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the required lengths and very neatly and expertly hand sewn together with almost invisible stitches and finally joined by sewing to a plain central field piece. As a variation, pieces may be separately woven, cut up in various shapes of differing sizes and expertly sewn together and then further elaborated with embroidery. But there is a difference between these two types: while the patchwork loom shawls are made up from separate narrow strips, the patchwork embroidered shawls consists of a certain number of irregularly shaped pieces joined together, each one balancing the predominant colour scheme of the shawl.
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570:"The shawls made in Kashmir occupy a pre-eminent place among textile products; and it is to them and to their imitations from Western looms that specific importance attaches. The Kashmir shawl is characterized by the elaboration of its design, in which the "cone" pattern is a prominent feature, and by the glowing harmony, brilliance, depth, and enduring qualities of its colours. The basis of these excellences is found in the very fine, soft, short, flossy under-wool, called pashm or pashmina, found on the shawl-goat, a variety of
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tapestry-woven, fine wool shawl had become a fashionable wrap for the ladies of the
English and French elite by the 18th century. Supply fell short of demand and manufacturers pressed to produce more, created convincing embroidered versions of the woven shawls that could be produced in half the time. As early as 1803, Kashmiri needlework production was established to increase and hasten output of these shawls, which had been imitated in England since 1784 and even in France. By 1870, the advent of the
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592:, where colonies of Kashmiri weavers are established. Of shawls, apart from shape and pattern, there are only two principal classes: (1) loom-woven shawls called tiliwalla, tilikar or kani kar — sometimes woven in one piece, but more often in small segments which are sewn together with such precision that the sewing is quite imperceptible; and (2) embroidered shawls — amlikar — in which over a ground of plain pashmina is worked by needle a minute and elaborate pattern." from
634:. However, the best fleece wool is soft, silky and warm is of the wild goats, and painstakingly gathered from shrubs and rough rocks against which the animals rub off their fleece on the approach of summer. This was undoubtedly the soft fleece wool from which were made the famous and much coveted 'ring shawls' in Mughal times. Unfortunately very inferior and second rate wool taken from domesticated sheep and goats provide most of the wool used today on the looms of Kashmir.
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645:, made from Pashmina wool is a shawl embroidered almost all over with the needle on a plain woven ground. The colours most commonly seen on pashmina shawls are yellow, white, black, blue, green, purple, crimson and scarlet. The design motifs are usually formalised imitations of nature like the leaf, flower and tree designs mentioned above; they are always done in rich colours.
630:, a species of the wild Asian mountain goat. Hence the shawls came to be called Pashmina. The fine fleece used for the shawls is that which grows under the rough, woolly, outer coat of the animal; that from the under-belly, which is shed on the approach of hot weather. Materials of an inferior grade were of the wool of the wild Himalayan mountain sheep or the
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261:(expert embroiderer) works the outlines of the motifs in darker shades to bring into relief the beauty of design. This mode of craftsmanship not only produces a shawl which is reversible because of the perfect workmanship on both sides, but it combines the crafts of both weaving and embroidery and religious beliefs expressed in different shawls.
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a pair of leaves. By the late 18th century, the archetypal curved point at the top of an elliptical outline had evolved. The elaborate paisley created on
Kashmir shawls became the vogue in Europe for over a century, and it was imitations of these shawls woven in factories at Paisley, Scotland, that gave it the name
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invented centuries later, enabled Indian weavers to create sinuous floral patterns and creeper designs in brocade to rival any painted by a brush. The
Kashmir shawl that evolved from this expertise in its heyday had greater fame than any other Indian textile. Always a luxury commodity, the intricate,
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wool. Known for its warmth, light weight and characteristic buta design, the
Kashmir shawl was originally used by Mughal royalty and nobility. In the late 18th century, it arrived in Europe, where its use by Queen Victoria and Empress Joséphine popularised it as a symbol of exotic luxury and status.
