350:. McCardell in particular has been described as America's greatest sportswear designer. Her simple, practical clothes suited the relaxed American dress code, neither formal nor informal, that became established during the 1930s and 1940s. McCardell once proclaimed: "I belong to a mass production country where any of us, all of us, deserve the right to good fashion." Martin credits the 1930s and 40s sportswear designers with freeing American fashion from the need to copy Paris couture. Where Paris fashion was traditionally imposed onto the customer regardless of her wishes, American sportswear was democratic, widely available, and encouraged self-expression. The early sportswear designers proved that the creation of original ready-to-wear fashion could be a legitimate design art which responded stylishly to utilitarian requirements.
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402:. Shaver advertised her American designers as if they were French couturiers, and promoted their lower costs as a positive feature, rather than a sign of inferiority. One of Shaver's retail experiments was a 'College Shop' section in the store, opened in the early 1930s and run by her assistant Helen Maddock, with the intent of offering casual but flattering clothing to young female college students. The stock, however, ended up selling swiftly to adult women as well as to the students.
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964:. Viterbo's husband, Henri, was President of the Fédération Française du Vêtement (French Clothing Federation), which meant that he regularly promoted French fashion abroad, while their eldest daughter, Miquette, an international attorney, had married Mort Schrader, the son and heir of the successful American ready-to-wear fashion manufacturer Abe Schrader. This meant that Miquette was well-positioned to manage Tiktiner's American interests.
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684:, whose fashion career began in 1946, founded his own company, Bill Blass Limited. Blass's wearable designs were designed to be worn day and night and he was said to have raised American sportswear to the highest possible level. Like Beene, he introduced menswear touches to his sportswear, which was described as clean, modern and impeccable in style. Kirkland commented in 1985 that sportswear designers such as
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556:, on a long formal skirt so that it could be securely hitched up to enable the wearer to run up and down stairs, and her ponchoes and hoods (which could be rolled down to form elegant cowl-collars) were originally designed for driving on cool mornings. Cashin became one of the first American designers to have an international reputation. Alongside Cashin,
373:, who by the late 1930s was regularly ranked alongside Potter as a leading name in mid-range priced sportswear. Like Potter, Brigance understood how to design smart and fashionable clothing for mass-production, which made his clothes attractive to manufacturers as well as to customers. Two other notable male designers of sportswear at this time were
647:, each of whom created distinctive wardrobes for the American woman based upon stylish but wearable, comfortable and interchangeable multi-purpose clothes that combined practicability with luxury. These clothes were also designed to have a long, stylish and undated life, rather than to only be fashionable for one season. In 1976, the designer
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lifting of fabric rationing and restrictions following the War, American designers were able to use unlimited fabric and the development of permanent pleating meant that pleated dresses and full skirts were easy to look after. In addition to this, American stores had begun to recognise the commercial value of separates, with
71:, developed to cater to the needs of the increasingly fast-paced lifestyle of American women. It started out as a fashion industry term describing informal and interchangeable separates (i.e., blouses, shirts, skirts and shorts), and in the 1920s became a popular word for relaxed, casual wear typically worn for
920:. Through his second company base in Milan, Goldworm became the first American knitwear designer to take advantage of Italian quality and bring it to the New York market. In 1959 Goldworm, in recognition of his active promotion and support of the Italian knitwear industry, was made a Commander of the
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bodices and lightweight, easy-wear circle or pleated skirts to reproduce the same silhouette. Unlike traditional made-to-measure French couture fashion, designed for specific silhouettes, American sportswear was designed to accommodate a variety of body shapes and enable freedom of movement. With the
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such as McCardell's group of five wool jersey pieces from 1934, comprising two tops, long and short skirts, and a pair of culottes; and
Maxwell's "weekend wardrobe" of five tweed and flannel garments. Both were designed to accommodate formal and informal occasions depending on how they were assembled
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using sales figures to back up their claims. Maxwell and Potter were two of the first three sportswear designers, along with Helen
Cookman, to be showcased and name-checked in Shaver's window displays and advertisements for Lord & Taylor. Between 1932 and 1939, Shaver's "American Look" program at
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were among the first
American designers in the 1930s to gain name recognition through their innovative clothing designs, which Martin described as demonstrating "problem-solving ingenuity and realistic lifestyle applications". Garments were designed to be easy-to-wear and comfortable, using practical
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Despite the acceptance of fashionable sportswear as a form of casual dressing in French fashion in the 1920s, the
American garment industry went on to become the most prominent producers of such clothing. The key difference between French and American sportswear was that French sportswear was usually
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which started in 1929 acted as a trigger to encourage
American fashion to focus on homegrown style and design – particularly sportswear. With 13 million Americans left unemployed by the Depression, it was necessary to create jobs and reduce the competition from imported goods in order to improve the
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as an example of French sportswear, noting that their focus on separates, knitwear and basic colours created a specific "Tiktiner look". Tiktiner, founded in the late 1940s by Dina
Tiktiner Viterbo, became extremely popular in the United States as well as in Europe. In 1972 a Tiktiner boutique was
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in 1975 described Calvin Klein as having styled his clean, casual separates with the authority of a couture designer, and by 1985, Martin described him as "one of the great
American stylists" with a solid international reputation and worldwide influence entirely based on his skills as a sportswear
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reported upon Chanel's sporty garments, noting the absence of equivalent apparel from New York fashion presentations. However, Martin has noted that while Chanel was undeniably important and influential, her work was always based on couture construction rather than the easy-wear nature of
American
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began to form part of the working woman's wardrobe. Prior to 1920, men and women could both demonstrate their being at leisure simply by removing a jacket, either literally in the case of menswear, or metaphorically by a woman wearing a shirtwaist blouse that resembled a man's shirt worn without a
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simplified their designs for ready-to-wear production, but at first only the
Italian designers understood the sportswear principle. Italy already had a reputation for fine fabrics and excellent workmanship, and the emergence of high quality Italian ready-to-wear that combined this luxury with the
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In the 1930s and '40s, it was rare for clothing to be justified through its practicality. It was traditionally thought that Paris fashion exemplified beauty, and therefore, sportswear required different criteria for assessment. The designer's personal life was therefore linked to their sportswear
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houses and "sporty" garments were increasingly worn as everyday or informal wear, the early
American sportswear designers were associated with ready-to-wear manufacturers. While most fashions in America in the early 20th century were directly copied from, or influenced heavily by Paris, American
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and Vass, who specialised in hand-knits in wool and cotton. By the mid-1980s, sportswear had become a key part of the international fashion scene, forming a large part of America's contribution to the twice-yearly fashion presentations alongside top-end collections from Paris, Milan and London.
