198:, which is uninsulated but windproof and helps to retain body heat. He shivered uncontrollably from the extreme cold (estimated to be -35 °F) and kept slowly sliding down the slope. He was forced to get out of his sack to remedy the problem and discovered that he was at risk of sliding over an edge that rolled off to drop 10,000 ft or 3,000 m below. "No one had ever survived a solo bivouac above twenty-seven thousand feet".
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267:, which can be concealed by thin layers of snow. A crevasse opened up beneath Kerrebrock who fell in headfirst, pulling Wickwire and the sled in on top of him, since they were roped together. Wickwire was able to slowly climb out with an ice axe but was unable to rescue Kerrebrock, who was alive but wedged in tightly, still wearing his
170:. Concerned about being able to move safely in the dark, he decided to spend the night where he was, which was below the summit but above 27,000 ft or 8,200 m. Wickwire had done bivouacs before and knew he just needed to gut it out until daylight, which was risky because of the thin air and severe cold. Risks included
317:
In the midst of lifting my pack I heard a sudden pinging sound and turned my head to see Marty pitching backward, head-down the icy slope. I yelled, "Grab the rope!" Though she rolled onto her side and reached out, she missed the fixed rope, sliding past it just as it curved away toward the edge of
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Upon getting down from the mountain, which took several days and was fraught with more crevasse dangers, Wickwire was burdened by his guilt for months for being unable to save
Kerrebrock. He thought about quitting the upcoming expedition to Mount Everest stating, "the furthest thought in my mind was
238:
army helicoptered
Wickwire right from the glacier at the bottom of the mountain, and Wickwire immediately underwent lung surgery. The surgeon expressed uncertainty about Wickwire's ever climbing at high altitudes again. Nevertheless, Wickwire continued high-altitude climbing a couple of years later,
203:
Fortunately, I had been through enough miserable bivouacs to know that the night would end. I also think that having reached the summit was a critical element in my survival, it gave me an adrenaline rush and great sense of satisfaction that saw me through the night. The hardest thing was trying to
165:
on
September 6, 1978. The pair took photos on the summit, and then Reichardt started his descent immediately because he had made the climb without supplemental oxygen. Wickwire lingered a little longer, with the intention of catching up. Upon his descent it was beginning to get dark however, and
283:
to a snow picket, and attempted moving
Kerrebrock's tightly wedged backpack from within the crevasse, but all efforts were futile. Resigned to Kerrebrock's fate, the two men said their goodbyes. Kerrebrock subsequently died late in the night. (Kerrebrock had instructed Wickwire to leave it up to
292:
Everest at that point". His wife convinced him to think about it for a length of time before deciding one way or the other, so there would be no regrets down the road. Wickwire heeded his wife's advice, and in 1982, he was climbing
Everest's slopes with the planned group for the expedition.
330:. He couldn't compute at first what had happened, but later realized that her harness strap had not held, because Hoey hadn't threaded "the end of her belt back through the buckle (the only way to assure it would not come loose)". Retracing the route down, Wickwire found one of her
133:
in the 1960s and 1970s, which had remained unclimbed until 1961. His ascent in 1963, was the first up the wall's East Rib. In 1970, he completed the first winter ascent of the Willis Wall. Wickwire's other ascents of the Willis Wall occurred in 1971 and 1974.
145:
has been termed the "Savage
Mountain" in writings about its high altitude climbing. Its dangers include notorious weather conditions, stretches of technical climbing on rock and ice, marked cliff exposures, and enormous, high-altitude
377:
After his adventures came to a halt, Wickwire was still able to return to have a relationship with his wife, children, and now his grandchildren. His wife had supported him during the years that he was a risk taker in the mountains.
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the Great
Coulier. I watched in shock and disbelief as she slid at an ever increasing speed, disappearing into a tunnel of mist, over a huge ice cliff, and onto the glacier six thousand feet below. Not once did she cry out.
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Wickwire did not have a tent, sleeping bag, or water. His oxygen ran out halfway through the night, and his gas stove became inoperable. His only protection, other than his immediate winter clothing, was a thin nylon
157:
When
Wickwire finally climbed K2 for the first time, seven climbers had already died there. His first attempt on K2 was in a 1975 expedition that broke down in disputes and never got above 22,000 feet (6,700 m).
