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301:. To do this the tickler bar was detached from the frame and attached to 'dogs', that is, jointed arms. This allowed forward motion to scoop, and sideways motion to shog. New inventions were patented: Frost's tickler net of 1769, the two plain net of 1777 and the square net of 1781, and their patents were fiercely defended. Harvey changed the shape of the tickler wires to avoid one in his pin machine. This became popular in Lyon and Paris where 2000 frames were in use in 1800.
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stitches. Here the weft was held in the beard and carried up to the next course where two threads were passed together. Messrs Morris and Betts took a patent (807) in 1764 on a stitch transfer device where threads from one needle were passed to another. With tuck stitches, this created 'eyelet holes'. Partial stitch transfer produced a marker stitch.
179:. The frame was adapted but became too expensive for individuals to buy; thus, wealthy men bought the machines and hired them out to the knitters, providing the materials and buying the finished product. With increasing competition, they ignored the standards set by the Chartered Company. Frames were introduced to
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The commercial failure of Lee's design might have led to a dead-end for the knitting machine, but John Ashton, one of Lee's assistants, made a crucial improvement by adding the mechanism known as a "divider". This is used after the jack sinkers have pulled down a large loop over all the needles, and
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In 1764, a profound change was made to the stocking frame that enabled it to produce weft-knitted nets. Hammond, the attributed inventor, used ticklers to stitch-transfer from one needle to the third one along crossing over two intermediate needles creating a cross stitch. He also used a tickler to
183:
by
Nicholas Alsop in around 1680, who encountered resistance and at first worked secretly in a cellar in Northgate Street, taking his own sons and the children of near relatives as apprentices. In 1728, the Nottingham magistrates refused to accept the authority of the London Company, and the centre
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Lee's machine consisted of a stout wooden frame. It did straight knitting, not tubular knitting. It had a separate needle for each loop - these were low carbon steel bearded needles where the tips were reflexed and could be depressed onto a hollow, closing the loop. The needles were supported on a
292:
Lacey knits can be achieved by slipping a stitch, picking up a stitch or knitting two together. On a frame, a tickler wire could realise individual loops and create a run that would be picked up by hand. The frame was modified by adding a tickler bar and a tuck presser, to allow held and tuck
256:
For mechanical power to be applied to a stocking frame, it had to be adapted for rotary motion. In 1769, Samuel Wise, a clockmaker, took out a patent for changing the hand frame into a rotary. In
Nottingham's case, steam coal was easily available from the Nottinghamshire coalfield.
84:
needle bar that passed back and forth, to and from the operator. The beards were simultaneously depressed by a presser bar. The first machine had eight needles per inch and was suitable for worsted. The next version had 16 needles per inch and was suitable for silk.
131:, but she refused, fearing the effects on hand-knitting industries. The original frame had eight needles to the inch, which produced only coarse fabric. Lee later improved the mechanism with 20 needles to the inch. By 1598 he was able to knit stockings from
316:
A legend later developed that Lee had invented the first machine in order to get revenge on a lover who had preferred to concentrate on her knitting rather than attend to him. A painting illustrating this story was once displayed in the
454:, 'Notes on ancient hosiery', Leicester Architectural and Archaeological Society, Hinckley, July 1864; R.A. McKinley (Ed.), (Occupations: The hosiery industry), 'The City of Leicester: Social and administrative history, 1660-1835',
195:
introduced an attachment for the frame which produced what became known as the "Derby rib". The
Nottingham frameworkers found themselves increasingly short of raw materials. Initially they used thread spun in
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arrived with his new experimental spinning machinery. He initially built a works operated by horsepower but it was evident that six to eight would be needed at a time, changed every half-hour. He moved to
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and varied in texture. They tried spinning cotton themselves but, being used to the long fibres of wool, experienced great difficulty. Meanwhile, the
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spinners, who had been used to a much shorter wool, were able to handle cotton and their frameworkers were competing with the
Nottingham producers.
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the sinker bar has separated out the loop, the dividers are rested on the loop to give the bearded needles guidance as they are pulled forward.
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By 1812, there were estimated to be over 25,000 frames in use, most of them in the three counties, and the frame had come back to
Calverton.
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143:, with his workers and his machines, but was unable to sustain his business. He died in Paris around 1614. Most of his workers returned to
276:. It consisted of an extra set of bearded needles that operated vertically, taking the loop and reversing them. This allowed a plain and
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was the first major stage in the mechanisation of the textile industry, and played an important part in the early history of the
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and a tighter more flexible fabric. To do a 3:1 rib, there would be one vertical needle after every third horizontal needle.
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The machine imitated the movements of hand knitters. Lee demonstrated the operation of the device to
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was issued a royal charter. By about 1785, however, demand was rising for cheaper stockings made of
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The jack sinkers come down in front of the knitting and pull it up so the process can begin again.
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The presser bar drops, the needle loops close and the old row of stitches is drawn off the needle.
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63:. It was adapted to knit cotton and to do ribbing, and by 1800 had been adapted as a
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The jack sinkers come forward pulling the thread into the beard of the open needles.