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As more generic, versatile sportswear became more prominent in the Paris collections, the press increasingly promoted the wearing of such garments in an everyday context. By the mid-1920s, American advertisers also began actively pushing the idea that sporty clothing was just as appropriate for
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declared Zoran's less-is-more sportswear prophetic of the early 1990s modernist trend, whilst Zoran stated that the work of Calvin Klein, Karan, and the Anne Klein label epitomised the "comfort, simplicity, and practicality" associated with sportswear. Most early 21st century sportswear design
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was an important promoter of the American Look and sportswear. As founder of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and creator of New York Fashion Week, Lambert is considered the first fashion publicist. In the summer of 1940, Lambert was hired by the Dress Institute to promote American
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noted how Halston's work, particularly his success with making basic garments in luxurious fabrics, was that of an "anti-designer" who liberated American women of fashion from needlessly elaborate, conventional high fashion from high-end establishment American designers. She also singled out
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declared that McCardell could make a smart dress to wear anywhere out of "five dollars worth of common cotton calico." Other sportswear designs often incorporated elements of sporty informal or casual wear, as exemplified by Clare Potter's evening sweater worn with a long skirt draped like a
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is an American fashion term originally used to describe separates, but which since the 1930s has come to be applied to day and evening fashions of varying degrees of formality that demonstrate a specific relaxed approach to their design, while remaining appropriate for a wide range of social
202:. Redfern's clothes, although intended for specific sporting pursuits, were adopted as everyday wear by his clients, making him probably the first sportswear designer. Also in the late nineteenth century, garments associated with activewear and/or modified from menswear, such as the
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illustrates people from the breadth of Paris society taking advantage of their free time by going to the riverside to show off new clothes, but that the act of removing one's jacket or otherwise loosening garments as a signifier of actually being at leisure was almost never done.
426:) as everyday footwear and functional pockets in skirts and trousers. Dressy garments made from casual fabrics, such as McCardell and Joset Walker's evening dresses and dress-and-coat ensembles made out of cotton, became a key sportswear look. The American couturier
268:. In contrast to the flexibility of American sportswear, these expensive couture garments were typically prescribed for very specific circumstances. Many couturiers began designing clothing that, whilst suitable for sport, could be worn in a wider range of contexts.
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and Joan Vass were no longer "borrowing from the boys," but had begun making menswear too. In addition to the high-end names who produced apparel in large quantity, a more personal level of sportswear was offered in the early 1980s by smaller designers such as
568:(which was developed in Italy) enabled the mass-production of easy-to-wear knitted suits, coats and dresses that retained their shape and became a key American look in the 1960s and '70s. Another knitwear development involved varying the lines of the classic
536:, who started producing ready-to-wear clothing in 1949, is considered one of the most influential American sportswear designers. She was known for her extremely practical layered ensembles inspired by ethnographic garments and textiles such as the Japanese
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Sportswear originally described activewear: clothing made specifically for sport. Part of the evolution of sportswear was triggered by 19th-century developments in female activewear, such as early bathing or cycling costumes, which demanded shorter skirts,
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dated May 21, 1945, which explicitly described girls with an athletic 'American look' of good teeth, good grooming, and good, not-too-masculine, simple, neat attire, as being seen as preferable to girls from England, France, Australia or Polynesia.
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a small part of a high-end designer's output, while the American sportswear designers focused on affordable, versatile, easy-care garments that could be mass-produced and were relevant to the customer's lifestyle, enabling the modern, increasingly
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brought out the first of a number of collections of extremely simple garments made of the finest quality fabrics; garments that barely changed over the years and which became cult objects to his wealthy clientele. In 1993, the fashion journalist
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in 1929 suggested that while men might admire a girl in an glamorous evening gown, they would be less intimidated by her approachable, friendly appearance in good-quality sportswear. Sportswear was also presented as an accessible version of
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emerged in the 1950s as a key name in sportswear design, first becoming known for his swimsuits, but then expanding into geometrically cut, graphic clothes and knitwear that Kirkland described as the epitome of the "new California."
680:, one of the first significant male sportswear designers, incorporated relaxed layering and elements of menswear into his women's clothing, details that continue to widely influence early 21st century industry designers. In 1970,
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Rebecca Arnold and Emily S. Rosenberg have noted how the American look, demonstrated through healthy teeth and the use of affordable, good-quality fashionable clothing to present a neat and practical appearance, despite claims of
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became particularly known for their sportswear designs, made in all-natural fibres such as wool, combed cotton, and linen, which placed them at the top tier of American fashion design alongside the Anne Klein label (designed by
75:. Since the 1930s, the term has been used to describe both day and evening fashions of varying degrees of formality that demonstrate this relaxed approach while remaining appropriate wear for many business or social occasions.
300:. Affordable, well-designed all-American sportswear was presented as a way of enabling a less wealthy customer to feel part of that same lifestyle. However, at first, American apparel firms mostly copied French styles.
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His late father was a fashion designer and executive for Goldworm Knitwear based in New York and Milan, Italy. He was awarded the Star of Solidarity and the title of commander by the Italian government.