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at 26,000 ft (7,900 m). When the two climbers above needed more rope Hoey got up to allow
Wickwire to move into position to ascend. As she did so, something went wrong. As Wickwire explains:
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and upside down. (Kerrebrock couldn't feel his hand when
Wickwire touched it.) Wickwire had broken his shoulder, but slowly scaled the ice walls of the crevasse, six inches at a time, with his
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279:. Once upon the rim surface he attempted to dislodge Kerrebrock, who was still very much conscious, by pulling forcefully on the rope. Wickwire then descended on rope
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found him continuing down while on their way to the summit. Wickwire lost parts of two toes and underwent lung surgery due to blood clots on his lungs (
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At the time of Kerrebrock's death, Wickwire had been working for 20 years to become "one of the world's most accomplished mountain climbers".
85:, the second highest mountain in the world (summit at 8,611 m (28,251 ft)). Wickwire is also known for surviving an overnight solo
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on K2 at an elevation above 27,000 ft or 8,200 m; considered "one of the most notorious bivouacs in mountaineering history".
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934:"South America, Tierra Del Fuego, Monte Sarmiento, West Peak - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents"
58:
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366:. Wickwire and Porter were injured on the climb and did not reach the summit with Roskelley, Macartney-Snape, and Venables.
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get moving in the morning. By then I was pretty far gone. What motivated me were thoughts of my wife and children.
304:, in: 1982, 1984, 1993, and 2003. During the 1982 expedition, Wickwire formed a relationship with female climber
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308:. While ascending Everest, one day Wickwire and Hoey were taking a brief rest on a slope within a steep and icy
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guide Chris Kerrebrock in the lead. They were roped together and dragging a sled. Glaciers often have deep
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154:" for those who climb it; of every four people who have reached the summit, one has died trying.
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910:"Peaks To Politics At Top Of His Profession, Roskelley Shifts Gears | The Spokesman-Review"
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his father to decide whether to leave his body in the crevasse or not. Wickwire led
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101:, by James and Dorothy Wickwire. He played football for Ephrata High School and
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summit; there are significant differences between the film and reality.
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988:
Jim Wickwire in a 2022 talk about climbing Mount Rainier's Willis Wall
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Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death
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Addicted to Danger: A Memoir About Affirming Life in the Face of Death
762:
Addicted to Danger: A Memoir About Affirming Life in the Face of Death
401:
Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death
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643:"Jim Wickwire Shares Stories of Climbing Mount Rainier's Willis Wall"
240:
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468:"Climber Jim Wickwire Says 'K2' is Pretty Accurate - for Fiction"
531:"Triumph and Tragedy: The Mountain Zone Interviews Jim Wickwire"
300:
Wickwire made four (unsuccessful) attempts on the north side of
996:
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to the site, and they extracted Kerrebrock from the location.)
825:
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418:(1991) is based very loosely on Wickwire and Reichardt's 1978
2422:
Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
440:"Gonzaga University School of Law » Summer 2005 Lawyer"
992:
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419:
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Wickwire looked back at the fixed rope and saw Hoey's open
142:
82:
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on Mount McKinley (now known as Denali), with 25-year-old
554:
Addicted to Danger: Affirming Life in the Face of Death
150:. It has the second-highest fatality rate among the "
2364:
Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
2416:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
2369:
Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
2428:
Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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2015:
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875:Jim Wickwire; Dorothy Bullitt (1 February 1999).
759:Jim Wickwire; Dorothy Bullitt (1 February 1999).
497:"11 Feared Dead in Mountaineering Disaster on K2"
113:. Wickwire chose to leave football and enroll in
334:, but her body was lost below in the mountain's
315:
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870:
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243:in preparation for his climbing expedition on
1008:
381:Wickwire is now a retired attorney living in
8:
125:Wickwire made several pioneering ascents of
957:Wickwire, Jim; Bullitt, Dorothy C. (1998).
525:
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2410:International Federation of Sport Climbing
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2012:
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583:Van Sickel, Charlie (September 13, 1978).
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209:-Jim Wickwire on surviving a bivouac on K2
18:
399:Wickwire has published an autobiography,
97:Wickwire was raised in the small town of
2530:Gonzaga University School of Law alumni
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835:
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346:In 1995, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley,
161:Wickwire reached the summit of K2 with
881:. Simon and Schuster. pp. 167–.
799:. Simon and Schuster. pp. 125–.
765:. Simon and Schuster. pp. 120–.
663:The Big Fact Book About Mount Rainier
7:
2470:
2482:
938:publications.americanalpineclub.org
712:"K2 list of ascents and fatalities"
255:In 1981, Wickwire was traversing a
129:'s 3,600 feet (1,097 m) foot
14:
2379:South African Climbing Federation
121:Mount Rainier and the Willis Wall
77:(born June 8, 1940) is the first
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1351:IFSC World Championships winners
604:
495:Stephen Graham (4 August 2008).
