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289:, schiffli machines were relatively expensive and required greater outside capital. Initially hand machine embroidery had better quality. Manual machine operators or "stitchers," who previously controlled the placement of each stitch and powered their machines by hand, were reluctant to embrace the newer machines and even feared that it would replace them. Eventually the quality of schiffli embroidery improved. Automated machines were much more efficient than manually operated machines.
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is accomplished by moving the frame in the opposite direction. Different manufacturers achieved different minimum stitch lengths. Saurer machines could make a stitch as small as 1/256 inch. Designs with multiple colors required re-threading all of the needles. There were also attachments for boring holes in the fabric. Both stitching and boring require very precise frame movement. Once a row of embroidery is completed the material is rolled upwards and the design is repeated.
326:, Switzerland has both manual and the later schiffli machines as well as the associated needle threading, bobbin winding, card punching and card duplicating machines. The schiffli machine is still in use today. It has evolved, but its basic form is still recognizable. Saurer is still a leading manufacturer of schiffli embroidery machines. Paper punch cards have since been replaced by a computer. The punching process is now called digitizing.
334:, and 500 and 1000 HP turbines for generating power. The factory included machine development, an iron foundry, casting shop, machine shop, and shops for assembling shuttle embroidery machines and Jacquard systems. The factory even had a private fire brigade. The table below summarizes the various models that were available in 1912. The catalog also includes images of several large factory installations near Plauen and St. Gallen.
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shuttle carries the bobbin thread, which is also known as the schiffli yarn. There is one shuttle per needle. When the front-side needle pierces the fabric it passes the embroidery thread through the fabric from front to rear. As the needle withdraws it forms a loop on the back side of the material. The shuttle which trails the bobbin thread passes through this loop. Finally, the front-side thread is pulled tight.
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completely through the fabric. Since the manual embroidery machine required the thread to be pulled completely through the fabric, after each front and back side stitch, its thread length was limited by the depth of the machine. A schiffli spool on the other hand, could hold more than 500 yards of embroidery thread. The schiffli machine is only limited by the length of thread that can fit on the bobbin.
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205:. Gröbli and Rieter then spent several years improving the machine. The first practical machines were made available in 1868. However, the machine's full potential was not realized until the beginning of the 1870s. In 1875 the first international deliveries were made to Glasgow, and then in 1876 to New York. By 1880, Rieter had sold more than 300 Schiffli embroidery machines. By then,
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A VOMAG catalog published in 1912 boasted they had delivered 13,000 embroidery machines: the first thousand in 11 years; the last thousand in 7 months. They employed 3600 experienced engineers and workman. At that time they were the second largest machine builders in Saxony. Images show the boiler
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gives a detailed history of the machines in
English. He explains basic machine operation, describes many of the stitches and techniques used, and describes the textiles and yarns that were used. It provides details about design, card punching and the various manufacturer's punch card formats.
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The
Schiffli machine used two threads – one on the front side and one on the back side of the fabric. The first thread is entwined with the second thread to form a lock stitch. The front side thread, or embroidery yarn, is held on a spool, or rather a creel of spools. A boat-shaped (German: schiffli)
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is credited with adapting the punch card concept for VOMAG. VOMAG's card reader was known as the
Automat, or the Zahn system. Saurer also added a punch card reader in 1912-14. The mechanization of the embroidery machine was now complete and the fate of the hand machine was sealed. However, since
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There are several advantages to using a lock stitch: significantly longer threads can be used, the threads are less prone to breakage, and the stitch rate is much faster. This means fewer interruptions and less frequent stops to re-thread. Unlike the hand embroidery machine, the needles do not pass
161:
Like its predecessor, the hand embroidery machine, the
Schiffli machine used a row of needles and a movable frame that holds the fabric. A shuttle embroidery machine can have several hundred needles per row. The needles are stationary and the frame moves. A stitch that occurs in any given direction
248:
Even before 1900, Saurer was able to build and sell very large numbers of schiffli machines. In 1910, there were 4,862 schiffli embroidery machines in operation in
Switzerland. By comparison, there were 15,671 hand embroidery machines were still in operation. However hand machines were clearly in
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Needle spacing, or pitch, limited the width of the embroidered design. The spacing between the needles is known as rapport. The unit for measuring spacing was the French inch (1.08 English inch). Standard spacing was known as 4/4 rapport. Machines with 3/4, 4/4, and 6/4 were typical. Theses
305:
Schneider, who lived and worked in NJ, documented the embroidery industry that existed in Hudson County, during the first half of the twentieth century. The region included yarn and fabric producers, textile bleachers and etchers, designers, as well as dealers and mechanics that supported the
302:, includes a revised history of schiffli machines. It discusses the evolution of the automat from the pantograph to mechanical, to hydraulic, to electronic. A large portion of the book describes various Schiffli machines that evolved from the Plauen design.
310:, who imported VOMAG machines from Germany, was considered to be influential in developing the machine embroidery industry in Hudson County. Schneider describes how business was cyclical, always dependent on fashion, but also how demand for items such as
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The period between 1890 and 1910 is regarded as the heyday of St. Gallen embroidery. Many embroidery factories were operating near St. Gallen during this period. Compared to manual embroidery machines, which were used in homes as part of a Swiss
177:, recorded the end points of each stitch, as well as other functions that could be performed by the machine, e.g. stitching, boring, or advancing the material. The conversion of the design into a punch card was known as punching.
