Knowledge (XXG)

1100–1200 in European fashion

Source 📝

508: 31: 532: 544: 520: 630: 666: 352: 94: 642: 654: 556: 216: 364: 1094: 207:, a long outer tunic with full skirts from the hip and sleeves that fitted tightly to the elbow and then flared into a trumpet shape. Early bliauts were moderately fitted and bloused slightly over the belt at the waist. Later the bliaut was fitted tightly to the body from shoulder to hip, and the belt, or girdle was wrapped twice around the waist and knotted in front of the abdomen. 568: 274:
Over the undertunic and hose, men wore an outer tunic that reached to the knees or ankles, and that was fastened at the waist with a belt. Fitted bliauts, of wool or, increasingly, silk, had sleeves that were cut wide at the wrist and gored skirts. Men wore bliauts open to the waist front and back
340: 257:
During this period, beginning with the middle and upper classes, hose became longer and more fitting, and they reached above the knees. Previously, they were looser and worn with drawers that ranged from knee- to ankle-length. The new type of hose were worn with drawers that reached the knees or
408: 485:
Married women, in keeping with Christian custom, wore veils over their hair, which was often parted in the center and hung down in long braids that might be extended with false hair or purchased hair from the dead, a habit decried by moralists.
1342: 261:
The better fit and girdle attachment of these new hose eliminated the need for the leg bands often worn with earlier hose. In England, however, leg bands continued to be worn by some people, both rich and poor, right up to the reign of
450:
had a flaring skirt and sleeves tight to the elbow and then widening to wrist in a trumpet shape. A bliaut apparently cut in one piece from neckline to hem depicted on a column figure of a woman at the Cathedral of St. Maurice at
137:
undergarments, which were more comfortable against the skin and could be washed and then bleached in the sun, were increasingly worn. Silk, although extremely expensive, was readily available to wealthy people of consequence.
582:
wears a bliaut cut in one piece from neck to hem and laced at the sides, over a chemise with tight sleeves. Overall she wears a mantle tied with a double cord. Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d'Angers, between 1130 and
579: 101:
or form-fitting outer tunic with full skirts and wide sleeves over long blue hose. The garment worn underneath the bliaut has striped sleeves. His belt wraps around the waist and is knotted in front.
990: 589:
has a finely pleated skirt attached to a decorative waistband at hip level. The bliaut is worn with a knotted girdle or cincture, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres, between 1130 and 1160.
611:. The woman on the left wears a veil and mantle. The young woman on the right wears her hair uncovered, and her bliaut sleeves are wide at the wrist as seen in English fashion c. 1170. 496:
was introduced in England late in the century. It consisted of a linen cloth that covered the throat (and often the chin as well), and that was fastened about the head, under the veil.
1419: 328:
tied under the chin appeared very late in the century. Small round or slightly conical caps with rolled brims were worn, and straw hats were worn for outdoor work in summer.
592: 110:
As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side for men: a short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of the everyday dress of the later
598: 586: 258:
above, and they were wide enough at the top to allow the drawers to be tucked into them. They were held up in place by being attached to the girdle of the drawers.
1521: 1437: 983: 677: 999: 695: 381: 683: 45:, 1115. The Emperor and the countess wear robes and mantles trimmed with bands of gold embroidery. The countess wears a linen veil draped over her hair. 1452: 976: 817:
Snyder, Janet, "From Content to Form: Court Clothing in Mid-Twelfth-Century Northern French Sculpture", in Désirée Koslin and Janet E. Snyder, eds.:
507: 604: 30: 689: 324:
in the form of hood and attached shoulder-length cape was worn during this period, especially by the rural lower classes, and the fitted linen
958: 1036: 387: 1526: 1126: 519: 1214: 1209: 1171: 1166: 1161: 665: 543: 54: 932: 900: 826: 167: 1357: 1352: 1244: 1239: 1234: 1229: 1224: 1219: 531: 1041: 1012: 963: 881: 653: 189:
illustrations, where it is shown as a white and blue-grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining the mantles of the wealthy.