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as showing pioneering garments, whose modesty, comparative simplicity, and wearability treated fashion as a "pragmatic art." de Montebello carefully explained how significant American designers such as
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In the 1950s and 1960s, designers continued to develop the theme of affordable, practical and innovative sportswear, producing clothing that focused on wearability rather than fashion fads, including
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christened Venjulia suits. The success of the Venjulia suits, which took into account the need of athletes for functional, warm garments enabling freedom of movement, led to their being worn by the
516:, noted that McCardell and others had already been thinking along the lines of longer and fuller skirts and fitted bodices, but that unlike Dior's heavily stiffened and corseted designs, they used
86:, in which he described sportswear as "an American invention, an American industry, and an American expression of style." For Martin, American sportswear was an expression of various predominantly
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sometimes incorporate elements of sportswear and activewear into their work. Lhuillier, mainly known for formal gowns, introduced sporty necklines and aerodynamic elements into her collection for
552:. Her designs incorporated leather bindings, pockets with purse clasps, hooded jersey dresses and tops, and industrial zippers and fastenings. She put a brass clip resembling those used on
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Martin has observed that in America, prior to increasing worker freedoms from the mid-late 19th century onwards, leisure had been a luxury available only to the leisured classes during the
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In the late 1940s and 1950s, non-American designers began to pay attention to sportswear, and attempted to produce collections following its principle. French couturiers including
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for Arnold & Fox. In the 1960s, American sportswear depended on very simple shapes, often made in vivid colours and bold, geometric prints (such as those by Gernreich and
272:, who promoted her own active, financially independent lifestyle through relaxed jersey suits and uncluttered dresses, became famous for clothes of "the sports type." In 1926
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296:, a term for the luxurious travelling clothing and holiday wear worn by those who could afford a leisurely lifestyle with multiple vacations, such as cruises, yachting, and
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The quality of Italian sportswear was recognized early on by Robert Goldworm, an American sportswear designer who in 1947 joined his New York-based family company
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so that it could be extended into dress-length versions, long or short sleeves, and other variations, including, by 1960, a sequined long evening version by
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American economy. At the same time, the growth of female athleticism and increased female employment fueled a need for simpler and less expensive clothing.
260:(the pseudonym of Madame Balouzet Tillard de Tigny), who opened a couture house specialising in clothing for sport and travel. Another famous tennis player,
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and an eight-hour working day in America in the mid-20th century led to the need for clothing which enabled the fullest possible enjoyment of such increased
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Along with many other designers, Gernreich took advantage of the development in the mid-1950s of upgraded machine-knitting techniques to produce his work.
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French resort-wear designers, rather than Paris couturiers, were most likely to capture the principle and spirit of sportswear. Richard Martin cited the
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noted that the boundaries between activewear and fashion sportswear had become increasingly blurred since the 1980s, with many people choosing to wear
94:, ideas of comfort and function, and innovative design which might refer to historical concepts or leisure attributes. The establishment of a five-day
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began to enter business independently, rather than relying on the backing of their manufacturers, or working in association with firms and companies.
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as an immobile, "static and stratified" depiction of leisure in "direct antithesis" of the relaxed, casual American equivalent. T.J. Clarke notes how
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369:. A common argument was that female designers projected their personal values into this new style. One of the few male designers at this time was
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regular daywear as it was for active pursuits, presenting it as the epitome of modernity and the American ideal. One advertisement put out by
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published that their surveys showed that an average of 64% of women interviewed preferred casual wear, including sportswear as distinct from
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could be played in barely-modified conventional dress. One of the first couturiers to specialise in sports-specific clothing was the British
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1978:"Anne Fogarty: Day dress and coat (C.I.63.47.3ab)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–.
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Woman wearing a "sport suit," American, June 1920. Sportswear originally described interchangeable separates, as here. Signed "Evans, LA"
872:, grasped that there was a market for clothing that combined sophistication and comfort. This was a challenge to the American industry.
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which were versatile enough to work in multiple contexts from swimsuit cover-ups to party dresses. Other McCardell signatures included
312:'s assistance. Although the influence of Europe, particularly Parisian high fashion and English tailoring, was always significant, the
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casual quality of American sportswear ensured the worldwide success of Italian fashion by the mid-1970s. Italian designers, including
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fashion, leading to newspaper and magazine articles about how New York was replacing Paris as a global fashion leader. In 1940, both
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designs that could be considered sportswear, it was typically not their design focus. A notable exception was the tennis player
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designer. The industry empires of Lauren and Calvin Klein would be joined in the mid-1980s by Donna Karan's own-name label and
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time, and was designed accordingly. A subsequent exhibition of 1930s-70s sportswear, also curated by Martin, at the
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follows in the footsteps of these designers. Other notable sportswear designers of the late 20th century include
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This article is about fashionable clothing identified and marketed as 'sportswear'. For clothing for sports, see
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In the 21st century, Italian fashion remains a leading source for sportswear design outside the United States.
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reporting in 1949 that separates made up an all-time-high of 30% of clothing sales in the States that Fall.
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2254:. In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. (October 2004)
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in Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. (October 2004)
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The "American Look", which is an alternative term for American sportswear, was coined in 1932 by
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The American look : fashion, sportswear, and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York
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The American look : fashion, sportswear, and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York
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The American look : fashion, sportswear and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York
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After the Second World War, the emergence in Paris of the luxurious "New Look" popularised by
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1501:"American Sportswear: A Study Of The Origins And Women Designers From The 1930s To The 1960s"
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Fashion Design, Referenced: A Visual Guide to the History, Language, and Practice of Fashion
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F, José Blanco; Hunt-Hurst, Patricia Kay; Lee, Heather Vaughan; Doering, Mary (2015-11-23).
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with her top-quality sportswear designs in the 1990s, and continues designing for the firm.
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Before co-founding the business that later became Missoni with his bride Rosita in 1953,
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Lord & Taylor promoted over sixty American designers including McCardell, Potter and
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Arnold, Rebecca (2008). "New York and the Evolution of Sportswear 1929-39: Sportswear".
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and accessorised. McCardell also became well known for designs such as the Monastic and
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Notable New York sportswear designers of the first decade of the 21st century included
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who in the 1870s began designing tailored garments for increasingly active women who
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sportswear became a home-grown exception to this rule, and could be described as the
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Tim Gunn's fashion bible : the fascinating history of everything in your closet
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A smart young woman in a lightweight jacket and printed silk blouse. American, 1935.
