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first place. Before you climb snow slopes or travel on glaciers, self-arrest is a skill you should practice, practice, practice until it becomes second nature. There are different ways to get into the self-arrest position depending on your body orientation when you fall (see below). But the end goal is the same: Stop your fall by planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow and using your body to stop your momentum.
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349:, these two tools were merged to create the first true ice axe around 1840. Early ice axes had a vertical adze, with the cutting edge aligned with the direction of the shaft, as in a conventional axe. This design lasted until at least 1860, but eventually the adze was rotated to the current position, perpendicular to the direction of the shaft. The Italian Alpine Club published a book in 1889 entitled
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434:(UIAA) established formal standards for ice axe safety and performance. This led to the replacement of the traditional wooden shaft by metal alloy shafts. Ergonomically curved handles became widespread in 1986. Use of modern aluminum alloys have led to a dramatic reduction in the weight of some ice axes. One model now on the market, the
282:
Modern mountaineers often carry shorter ice axes 45–60 cm (18–24 in), for general use, with anything over 60 cm (24 in) typically regarded as too large and unwieldy for chopping steps or climbing steep snow. A walking pole (providing a third point of contact), although stabilising
680:
After proper footwork, knowing how to self-arrest adds another layer of security when you're mountaineering. You should consider this skill an insurance policy and not something you want to have to use in real time. It's far better to rely on good, balanced footwork to prevent a fall or slip in the
379:
Early ice axes had picks and adzes of about equal lengths. By the beginning of the 20th century, the pick lengthened to about twice the length of the adze. Improvements in crampon design (pioneered by
Eckenstein in 1908) and ice climbing technique led to use of shorter, lighter ice axes appropriate
278:
The old method to approximate the correct length of an ice axe was for the climber to hold the axe (spike facing the ground) at his/her side while standing relaxed. The spike of the ice axe should barely touch the ground when the climber stands fully upright holding the axe in this manner. This may
426:
led a significant redesign of ice axes, working with initially reluctant manufacturer
Charlet to develop a 55-centimetre-long (22 in) ice axe with a dramatically curved pick. Chouinard believed that "a curve compatible with the arc of the axe's swing would allow the pick to stay put better in
341:
hunter and crystal collector, had experience with high mountain travel, and
Paccard had made previous attempts to climb the peak. Illustrations show Balmat carrying two separate tools that would later be merged into the ice axe – an alpenstock (or baton) and a small axe that could be used to chop
438:
Corsa, weighs only 205 g (7.2 oz) with a 50-centimetre-long (20 in) shaft. One expert rated this lightweight ice axe as "ideal for low angle glacier travel" but said he "craved the solid and secure heft of a true steel mountain ax" in more demanding steep alpine conditions.
129:. Ice tools have shorter and more curved shafts; stronger, sharper, and more curved replaceable picks, and often ergonomic grips and finger rests. Used in a pair, one is usually equipped with an adze for chipping and clearing snow whilst the other has a hammer to aid gear placement.
81:
On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp
117:
Basic ice axes are designed for use in snow conditions for general mountaineering, and are adequate for basic support and self-arrest. Technical ice axes, which may have curved shafts, are strong enough to be used for steep or vertical ice climbing and belaying on such
77:
in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand.
399:. The other climbers attempted to rescue him by lowering him down the mountain by rope, wrapped in a sleeping bag. While crossing a steep ice sheet, a slip caused Gilkey and five other climbers to begin falling down a steep slope. Climber
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Shaft — straight or slightly angled, typically wider front-to-back than side-to-side, flat on the sides and smoothly rounded on the ends. Traditional shafts were made of wood, but are now almost exclusively of lightweight metals (such as
270:
Ice-axe spike-to-head lengths used to generally range from 60–90 cm (24–35 in). This is just too short to be used as a walking stick on level ground (the way its forebear, the 150-centimetre-long (5 ft) 19th century
40:
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loop sewn on its rear base (off to one side to allow the pick to stay behind the hiker), together with a means to restrain its shaft. Rucksacks with attachment points for two ice axes are also available, popular in
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the roped climbers, saving their lives. (Gilkey, however, later in the same descent was swept away by an avalanche. Remains of his lost corpse were discovered in 1993.) Schoening's ice axe is now on display at the
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started the trend toward shorter ice axes with a lighter model measuring 85–86 cm (33–34 in). Initially, this innovation was criticized by well-known climbers of the era, including
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and racing, where weight is of paramount concern, manufacturers have produced short (~45 cm (18 in)) and light (200–300 g (7–11 oz)) ice axes. Some of these have
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the ice. I had noticed that a standard pick would often pop out when I placed my weight on it." Chouinard's idea worked and began a period of innovation in ice axe design.
