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equipment or weatherproof fabrics, Crowley's statement that "neither man nor beast was injured" highlights the pioneering spirit and bravery of the attempt. The failures were also attributed to sickness (Crowley was suffering the residual effects of malaria), a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions – of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for the longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather. An
Austrian climber named Pfannl became sick with
358:
on his first major trek. Conway and
Eckenstein had a deep personality conflict, and Eckenstein withdrew from the expedition after six months. In Kashmir, he conducted bouldering contests for the natives – possibly the first such "formal" competitions ever. Eckenstein collected his letters and diary
370:
were also members of the expedition. Upon arrival in India, Eckenstein was detained by
British authorities for three weeks on suspicion of being a spy, and not allowed to enter Kashmir. He and Crowley were convinced that Martin Conway was responsible for trying to interfere with their attempt on
374:
In the early 1900s, modern transportation did not exist: It took "fourteen days just to reach the foot of the mountain". After five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6,525 metres (21,407 ft) – although considering the difficulty of the challenge, and the lack of modern climbing
321:
to six men, including "OSCAR ECKENSTEIN – who trained me to follow the trail" and he praises
Eckenstein in several passages of the book, mentioning his gymnastic strength, including his ability to do one-arm chin ups. In 1900 Eckenstein travelled to Mexico to climb there with Crowley, they also
391:
shaft measured 120–130 cm in length. Eckenstein started the trend toward shorter ice axes with a lighter model measuring 85–86 cm, which could be used single handed. Initially, this innovation was criticised by well-known climbers of the era, including his nemesis
426:
also contributed to this book. When the book was published in 1920, Farrar wrote to
Winthrop Young: "The book is magnificent ... It will be standard for so long as mankind is interested in mountaineering. The profound amount of work put into it staggers me."
407:
He was an advocate of guideless climbing in a period when conventional thinking in the Alpine Club called for gentlemen climbers to be led to the top of peaks by paid professional guides.
235:
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He was a railway engineer for most of his life – well educated, and insufferably arrogant (some said). He was not one to mince words, and a long feud with the
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at the high point, which
Crowley diagnosed. The climb was abandoned, and Pfannl was evacuated to lower elevations and survived.
269:, on the Eckenstein Boulder at Llanberis Pass he taught Archer Thomson the art of balance climbing, according to Winthrop Young.
971:
362:
Eckenstein was the leader of the first serious attempt to climb K2 in 1902. The attempt was on the
Northeast Ridge,
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on 8 August 1887; on 10 July 1906, together with Karl Blodig and Alexis
Brocherel, he made the first ascent of
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Eckenstein married
Margery Edwards in February 1918, when he was 58. They lived in the small town of
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K2, and only when they threatened to take the matter to the newspapers was
Eckenstein released.
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notes from this expedition into a book published under the title 'The Karakorams and Kashmir'.
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Eckenstein was one of the few people who readily climbed with mystic and magician
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257:, though their relationship was not always smooth, and in North Wales with
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792:) (Coronet ed.). London: Hodder and Stoughton. pp. 152–157.
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as well as analysing both knots and nail patterns for climbing boots.
923:"Oscar Eckenstein . . . The First Documented Advocate of Bouldering"
215:, the polymath feminist, and Amelia who was to marry Julius Cyriax.
89:
322:
climbed together on the expedition led by Eckenstein to attempt
197:
193:
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Sybil Oldfield, 'Eckenstein, Lina Dorina Johanna (1857–1931)’,
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In 1918 O.E. married Margery Edwards. There were no children.
180:, and the leader of the first serious expedition to attempt
323:
181:
140:
922:
400:. Eckenstein is also credited with designing the modern
30:"Eckenstein" redirects here. For the Swiss rescuer, see
745:
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley: An Autohagiography
519:, Oxford University Press, 2004; online edn, Sept 2014
342:
region in 1892. The expedition was sponsored by the
881:
Geoffrey Winthrop Young: Poet, Educator, Mountaineer
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Dean, David; Blakeney, T.S.; Dangar, D.F.O. (1960).
226:in 1885. He was an early and active member of the
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139:leader of the first serious expedition to attempt
156:(9 September 1859 – 8 April 1921) was an English
334:Eckenstein was a member of an expedition led by
27:English rock climber and mountaineer (1859–1921)
786:A Magick Life: A Biography of Aleister Crowley
748:. London; Boston: Routledge & Kegan Paul.
854:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
821:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
717:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
615:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
543:
541:
491:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
439:caused many of its members to denigrate him.
431:Personality and conflict with the Alpine Club
218:He was a railway engineer and worked for the
8:
39:
883:. Hodder & Stoughton. pp. 224–233.