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The precursors of true sportswear emerged in New York before the Second World War.
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Advertisement (16 March 1929). "Advertisement caption for Abercrombie and Fitch".
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Among the key designs produced by this new generation of American designers were
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2345:"Ottavio Missoni: Fashion designer who transformed the world of luxury knitwear"
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Body and Nation: The Global Realm of U.S. Body Politics in the Twentieth Century
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Body and Nation: The Global Realm of U.S. Body Politics in the Twentieth Century
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designs. Another selling point was sportswear's popularity with consumers, with
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Many of the first sportswear designers were women, including McCardell, Potter,
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2296:. Translated by Steve Piccolo (1st U.S. ed.). Milan: Electa. p. 19.
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Gunn, Tim; Calhoun, Ada (2012). "Athletic Wear: Attack of the Playclothes".
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890:, and other Italian designers were "the first to make refined sportswear."
26:
2221:(1st Gallery Books hardcover ed.). New York: Gallery Books. pp.
3675:
3474:
3272:
3200:
3190:
3029:
956:
917:
776:
638:
195:
1296:
The Painting of Modern Life: Paris in the Art of Manet and His Followers
764:
Designers who do not typically work in the sportswear tradition such as
484:
Claire McCardell surrounded by models wearing her designs, 2 May 1955. (
3911:
3685:
2614:
902:
887:
588:
569:
423:
199:
179:
99:
3558:
3170:
3115:
1395:
Dressing modern Frenchwomen : marketing haute couture, 1919-1939
883:
803:
780:
549:
537:
297:
191:
90:
aspects of American culture, including health ideals, the concept of
1469:
Kennedy, Alicia; Stoehrer, Emily Banis; Calderin, Jay (2013-02-01).
931:, who is known for streamlined and pared down clothing, launched in
2583:
2085:. Yale University Press, New Haven & London. pp. 104–105.
940:
932:
701:
553:
541:
479:
343:
319:
203:
25:
2196:
3105:
3019:
2172:
Bill Blass, Whose Clothes Gave Casual an Elegant Air, Dies at 79
583:
Towards the end of the 1960s, many sportswear designers such as
545:
3562:
2587:
1025:(2nd ed.). Fairchild Publications, New York. p. 545.
3247:
2381:
Fashioning an Artful Life: One Woman's Life History in Clothes
1398:. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press. pp. 209–10.
67:
Sportswear has been called America's main contribution to the
1774:"Clare Potter, Who Set Trends In Women's Clothes, Dies at 95"
1525:. Yale University Press, New Haven & London. p. 27.
1420:"Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1883–1971) and the House of Chanel"
16:
Fashion category of relaxed day clothes, originally separates
467:
of beauty. Rosenberg has pointed out a six-page spread in
2129:"Simply Modern:Contrasting Looks at Luxury for the 1990s"
1836:"Eleanor Of Seventh Avenue: Where Fashion Week Came From"
753:, who were all featured in the Sportswear section of the
1980:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.63.47.3ab
1908:
Rosenberg, Emily S.; Fitzpatrick, Shanon (30 Jul 2014).
1100:
The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language
599:
In a 1974 essay titled "Recession Dressing," the writer
2111:
The fashionable mind: reflections on fashion, 1970-1981
1700:
Rosenberg, Emily S.; Fitzpatrick, Shanon (2014-07-30).
1202:
Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe
38:
occasions. The term is not necessarily synonymous with
1955:
The Scribner Encyclopedia of American Lives: The 1960s
1171:. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. pp. 7–8.
2433:"Ms. Mandell, Mr. Goldworm are Married at Makonikey"
2319:
Fashioning fabrics: contemporary textiles in fashion
1860:"How Fashion Legend Bonnie Cashin Broke Into Bazaar"
3894:
3873:
3852:
3814:
3596:
3488:
3440:
3337:
3228:
3151:
3086:
3077:
3040:
2961:
2887:
2762:
2739:
2696:
2631:
2555:"Stella McCartney brings a sexy vibe to sportswear"
236:
A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte
2343:
2214:
1661:. Fashion Institute of Technology. pp. 34–43.
1578:. London: I. B. Tauris. pp. 9, 107, 120–122.
1546:Batterberry, Michael; Batterberry, Ariane (1982).
82:put on an exhibition on sportswear in 1985 at the
2461:Martin, Richard; Benbow-Pfalzgraf, Taryn (2002).
2408:World of fashion : people, places, resources
2252:"Made in Italy: Italian Fashion from 1950 to Now"
1168:American ingenuity : sportswear, 1930s–1970s
1144:. Fashion Institute of Technology. pp. 8–21.
229:had condemned leisure for all. He cites the 1884
2184:The Monitor Celebrates Sixty Years of Sportswear
2174:. Published 13 June 2002. Accessed 16 March 2012
972:Successful British sportswear designers include
264:, was director of the sportswear department at
1800:"Eleanor Lambert – All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons"
1264:
1262:
1260:
1258:
1256:
1254:
1252:
1250:
1248:
673:, who presented his first collection in 1987.
455:published issues devoted to American fashion.
3574:
2599:
2384:. University of Minnesota. pp. 107–108.
2051:"Bonnie Cashin; Influential Fashion Designer"
1673:"Dorothy Shaver: The First Lady of Retailing"
1569:
1567:
1136:. "All American: A Sportswear Tradition". In
661:, whose 1980s fashionable garments made from
8:
2721:Timeline of clothing and textiles technology
2203:, September 12, 2011. Accessed 16 March 2012
1993:"Fashion Czars Flirting with Lowered Waists"
1903:
1901:
1645:
1643:
1641:
1639:
1637:
1635:
1633:
1631:
1629:
1627:
1625:
1623:
1621:
1619:
1617:
1615:
1153:
1151:
833:American sportswear for fall-winter 2010 by
1613:
1611:
1609:
1607:
1605:
1603:
1601:
1599:
1597:
1595:
1550:(2nd ed.). New York: Greenwich House.
1298:. Princeton University Press. p. 267.