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Leash – nylon webbing with an adjustable loop for securing the axe to hand. Often secured by a ring constrained to slide a limited distance on the shaft.
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606:. A pair is provided on each side, here with a 55 cm (22 in) ice axe on the left and a 50 cm (20 in) ice hammer on the right.
216:— a point at the base of the shaft used for balance and safety when the axe is held by its head in walking stick fashion. Usually made of steel.
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In the late 19th century, the typical ice axe shaft measured 120–130 cm (47–51 in) in length. British climber
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Pick and adze guard – a cover to protect from sharp edges and points when the axe is not being used.
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still be appropriate when the ice axe is to be used on relatively flat ground, most likely in glacier travel.
86:. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor.
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Leash stop – a rubber keeper or metal stud preventing the leash from slipping off of the ice axe.
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When not in use an ice axe is stored on the outside of a pack (rucksack). Many models come with a nylon
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Pick — the toothed pointed end of the head, typically slightly curved (aiding both in ergonomics and
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A 2011 Black
Diamond ice axe. 71 cm (28 in) long with a weight of 430 g (15 oz).
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Spike guard – a cover to protect from the sharp spike when the axe is not being used.
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113:(CEN). There are two classifications of ice axe, Basic (B/Type 1) and Technical (T/Type 2).
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that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of
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alloy heads/picks which are unlikely to be as effective or robust as steel heads/picks.
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Arrows showing upper and lower attachment loops on a 25 L (1,500 cu in)
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Hammer — the hammer is an alternative to the adze. May be used for aiding placement of
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Adze — the flat, wide end of the head used for chopping steps in hard snow and ice.
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Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizations such as the
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For similar but smaller tools used typically in pairs for ice climbing, see
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950:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books with American Alpine Club. pp.
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Fiorio e Ratti – The dangers of mountaineering and rules to avoid them
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919:. Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum. Archived from
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161:. A hole in the center is provided for attaching a wrist leash or
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to steeper ice climbs in the period between the world wars.
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A famous rescue involving an ice axe took place during the
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and making a slip less likely, is unlikely to stop a fall.
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A removable snow basket accessory installed on an ice axe
977:"C.A.M.P. Corsa Ice Axe: Too Light for a Real Challenge"
403:
wedged his ice axe alongside a boulder, and managed to
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A leather pick & adze guard installed on an ice axe
94:
The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled
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2388:
Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
345:
According to the earliest manufacturer of ice axes,
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368:, who was the leader of an early expedition to the
121:Specialized scaled-down ice axes used for vertical
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544:A lightweight CAMP Corsa ice axe purchased in 2007
432:Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme
149:An ice axe consists of at least five components:
107:Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme
798:. Grivel Mont Blanc - Since 1818. Archived from
766:"Choosing an ixe axe, crampons and winter boots"
301:Jacques Balmat carrying an axe and an alpenstock
251:Snow basket – similar to baskets on
979:. Alpinist 28: The Alpinist Mountain Standards
1032:
891:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
829:. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp.
153:Head – usually made of steel and featuring a
8:
636:Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (2003).
500:A metal handled ice axe from the late 1970s
456:A wooden handled ice axe from the mid-1970s
194:and steel alloys) or composites (including
2434:International Federation of Sport Climbing
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716:"Hill skills: your first axe and crampons"
665:"How to Use an Ice Axe for Mountaineering"
376:in 1892 of which Eckenstein was a member.
642:(7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers.
639:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
887:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
825:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods
628:
446:
1012:GoXplore Guides article on the Ice Axe
430:In 1978, the Safety Commission of the
313:The antecedent of the ice axe was the
111:European Committee for Standardization
55:6 – shaft with rubber grip
7:
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2506:
975:Goldie, Larry (25 September 2008).