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which represents a stylized cypress tree, the symbol of
Iranians. Early designs depicted single plants with large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots. As the designs became denser over time, more flowers and leaves were compacted within the shape of the tree, or issuing from vases or
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Perhaps the most characteristic of the
Kashmir shawls is the one made like patchwork. The patterns are woven on the looms in long strips, about twelve to eighteen inches in length and from one half to two inches in width. These design strips, made on very simple and primitive looms, are then cut to
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is milled blanket dyed in plain colour. Embroidery is bold and vivid in designing and done with woollen or cotton threads. Gubbas have more of a folk flavour blankets cut and patched into geometric patterns, with limited, embroidery on joining and open space. It is more like appliqué work. Colours
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The outlines of the design are further touched up and emphasized with silk or woollen thread of different colours run round the finer details; the stitch used for this is at an angle overlapping darn stitch, all the stitches used are so minute and fine that individually they can be seen with the
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was a great admirer of the shawls of
Kashmir. It was he who began the fashion of wearing them in duplicate, sewn back to back, so that the under surfaces of the shawls were never seen. During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border
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The paisley motif is so ubiquitous to Indian fabrics that it is hard to realize that it is only about 250 years old. It evolved from 1600s floral and tree-of-life designs that were created in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles. The design in India originated from
Persian motif called
449:. The importance of these shawls in fashionable women's wardrobes declined between 1865 and 1870 in Western culture. However, they became part of folk dress in a number of places including Germany, the Near East, various parts of Latin America, and Spain where they became a part of
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unaided eye only with difficulty. When
Pashmina wool is used for the embroidery work, it is made to blend so intimately with the texture of the basic shawl material that it would be difficult to insert even a fine needle between the embroidery stitches and the basic fabric.
257:(Persian, meaning "having two faces"), a woven shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. This is a unique piece of craftsmanship, in which a multi-coloured schematic pattern is woven all over the surface, and after the shawl is completed, the
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is made up of four pieces in different colours neatly joined together; the central fluid of the shawl is embellished with a medallion of flowers. However, when the field is ornamented with flowers in the four corners we have the Kunj.
253:(Persian, meaning "woolen"), and usually comprises small or large flowers delicately sprayed and combined; some shawls have net-like patterns with floral ensemble motifs in them. Still another type of Kashmir shawl is the double-sided
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still commonly used in the United States and Europe. In the late 18th century and 19th century, the paisley became an important motif in a wide range of Indian textiles, perhaps because it was associated with the
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531:. In addition to these aforementioned religious uses of shawls, they are worn for added warmth (and fashion) at outdoor or indoor evening affairs, where the temperature is warm enough for men in
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Kashmir was a pivotal point through which the wealth, knowledge, and products of ancient India passed to the world. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed
Kashmir shawls. The
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It became a toponym for the Kashmir region itself (as cashmere), inspiring mass-produced imitation industries in India and Europe, and popularising the buta, today known as the Paisley motif.
417:. Decline in market for expensive shawls, due to changes in fashion and the mass market competition from industrial production led to the ending of Norwich shawl making in the 1870s.
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Although a garment so simple in shape and form undoubtedly has a long history in the Near East, the finest shawls of the modern era are synonymous with the name of Kashmir.
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a finished length of fur using the skins of more than one animal is used; the word stole stands alone or is used in combination:
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The embroidery stitch employed is rather like the parallel darning stitch and is rarely allowed to penetrate the entire fabric.
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The Art of Asian Costume: An Exhibition Presented at the University of Hawaii Art Gallery, November 13 to December 23, 1988
231:—these are done in deep mellow tones of maroon, dark red, gold yellow and browns. Yet another type of Kashmir shawl is the
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Shawls are used in order to keep warm, to complement a costume, and for symbolic reasons. One famous type of shawl is the
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The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of
352:, were even said to be as fine as the Shatoosh. They could be in one colour only, woven in different colours (called
779:; it is a length of a quality material, wrapped and carried about the shoulders or arms. Lighter materials such as
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of Kashmir. Inferior pashm and Kerman wool — a fine soft Persian sheep's wool — are used for shawl weaving at
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Shawls were also part of the traditional male costume in Kashmir. They were woven in extremely fine woollen
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loom in Europe destroyed the exclusivity of the original Kashmir shawl, which began to be produced in
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337:. Cashmere Shawl is an evergreen shawl in all over india and in the world. "Rural Indians called an
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in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. It is associated with the inhabitants of the northern
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The Kashmir shawl is a type of shawl distinctive for its Kashmiri weave, and traditionally made of
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in the early- to mid-19th century. Shawls in the Indian style were manufactured in the city of
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from the late 18th century. The "Norwich shawl" was produced by hand weavers using silk and
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court. It also caught the attention of poorer and non-Muslim Indians because it resembles a
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A Norwich shawl sold locally in mid-19th century for 7 pounds (approximately £700 in 2016)
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or skin, of a single animal (head included) is generally used with street dress while for
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shawls are usually knitted from the neck down, and may or may not be shaped. In contrast,
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The floral design appears in a heavy, close embroidery-like weave in dull silk or soft
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and fringes were available in Europe and the Americas by 1820. These were called
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775:. A stole is narrower than a typical shawl and of simpler construction than a
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Simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms
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Wilson, Kax (January–February 1981). "Kashmir Shawls from Europe and Asia".
