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also is keen to impose on others the logic that "Whilst many writers quote as evidence of , most authoritative writers consider that he meant no more than he said" (p. 46). He throws this reasoning right out the window when the tables are turned, and confronted with a written account that very clearly describes the kilt and the plaid as separate garments, bends over backwards to label it "ambiguous" and to claim that it really could have referred to a belted plaid being misdescribed (pp. 41–42). In another place, he tries to dismiss an illustration as being of a
Dutchman just because the engraver of a Scotsman's map of Aberdeen was Dutch (p. 53). Dunbar is a giant in the field, but he's not infallible (he's been caught in an outright blunder, quoting an old Victorian source that had really obvious date errors in it, and he neither caught those errors nor noticed that the chosen source was misquoting an earlier one, badly; he thereby, despite being no fan of the "ancient clan tartans" legend, ended up helping to promote the myth of clan tartans dating back to at least 1782, when the complete evidence actually demonstrates nothing of the sort). Anyway, I've tried to give him his due at
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personally acquainted with him above 40 years ago. He was a man of genius and quick parts, and thought it no great stretch of invention to abridge the dress, and make it handy and convenient for his workmen: and accordingly directed the using of the lower part plaited of what is called the felie or kilt as above, and the upper part was set aside; and this piece of dress, so modelled as a diminutive of the former, was in the Gaelic termed felie-beg (beg in that tongue signifies little;) and in our Scots termed little kilt; and it was found so handy and convenient, that, in the shortest space. the use of it became frequent in all the
Highland countries, and in many of our northern Low Countries also. This is all I can say about the date and form of the felie-beg, and what was formerly used in place of it. And I certify from my own knowledge, that till I returned from Edinburgh to reside in this country in the year 1725, after serving seven or eight years with
921:. It should be noted that at the time of the magazine publications it was confirmed by "the two greatest authorities on Scottish custom of the time, Sir John Sinclair and John Pinkerton". It should also be noted that Rawlinson's business partner was Ian MacDonnell, head of the Glengarry MacDonnells, and the family support the testimony. So, "unsupported", clearly not. "Contentious", well yes, given that an Englishman was involved, but if the evidence supports such a thing it needs to be accepted despite instinctive feelings. "alleged" and "claimed", well this appears to be the result of a director of an American "museum" whose website appears to be mainly involved in sales.
1308:(On the other hand, I think Trevor-Roper is in agreement with nearly every modern writer on tartans that clan tartans date to around the beginning of the 19th century or late 18th at the earliest in a few cases. He's also right-on about the "Ossian" material being bogus. In re-reading his material, I find a pattern: He sticks to the scholarship when addressing the Ossian-inspired "Highlandism", and he does likewise when addressing the "ancient clan tartans" legend, but in the intervening material about the Rawlinson story, he goes in a completely different direction that is best characterized as activistic polemic. That's my honest evaluation of him as a source.)
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in it, or even that some later people didn't entirely believe it. You're even misrepresenting the Purser article as "claiming that the whole account was a myth invented by Hugh Trevor-Roper", which is not at all what it says. It's also an obvious fallacy to suppose that when writer A observes that writer B has taken an extremist position that aligns with their political career, that writer A is exhibiting an equal-but-opposite extremism. I'm not sure what point you're trying to make here, other than that you're a big fan of the
Rawlinson story.
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1166:(p. 265) says that idea of the short kilt "was attributed" to Rawlinson; i.e., he's repeating it as a story told, not as an ascertained fact. We need to see what other published works on Highland dress say on the matter. It's not our job as editors here to fight for uncritical presentation of ideas we like, or total suppression of ones we're suspicious of, but to make it clear to readers that the sources don't agree, when the sources don't agree.
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remainder of a damaged or worn plaid to make a shorter version... It also ignores the fact that the fèileadh-mòr or great plaid is named before this supposed invention. Why call it a "Great" or big plaid unless to differentiate it from the small version? Given the unsupported and contentious nature of this invention perhaps it would be better if the text was changed to read something along the lines of "alleged" or "claimed" to have invented?
1360:'great kilt', in material that pre-dates Rawlinson (even if we discount D. W. Stewart as trying too hard to interpret "petticoats" and other references as kilts). Note: Just found another (in William Brereton, 1634–35, quoted at length by Dunbar 1979 for other reasons, and the latter doesn't comment on it, despite going to some pains to dispell (by citation to McClintock) D. W. Stewart's claims earlier in the same book.)