688:. London: T. Fisher Unwin. pp. 1–253.
451:. His health soon declined and he died of
220:International Railway Congress Association
47:
38:
531:Dumler, Helmut and Burkhardt, Willi P.,
414:with his classic mountaineering manual,
987:British people of German-Jewish descent
850:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
817:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
713:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
611:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
517:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
487:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
475:
387:In the late 19th century, the typical
383:Innovations in equipment and technique
230:. Interested in the life of explorer
1007:20th-century deaths from tuberculosis
313:, he mentions that they first met at
7:
638:
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551:The Confessions of Aleister Crowley
245:Rock climbing in the United Kingdom
101:rock climber, mountaineer, engineer
912:highly critical of the Alpine Club
770:A timeline of human activity on K2
309:. In Crowley's autobiography, the
249:Eckenstein climbed in the English
25:
301:Friendship with Aleister Crowley
164:, and a pioneer in the sport of
154:Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein
997:Sports inventors and innovators
784:(2001) . "Rhythms of Rapture".
317:in 1898. Crowley dedicated the
1012:Tuberculosis deaths in England
535:, London: Diadem, 1993, p. 198
533:The High Mountains of the Alps
1:
645:"Oscar Eckenstein, 1859-1921"
396:, a prominent member of the
982:Jewish British sportspeople
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742:Crowley, Aleister (1979).
686:The Karakorams and Kashmir
684:Eckenstein, Oscar (1896).
575:"Mountaineering in Mexico"
573:Eckenstein, Oscar (1903).
548:Crowley, Aleister (1969).
348:Royal Geographical Society
273:Mountaineering in the Alps
208:. His mother was English.
192:Eckenstein's father was a
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992:19th-century English Jews
977:British mountain climbers
967:20th-century British Jews
255:George and Ashley Abraham
172:, he was an innovator in
168:. Inventor of the modern
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879:Hankinson, Alan (1995).
465:History of rock climbing
178:mountaineering equipment
521:accessed 1 October 2015
412:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
354:, and included a young
265:. An early advocate of
259:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
53:Eckenstein in the 1890s
846:Rowell, Galen (1977).
813:Rowell, Galen (1977).
709:Rowell, Galen (1977).
607:Rowell, Galen (1977).
483:Rowell, Galen (1977).
111:Margery Edwards (1918)
972:British rock climbers
937:Origins of Bouldering
582:Climbers Club Journal
236:Royal Asiatic Society
228:National Liberal Club
204:following the failed
263:J. M. Archer Thomson
59:Personal information
352:British Association
279:Matthias Zurbriggen
43:
921:John Gill (2006).
330:The Baltoro and K2
238:before his death.
206:revolution of 1848
202:Kingdom of Prussia
174:climbing technique
1002:British inventors
865:978-0-87156-184-8
832:978-0-87156-184-8
799:978-0-340-71806-3
728:978-0-87156-184-8
695:978-1-110-86203-0
626:978-0-87156-184-8
502:978-0-87156-184-8
420:John Percy Farrar
336:Sir Martin Conway
289:(4,241 m) in the
211:His sisters were
200:who had fled the
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340:Baltoro Muztagh
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196:socialist from
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410:He assisted
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291:Pennine Alps
283:first ascent
281:he made the
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158:rock climber
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84:(1921-04-08)
82:8 April 1921
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962:1921 deaths
957:1859 births
760:Chapter 16.
453:consumption
437:Alpine Club
398:Alpine Club
368:Guy Knowles
319:Confessions
311:Confessions
222:founded in
162:mountaineer
951:Categories
471:References
443:Later life
267:bouldering
188:Background
166:bouldering
70:1859-09-09
18:Eckenstein
664:0065-6569
455:in 1921.
356:C.G.Bruce
326:in 1902.
136:Known for
942:Obituary
459:See also
350:and the
224:Brussels
143:, (1902)
122:(sister)
116:Relative
669:15 July
592:30 July
558:30 July
402:crampon
389:ice axe
338:to the
285:of the
170:crampon
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623:
499:
346:, the
194:Jewish
107:Spouse
856:36–40
719:87–88
648:(PDF)
617:36–37
578:(PDF)
449:Oving
253:with
90:Oving
893:See
860:ISBN
827:ISBN
794:ISBN
750:ISBN
723:ISBN
690:ISBN
671:2024
660:ISSN
621:ISBN
594:2024
560:2024
497:ISBN
422:and
366:and
261:and
198:Bonn
176:and
160:and
79:Died
64:Born
656:#65
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823:90
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635:^
619:.
586:#5
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324:K2
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182:K2
141:K2
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