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contributed to the association of the shawls with Spain rather than China.
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Worth, Susannah (December 1995). "Early 20th Century Embroidered Shawls".
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1194:. Internet Archive. New York : Fairchild Publications. p. 547.
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Vital New Testament Issues: Examining New Testament Passages and Problems
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1298:. Vol. 24 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 814.
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Worth, Susannah (1986). "Embroidered China Crepe Shawls: 1800–1870".
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the central field is quite plain and without any ornamentation. The
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A stole is a woman's shawl, especially a formal shawl of expensive
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This article incorporates text from a publication now in the
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245:- Doña Josefa de la Cotera y Calvo de la Puerta - Mexican overall
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Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings
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because they were shipped to Spain from China via the port of
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Some cultures incorporate shawls of various types into their
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Decorative Design History In Indian Textiles and Costumes
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ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread.
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are bright and attractive. They are cheap and used for
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49:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
140:wearing a traditional Saami wool shawl onstage at
735:are knitted bottom up and contain a centre back
413:, are the origin of the name of the traditional
1243:. Chandigarh: Abhishekh. pp. 42–56, 185.
296:. Even the characteristic Kashmiri motif, the
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1222:. Chandigarh: abhishek. pp. 30–34, 95.
507:The wearing of shawls in early 19th-century
1220:Traditional Indian costumes & textiless
539:and where a jacket might be inappropriate.
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1105:. Wipf and Stock Publishers. p. 105.
405:and supplied the high end of the market.
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109:Learn how and when to remove this message
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1101:Zuck, RoyCheck B. (5 September 2006).
1001:j&k sheep husbandry kashmir.nic.in
523:men during prayers and ceremonies. In
409:, imitation Kashmiri shawls woven in
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799:; heavier materials such as fur and
47:adding citations to reliable sources
767:, used around the shoulders over a
576:inhabiting the elevated regions of
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1191:Fairchild's dictionary of textiles
420:Silk shawls with fringes, made in
300:, began to be known simply as the
264:The most expensive shawls, called
14:
1167:. The Gallery. 1989. p. 34.
1073:Costume & Textile Association
341:or mango a symbol of fertility".
314:women wearing traditional shawls.
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1188:Wingate, Isabel Barnum (1979).
1130:. London: H.M. Stationery Off.
34:needs additional citations for
702:covering or as floor covering—
527:, women have used shawls as a
389:were high-fashion garments in
129:bride with an engagement shawl
1:
1438:Court dress (Empire of Japan)
1069:"The Story Of Norwich Shawls"
382:wearing a traditional shawl.
956:Online Etymology Dictionary
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1359:10.1179/036121186803657490
551:
2596:History of Asian clothing
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1408:
1237:Bhatnagar, Parul (2005).
1218:Bhatnagar, Parul (2004).
814:, worn as a stole with a
803:are often lined as well.
723:woman wrapped in a shawl.
693:The basic material for a
217:apple and cherry blossoms
888:Boa (clothing accessory)
857:Stole, designed by Mme.
810:or set of furs, usually
594:Encyclopaedia Britannica
588:and other places in the
1295:Encyclopædia Britannica
624:, which is the wool of
535:, but not for women in
163:,) is a simple item of
806:A stole can also be a
747:Shalli is a handwoven
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459:) dress especially in
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2431:Manchu platform shoes
1067:Hoyte, Helen (2016).
751:weaved shawl made of
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411:Paisley, Renfrewshire
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2343:Stephane (headdress)
1310:Irwin, John (1973).
1126:Irwin, John (1973).