629: 489:
During the Middle Ages hair was charged with cultural meaning. Hair could be used to convey messages of social differentiation.
394:(d. 1151) depicts him in a calf-length overtunic and long undertunic, with a blue mantle lined in vair. He wears a cap with his 1531: 375: 477:
In England, the fashionable dress was wide at the wrist but without the trumpet-shaped flare from the elbow seen in France.
351: 1516: 1151: 1028: 641: 363: 50: 555: 312:
Rectangular and circular cloaks were worn over the tunic. These fastened on the right shoulder or at the center front.
38: 339: 1131: 1121: 53:, starting to become tighter and more similar for men and women as the century went on, which would continue in the 1464: 1442: 1073: 470:) that looped around a slightly raised waist and was knotted over the abdomen; the cincture could have decorative 1490: 1143: 1058: 1017: 306: 1459: 1347: 1324: 1319: 1307: 1302: 1297: 1292: 1287: 1282: 1277: 1256: 1078: 118:, and a long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of the Roman upper classes and influenced by 1051: 890: 301:
was introduced during this period as protective covering for armour (especially against the sun) during the
411:
Figure of Grammatica showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of the later 12th century, from the
93: 1136: 595:
worn with the bliaut gironé at Chartres. The waistband of the skirt can be seen above the knotted girdle.
186: 49:
Twelfth century European fashion was simple in cut and differed only in details from the clothing of the
1480: 692:
wear short tunics and chausses. The man on the left wears a hood over a linen coif, Normandy, c. 1180
614: 254:, made as separate garments for each leg, were often worn with the tunic; striped hose were popular. 567: 215: 1495: 1193: 321: 115: 225:
shows the twins in knee-length tunics over chausses and shoes with pointed toes. England, c. 1170
1485: 1188: 279: 42: 436:, over which was worn one or more ankle-to-floor length tunics (also called gowns or kirtles). 407: 1447: 1272: 1108: 1083: 1068: 928: 896: 885: 822: 459:, arose in mid-century: this dress is cut in two pieces, a fitted upper portion with a finely 412: 391: 221: 66: 959:
12th- and 13th-century clothing (including illustration of 12th-century hose and attachments)
17: 1414: 1409: 1404: 1388: 1383: 1378: 1373: 1249: 1183: 848: 278:
Newly fashionable were short, fitted garments for the upper body, worn under the tunic: the
1113: 251: 178: 119: 62: 384:
wears a cap with a rolled brim and a tunic with wide turned-back cuffs, England, c. 1170.
1093: 686:
has tucked up his long tunic, which he wears with chausses and ankle-high shoes, c. 1170
1063: 1510: 1314: 171: 34: 455:
has visible side-lacing and is belted at the natural waistline. A new fashion, the
968: 395: 174:
had opened additional routes for Eastern fabrics and style influences into Europe.
111: 378:
is portrayed in a long tunic with tight sleeves and a mantle, late 12th century.
466:
The fitted bliaut was sometimes worn with a long belt or cincture (in French,
439:
Working-class women wore their tunics ankle-length and belted at the waist.
263: 185:, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly popular and can be seen in many 155: 143: 302: 243: 61:
for most activities, and men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with
853: 840: 446:
or the form-fitting bliaut over a full chemise with tight sleeves. The
425: 294: 282:, made of two layers of linen, and an early form of quilted and padded 82: 946:
History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century
784:
History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century
1178: 617:, sitting on the far left, wears a veil that covers most of her body. 493: 471: 452: 447: 199: 159: 151: 78: 70: 58: 925:
Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, texts, and Images
819:
Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, texts, and Images
964:
List of passages in the Icelandic Sagas where clothing is mentioned
948:, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS 85:
were characteristic of upper-class fashion for both men and women.
1046: 698:. The man on the right wears braies and a coif, Normandy, c. 1180 460: 433: 406: 214: 163: 147: 134: 92: 74: 29: 601:
in a long bliaut with straight sleeves and a linen veil, c. 1170.