261:, was used to produce other types of lace. U.S. industrialists saw the potential for domestic embroidery manufacturing. In early 1900s schiffli machines were imported and many Swiss immigrated from the canton of St. Gallen to
141:. It was especially used in the textile industry of eastern Switzerland and Saxony Germany, but also in the United Kingdom and the United States. Schiffli machines evolved from, and eventually replaced manually operated "
292:
Since the craft of stitching was learned on the job and passed from one generation to the next - many of the operational details are obscure, or have yet to be translated from German. Coleman
Schneider’s
145:" machines. The hand embroidery machine used double ended needles and passed the needles completely through the fabric. Each needle had a single, continuous thread. Whereas the schiffli machine used a
317:
Several examples of the early embroidery machines have been preserved in various museums. Functioning embroidery machines can be seen at the
Schaustickerei in Plauen, Germany, Industriekultur museum in
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machines had 342, 228, and 156 needles per row. Wider needle spacing and thus larger designs could be produced by removing some of the needles. This was known as 6/4, 12/4, or 16/4 rapport.
257:(German: Ă„tzspitze) is embroidered onto a type of fabric, a foundation, that is later dissolved. Plauen, Germany was well known for its machine lace industry. A different machine, the
149:, the same technique used by the sewing machine. By the early twentieth century schiffli machines had standardized to ten and fifteen meters in width and used more than 600 needles.
225:-Kappel also began building machines. All of these companies competed for business in the textile industry that was centered in eastern Switzerland and in particular
173:
to trace a pattern and translate the location of each stitch. Later, a card reader was used to program the machine. The punch card, a concept borrowed from the
42:
197:
The first schiffli embroidery machine was invented in 1863 by Isaak Gröbli (1822–1917). He developed a prototype at
Benninger AG in the municipality of
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preparing a punched tape was relatively expensive, hand machine embroidery continued to fill a niche - especially for small batch embroidery.
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is a multi-needle, industrial embroidery machine. It was invented by Isaak Gröbli in 1863. It was used to create various types of
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In 1898 Joseph Arnold Gröbli (1850-1939), the eldest son of Isaak Gröbli, developed the fully automated embroidery machine. The
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It explains the roles of the operators and includes a glossary of relevant terminology. His later book,
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machines. It was close to shipping and New York City’s fashion industry. The businessman
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Das
Schiffchen fliegt, die Maschine rauscht. Weber, Sticker und Fabrikanten in der Ostschweiz
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217:, Switzerland began to compete. The German machine manufacturers J.C. & H. Dietrich in
860:"SIC 2397 Schiffli Machine Embroideries - Description, Market Prospects, Industry History"
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decline after 1890. Schiffli machines were also used to create certain types of lace.
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Labor, United States Dept of
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Like the hand embroidery machine, early schiffli machines used a manually operated
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Saurer: from a small eastern Swiss company to an international technology group
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1004:. Edition A. Calavas Paris 1931, Text im Internet unter Ernest Iklé abrufbar.
322:, Switzerland, and the Textile Museum in St. Gallen. The Saurer museum in
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Machine-made Lace Industry in Europe: Calais, Plauen, St. Gall, Nottingham
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1021:, herausgegeben vom Verein fĂĽr wirtschaftshistorische Studien, ZĂĽrich:
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Card reader fully automated schiffli embroidery machine by Saurer
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990:. Amt fĂĽr Kultur des Kantons St. Gallen, St. Gallen 2003,
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Wipf, Hans Ulrich; König, Mario; Knoepfli, Adrian (2003).
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is created using embroidery and a boring tool. So called
265:, New Jersey and helped establish the industry there.
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Fully automated schiffli embroidery machine by Saurer
49:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
949:Manufactures, United States Bureau of (1905).
836:"Schiffchenstickmaschine - Dokument EP1595990"
16:Industrial embroidery machine invented in 1853
8:
1019:Schweizer Pioniere in Wirtschaft und Technik
986:. In: Sankt-Galler Geschichte 2003, Band 6,
1027:Volume 48: Drei Generationen Saurer (1988).
1009:Spitzen, Enzyklopädie der Spitzentechniken
1059:Anne Wanner - Schiffli Embroidery Machine
236:and thus the operator were replaced by a
109:Learn how and when to remove this message
1030:Volume 54: Friedrich von Martini (1992).
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771:
280:Schiffli bobbin thread winding machine
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47:adding citations to reliable sources
955:. U.S. Government Printing Office.
908:Swiss embroidery and lace industry
811:The Art of Embroidery: In the 90's
300:The Art of Embroidery: In the 90's
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808:Schneider, Coleman (1991-01-01).
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1024:Volume 15: Isaak Gröbli (1964).
349:(with pantograph or automatic)
34:needs additional citations for
1055:im Meyers Handlexikon von 1905
988:Die Zeit des Kantons 1861–1914
894:. Globe Lithographing Company.
272:Schiffli bobbin thread holders
1:
972:. Unionsverlag; ZĂĽrich 1985;
911:. Government Printing Office.
780:"Schiffli Embroidery Machine"
58:"Schiffli embroidery machine"
347:Shuttle Embroidery Machines
1047:Meyers Konversationslexikon
888:Schneider, Coleman (1968).
131:schiffli embroidery machine
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1013:VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig
1099:Embroidery in Switzerland
1069:Custom Embroidery Patches
891:Machine Made Embroideries
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686:Motorial force required
784:Textile Research Centre
864:Reference for Business
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1064:Saurer Textile Museum
1053:Artikel Stickmaschine
1002:La Broderie mécanique
814:. Coleman Schneider.
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139:certain types of lace
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1043:Artikel Nähmaschine
312:embroidered patches
1089:1863 introductions
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520:Number of needles
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421:Embroidery length
389:Embroidery length
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718:Net weight
242:Robert Zahn
147:lock stitch
1078:Categories
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845:2019-02-02
790:2 February
767:References
757:4100-4200
753:8900-9100
751:8200-8400
747:8500-8700
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238:punch card
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153:Principle
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