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1461:, but the more I read and cite from more sources, the clearer it becomes that this is a long-running all-out debate that is in no way settled (e.g. Mackay (1924)'s evidence of Jacobite songs mentioning the philabeg c. 1715 doesn't appear to be addressed by anyone else, much less refuted, and the "refutations" to most of the rest are just as much bald-faced opinion on thin evidence as what they're trying to rebut.)
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by one Thomas
Rawlinson, an Englishman, who was overseer to a Company carrying on iron works in Glengarry's Country. The convenience of the dress soon caused it to be universally adopted in the Highlands. This circumstance is fully explained in a letter from Evan Baillie Esq. of Aberiachan, a gentleman of undoubted veracity, dated 1769, and inserted in the Edinburgh Magazine for 1785.
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accounts. The
National article finally goes off on a tangent claiming that the whole account was a myth invented by Hugh Trevor-Roper "mendacious for the specific purpose of denigrating Scottish culture and iconography immediately prior to the 1979 referendum" which tells us more about Purser's politics than about history.
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habit to men at work or travelling in a hurry, and the lower class could not afford the expence of the belted trowsers or breeches. They wore short coats, waistcoats and shirts of as great length as they could afford; and such parts as were not covered by thefe, remained naked to the tying of the garters on their hose.
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That article starts by talking about the 1746 – 1782 Disclothing Act. A bit irrelevant to an invention which occurred in the 1720s. Likewise the whole George IV/Sir Walter Scott section is simply anachronistic. We then get a section about some modern authors before getting back to the contemporary
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small kilt was invented (by
Rawlinson or otherwise) at Rawlinson's factory, though we have no evidence of this at all other than an assertion in a letter by an alleged friend of Rawlinson (published much later, seemingly timed to coincide with a debate about stripping the Highland regiments of their
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Criticising Purser's article for having poor chronological organisation is not an argument in favor of the
Rawlinson story. Nor is just repeating the Rawlinson story in great detail; no one suggests that the Rawlinson story didn't exist and or wasn't published, or that it didn't have detailed claims
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There is no evidence at all to support the filibeg-invention story in
Rawlinson's own copious detailed papers, and supporters of the story have shown a "mendacious" anti-Scottish bias. WP needs to stop reporting this story as if it were known fact (in any of these three articles), and present it as
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OED has "Apparently a borrowing from early
Scandinavian" as the origin and gives the etymology as "apparently of Scandinavian origin: compare Danish kilte (also kilte op) to tuck up..." and like the DSL cites Rolle in 1340. Gavin Douglas (Scottish bishop, makar and translator) has "Venus..With..Hir
1306:. He claims that there's no pictorial evidence of short kilts in paintings until 1747, but Innes of Learney (1939) pointed out one from 1661, and Mackay (1924) pointed out more from 1659 and 1673 (yes, they are open to interpretation but T-R's piece simply ignores them; his argument is incomplete).
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Note. – President Forbes's ideas regarding that part of the bill affecting the
Highland dress seem very just. The English Readers, and most of the Scotch, will be surprised to understand that the Kilt or Pheliebeg was not the antient Highland garb, but was introduced into the Highlands about 1720
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Further note on Dunbar (1979): Later on he does make some arguments partly on his own (pp. 53–54), mostly about a few particular illustrations. However, the further I get into his work, the more emotive he becomes about the question, using denigrating terms for the opposing side of the debate. He
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The upper garment of the Highlanders was the tartan or party-coloured plaid, termed in the Gaelic breccan when buckled round by a belt, and the lower part plaited and the upper loose about the shoulders. The dress was termed in the Gaelic felie, and in the Scots kilt. It was a cumbersome unwieldy
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About 50 years ago, one Thomas Rawlinson an Englishman, conducted an iron work carried on in the countries of Glengarie and Lochaber; be had a throng of Highlanders employed in the service, and became very fond of the Highland dress, and wore it in the neatest form; which I can aver, as I became
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The "invention" of the fèileadh-beag by Mr Rawlinson is supported by only one article in the Scots magazine, published anonymously, many years after his death, it has no other supporting evidence and requires us to believe that in the long period up to then, Highlanders had not thought to use the
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one of "the two greatest authorities on Scottish customs then living", but Pinkterton was a German-master-race theorist whose writings soundly condemn the Gaelic Scots as subhuman; he was even more mendaciously anti-Scottish than Trevor-Roper. The latter also claims that the Baillie letter has
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In other words (and in common with the OED) the DSL confirms that the verb to kilt is Middle English, first recorded around 1340. It doesn't seem to have found its way into Scotland until 1513. Though its earlier origin into England may well have been 'Scandinavian' its direct origin as far as
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The felie-beg is in its form and make somewhat similar to a woman’s petticoat, termed in the Gaelic boilicoat; but differs in this, that the former is not so long nor sewed in the fore-part, but made to overlap a little. The great felie or kilt was formed of the plaid double or twofold; the
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In answer to your inquiry, I do report, according to the best of my knowledge, and the intelligence of persons of credit and very advanced ages, that the piece of Highland dress, termed in the Gaelic felie-beg, and in our Scots little kilt, is rather of late than ancient
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Note — This Thomas Rawlinson, an Englishman, was the person who introduced the Phelie Beg, or short kilt, into the highlands. This fact, very little known, is explained by a Letter from Evan Baillie of Oberiachan, inserted in the Edinburgh Magazine for
777:, which is usually regarded as reliable. I do wonder if this would be more likely during training than in normal service. Incidentally, and possibly ireelevant, such mirrors are standard issue for police and army to look under vehicles.