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The weft thread is laid on the needles; the jack sinkers descend and form loops.
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continued largely with silk; Leicester, a farming area, continued with
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William Lee - The
Triumphs and Trials of an Elizabethan Inventor
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A History of the County of
Leicester, IV: The City of Leicester
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of the trade moved northwards to
Nottingham, which also had a
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The needle bar goes forward; the open needles clear the web.
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Leicestershire
Industrial History Society explanatory video
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produced a variation on the story in his popular painting
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The breakthrough with cotton stockings came in 1758 when
649:
Historic
Highlights in Development of Hosiery-Knitting
135:, as well as wool, but was again refused a patent by
600:
Heinneman, republished 1991 Cromford: Scarthin Books
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Transformation of a Valley: The Derbyshire Derwent,
482:. Nottinghamshire History:Resources for Genealogist
428:"Rev. William Lee, inventor of the Stocking Frame"
97:The weft thread is pushed down by the divider bar.
644:Wigston Framework Knitters Museum, Leicestershire
200:, but this was expensive and required doubling.
167:silk-spinners who had settled in the village of
476:Mellors, Robert (1908). Nicholson, A P (ed.).
171:just outside the city of London. In 1663, the
139:. Lee moved to France, under the patronage of
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349:Destruction of Stocking Frames, etc. Act 1812
321:hall in London. In 1846 the Victorian artist
163:A thriving business built up with the exiled
8:
639:. Vol. 13 (11th ed.). p. 788.
464:The History of Leicester in the 18th Century
344:Protection of Stocking Frames, etc. Act 1788
405:. Leicestershire Industrial History Society
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466:(Leicester & London 1871), pp. 254-57.
233:. Strutt, as his partner, set up mills at
55:in 1589. Its use, known traditionally as
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364:Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters
173:Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters
79:Six stages in the knitting machine cycle
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715:List of yarns for crochet and knitting
366:where it appears in their coat of arms
304:In 1803 cotton was used with silk, as
216:Influence on the Industrial Revolution
147:with their frames, which were sold in
617:Ruddington Framework Knitters' Museum
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229:and set up what became known as the
327:The Invention of the Stocking Loom
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308:were producing 300 count cotton.
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580:Lace Machines and Machine Laces
245:, with its mills originated by
1313:The Knitting Guild Association
1:
1308:World Wide Knit in Public Day
1293:Revolutionary Knitting Circle
401:Freer, Wendy (23 June 2010).
43:industry. It was invented by
2145:Knitting tools and materials
1303:UK Hand Knitting Association
479:In and about Nottinghamshire
280:knit to be used, and led to
871:Stockinette/Stocking stitch
651:by Mildred Barnwell Andrews
27:Framework Knitters' Museum
16:Mechanical knitting machine
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87:The mechanical movements:
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1619:
1359:List of knitting stitches
1149:Complete garment knitting
1154:Fully fashioned knitting
272:was invented in 1757 by
636:Encyclopædia Britannica
319:Stocking Framer's Guild
1354:Knitting abbreviations
1227:Stephanie Pearl-McPhee
1174:William Lee (inventor)
627:Brown, Thomas (1911).
613:featuring Martin Green
578:Earnshaw, Pat (1986).
120:
80:
28:
2165:Lace-making machinery
2150:Industrial Revolution
2107:at Wikimedia Commons
1329:Basic knitted fabrics
506:Spartacus Educational
458:(1958), pp. 153-200;
127:, hoping to obtain a
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61:Industrial Revolution
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2051:Other handmade laces
1252:Elizabeth Zimmermann
1077:Three needle bindoff
1062:Slip-stitch knitting
982:Drop-stitch knitting
432:www.victorianweb.org
403:"Framework Knitting"
57:framework knitting,
2126:Clothing portal
1523:Puncetto Valsesiano
1042:Picking up stitches
947:Binding/Casting off
809:Patons and Baldwins
794:Eisaku Noro Company
705:Knitting needle cap
693:Tools and materials
596:Cooper, B., (1983)
65:lace making machine
2160:English inventions
2116:Fashion portal
1845:Point d'Angleterre
1037:Medallion knitting
452:John Gough Nichols
391:, pp. 12, 13.
204:yarn was spun for
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502:"Jedediah Strutt"
299:Valenciennes lace
270:Derby Rib machine
264:Derby Rib machine
222:Richard Arkwright
220:It was then that
188:making industry.
125:Queen Elizabeth I
35:was a mechanical
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1571:Needlerun net
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1268:I Knit London
1266:
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1261:Organizations
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1202:Kaffe Fassett
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1198:
1197:Nicky Epstein
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1017:Hand knitting
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942:Bias knitting
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937:Bead knitting
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901:Loop knitting
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799:Kraemer Yarns
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725:Stitch holder
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564:, p. 24.
563:
562:Earnshaw 1986
558:
555:
552:, p. 21.
551:
550:Earnshaw 1986
546:
543:
540:, p. 19.
539:
538:Earnshaw 1986
534:
531:
528:, p. 18.