939:revived the fortunes of her family company
627:During the 1970s, Lauren, Calvin Klein and
3581:
3567:
3559:
3083:
2958:
2606:
2592:
2584:
2535:Bianchini, Roger-Louis (1 November 2001).
2373:
2371:
2020:Isabel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out
1999:. 14 January 1960. p. 13 – via
1387:
1385:
1383:
1381:
1379:
1377:
1339:American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s-1970s
2411:. New York: R.R. Bowker Co. p. 224.
2122:
2120:
2044:
2042:
2040:
2017:Steele, Valerie; Mears, Patricia (2009).
1982:(October 2006) Accessed February 18, 2012
1128:
1071:. V&A Publications, London. pp.
2561:, 4 October 2011. Accessed 16 March 2012
2293:Missonologia : the world of Missoni
2265:"Ottavio Missoni Bio, Stats and Results"
1884:. London: I. B. Tauris. pp. 47–48.
1273:. London: I. B. Tauris. pp. 23–29.
1126:
1124:
1122:
1120:
1118:
1116:
1114:
1112:
1110:
1108:
935:in 1997, but moved to New York in 2001.
153:
2167:
2165:
2083:Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look To Now
1740:
1738:
1736:
1523:Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look To Now
1010:
922:Order of the Star of Italian Solidarity
897:, himself an athlete, and his teammate
793:
2511:
2509:
2076:
2074:
2072:
2023:. Yale University Press. p. 109.
1952:O'Neill, William L. (September 2002).
1772:Schiro, Anne-marie (11 January 1999).
1021:Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988).
960:opened in the London department store
158:Pre-sportswear tailormade by Redfern.
3953:History of clothing (Western fashion)
2246:
2244:
2242:
2109:(1981). "Recession dressing (1974)".
1829:
1827:
1695:
1693:
1516:
1514:
1494:
1492:
1333:
1331:
1329:
1327:
1325:
1323:
1321:
1319:
1317:
1315:
1060:
1058:
1056:
1054:
1052:
1050:
1048:
1046:
1044:
1042:
1016:
1014:
7:
2864:Social media in the fashion industry
1659:All-American: A Sportswear Tradition
1194:
1192:
1190:
1188:
1142:All-American: A Sportswear Tradition
252:While 1920s Paris designers offered
2290:Isa Tutino Vercelloni, ed. (1995).
1499:Robinson, Rebecca J. (2003-01-01).
1450:"Sportswear: An American Invention"
2321:. London: Black Dog. p. 176.
2267:. Sports Reference. Archived from
2186:, Lifestyle Monitor, 23 March 2000
2153:Biography of Bill Blass (from the
2127:Menkes, Suzy (28 September 1993).
1653:. "Sportswear for Everywhere". In
14:
2378:Perso Heinemann, Barbara (2008).
1023:Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion
665:fabric were highly influential;
463:, was ultimately held up against
3541:
2706:History of clothing and textiles
2687:
2465:. St. James Press. p. 651.
826:
796:
706:Relaxed easy-wear sportswear by
2639:Environmental impact of fashion
2356:from the original on 2022-05-24
2049:Times Staff (6 February 2000).
1834:Diliberto, Gioia (2009-11-09).
1728:"Popover" dress (C.I.45.71.2ab)
1678:. Smithsonian Institution. 2002
84:Fashion Institute of Technology
2516:Staff writer (8 August 1976).
1548:Fashion, the mirror of history
1231:V&A Search the Collections
901:had an activewear business in
1:
2342:Watson, Linda (10 May 2013).
1448:Lockwood, Lisa (2012-09-08).
876:, the outspoken publisher of
215:
1935:"What is the American Look?"
1351:Staff writer (August 1932).
1227:"Walking costume by Redfern"
150:History of sportswear design
1933:Lewis, Nina (21 May 1945).
1798:Skarda, Erin (2012-04-02).
1392:Stewart, Mary Lynn (2008).
1353:"The Dressmakers of France"
924:by the Italian government.
308:to dress herself without a
106:in 1998, was introduced by
55:to dress herself without a
3989:
2711:History of Western fashion
2578:Victoria and Albert Museum
2522:Amarillo Sunday News Globe
911:1948 Italian Olympics team
755:Victoria and Albert Museum
438:Alongside Dorothy Shaver,
104:Metropolitan Museum of Art
18:
3536:
2716:History of fashion design
2685:
2625:Index of fashion articles
2622:
2537:"Une affaire de familles"
2405:Lambert, Eleanor (1976).
1912:. Duke University Press.
1706:. Duke University Press.
1065:Stanfill, Sonnet (2007).
846:Outside the United States
548:, and the South American
69:history of fashion design
3096:British country clothing
2654:Fashion design copyright
2159:. Accessed 16 March 2012
2081:Steele, Valerie (1997).
1880:Arnold, Rebecca (2008).
1574:Arnold, Rebecca (2008).
1521:Steele, Valerie (1997).
810:became popular items of
389:representatives such as
3874:Other associated people
3771:Giorgio di Sant' Angelo
3455:Anti-sweatshop movement
2155:Encyclopædia Britannica
2004:(subscription required)
1475:. Rockport Publishers.
1161:(1998). "Foreword". In
1159:de Montebello, Philippe
698:21st century sportswear
285:Abercrombie & Fitch
3506:Chinoiserie in fashion
2201:The Saitama Sportswear
2197:"Custom Jerseys Maker"
711:
636:and Louis Dell'Olio).
504:, a fashion editor at
489:
325:
165:
108:Philippe de Montebello
31:
3781:Diane von FĂĽrstenberg
2842:Fashion merchandising
2317:Black, Sandy (2006).
1751:Fashion Encyclopaedia
1438:Cited by Arnold, p.24
1294:Clark, T. J. (1985).
839:New York Fashion Week
770:New York Fashion Week
710:, Spring-Summer 2014.