385:Third American Karakoram Expedition
25:
2403:South African Climbing Federation
309:An 1872 diagram of ice axe design
102:in the event of a slip downhill.
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1375:IFSC World Championships winners
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443:Gallery of ice axes 1970s–2010s
2373:British Mountaineering Council
413:American Mountaineering Museum
391:in 1953. One of the climbers,
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241:Ice axe accessories include:
364:, a prominent member of the
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1007:Ice Axe for Mountaineering
619:where two tools are used.
290:
29:
27:Winter mountaineering tool
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2363:Appalachian Mountain Club
694:"Ice Axes: How to Choose"
333:made the first ascent of
53:5 – leash stop
2554:Mountaineering equipment
2278:Mountain Safety Research
2273:Mountain Equipment Co-op
942:Chouinard, Yvon (1978).
741:"How to Choose Ice Axes"
2408:South Tyrol Alpine Club
2203:Eastern Mountain Sports
2069:Canadian Alpine Journal
2062:American Alpine Journal
1325:Roof and tunnel hacking
858:No Shortcuts to the Top
770:www.expeditionguide.com
395:, was incapacitated by
2228:Holubar Mountaineering
2040:Magazines and journals
1370:IFSC World Cup winners
883:Rowell, Galen (1977).
821:Rowell, Galen (1977).
796:"History: The Ice-Axe"
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331:Michel-Gabriel Paccard
310:
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238:
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2353:Alpine Club of Canada
2263:Marmot Mountain Works
2218:GERRY Mountain Sports
1002:Ice Axe Buying Advice
854:Viesturs, Ed (2006).
601:
342:steps on icy slopes.
308:
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2383:Club Alpino Italiano
2368:Austrian Alpine Club
2358:American Alpine Club
594:Attachment to a pack
562:Weight: 280 g (
546:Length: 70 cm (
518:Weight: 960 g (
502:Length: 91 cm (
474:Weight: 840 g (
458:Length: 75 cm (
325:. On 8 August 1786,
57:7 – spike
51:4 – leash
49:3 – adze
47:2 – head
2378:Club Alpin Français
1752:Mountaineering boot
1365:Piolet d'Or winners
923:on 27 December 2009
663:Bloemsma, Katrina.
65:is a multi-purpose
45:1 – pick
2398:German Alpine Club
862:. Broadway Books.
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135:ski mountaineering
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1419:Historical events
1390:Eight-thousanders
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16:(Redirected from
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2418:USA Climbing
2318:Wild Country
2313:Therm-a-Rest
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2008:Campus board
1963:First ascent
1734:
1707:Ice and snow
1504:Belay device
1355:Alpine clubs
1315:Ropes course
1228:Alpine style
981:. Retrieved
970:
946:Climbing Ice
945:
937:
925:. Retrieved
921:the original
911:
886:
878:
857:
849:
824:
816:
804:. Retrieved
800:the original
773:. Retrieved
769:
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748:. Retrieved
744:
735:
723:. Retrieved
719:
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698:. Retrieved
688:
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672:. Retrieved
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631:
617:ice climbing
609:
429:
421:
382:
378:
372:region near
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123:ice climbing
104:
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80:
75:mountaineers
62:
