Knowledge (XXG)

Ice axe

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first place. Before you climb snow slopes or travel on glaciers, self-arrest is a skill you should practice, practice, practice until it becomes second nature. There are different ways to get into the self-arrest position depending on your body orientation when you fall (see below). But the end goal is the same: Stop your fall by planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow and using your body to stop your momentum.
2483: 2471: 349:, these two tools were merged to create the first true ice axe around 1840. Early ice axes had a vertical adze, with the cutting edge aligned with the direction of the shaft, as in a conventional axe. This design lasted until at least 1860, but eventually the adze was rotated to the current position, perpendicular to the direction of the shaft. The Italian Alpine Club published a book in 1889 entitled 226: 2507: 2495: 298: 306: 434:(UIAA) established formal standards for ice axe safety and performance. This led to the replacement of the traditional wooden shaft by metal alloy shafts. Ergonomically curved handles became widespread in 1986. Use of modern aluminum alloys have led to a dramatic reduction in the weight of some ice axes. One model now on the market, the 282:
Modern mountaineers often carry shorter ice axes 45–60 cm (18–24 in), for general use, with anything over 60 cm (24 in) typically regarded as too large and unwieldy for chopping steps or climbing steep snow. A walking pole (providing a third point of contact), although stabilising
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After proper footwork, knowing how to self-arrest adds another layer of security when you're mountaineering. You should consider this skill an insurance policy and not something you want to have to use in real time. It's far better to rely on good, balanced footwork to prevent a fall or slip in the
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Early ice axes had picks and adzes of about equal lengths. By the beginning of the 20th century, the pick lengthened to about twice the length of the adze. Improvements in crampon design (pioneered by Eckenstein in 1908) and ice climbing technique led to use of shorter, lighter ice axes appropriate
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The old method to approximate the correct length of an ice axe was for the climber to hold the axe (spike facing the ground) at his/her side while standing relaxed. The spike of the ice axe should barely touch the ground when the climber stands fully upright holding the axe in this manner. This may
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led a significant redesign of ice axes, working with initially reluctant manufacturer Charlet to develop a 55-centimetre-long (22 in) ice axe with a dramatically curved pick. Chouinard believed that "a curve compatible with the arc of the axe's swing would allow the pick to stay put better in
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hunter and crystal collector, had experience with high mountain travel, and Paccard had made previous attempts to climb the peak. Illustrations show Balmat carrying two separate tools that would later be merged into the ice axe – an alpenstock (or baton) and a small axe that could be used to chop
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Corsa, weighs only 205 g (7.2 oz) with a 50-centimetre-long (20 in) shaft. One expert rated this lightweight ice axe as "ideal for low angle glacier travel" but said he "craved the solid and secure heft of a true steel mountain ax" in more demanding steep alpine conditions.
129:. Ice tools have shorter and more curved shafts; stronger, sharper, and more curved replaceable picks, and often ergonomic grips and finger rests. Used in a pair, one is usually equipped with an adze for chipping and clearing snow whilst the other has a hammer to aid gear placement. 81:
On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp
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Basic ice axes are designed for use in snow conditions for general mountaineering, and are adequate for basic support and self-arrest. Technical ice axes, which may have curved shafts, are strong enough to be used for steep or vertical ice climbing and belaying on such
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in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand.
399:. The other climbers attempted to rescue him by lowering him down the mountain by rope, wrapped in a sleeping bag. While crossing a steep ice sheet, a slip caused Gilkey and five other climbers to begin falling down a steep slope. Climber 185:
Shaft — straight or slightly angled, typically wider front-to-back than side-to-side, flat on the sides and smoothly rounded on the ends. Traditional shafts were made of wood, but are now almost exclusively of lightweight metals (such as
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Ice-axe spike-to-head lengths used to generally range from 60–90 cm (24–35 in). This is just too short to be used as a walking stick on level ground (the way its forebear, the 150-centimetre-long (5 ft) 19th century
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loop sewn on its rear base (off to one side to allow the pick to stay behind the hiker), together with a means to restrain its shaft. Rucksacks with attachment points for two ice axes are also available, popular in
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the roped climbers, saving their lives. (Gilkey, however, later in the same descent was swept away by an avalanche. Remains of his lost corpse were discovered in 1993.) Schoening's ice axe is now on display at the
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started the trend toward shorter ice axes with a lighter model measuring 85–86 cm (33–34 in). Initially, this innovation was criticized by well-known climbers of the era, including
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and racing, where weight is of paramount concern, manufacturers have produced short (~45 cm (18 in)) and light (200–300 g (7–11 oz)) ice axes. Some of these have
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the ice. I had noticed that a standard pick would often pop out when I placed my weight on it." Chouinard's idea worked and began a period of innovation in ice axe design.
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Leash – nylon webbing with an adjustable loop for securing the axe to hand. Often secured by a ring constrained to slide a limited distance on the shaft.
1394: 361: 1379: 275:, was), but is ergonomic when ascending steep slopes. For flatter ground, where consequences of a slip are not large, walking poles are more appropriate. 2433: 2402: 1428: 1423: 638: 606:. A pair is provided on each side, here with a 55 cm (22 in) ice axe on the left and a 50 cm (20 in) ice hammer on the right. 216:— a point at the base of the shaft used for balance and safety when the axe is held by its head in walking stick fashion. Usually made of steel. 110: 1389: 916: 384: 1038: 2553: 1374: 1359: 959: 900: 867: 838: 647: 2511: 255:, temporarily mounted on the shaft close to the spike to keep the shaft from sinking into soft snow. Not at all common in Europe. 795: 2372: 412: 305: 2302: 1679: 664: 356:
In the late 19th century, the typical ice axe shaft measured 120–130 cm (47–51 in) in length. British climber
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Pick and adze guard – a cover to protect from sharp edges and points when the axe is not being used.