705:
483:
323:
212:Industrial Revolution
157:
29:
3963:21st-century fashion
3958:20th-century fashion
3948:Clothing by function
3907:Clothing terminology
3817:sportswear designers
3599:sportswear designers
3417:South Korean fashion
2879:Trickle-down fashion
2817:Fashion illustration
2802:Fashion entrepreneur
2679:Semiotics of fashion
2463:Contemporary Fashion
2195:Saitama Sportswear.
1997:The Pittsburgh Press
978:2012 Summer Olympics
955:-based design label
761:exhibition in 2007.
759:New York Fashion Now
691:Mary Jane Marcasiano
225:), and before that,
3917:History of clothing
3590:American sportswear
3465:Sustainable fashion
3432:Vietnamese clothing
2963:Western dress codes
2837:Fashion photography
2812:Fashion forecasting
1840:The Huffington Post
724:Cotton Incorporated
3548:Fashion portal
3496:Ballet and fashion
3480:Zero-waste fashion
3196:Sportswear fashion
2874:Trickle-up fashion
2859:Red carpet fashion
2827:Fashion journalism
2822:Fashion influencer
2518:"Fashions to Show"
2499:(Original article
2133:The New York Times
1778:The New York Times
1726:Claire McCardell:
1098:. Dictionary.com.
879:Women's Wear Daily
870:Simonetta Visconti
712:
490:
326:
166:
32:
3943:Clothing industry
3925:
3924:
3902:The American Look
3616:Louella Ballerino
3556:
3555:
3523:Music and fashion
3333:
3332:
3283:Thrift store chic
3111:Cruise collection
3073:
3072:
2998:Black lounge suit
2782:Designer clothing
2777:Clothing industry
2644:Fashion accessory
2489:(28 March 1972).
2487:Adburgham, Alison
2472:978-1-55862-348-4
2250:da Cruz, Elyssa.
2055:Los Angeles Times
1941:. pp. 87–91.
1337:Martin, Richard,
1082:978-1-85177-499-9
929:Narciso Rodriguez
899:Giorgio Oberweger
766:Monique Lhuillier
716:Lifestyle Monitor
407:capsule wardrobes
395:Lord & Taylor
306:emancipated woman
140:Lord & Taylor
53:emancipated woman
3980:
3938:American fashion
3844:Behnaz Sarafpour
3839:Proenza Schouler
3776:Carolyn Schnurer
3751:Claire McCardell
3583:
3576:
3569:
3560:
3546:
3545:
3544:
3501:Capsule wardrobe
3460:Circular fashion
3442:Fashion activism
3407:Nigerian fashion
3402:Japanese fashion
3360:Filipino fashion
3350:Canadian fashion
3345:American fashion
3084:
2959:
2691:
2608:
2601:
2594:
2585:
2562:
2553:Chetty, Derick.
2551:
2545:
2544:
2532:
2526:
2525:
2513:
2504:
2498:
2483:
2477:
2476:
2458:
2452:
2451:
2446:
2444:
2437:Vineyard Gazette
2429:
2423:
2422:
2402:
2396:
2395:
2375:
2366:
2365:
2363:
2361:
2347:
2339:
2333:
2332:
2314:
2308:
2307:
2287:
2281:
2280:
2278:
2276:
2271:on 18 April 2020
2261:
2255:
2248:
2237:
2236:
2220:
2210:
2204:
2193:
2187:
2181:
2175:
2169:
2160:
2150:
2144:
2143:
2141:
2139:
2124:
2115:
2114:
2103:
2097:
2096:
2078:
2067:
2066:
2064:
2062:
2046:
2035:
2034:
2014:
2008:
2007:
2005:
1989:
1983:
1976:
1970:
1969:
1958:. Cengage Gale.
1949:
1943:
1942:
1930:
1924:
1923:
1905:
1896:
1895:
1877:
1871:
1870:
1868:
1867:
1856:
1850:
1849:
1847:
1846:
1831:
1822:
1821:
1819:
1818:
1795:
1789:
1788:
1786:
1784:
1769:
1763:
1762:
1760:
1758:
1742:
1731:
1724:
1718:
1717:
1697:
1688:
1687:
1685:
1683:
1677:
1669:
1663:
1662:
1647:
1590:
1589:
1571:
1562:
1561:
1543:
1537:
1536:
1518:
1509:
1508:
1496:
1487:
1486:
1466:
1460:
1459:
1457:
1456:
1445:
1439:
1437:
1429:
1423:
1416:
1410:
1409:
1389:
1372:
1371:
1369:
1367:
1357:
1348:
1342:
1335:
1310:
1309:
1291:
1285:
1284:
1266:
1243:
1242:
1240:
1238:
1233:. V&A Museum
1223:
1217:
1216:
1196:
1183:
1182:
1155:
1146:
1145:
1130:
1103:
1093:
1087:
1086:
1068:New York Fashion
1062:
1037:
1036:
1018:
974:Stella McCartney
830:
800:
751:Behnaz Sarafpour
739:Proenza Schouler
387:department store
342:fabrics such as
339:Claire McCardell
314:Great Depression
224:
220:
217:
129:Claire McCardell
73:spectator sports
3988:
3987:
3983:
3982:
3981:
3979:
3978:
3977:
3968:Italian fashion
3928:
3927:
3926:
3921:
3890:
3869:
3860:Popover (dress)
3853:Notable designs
3848:
3816:
3810:
3691:Elizabeth Hawes
3646:Jeanne Campbell
3641:Stephen Burrows
3598:
3592:
3587:
3557:
3552:
3542:
3540:
3532:
3484:
3436:
3422:Swedish fashion
3412:Russian fashion
3390:Italian fashion
3385:Israeli fashion
3380:Iranian fashion
3355:Chinese fashion
3329:
3224:
3220:Vintage fashion
3208:Ghetto fabulous
3147:
3101:Business casual
3069:
3036:
2957:
2889:
2883:
2797:Fashion capital
2787:Digital fashion
2758:
2735:
2692:
2683:
2674:Fashion tourism
2627:
2618:
2612:
2574:Sportswear Chic
2570:
2565:
2552:
2548:
2534:
2533:
2529:
2515:
2514:
2507:
2485:
2484:
2480:
2473:
2460:
2459:
2455:
2442:
2440:
2439:. 7 August 2008
2431:
2430:
2426:
2419:
2404:
2403:
2399:
2392:
2377:
2376:
2369:
2359:
2357:
2350:The Independent
2341:
2340:
2336:
2329:
2316:
2315:
2311:
2304:
2289:
2288:
2284:
2274:
2272:
2263:
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2258:
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2240:
2233:
2212:
2211:
2207:
2194:
2190:
2182:
2178:
2170:
2163:
2151:
2147:
2137:
2135:
2126:
2125:
2118:
2107:Fraser, Kennedy
2105:
2104:
2100:
2093:
2080:
2079:
2070:
2060:
2058:
2048:
2047:
2038:
2031:
2016:
2015:
2011:
2003:
1991:
1990:
1986:
1977:
1973:
1966:
1951:
1950:
1946:
1932:
1931:
1927:
1920:
1907:
1906:
1899:
1892:
1879:
1878:
1874:
1865:
1863:
1858:
1857:
1853:
1844:
1842:
1833:
1832:
1825:
1816:
1814:
1797:
1796:
1792:
1782:
1780:
1771:
1770:
1766:
1756:
1754:
1747:"American Look"
1744:
1743:
1734:
1725:
1721:
1714:
1699:
1698:
1691:
1681:
1679:
1675:
1671:
1670:
1666:
1655:Martin, Richard
1649:
1648:
1593:
1586:
1573:
1572:
1565:
1558:
1545:
1544:
1540:
1533:
1520:
1519:
1512:
1498:
1497:
1490:
1483:
1468:
1467:
1463:
1454:
1452:
1447:
1446:
1442:
1431:
1430:
1426:
1417:
1413:
1406:
1391:
1390:
1375:
1365:
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1355:
1350:
1349:
1345:
1336:
1313:
1306:
1293:
1292:
1288:
1281:
1268:
1267:
1246:
1236:
1234:
1225:
1224:
1220:
1213:
1198:
1197:
1186:
1179:
1163:Martin, Richard
1157:
1156:
1149:
1138:Martin, Richard
1132:
1131:
1106:
1094:
1090:
1083:
1064:
1063:
1040:
1033:
1020:
1019:
1012:
1008:
995:Fitness culture
986:
970:
949:
895:Ottavio Missoni
853:
848:
841:
831:
822:
812:hip-hop fashion
801:
700:
610:Stephen Burrows
597:
566:Double knitting
478:
465:white standards
446:Harper's Bazaar
440:Eleanor Lambert
416:ballet slippers
412:Popover dresses
355:Elizabeth Hawes
331:
275:Harper's Bazaar
262:Suzanne Lenglen
250:
241:La Grande Jatte
227:Puritan America
222:
218:
171:
152:
117:Pauline Trigère
65:
59:'s assistance.
24:
17:
12:
11:
5:
3986:
3984:
3976:
3975:
3970:
3965:
3960:
3955:
3950:
3945:
3940:
3930:
3929:
3923:
3922:
3920:
3919:
3914:
3909:
3904:
3898:
3896:
3892:
3891:
3889:
3888:
3886:Dorothy Shaver
3883:
3881:Richard Martin
3877:
3875:
3871:
3870:
3868:
3867:
3862:
3856:
3854:
3850:
3849:
3847:
3846:
3841:
3836:
3831:
3826:
3820:
3818:
3812:
3811:
3809:
3808:
3803:
3798:
3793:
3788:
3783:
3778:
3773:
3768:
3763:
3758:
3753:
3748:
3743:
3738:
3733:
3728:
3723:
3718:
3713:
3708:
3703:
3698:
3696:Tommy Hilfiger
3693:
3688:
3683:
3681:Rudi Gernreich
3678:
3673:
3668:
3663:
3658:
3653:
3648:
3643:
3638:
3633:
3628:
3626:Geoffrey Beene
3623:
3618:
3613:
3608:
3602:
3600:
3594:
3593:
3588:
3586:
3585:
3578:
3571:
3563:
3554:
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718:, an American
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676:In the 1970s,
645:Tommy Hilfiger
601:Kennedy Fraser
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558:Rudi Gernreich
502:Sally Kirkland
494:Christian Dior
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1753:. Advameg Inc
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772:, Fall 2011.
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714:In 2000, the
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683:
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668:
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575:
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534:Bonnie Cashin
531:
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498:American look
495:
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436:
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428:Norman Norell
425:
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164:, April 1914.
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133:Emily Wilkens
130:
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121:Charles James
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113:Norman Norell
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49:American Look
45:
44:haute couture
41:
36:
28:
22:
3815:21st century
3761:Clare Potter
3746:Vera Maxwell
3736:Ralph Lauren
3731:Michael Kors
3726:Calvin Klein
3706:Norma Kamali
3671:Anne Fogarty
3656:Kenneth Cole
3631:Tom Brigance
3621:Jhane Barnes
3597:20th century
3589:
3470:Slow fashion
3450:Anti-fashion
3427:Thai fashion
3195:
3088:Smart casual
3008:Evening gown
2847:Fast fashion
2792:Fashion blog
2754:Fashion week
2749:Fashion show
2731:21st century
2726:19th century
2558:
2549:
2543:(in French).
2540:
2530:
2521:
2495:The Guardian
2494:
2481:
2462:
2456:
2448:
2441:. Retrieved
2436:
2427:
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2269:the original
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2054:
2019:
2012:
1996:
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1954:
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1862:. 2016-04-15
1854:
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1359:
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1230:
1221:
1205:. ABC-CLIO.
1201:
1167:
1141:
1099:
1096:"Sportswear"
1091:
1067:
1022:
971:
950:
926:
915:
905:making wool
892:
882:opined that
877:
866:Emilio Pucci
854:
774:
763:
758:
732:
715:
713:
708:Michael Kors
675:
659:Norma Kamali
637:
626:
622:Ralph Lauren
618:Jhane Barnes
614:Calvin Klein
612:. Alongside
598:
582:
563:
530:Anne Fogarty
527:
522:
511:
505:
491:
468:
457:
450:
444:
437:
404:
383:
371:Tom Brigance
367:Vera Maxwell
352:
335:Clare Potter
332:
302:
288:
281:
279:sportswear.