527:
526:Earnshaw 1986
522:
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397:
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390:
389:Earnshaw 1986
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324:
323:Alfred Elmore
320:
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26:
21:
2036:
1983:Orvieto lace
1782:Bedfordshire
1729:Valenciennes
1641:Mesh grounds
1604:Lefkara lace
1503:Kenmare Lace
1488:Hollie Point
1369:Yarn bombing
1222:Shannon Okey
1183:Knitters and
1168:
927:Arm knitting
710:Needle gauge
634:
597:
582:. Batsford.
579:
572:Bibliography
557:
545:
533:
521:
509:. Retrieved
505:
496:
484:. Retrieved
478:
471:
463:
455:
447:
435:. Retrieved
431:
407:. Retrieved
396:
384:
326:
315:
306:Houldsworths
303:
295:
291:
267:
259:
255:
219:
190:
169:Spitalfields
162:
153:
122:
86:
82:
56:
39:used in the
32:
30:
2058:Metal laces
1930:Renaissance
1679:Bucks point
1632:Bobbin lace
1453:Aemilia Ars
1420:Needle lace
1242:Meg Swansen
932:Basketweave
835:Continental
789:Coats Group
782:Yarn brands
720:Row counter
460:J. Thompson
354:Water frame
288:Lace making
231:water frame
159:Development
71:Description
45:William Lee
2139:Categories
1995:-made lace
1945:Branscombe
1935:Battenberg
1920:Mezzopunto
1888:Schneeberg
1817:Part laces
1556:Filet lace
1543:Embroidery
1478:Halas lace
1463:Argentella
1428:Filet lace
1192:Sam Barsky
972:Casting on
962:Buttonhole
920:Techniques
886:Dip stitch
773:Variegated
589:0713446846
511:6 December
486:8 December
437:6 December
409:6 December
371:References
312:Postscript
247:John Lombe
210:Gloucester
202:Lancashire
53:Nottingham
25:Ruddington
2042:Warp Knit
1912:Tape lace
1684:Chantilly
1609:Saba lace
1561:Reticella
1185:designers
1128:Fair Isle
1082:Thrumming
1057:Short row
992:Faggoting
911:Yarn over
850:Norwegian
181:Leicester
49:Calverton
2027:Chemical
2002:Bobbinet
1925:Princess
1873:Hinojosa
1868:Milanese
1840:Rosaline
1835:Brussels
1807:Yak lace
1754:Mundillo
1719:Flanders
1654:Freehand
1566:Limerick
1528:Tenerife
1493:Nallıhan
1468:Armenian
1458:Argentan
1334:Blocking
1133:Intarsia
1111:Patterns
1012:Grafting
987:Entrelac
896:Increase
881:Decrease
864:Stitches
830:Combined
825:Circular
686:Knitting
359:Bobbinet
333:See also
227:Cromford
165:Huguenot
141:Henri IV
41:textiles
2073:Tatting
2068:Macramé
2032:Raschel
2007:Leavers
1993:Machine
1973:Hairpin
1893:Peasant
1878:Russian
1825:Honiton
1802:Maltese
1777:Genoese
1764:Guipure
1744:Ipswich
1739:Mechlin
1734:Antwerp
1704:Beveren
1669:Beeralu
1649:Torchon
1586:Cutwork
1576:Tambour
1551:Buratto
1533:Youghal
1508:Ñandutí
1448:Alençon
1364:Selvage
1344:History
1339:Dye lot
1322:Related
1288:Ravelry
1102:Welting
1097:Weaving
1052:Ribbing
1022:Hemming
840:English
768:Novelty
758:Eyelash
339:Luddism
282:ribbing
239:Milford
206:fustian
145:England
137:James I
111:History
2083:Sprang
2017:Barmen
2012:Pusher
1883:Idrija
1830:Bruges
1797:Liptov
1714:Binche
1699:Tønder
1689:Chefoo
1674:Blonde
1664:Bayeux
1473:Burano
1283:Knitty
1273:Knitta
1123:Argyle
1092:Twined
1002:Gather
967:Cables
952:Bobble
876:Garter
818:Styles
753:Bouclé
746:styles
586:
274:Strutt
235:Belper
177:cotton
149:London
129:patent
1863:Cantù
1787:Cluny
1772:Greek
1724:Paris
1709:Lille
1694:Cogne
1659:Arras
1413:types
1072:Steek
1047:Pleat
1007:Gauge
376:Notes
243:Derby
198:India
51:near
2105:Lace
1855:Tape
1411:Lace
1118:Aran
1087:Tuck
1032:Lace
855:Warp
845:Flat
763:Lopi
744:Yarn
584:ISBN
513:2016
488:2016
439:2016
411:2016
278:purl
268:The
251:wool
237:and
186:lace
133:silk
1518:Pag
1513:Oya
47:of
2141::
633:.
504:.
462:,
430:.
419:^
253:.
151:.
67:.
31:A
1403:e
1396:t
1389:v
678:e
671:t
664:v
592:.
515:.
490:.
441:.
413:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