325: 182: 139: 130: 972: 442:
Women of the French court wore a loosely fitted tunic called a
133:
remained the primary fabric for clothing of all classes, while
680:. The man on the right works in linen braies, c. 1170 424:
Women's clothing consisted of an undertunic called a
309:, it would become widely adopted as civilian dress. 238:) or shirt with long, tight sleeves, and drawers or 197:
A new French fashion for both men and women was the
1473: 1430: 1397: 1366: 1335: 1265: 1202: 1101: 1027: 166:. In the last decade of the previous century, the 320:Men of the upper classes often went hatless. The 234:Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic (French 895:(Expanded ed.). New York: Harry N. Abrams. 893:: the History of Costume and Personal Adornment 984: 8: 923:Koslin, Désirée and Janet E. Snyder, eds.: 742: 740: 266:. After 1200, they were largely abandoned. 991: 977: 969: 939:The Concise History of Costume and Fashion 920:. 15th edition. Volume 17. 1994, 478–528. 911:Historical Costumes of England: 1066–1968 852: 726: 724: 722: 720: 718: 716: 714: 712: 813: 811: 809: 807: 805: 803: 801: 778: 776: 774: 772: 770: 708: 625: 503: 335: 1522:History of clothing (Western fashion) 7: 1037:Prehistory of nakedness and clothing 463:skirt attached to a low waistband. 242:, usually of linen. Tailored cloth 25: 734:, Harry Abrams, 1966, pp. 164–172 114:and the short tunics worn by the 1092: 1013:History of clothing and textiles 664: 652: 640: 628: 566: 554: 542: 530: 518: 506: 362: 350: 338: 77:. A close fit to the body, full 27:Clothing in the period 1100-1200 1420:impact of the COVID-19 pandemic 918:The New Encyclopædia Britannica 1: 18:1100-1200 in European fashion 593:Detail of the knotted girdle 73:. Women wore long tunics or 1336:1920s–1950s Western fashion 1266:1830s–1910s Western fashion 1203:1500s–1820s Western fashion 795:"Dress and Adornment", 489. 474:or metal tags at the ends. 230:Shirt, braies, and chausses 1548: 839:Knight, Kimberley (2016). 481:Hairstyles and headdresses 177:Fur was worn as an inside 1527:Medieval European costume 1090: 1018:History of fashion design 1007: 841:"Hair in the Middle Ages" 270:Outer tunics and doublets 168:Norman conquest of Sicily 1343:Suffrage Movement period 402: 345:1 – Richard I of England 210: 1002:of clothing and fashion 916:"Dress and Adornment." 891:20,000 Years of Fashion 732:20,000 Years of Fashion 615:Queen Leonor of England 57:. Men wore knee-length 1532:12th century in Europe 690:Men pruning grapevines 659:3 – Pruning grapevines 416: 275:or at the side seams. 226: 187:illuminated manuscript 102: 46: 1431:By country and region 696:Men harvesting grapes 671:4 – Harvesting grapes 432:or smock, usually of 410: 376:Richard the Lionheart 369:3 – Geoffrey of Anjou 218: 96: 33: 1517:12th-century fashion 1398:2000–present fashion 913:. 3rd Edition. 1970. 