273:
251:
240:
234:
209:
184:John Redfern
172:
159:
137:
96:working week
88:middle-class
78:The curator
77:
66:
48:
34:
33:
3716:Muriel King
3711:Donna Karan
3701:Marc Jacobs
3666:Perry Ellis
3308:Heavy metal
3230:Alternative
3213:Bling-bling
3143:Young fogey
2993:Semi-formal
2888:Traditional
2832:Fashion law
2541:LExpress.fr
2443:24 February
1757:17 November
1366:19 November
1362:. Time, Inc
990:Casual wear
835:Phillip Lim
728:active wear
667:Marc Jacobs
654:Suzy Menkes
634:Donna Karan
629:Perry Ellis
554:dog leashes
420:Ben Sommers
294:resort wear
270:Coco Chanel
223: 1860
219: 1760
3973:Sportswear
3932:Categories
3865:Wrap dress
3791:John Weitz
3741:Tina Leser
3721:Anne Klein
3511:Dress code
3338:By country
3323:Rockabilly
3186:Athleisure
3181:Sportswear
3161:Streetwear
3138:Teddy Boys
3121:Ivy League
2907:Diplomatic
2897:Ceremonial
2328:1904772412
2303:0789200481
1866:2016-07-07
1845:2016-07-07
1817:2016-07-07
1455:2016-07-07
1006:References
1000:Athleisure
962:Selfridges
907:tracksuits
837:, seen at
808:tracksuits
789:yoga pants
785:tracksuits
682:Bill Blass
663:sweatshirt
585:Anne Klein
433:sidesaddle
400:Merry Hull
379:John Weitz
363:Tina Leser
266:Jean Patou
258:Jane RĂ©gny
221: – c.
204:shirtwaist
198:, and did
142:executive
125:Mainbocher
63:Definition
40:activewear
35:Sportswear
21:Sportswear
3834:Zac Posen
3829:Mary Ping
3824:Derek Lam
3786:Vera Wang
3278:Steampunk
3238:Androgyny
3050:Christian
3042:Religious
3003:Black tie
2986:Ball gown
2981:White tie
2869:Sweatshop
1812:0040-781X
1745:Unknown.
814:from the
775:In 2012,
747:Derek Lam
743:Mary Ping
735:Zac Posen
722:owned by
595:1970–2000
476:1946–1970
418:(made by
329:1930–1945
233:painting
190:, played
92:democracy
3895:See also
3676:Tom Ford
3489:See also
3475:Trashion
3273:Skinhead
3243:Bohemian
3201:Surfwear
3191:Gorpcore
3030:Pantsuit
3015:Informal
2919:Military
2912:Academic
2890:clothing
2852:in China
2764:Industry
2617:articles
2580:website.
2559:The Star
2354:Archived
2113:. Knopf.
2061:20 March
1783:20 March
1237:24 March
984:See also
957:Tiktiner
918:Goldworm
777:Tim Gunn
639:Newsweek
518:bias-cut
207:jacket.
196:yachting
176:bloomers
169:Pre-1920
3912:Fashion
3686:Halston
3516:Undress
3395:History
3293:Greaser
3176:Hipster
3166:Hip hop
3060:Islamic
2934:Service
2698:History
2632:General
2615:Fashion
2576:on the
2138:2 March
1682:July 7,
1657:(ed.).
1360:Fortune
1165:(ed.).
1140:(ed.).
903:Trieste
888:Missoni
818:to the
804:Hoodies
781:hoodies
589:Halston
570:T-shirt
424:Capezio
200:archery
194:, went
180:croquet
161:Bon Ton
100:leisure
3303:Grunge
3288:Rocker
3263:Lolita
3258:Gothic
3253:Fetish
3171:Hippie
3116:Preppy
3079:Casual
3055:Jewish
2971:Formal
2946:Combat
2939:Sailor
2772:Awards
2741:Events
2469:
2415:
2388:
2360:11 May
2325:
2300:
2275:11 May
2229:
2225:–212.
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2027:
1962:
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1529:
1479:
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1277:
1209:
1175:
1079:
1029:
947:France
884:Krizia
820:2010s.
749:, and
620:, and
574:Kasper
550:poncho
538:kimono
365:, and
348:jersey
298:skiing
192:tennis
135:were.
3806:Zoran
3318:Skate
3268:Queer
2902:Court
1676:(PDF)
1436:: 15.
1434:Vogue
1356:(PDF)
1073:28–49
941:Prada
933:Milan
851:Italy
816:1990s
649:Zoran
546:ikats
542:happi
507:Vogue
452:Vogue
344:denim
289:Vogue
248:1920s
3606:Adri
3313:Punk
3298:Glam
3106:Chic
3020:Suit
2953:Folk
2929:Mess
2924:Full
2501:here
2467:ISBN
2445:2014
2413:ISBN
2386:ISBN
2362:2013
2323:ISBN
2298:ISBN
2277:2013
2227:ISBN
2140:2015
2087:ISBN
2063:2017
2025:ISBN
1960:ISBN
1939:LIFE
1914:ISBN
1886:ISBN
1808:ISSN
1804:Time
1785:2017
1759:2015
1708:ISBN
1684:2016
1580:ISBN
1552:ISBN
1527:ISBN
1477:ISBN
1400:ISBN
1368:2015
1300:ISBN
1275:ISBN
1239:2017
1207:ISBN
1173:ISBN
1077:ISBN
1027:ISBN
868:and
861:Fath
859:and
857:Dior
806:and
608:and
587:and
540:and
523:LIFE
513:LIFE
510:and
486:TIME
469:LIFE
449:and
377:and
337:and
310:maid
188:rode
123:and
57:maid
3248:Emo
3128:Mod
2223:205
1505:ETD
757:'s
580:).
422:of
393:of
287:in
131:or
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2557:,
2539:.
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