60:
36:
2512:WikiProject
2348:Alpine Club
2343:Access Fund
2253:Lowe Alpine
2248:La Sportiva
1985:Fall factor
1878:Self-arrest
1854:Redpointing
1777:Snow anchor
1531:Boulder mat
1480:Daisy chain
1450:Terminology
1441:Terminology
1320:Rooftopping
1262:Hillwalking
1250:Dry-tooling
1216:Via ferrata
1129:Traditional
1107:Competition
1088:Multi-pitch
1071:Disciplines
983:27 November
927:27 November
917:"Artifacts"
806:29 November
700:11 February
366:Alpine Club
323:Middle Ages
221:Accessories
170:self-arrest
100:self-arrest
2528:Categories
2136:El Capitan
1900:Traversing
1849:Onsighting
1829:Glissading
1812:Dülfersitz
1807:Australian
1770:Transeiver
1715:Alpenstock
1648:Portaledge
1636:Copperhead
1575:Descenders
1509:Auto belay
1300:Commercial
1280:Buildering
1257:Scrambling
1167:Rock types
1158:Top roping
1095:Bouldering
623:References
393:Art Gilkey
335:Mont Blanc
321:since the
315:alpenstock
293:Alpenstock
291:See also:
273:alpenstock
212:Spike, or
196:fiberglass
180:protection
145:Components
109:(UIAA) or
96:alpenstock
2288:Patagonia
2171:Companies
2157:Hard Grit
2150:Free Solo
2018:MoonBoard
2013:Hangboard
1999:Training
1948:Guidebook
1923:Ape index
1888:Rope team
1802:Abseiling
1747:Ice screw
1653:Quickdraw
1536:Carabiner
1458:Equipment
1436:Technique
1402:Equipment
1285:Canyoning
1223:Himalayan
1151:Rope solo
1141:Free solo
674:6 January
576: oz)
560: in)
532: oz)
516: in)
488: oz)
472: in)
422:In 1966,
253:ski poles
163:carabiner
127:ice tools
2488:Category
2335:National
2233:JanSport
2208:Five Ten
2083:Desnivel
2076:Climbing
2055:Alpinist
1980:Exposure
1958:Chipping
1905:Tyrolean
1895:Spotting
1866:Crevasse
1844:Flashing
1834:Jumaring
1819:Belaying
1782:Snowshoe
1740:Ice tool
1730:Crampons
1580:Figure-8
1492:Ascender
1360:Climbers
1100:Highball
1083:Big wall
1048:Climbing
775:10 April
750:10 April
725:10 April
604:rucksack
436:C.A.M.P.
207:filament
192:titanium
188:aluminum
139:aluminum
71:climbing
43:Ice axe
32:Ice tool
2500:Commons
2454:(UIMLA)
2448:(UIAGM)
1839:Leading
1756:Rescue
1735:Ice axe
1685:Camalot
1619:Lanyard
1602:Skyhook
1587:Harness
1558:Dynamic
1541:Maillon
1514:Glasses
1395:Everest
1386:Deaths
1305:Parkour
893:226–234
612:webbing
571:⁄
555:⁄
527:⁄
511:⁄
483:⁄
467:⁄
370:Baltoro
339:chamois
287:History
214:ferrule
118:ground.
90:History
63:ice axe
18:Piolets
2476:Portal
2442:(UIAA)
2436:(IFSC)
2268:Millet
2258:Mammut
2223:Grivel
2193:Deuter
2111:Summit
1995:Guides
1990:Grades
1861:Rescue
1795:Action
1697:Tricam
1663:Grigri
1609:Hammer
1563:Static
1519:Gloves
1487:Anchor
1407:Brands
1211:Alpine
958:
899:
866:
837:
646:
347:Grivel
204:carbon
200:Kevlar
67:hiking
2293:Petzl
2243:Kelty
2033:Media
1968:Pitch
1933:Clean
1916:Other
1765:RECCO
1692:Shoes
1680:SLCDs
1675:Sling
1643:Piton
1592:Hooks
1570:Chalk
1497:Croll
1475:Aider
1412:Knots
1348:Lists
1330:Slide
1295:Grass
1290:Crane
1273:Other
1245:Mixed
1174:Crack
1124:Sport
1112:Speed
1055:Types
831:36–40
696:. REI
405:belay
84:belay
2534:Axes
2183:CAMP
1973:Topo
1943:Beta
1871:Self
1668:Revo
1658:SLDs
1597:Fifi
1553:Cord
1526:Bolt
1467:Rock
1335:Tree
1310:Pole
1189:Slab
1184:Roof
1179:Face
1136:Solo
1119:Free
985:2009
956:ISBN
929:2009
897:ISBN
864:ISBN
835:ISBN
808:2009
777:2018
752:2018
727:2018
702:2014
676:2024
644:ISBN
329:and
319:Alps
266:Size
159:adze
157:and
155:pick
133:For
69:and
2303:REI
2298:Rab
1631:Nut
1624:PAC
1614:Hex
1240:Ice
1078:Aid
745:REI
669:REI
415:in
387:to
202:or
61:An
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182:.
165:.
34:.
20:)
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