239:climbing the slopes of Alaska's
59:Gonzaga University School of Law
2525:People from Ephrata, Washington
688:Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide
641:Thompson, Luke (July 1, 2022),
558:. Simon and Schuster. pp.
2520:Mountain climbers from Seattle
2349:British Mountaineering Council
844:"The Great Couloir on Everest"
665:. Dunamis House. p. 220.
1:
829:Wickwire; Bullitt; — p. 1-7.
793:Jim Wickwire (11 May 2010).
749:Wickwire; Bullitt; — p. 120.
796:Addicted to Danger: A Novel
601:– via Newspapers.com.
362:, on the western shores of
296:North face Everest attempts
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963:. New York: Pocket Books.
648:The Yakima Herald-Republic
502:Seattle Post-Intelligencer
403:(with Dorothy C. Bullitt).
2441:
2339:Appalachian Mountain Club
628:, 18 Feb 1999, Eric Adler
358:attempted a new route on
2254:Mountain Safety Research
2249:Mountain Equipment Co-op
842:Wickwire, James (1983).
585:"No Surprise in Ephrata"
166:Wickwire did not have a
2384:South Tyrol Alpine Club
2179:Eastern Mountain Sports
2045:Canadian Alpine Journal
2038:American Alpine Journal
1301:Roof and tunnel hacking
851:American Alpine Journal
735:American Alpine Journal
686:Gauthier, Mike (2017).
590:Spokane Daily Chronicle
2204:Holubar Mountaineering
2016:Magazines and journals
1346:IFSC World Cup winners
690:. Mountaineers Books.
661:Filley, Bette (1996).
550:Wickwire, Jim (2010).
342:Other notable attempts
324:climbing waist harness
320:
206:
138:K2: summit and bivouac
103:Columbia Basin College
2329:Alpine Club of Canada
2239:Marmot Mountain Works
2194:GERRY Mountain Sports
326:still attached via a
2359:Club Alpino Italiano
2344:Austrian Alpine Club
2334:American Alpine Club
626:The Kansas City Star
251:Crevasse on McKinley
2354:Club Alpin Français
1728:Mountaineering boot
1341:Piolet d'Or winners
348:Tim Macartney-Snape
99:Ephrata, Washington
2374:German Alpine Club
226:); he also caught
214:The next morning,
115:Gonzaga University
55:Gonzaga University
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2389:Swiss Alpine Club
2142:
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2097:Non-fiction films
2073:Planinski Vestnik
2066:Himalayan Journal
2004:
2003:
1766:
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1395:Historical events
1366:Eight-thousanders
1319:
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1173:
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914:www.spokesman.com
888:978-0-671-01991-4
806:978-1-4391-1783-5
772:978-0-671-01991-4
152:eight thousanders
107:Pasco, Washington
72:
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2013:
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1400:Grade milestones
1209:Expedition style
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442:. Archived from
436:
364:Tierra del Fuego
352:Stephen Venables
224:pulmonary emboli
210:
111:Junior Rose Bowl
46:
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40:
19:
16:American climber
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2535:Summiters of K2
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360:Monte Sarmiento
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190:, and falling.