1067:, I never saw the felie-beg used, nor heard any mention of such a piece of dress, not from my father, who was very intelligent and well known to Highlanders, and lived to the age of 83 years, and died in the year 1738, born in May 1655.
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suggests it was explicitly "intended to counter devolution moves by the Callaghan government" , but it is available at bargain-bin prices , so I may as well see whether his kilt polemic developed into something more substantial.
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Lachlan MacKinnon, native of Skye, flourished in the middle of the seventeeth century. ... In a satirical song ... 'Breacan' and 'Feile,' tartan plaid and kilt, are mentioned as the dress worn by the Highland chiefs of the poet's
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According to the Dictionary of the Scots Language and Oxford English Dictionary, the noun derives from a verb to kilt, originally meaning "to gird up; to tuck up (the skirts) round the body", which is apparently of Scandinavian
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Indeed. However this is not a kilt. It is a Knowledge (XXG) article discussing the kilt. As such its name is a reference to a Knowledge (XXG) article, not to a kilt. And the proper form for such an article name is "Kilt". --
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I agree that it has a distinct whiff about it. The idea that a senior officer would be so concerned about this, and walk about with an especially constructed mirror, seems laughably ridiculous and on-par with the scene in
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Do you think this article should be expanded to include unorthodox kilts and kilts in modern fashion? examples would include the "half-kilt" jackets with pleated tails, or jackets with "half-kilts" sewn in?
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I agree with the anon that the extant text does not really agree with the sources. There seems to be some original research here, like expanding the definition to 'to tuck up (the skirts) round the body'.
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Thompson references two sources: The Culloden Papers and the Edinburgh Magazine of 1785. The magazine article is not anonymous but is signed by Evan Baillie of Oberiachan. More detail is given at
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opens by labeling him a "polemicist".) The piece is extremely biased, right from its "Highlanders were just backward Irish castoffs" opening. Worse, it's drawing on trash sources. He cites the "
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As an English boy living in Scotland for my secondary education, I had it hammered into me that the proper reference to a kilt was always to be 'The Kilt'. Don't ask me why, I'm English!
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In the World War I, the regiment would be inspected by a senior officer who would have a mirror to look under kilts. Anyone found wearing underpants would be sent back to take them off.
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1196:. The sections at the other related articles should be edited to conform with this "Knowledge (XXG) isn't taking a side" cleanup, since the sources clearly conflict on the matter.
1158:(pp. 71, 74) label the Rawlinson story a "legend", and suggest that the workers themselves may have invented the short kilt (they seem to accept the invention location). Dunbar in
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In the interim, I'm going over Trevor-Roper's essay in detail. I think his critics are correct that he's "mendacious" and politically motivated in his anti-Scottish ranting. (And
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Another source to find; Hugh Cheape says this contains (among other things) some refutation or attempted refutation of Trevor-Roper "for the inadequacy of his research":
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1718:"The kilt", rather than "a kilt", is a literal translation from Gaelic use. It's rather an affectation to use it in English if you're not a Gaelic speaker. --
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14:13, 6 June 2023 (UTC) Further update: I have it, and am now reading it (but starting at the beginning, not Pittock's article mid-way through).
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Incidentally, the verb occurs in some Northumberland folk songs, chiefly as a means of preserving clothes when wading into the sea or a river.
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I've removed the sentence as dubious and disputed, and completely off-topic in the "design and construction" section in which it was placed.