845:Internet Archaeology 35:Hugh, Abbot of Cluny 1438:Indian subcontinent 1367:1960s-1990s fashion 927:, Macmillan, 2002, 854:10.11141/ia.42.6.10 821:, Macmillan, 2002, 730:Boucher, François: 573:6 – Iberian royalty 116:invading barbarians 81:, and long flaring 51:preceding centuries 909:Bradfield, Nancy. 417: 227: 219:"Gemini" from the 103: 47: 43:Matilda of Tuscany 1504: 1503: 886:Yvonne Deslandres 609:Hunterian Psalter 525:2 – Bliaut gironé 420:Chemise and tunic 413:Hortus Deliciarum 392:Geoffrey of Anjou 222:Hunterian Psalter 154:, and silks from 16:(Redirected from 1539: 1250:Directoire style 1096: 993: 986: 979: 970: 944:Payne, Blanche: 906: 882:François Boucher 868: 865: 859: 858: 856: 836: 830: 815: 796: 793: 787: 782:Payne, Blanche: 780: 765: 762: 756: 753: 747: 744: 735: 728: 668: 656: 644: 632: 570: 558: 549:4 – Eve spinning 546: 534: 522: 510: 403:Women's clothing 366: 354: 342: 126:Fabrics and furs 97:Warrior wears a 39:Emperor Henry IV 21: 1547: 1546: 1542: 1541: 1540: 1538: 1537: 1536: 1507: 1506: 1505: 1500: 1469: 1426: 1393: 1362: 1331: 1261: 1198: 1097: 1088: 1023: 1022: 1003: 997: 955: 903: 880: 877: 872: 871: 866: 862: 838: 837: 833: 816: 799: 794: 790: 781: 768: 763: 759: 754: 750: 745: 738: 729: 710: 705: 672: 669: 660: 657: 648: 645: 636: 633: 624: 622:Working clothes 574: 571: 562: 559: 550: 547: 538: 535: 526: 523: 514: 511: 502: 483: 422: 405: 370: 367: 358: 355: 346: 343: 334: 318: 293:The sleeveless 272: 232: 213: 195: 146:were traded in 128: 120:Byzantine dress 108: 91: 41:, and Countess 28: 23: 22: 15: 12: 11: 5: 1545: 1543: 1535: 1534: 1529: 1524: 1519: 1509: 1508: 1502: 1501: 1499: 1498: 1493: 1488: 1483: 1477: 1475: 1471: 1470: 1468: 1467: 1462: 1457: 1456: 1455: 1445: 1440: 1434: 1432: 1428: 1427: 1425: 1424: 1423: 1422: 1412: 1407: 1401: 1399: 1395: 1394: 1392: 1391: 1386: 1381: 1376: 1370: 1368: 1364: 1363: 1361: 1360: 1355: 1350: 1345: 1339: 1337: 1333: 1332: 1330: 1329: 1328: 1327: 1322: 1312: 1311: 1310: 1305: 1300: 1295: 1290: 1285: 1280: 1269: 1267: 1263: 1262: 1260: 1259: 1254: 1253: 1252: 1242: 1237: 1232: 1227: 1222: 1217: 1212: 1206: 1204: 1200: 1199: 1197: 1196: 1191: 1186: 1181: 1176: 1175: 1174: 1169: 1164: 1159: 1154: 1146: 1141: 1140: 1139: 1134: 1129: 1124: 1116: 1111: 1105: 1103: 1099: 1098: 1091: 1089: 1087: 1086: 1081: 1076: 1071: 1066: 1061: 1056: 1055: 1054: 1049: 1039: 1033: 1031: 1025: 1024: 1021: 1020: 1015: 1009: 1008: 1005: 1004: 998: 996: 995: 988: 981: 973: 967: 966: 961: 954: 953:External links 951: 950: 949: 942: 941:, Abrams, 1979 937:Laver, James: 935: 921: 914: 907: 901: 876: 873: 870: 869: 867:Bradfield, 25. 860: 831: 797: 788: 766: 764:Bradfield, 27. 757: 755:Bradfield, 23. 748: 746:Bradfield, 19. 