791:, that is, cropped,
600:Pashmina or kar Amir
378:model and filmmaker
43:improve this article
2572:Clothing portal
1402:Historical clothing
861:(French, 1869–1936)
733:Faroese lace shawls
478:national folk dress
348:, some such as the
185:Indian subcontinent
1325:Art & Antiques
838:, the namesake of
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637:The needle-worked
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548:The Kashmir shawls
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442:mantones de Manila
430:China crêpe shawls
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175:, but can also be
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2601:Indian inventions
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2416:Episcopal sandals
1681:Close-bodied gown
1583:Sompot Chong Kben
1312:The Kashmir Shawl
1250:978-81-8247-087-3
1201:978-0-87005-198-2
1128:The kashmir shawl
1112:978-1-59752-684-5
1054:, pp. 30–34.
1039:, pp. 42–56.
876:with a fur collar
874:Dorota Rabczewska
608:Shawl weavers in
294:Paisley, Scotland
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1731:Zaju chuishao fu
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1304:Further reading
1288:, ed. (1911). "
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1017:
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552:Main article:
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407:Paisley shawls
391:Western Europe
380:Amleset Muchie
350:Orenburg shawl
221:rose and tulip
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187:—particularly
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1256:September 19,
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1007:on 2018-01-04
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60: –
59:
55:
54:Find sources:
48:
44:
38:
37:
32:This article
30:
26:
21:
20:
2093:Anthony Eden
2045:Open drawers
1896:Galway shawl
1890:
1711:Robe de cour
1350:
1346:
1337:
1333:
1324:
1311:
1293:
1254:. Retrieved
1239:
1219:
1212:Bibliography
1190:
1183:
1163:
1157:
1149:
1127:
1121:
1102:
1096:
1087:
1076:. Retrieved
1072:
1032:
1020:
1009:. Retrieved
1005:the original
1000:
991:
964:
955:
946:
835:
831:
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703:
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669:
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642:
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627:Capra hircus
625:
621:
617:
615:
593:
573:Capra hircus
571:
569:
563:
559:
557:
529:headcovering
525:Christianity
514:
492:Traditional
475:
468:
454:
440:
434:China shawls
433:
429:
419:
385:
365:
356:), ornately
353:
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160:
149:
147:
138:Maxida Märak
105:
96:
86:
79:
72:
65:
53:
41:Please help
36:verification
33:
2549:Shoe buckle
2476:Accessories
2426:Lotus shoes
2203:Jeongjagwan
2178:French hood
2128:Blessed hat
2050:Pantalettes
2018:Farthingale
1928:Ulster coat
1908:Smock-frock
1821:Houppelande
1611: [
1416:Body-length
1340:(4): 38–41.
1334:Needle Arts
1266:Attribution
840:Dreamlander
828:formal wear
787:are simply
769:party dress
753:angora goat
712:Knit shawls
674:Khali-matan
612:circa 1903.
362:embroidered
298:mango-shape
229:nightingale
169:rectangular
142:Riddu Riđđu
2585:Categories
2519:Lavallière
2436:Pampooties
2193:Gable hood
2070:Union suit
2065:Pettipants
2008:Hoop skirt
1938:Witzchoura
1608:Saragüells
1545:Poet shirt
1463:Justacorps
1453:Frock coat
1314:. London:
1078:2024-04-06
1011:2019-01-09
939:References
843:Mink Stole
836:mink stole
678:Char-bagan
519:, worn by
426:embroidery
213:plane tree
181:triangular
99:April 2013
69:newspapers
2494:Cointoise
2489:Belt hook
2484:Ascot tie
2466:Turnshoes
2451:Poulaines
2411:Duckbills
2396:Carbatina
2358:Welsh Wig
2308:Printer's
2268:Mounteere
2258:Mooskappe
2218:Kokoshnik
2103:Arakhchin
2055:Petticoat
2040:Loincloth
2013:Crinoline
1948:Underwear
1886:Shadbelly
1856:Overfrock
1811:Greatcoat
1741:Outerwear
1706:Polonaise
1686:Debutante
1643:Safeguard
1433:Brunswick
1353:: 43–51.
832:fur stole
773:ball gown
656:Do-Shalla
560:shahtoosh
461:Andalusia
436:, and in
376:Ethiopian
266:shahtoosh
171:piece of
2446:Pigaches
2406:Chopines
2373:Footwear
2298:Phrygian
2278:Nightcap
2253:Monmouth
2183:Fontange
2163:Cornette
2158:Coonskin
2148:Cavalier
2138:Capotain
2085:Headwear
2060:Peignoir
1981:Corselet
1976:Codpiece
1966:Chausses
1816:Himation
1754:Car coat
1726:Tea gown
1588:Culottes
1578:Breeches
1565:Trousers
1555:Suea pat
1493:Xout lao
1327:: 69–73.