188:pulmonary edema
163:Louis Reichardt
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51:Alma mater
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2024:Alpine Journal
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2394:USA Climbing
2294:Wild Country
2289:Therm-a-Rest
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1984:Campus board
1939:First ascent
1683:Ice and snow
1480:Belay device
1331:Alpine clubs
1291:Ropes course
1204:Alpine style
959:
952:
941:. Retrieved
937:
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593:. p. 29
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510:. Retrieved
500:
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476:. 1 May 1992
471:
448:. Retrieved
444:the original
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286:park rangers
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75:Jim Wickwire
74:
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43:June 8, 1940
23:Jim Wickwire
2510:1940 births
2488:WikiProject
2324:Alpine Club
2319:Access Fund
2229:Lowe Alpine
2224:La Sportiva
1961:Fall factor
1854:Self-arrest
1830:Redpointing
1753:Snow anchor
1507:Boulder mat
1456:Daisy chain
1426:Terminology
1417:Terminology
1296:Rooftopping
1238:Hillwalking
1226:Dry-tooling
1192:Via ferrata
1105:Traditional
1083:Competition
1064:Multi-pitch
1047:Disciplines
336:bergschrund
176:hypothermia
131:Willis Wall
2504:Categories
2112:El Capitan
1876:Traversing
1825:Onsighting
1805:Glissading
1788:DĂĽlfersitz
1783:Australian
1746:Transeiver
1691:Alpenstock
1624:Portaledge
1612:Copperhead
1551:Descenders
1485:Auto belay
1276:Commercial
1256:Buildering
1233:Scrambling
1143:Rock types
1134:Top roping
1071:Bouldering
943:2019-06-04
919:2019-06-04
856:2008-10-25
721:2010-01-23
536:2012-06-12
512:18 January
480:18 January
450:2014-08-29
426:References
306:Marty Hoey
196:bivvy sack
93:Early life
81:to summit
65:Occupation
39:1940-06-08
2264:Patagonia
2147:Companies
2133:Hard Grit
2126:Free Solo
1994:MoonBoard
1989:Hangboard
1975:Training
1924:Guidebook
1899:Ape index
1864:Rope team
1778:Abseiling
1723:Ice screw
1629:Quickdraw
1512:Carabiner
1434:Equipment
1412:Technique
1378:Equipment
1261:Canyoning
1199:Himalayan
1127:Rope solo
1117:Free solo
597:March 14,
412:The film
265:crevasses
236:Pakistani
228:pneumonia
180:frostbite
2464:Category
2311:National
2209:JanSport
2184:Five Ten
2059:Desnivel
2052:Climbing
2031:Alpinist
1956:Exposure
1934:Chipping
1881:Tyrolean
1871:Spotting
1842:Crevasse
1820:Flashing
1810:Jumaring
1795:Belaying
1758:Snowshoe
1716:Ice tool
1706:Crampons
1556:Figure-8
1468:Ascender
1336:Climbers
1076:Highball
1059:Big wall
1024:Climbing
812:13 March
389:In media
332:crampons
281:anchored
277:crampons
269:backpack
232:pleurisy
168:headlamp
79:American
68:Attorney
2476:Commons
2430:(UIMLA)
2424:(UIAGM)
1815:Leading
1732:Rescue
1711:Ice axe
1661:Camalot
1595:Lanyard
1578:Skyhook
1563:Harness
1534:Dynamic
1517:Maillon
1490:Glasses
1371:Everest
1362:Deaths
1281:Parkour
894:11 June
778:10 June
383:Seattle
354:, and
310:couloir
273:ice axe
257:glacier
172:hypoxia
87:bivouac
2452:Portal
2418:(UIAA)
2412:(IFSC)
2244:Millet
2234:Mammut
2199:Grivel
2169:Deuter
2087:Summit
1971:Guides
1966:Grades
1837:Rescue
1771:Action
1673:Tricam
1639:Grigri
1585:Hammer
1539:Static
1495:Gloves
1463:Anchor
1383:Brands
1187:Alpine
967:
885:
803:
769:
694:
669:
566:
241:Denali
234:. The
2269:Petzl
2219:Kelty
2009:Media
1944:Pitch
1909:Clean
1892:Other
1741:RECCO
1668:Shoes
1656:SLCDs
1651:Sling
1619:Piton
1568:Hooks
1546:Chalk
1473:Croll
1451:Aider
1388:Knots
1324:Lists
1306:Slide
1271:Grass
1266:Crane
1249:Other
1221:Mixed
1150:Crack
1100:Sport
1088:Speed
1031:Types
847:(PDF)
715:(PDF)
394:Books
328:jumar
148:serac
2159:CAMP
1949:Topo
1919:Beta
1847:Self
1644:Revo
1634:SLDs
1573:Fifi
1529:Cord
1502:Bolt
1443:Rock
1311:Tree
1286:Pole
1165:Slab
1160:Roof
1155:Face
1112:Solo
1095:Free
965:ISBN
896:2012
883:ISBN
814:2013
801:ISBN
780:2012
767:ISBN
692:ISBN
667:ISBN
599:2020
564:ISBN
514:2011
482:2011
408:Film
275:and
230:and
218:and
29:Born
2279:REI
2274:Rab
1607:Nut
1600:PAC
1590:Hex
1216:Ice
1054:Aid
105:in
2506::
936:.
912:.
865:^
849:.
834:^
822:^
742:^
645:,
633:^
614:^
587:.
562:.
560:29
522:^
505:.
499:.
470:.
459:^
420:K2
415:K2
350:,
247:.
186:,
182:,
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143:K2
83:K2
41:)
1016:e
1009:t
1002:v
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37:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.