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Why would these have been presented as separate garments if they were not separate garments? For my part, I think it's plausible that the
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1487:(2007). "A reply to Professor Colin Kidd on Lord Dacre's contribution to the study of Scottish history and the Scottish Enlightenment".
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To give him yet more due, Trevor-Roper's material was developed throughout the 1970s and early '80s, then published posthumously as:
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is terrible -- it's ascribed to a former soldier at a museum. Can we get better than this? It smells of legend.
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The Felie-beg, no part of the ancient Highland Dress.—Part of a Letter from Ivan Baillie of Abereachan, Esq;
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on Knowledge (XXG). If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join
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I have a copy of this on order, but it will take a while to get it, since it's shipping from UK to US.
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Source to get – Dunbar (1979) doesn't make any evidentiary arguments of his own, and just defers to:
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Culloden papers: comprising an extensive and interesting correspondence from the year 1625 to 1748
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There's already a section, "Contemporary designs", in which such information could be placed.
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The noun 'a kilt' appears to have been first recorded in 1746 in both Scotland and England.
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03:07, 12 July 2023 (UTC) Update: I have it now, and it's in my reading queue, but after
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Next on the reading list about this, said to be "a response to Trevor-Roper's thesis":
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I use f and not ph in spelling felie beg, as, in my esteem, more adapted to the Gaelic.
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12:02, 25 May 2023 (UTC) Update: I have this book on order, should get it this week.
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Pittock, Murray (2012). "Plaiding the invention of Scotland". In Brown, Ian (ed.).
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and related subjects on Knowledge (XXG). Please participate by editing the article
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I've used available sources to improve our most detailed section on this,
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What the Dictionary of the Scots Language actually says is:
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I don't think car bombs were much of an issue in WW1. --
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Knowledge (XXG) level-5 vital articles in Everyday life
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I was looking for something else, but ran across this:
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The Uniforms & History of the Scottish Regiments
944:"Was it really an Englishman who invented the kilt?"
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1721:Escape Orbit
1699:
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1643:, retrieved
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900:92.8.237.232
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794:Escape Orbit
774:
765:Escape Orbit
740:
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665:— Preceding
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587:project page
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19:This is the
1700:SMcCandlish
1624:Forbes 1815
1553:SMcCandlish
1503:SMcCandlish
1466:SMcCandlish
1438:SMcCandlish
1418:SMcCandlish
1395:SMcCandlish
1365:SMcCandlish
1314:SMcCandlish
1273:SMcCandlish
1257:SMcCandlish
1241:SMcCandlish
1201:SMcCandlish
1172:SMcCandlish
989:and later:
962:SMcCandlish
875:SMcCandlish
821:SMcCandlish
735:Inspection?
715:SMcCandlish
640:Word Origin
244:written in
148:free images
31:not a forum
1734:Categories
1680:Derek Ross
1658:The title.
1588:References
1497:: 183–198.
855:Sincerely
749:--jpgordon
1691:Yes; see
1626:, p. 289.
1524:(2014) .
775:The Times
739:We have,
302:is rated
259:travelled
88:if needed
71:Be polite
21:talk page
1664:Damorbel
1606:, p. 103
1337:(1862).
935:But see:
688:recorded
667:unsigned
495:Scotland
482:Scotland
438:Scotland
203:100 days
186:Archives
56:get help
29:This is
27:article.
619:on the
522:on the
413:on the
386:Fashion
377:Fashion
333:Fashion
304:B-class
255:realise
154:WP refs
142:scholar
1693:WP:THE
1019:usage.
745:source
646:origin
310:scale.
251:colour
126:Google
1645:9 May
1610:9 May
1346:time.
986:1785.
857:OGWFP
291:This
169:JSTOR
130:books
84:Seek
1684:Talk
1668:talk
1647:2023
1612:2023
1534:ISBN
1228:ISBN
1143:talk
927:talk
904:talk
861:talk
808:talk
783:talk
743:The
701:talk
675:talk
583:Kilt
514:High
484:and
162:FENS
136:news
73:and
25:Kilt
1709:😼
1562:😼
1512:😼
1475:😼
1447:😼
1427:😼
1404:😼
1374:😼
1323:😼
1282:😼
1266:😼
1250:😼
1210:😼
1181:😼
971:😼
884:😼
830:😼
724:😼
648:.
611:Top
405:Mid
176:TWL
1736::
1697:—
1695:.
1682:|
1670:)
1550:—
1500:—
1495:77
1493:.
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