882:See also
789:finished
721:Hesquiat
670:Do-shala
622:Pashmina
596:, 1911
586:Amritsar
582:maharaja
564:pashmina
364:(called
290:Jacquard
255:Dourukha
251:pashmina
233:Jamia Vr
165:clothing
2534:Partlet
2504:Hairpin
2441:Pattens
2421:Hessian
2391:Caligae
2381:Buskins
2353:Taranga
2338:Smoking
2328:Salakot
2318:Qeleshe
2313:Pudding
2293:Petasos
2288:Pahlavi
2283:Ochipok
2238:Miner's
2228:Malahai
2223:Llawt'u
2143:Caubeen
2123:Bergère
2113:Aviator
2108:Attifet
2023:Pannier
1971:Chemise
1923:Surtout
1918:Surcoat
1913:Spencer
1876:Pelisse
1871:Pallium
1861:Pañuelo
1796:Doublet
1774:Chlamys
1769:Chamail
1668:Dresses
1573:Braccae
1535:Doublet
1525:Bedgown
1468:Paenula
1283::
1146:3241655
952:"Shawl"
913:Pañuelo
801:brocade
785:chiffon
755:hairs.
639:Amlikar
610:Kashmir
537:dresses
403:worsted
399:Norfolk
395:Norwich
354:tilikar
326:paisley
302:paisley
281:Persian
259:rafugar
215:leaf),
205:Kanikar
199:History
189:Kashmir
154:Persian
127:Persian
83:scholar
58:"Shawl"
2554:Visard
2509:Hatpin
2386:Calcei
2363:Wimple
2348:Tainia
2303:Pileus
2248:Modius
2213:Kausia
2208:Jewish
2198:Hennin
2173:Fillet
2133:Bonnet
2118:Ba tầm
2003:Garter
1998:Dickey
1986:Corset
1961:Bustle
1956:Basque
1933:Visite
1881:Poncho
1846:Nadiri
1836:Kandys
1831:Jerkin
1806:Exomis
1801:Duster
1791:Dolman
1759:Caraco
1749:Capote
1721:Sailor
1701:Mantua
1696:Kirtle
1676:Bliaut
1648:Sompot
1638:Poodle
1633:Hobble
1625:Skirts
1530:Bodice
1520:Basque
1473:Peplos
1443:Chiton
1428:Banyan
1423:Abolla
1277:
1247:
1226:
1198:
1171:
1144:
1134:
1109:
933:Tallit
928:Serape
918:Poncho
898:Chapan
824:pelage
822:; the
795:, and
793:hemmed
765:fabric
743:Shalli
737:gusset
705:namdas
590:Punjab
521:Jewish
517:tallit
509:France
499:shawl.
494:Hajong
470:Carmen
465:Madrid
456:gitana
451:Romani
447:Manila
331:Mughal
312:Somali
277:naksha
227:, the
223:, the
219:, the
211:leaf (
209:Chinar
193:Punjab
177:square
152:(from
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2456:Socci
2333:Snood
2273:Nemes
2188:Futou
2168:Dunce
1901:Kullu
1891:Shawl
1866:Palla
1779:Cloak
1658:Train
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1593:Harem
1488:Tunic
1478:Stola
1458:Hanfu
1448:Frock
1347:Dress
1290:Shawl
923:Ruana
903:Cloak
797:bound
759:Stole
749:twill
700:dewan
695:gubba
618:Pashm
578:Tibet
543:Types
533:suits
497:Argon
484:Usage
438:Spain
422:China
366:ameli
358:woven
346:twill
335:mango
270:Chiru
173:cloth
150:shawl
90:JSTOR
76:books
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2323:Qing
2153:Coif
2098:Apex
2030:Hose
1691:Gown
1653:Sinh
1550:Sbai
1512:Tops
1483:Toga
1316:HMSO
1258:2011
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1196:ISBN
1169:ISBN
1142:OCLC
1132:ISBN
1107:ISBN
893:Cape
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816:suit
783:and
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777:cape
729:lace
668:The
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463:and
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275:The
191:and
161:shāl
144:2019
62:news
2529:Oes
2243:Mob
2075:Yếm
1355:doi
1292:".
818:or
812:fox
808:fur
771:or
641:or
620:or
562:or
432:or
368:).
360:or
339:aam
179:or
158:شال
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