: 2157: 2154: 2146: 2136: 2132: 2128: 2122: 2121: 2117: 2112:This section 2110: 2106: 2101: 2100: 2094: 2092: 2090: 2086: 2082: 2078: 2074: 2070: 2069: 2068:Trilliant cut 2064: 2059: 2057: 2053: 2049: 2044: 2040: 2035: 2033: 2029: 2025: 2021: 2015: 2013: 2009: 2004: 2002: 1997: 1994: 1990: 1986: 1982: 1978: 1967: 1964: 1956: 1946: 1942: 1938: 1932: 1931: 1927: 1922:This section 1920: 1916: 1911: 1910: 1904: 1902: 1899: 1896: 1892: 1888: 1884: 1880: 1879:New York City 1876: 1872: 1862: 1854: 1846: 1838: 1834: 1832: 1826: 1823: 1818: 1814: 1810: 1806: 1802: 1798: 1794: 1791:, triangular 1790: 1786: 1782: 1778: 1774: 1769: 1759: 1756: 1748: 1738: 1734: 1730: 1724: 1723: 1719: 1714:This section 1712: 1708: 1703: 1702: 1696: 1694: 1692: 1688: 1684: 1680: 1676: 1664: 1661: 1653: 1643: 1639: 1633: 1632: 1627:This section 1625: 1621: 1616: 1615: 1609: 1607: 1605: 1600: 1593: 1591: 1584: 1582: 1573: 1570: 1567: 1564: 1561: 1558: 1555: 1552: 1551: 1547: 1544: 1541: 1538: 1535: 1532: 1529: 1526: 1525: 1521: 1518: 1515: 1512: 1509: 1506: 1503: 1500: 1499: 1495: 1492: 1489: 1486: 1483: 1480: 1477: 1474: 1473: 1469: 1466: 1463: 1460: 1457: 1454: 1451: 1448: 1447: 1443: 1440: 1437: 1434: 1431: 1428: 1425: 1422: 1421: 1417: 1414: 1411: 1408: 1405: 1402: 1399: 1396: 1395: 1389: 1384: 1379: 1374: 1369: 1364: 1359: 1356: 1355: 1352: 1350: 1346: 1342: 1337: 1335: 1331: 1327: 1323: 1319: 1315: 1311: 1307: 1303: 1299: 1295: 1294:North America 1291: 1287: 1283: 1280:in 1919, the 1279: 1275: 1271: 1267: 1263: 1259: 1248: 1245: 1237: 1226: 1223: 1219: 1216: 1212: 1209: 1205: 1202: 1198: 1195: â€“  1194: 1193:"Diamond cut" 1190: 1189:Find sources: 1183: 1179: 1173: 1172: 1167:This article 1165: 1161: 1156: 1155: 1149: 1147: 1143: 1141: 1137: 1133: 1129: 1125: 1121: 1117: 1108: 1101: 1099: 1097: 1093: 1092: 1082: 1080: 1079: 1077: 1073: 1067: 1063: 1059: 1055: 1051: 1047: 1041: 1039: 1035: 1031: 1022: 1014: 1010: 1008: 1003: 999: 995: 991: 987: 986: 982: 978: 974: 970: 966: 963: 958: 956: 951: 947: 943: 942: 937: 933: 932: 927: 923: 919: 914: 912: 908: 904: 897: 893: 887:Choice of cut 886: 884: 877: 875: 873: 868: 864: 860: 856: 852: 847: 845: 840: 835: 833: 829: 825: 821: 817: 811: 809: 805: 804: 799: 795: 794: 789: 785: 781: 776: 774: 770: 766: 762: 758: 754: 750: 746: 741: 739: 735: 727: 725: 721: 718: 714: 708: 705: 701: 695: 692: 690: 686: 682: 678: 674: 668: 665: 660: 654: 652: 651:old mine cuts 648: 644: 639: 635: 631: 627: 623: 619: 615: 610: 608: 604: 600: 596: 592: 588: 584: 580: 576: 572: 568: 564: 559: 557: 553: 549: 545: 541: 537: 533: 529: 525: 521: 517: 513: 509: 501: 499: 496: 484: 480: 478: 474: 467:Ancient India 466: 461: 459: 457: 453: 449: 445: 441: 437: 432: 430: 426: 422: 418: 414: 410: 406: 402: 397: 395: 394:brilliant cut 391: 387: 376: 372: 368: 366: 357: 356: 355: 354: 349: 346: 344: 341: 339: 336: 334: 331: 330: 329: 328: 323: 318: 315: 313: 310: 309: 308: 307: 302: 297: 294: 292: 289: 287: 284: 283: 282: 281: 276: 271: 268: 266: 265:Blood diamond 263: 261: 258: 256: 253: 251: 248: 246: 245:List of mines 243: 241: 238: 237: 236: 235: 230: 225: 222: 220: 217: 215: 212: 210: 207: 206: 205: 204: 199: 194: 191: 189: 186: 184: 181: 180: 179: 178: 173: 169: 165: 164: 161: 157: 153: 152: 146: 141: 131: 128: 120: 109: 106: 102: 99: 95: 92: 88: 85: 81: 78: â€“  77: 76:"Diamond cut" 73: 72:Find sources: 66: 62: 56: 55: 50:This article 48: 44: 39: 38: 30: 19: 3089: 3073: 3038: 3021: 2987:. 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Index

Emerald cut
Diamond Cut (Bonnie Tyler album)

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Tolkowsky
Diamonds

Material properties
Crystallographic defects
Formation and surfacing
Carat
Clarity
Color
Cut
Diamond (gemstone)
List of mines
Diamond cutting
Synthetic diamonds
The diamond industry
Blood diamond

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