736: 707: 706: 704: 701: 700: 699: 693: 687: 681: 674: 673: 670: 663: 661: 658: 651: 649: 646: 639: 637: 634: 627: 623: 620: 619: 618: 612: 602: 596: 590: 584: 576: 575: 572: 565: 563: 560: 553: 551: 548: 541: 539: 536: 529: 527: 524: 517: 515: 512: 505: 501: 498: 482: 479: 421: 418: 404: 401: 400: 399: 385: 379: 372: 371: 368: 361: 359: 356: 349: 347: 344: 337: 333: 330: 317: 314: 271: 268: 231: 228: 212: 211:Men's clothing 209: 194: 191: 127: 124: 107: 104: 90: 89:General trends 87: 26: 24: 14: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1544: 1533: 1530: 1528: 1525: 1523: 1520: 1518: 1515: 1514: 1512: 1497: 1494: 1492: 1489: 1487: 1484: 1482: 1479: 1478: 1476: 1472: 1466: 1465:Western world 1463: 1461: 1458: 1454: 1451: 1450: 1449: 1446: 1444: 1441: 1439: 1436: 1435: 1433: 1429: 1421: 1418: 1417: 1416: 1413: 1411: 1408: 1406: 1403: 1402: 1400: 1396: 1390: 1387: 1385: 1382: 1380: 1377: 1375: 1372: 1371: 1369: 1365: 1359: 1356: 1354: 1351: 1349: 1346: 1344: 1341: 1340: 1338: 1334: 1326: 1323: 1321: 1318: 1317: 1316: 1313: 1309: 1306: 1304: 1301: 1299: 1296: 1294: 1291: 1289: 1286: 1284: 1281: 1279: 1276: 1275: 1274: 1271: 1270: 1268: 1264: 1258: 1255: 1251: 1248: 1247: 1246: 1243: 1241: 1238: 1236: 1233: 1231: 1228: 1226: 1223: 1221: 1218: 1216: 1213: 1211: 1208: 1207: 1205: 1201: 1195: 1192: 1190: 1187: 1185: 1182: 1180: 1177: 1173: 1170: 1168: 1165: 1163: 1160: 1158: 1155: 1153: 1150: 1149: 1147: 1145: 1142: 1138: 1135: 1133: 1130: 1128: 1125: 1123: 1120: 1119: 1117: 1115: 1112: 1110: 1107: 1106: 1104: 1100: 1095: 1085: 1082: 1080: 1077: 1075: 1072: 1070: 1067: 1065: 1062: 1060: 1057: 1053: 1050: 1048: 1045: 1044: 1043: 1040: 1038: 1035: 1034: 1032: 1030: 1026: 1019: 1016: 1014: 1011: 1010: 1006: 1001: 994: 989: 987: 982: 980: 975: 974: 971: 965: 962: 960: 957: 956: 952: 947: 943: 940: 936: 934: 933:0-312-29377-1 930: 926: 922: 919: 915: 912: 908: 904: 902:0-8109-1693-2 898: 894: 892: 887: 883: 879: 878: 874: 864: 861: 855: 850: 846: 842: 835: 832: 828: 827:0-312-29377-1 824: 820: 814: 812: 810: 808: 806: 804: 802: 798: 792: 789: 786:, pp. 159–168 785: 779: 777: 775: 773: 771: 767: 761: 758: 752: 749: 743: 741: 737: 733: 727: 725: 723: 721: 719: 717: 715: 713: 709: 702: 697: 694: 691: 688: 685: 682: 679: 676: 675: 667: 662: 655: 650: 643: 638: 635:1 – Haymaking 631: 626: 621: 616: 613: 610: 606: 603: 600: 597: 594: 591: 588: 587:Bliaut gironé 585: 581: 578: 577: 569: 564: 561:5 – Two women 557: 552: 545: 540: 533: 528: 521: 516: 509: 504: 500:Style gallery 499: 497: 495: 490: 487: 480: 478: 475: 473: 469: 464: 462: 458: 457:bliaut gironé 454: 449: 445: 440: 437: 435: 431: 427: 419: 414: 409: 397: 393: 389: 386: 383: 380: 377: 374: 373: 365: 360: 353: 348: 341: 336: 332:Style gallery 331: 329: 327: 323: 315: 313: 310: 308: 304: 300: 296: 291: 289: 285: 281: 276: 269: 267: 265: 259: 255: 253: 249: 245: 241: 237: 229: 224: 223: 217: 208: 206: 202: 201: 192: 190: 188: 184: 180: 175: 173: 172:First Crusade 169: 165: 161: 157: 153: 149: 145: 141: 136: 132: 125: 123: 121: 117: 113: 105: 100: 95: 88: 86: 84: 80: 76: 72: 68: 64: 60: 56: 52: 44: 40: 36: 32: 19: 1156: 945: 938: 924: 917: 910: 889: 863: 844: 834: 829:, pp. 85–101 818: 791: 783: 760: 751: 731: 608: 599:Eve spinning 491: 488: 484: 476: 467: 465: 456: 443: 441: 438: 429: 423: 396:coat of arms 382:Man feasting 357:2 – Feasting 319: 311: 307:next century 298: 292: 287: 283: 277: 273: 260: 256: 247: 239: 235: 233: 220: 204: 198: 196: 181:for warmth. 176: 129: 112:Roman Empire 109: 98: 55:13th century 48: 1474:By clothing 1137:Western Xia 1127:Jurchen Jin 1109:Anglo-Saxon 1102:Middle Ages 1047:Han Chinese 684:Man digging 647:2 – Digging 1511:Categories 1194:Vietnamese 1152:400s–1000s 875:References 678:Mowing hay 537:3 – Girdle 513:1 – Bliaut 193:The bliaut 150:by way of 1358:1945–1960 1353:1930–1945 1315:Edwardian 1273:Victorian 1245:1795–1820 1240:1775–1795 1235:1750–1775 1230:1700–1750 1225:1650–1700 1220:1600–1650 1215:1550–1600 1210:1500–1550 1189:Tocharian 1114:Byzantine 607:from the 605:Two women 415:, c. 1180 305:. By the 264:Richard I 156:Andalusia 144:Byzantium 1496:Swimwear 1460:Thailand 1118:Chinese 1084:Thracian 1069:Biblical 1059:Egyptian 1000:Timeline 888:(1987). 468:ceinture 388:Monument 322:chaperon 316:Headgear 303:Crusades 248:chausses 244:leggings 170:and the 158:reached 106:Overview 1184:Ottoman 1148:Europe 1144:English 1029:Ancient 472:tassels 461:pleated 430:chainse 426:chemise 295:surcoat 280:doublet 246:called 236:chainse 83:sleeves 1486:Corset 1481:Bikini 1179:Korean 931:  899:  847:(42). 825:  494:wimple 453:Angers 448:bliaut 299:cyclas 240:braies 205:bliaud 200:bliaut 179:lining 160:France 152:Venice 99:bliaut 79:skirts 71:cloaks 67:mantle 59:tunics 1453:Meiji 1448:Japan 1443:Italy 1415:2020s 1410:2010s 1405:2000s 1389:1990s 1384:1980s 1379:1970s 1374:1960s 1348:1920s 1325:1910s 1320:1900s 1308:1890s 1303:1880s 1298:1870s 1293:1860s 1288:1850s 1283:1840s 1278:1830s 1257:1820s 1172:1400s 1167:1300s 1162:1200s 1157:1100s 1079:Roman 1074:Greek 1064:Inuit 1042:China 703:Notes 583:1160. 580:Woman 444:cotte 434:linen 288:gipon 164:Spain 148:Pavia 142:from 140:Silks 135:linen 75:gowns 65:and 1491:Hide 1132:Yuan 1122:Liao 929:ISBN 897:ISBN 823:ISBN 492:The 326:coif 284:jupe 252:hose 183:Vair 162:via 131:Wool 63:hose 1052:Shu 849:doi 390:of 297:or 286:or 250:or 203:or 69:or 1513:: 884:; 843:. 800:^ 769:^ 739:^ 711:^ 428:, 290:. 122:. 37:, 992:e 985:t 978:v 905:. 857:. 851:: 398:. 20:)

Index

1100-1200 in European fashion

Hugh, Abbot of Cluny
Emperor Henry IV
Matilda of Tuscany
preceding centuries
13th century
tunics
hose
mantle
cloaks
gowns
skirts
sleeves

Roman Empire
invading barbarians
Byzantine dress
Wool
linen
Silks
Byzantium
Pavia
Venice
Andalusia
France
Spain
Norman conquest of Sicily
First Crusade
lining

Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.