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still be appropriate when the ice axe is to be used on relatively flat ground, most likely in glacier travel.
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Leash stop – a rubber keeper or metal stud preventing the leash from slipping off of the ice axe.
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When not in use an ice axe is stored on the outside of a pack (rucksack). Many models come with a nylon
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Pick — the toothed pointed end of the head, typically slightly curved (aiding both in ergonomics and
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A 2011 Black Diamond ice axe. 71 cm (28 in) long with a weight of 430 g (15 oz).
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Spike guard – a cover to protect from the sharp spike when the axe is not being used.
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that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of
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alloy heads/picks which are unlikely to be as effective or robust as steel heads/picks.
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Arrows showing upper and lower attachment loops on a 25 L (1,500 cu in)
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Hammer — the hammer is an alternative to the adze. May be used for aiding placement of
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Adze — the flat, wide end of the head used for chopping steps in hard snow and ice.
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Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizations such as the
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For similar but smaller tools used typically in pairs for ice climbing, see
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Fiorio e Ratti – The dangers of mountaineering and rules to avoid them
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
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to steeper ice climbs in the period between the world wars.
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A famous rescue involving an ice axe took place during the
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and making a slip less likely, is unlikely to stop a fall.
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A removable snow basket accessory installed on an ice axe
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wedged his ice axe alongside a boulder, and managed to
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A leather pick & adze guard installed on an ice axe
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The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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According to the earliest manufacturer of ice axes,
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
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(2003). 500:A metal handled ice axe from the late 1970s 456:A wooden handled ice axe from the mid-1970s 194:and steel alloys) or composites (including 2434:International Federation of Sport Climbing 2330: 2036: 1462: 1453: 1067: 1058: 1039: 1025: 1017: 716:"Hill skills: your first axe and crampons" 665:"How to Use an Ice Axe for Mountaineering" 376:in 1892 of which Eckenstein was a member. 642:(7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. 639:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills 887:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods 825:In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods 628: 446: 1012:GoXplore Guides article on the Ice Axe 430:In 1978, the Safety Commission of the 313:The antecedent of the ice axe was the 111:European Committee for Standardization 55:6 – shaft with rubber grip 7: 2494: 2506: 975:Goldie, Larry (25 September 2008). 385:Third American Karakoram Expedition 25: 2403:South African Climbing Federation 309:An 1872 diagram of ice axe design 102:in the event of a slip downhill. 2505: 2493: 2482: 2481: 2469: 1375:IFSC World Championships winners 581: 537: 493: 449: 443:Gallery of ice axes 1970s–2010s 2373:British Mountaineering Council 413:American Mountaineering Museum 391:in 1953. One of the climbers, 1: 241:Ice axe accessories include: 364:, a prominent member of the 2570: 1007:Ice Axe for Mountaineering 619:where two tools are used. 290: 29: 27:Winter mountaineering tool 2465: 2363:Appalachian Mountain Club 694:"Ice Axes: How to Choose" 333:made the first ascent of 53:5 – leash stop 2554:Mountaineering equipment 2278:Mountain Safety Research 2273:Mountain Equipment Co-op 942:Chouinard, Yvon (1978). 741:"How to Choose Ice Axes" 2408:South Tyrol Alpine Club 2203:Eastern Mountain Sports 2069:Canadian Alpine Journal 2062:American Alpine Journal 1325:Roof and tunnel hacking 858:No Shortcuts to the Top 770:www.expeditionguide.com 395:, was incapacitated by 2228:Holubar Mountaineering 2040:Magazines and journals 1370:IFSC World Cup winners 883:Rowell, Galen (1977). 821:Rowell, Galen (1977). 796:"History: The Ice-Axe" 607: 331:Michel-Gabriel Paccard 310: 302: 238: 230: 58: 2353:Alpine Club of Canada 2263:Marmot Mountain Works 2218:GERRY Mountain Sports 1002:Ice Axe Buying Advice 854:Viesturs, Ed (2006). 601: 342:steps on icy slopes. 308: 300: 236: 228: 42: 2383:Club Alpino Italiano 2368:Austrian Alpine Club 2358:American Alpine Club 594:Attachment to a pack 562:Weight: 280 g ( 546:Length: 70 cm ( 518:Weight: 960 g ( 502:Length: 91 cm ( 474:Weight: 840 g ( 458:Length: 75 cm ( 325:. 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1641: 1637: 1634: 1633: 1632: 1629: 1625: 1622: 1621: 1620: 1617: 1615: 1612: 1610: 1607: 1603: 1600: 1598: 1595: 1594: 1593: 1590: 1588: 1585: 1581: 1578: 1577: 1576: 1573: 1571: 1568: 1564: 1561: 1559: 1556: 1554: 1551: 1550: 1549: 1548:Climbing rope 1546: 1542: 1539: 1538: 1537: 1534: 1532: 1529: 1527: 1524: 1520: 1517: 1515: 1512: 1510: 1507: 1506: 1505: 1502: 1498: 1495: 1494: 1493: 1490: 1488: 1485: 1481: 1478: 1477: 1476: 1473: 1472: 1470: 1468: 1464: 1461: 1459: 1455: 1452: 1448: 1442: 1439: 1437: 1434: 1430: 1429:First ascents 1427: 1425: 1422: 1421: 1420: 1417: 1413: 1410: 1408: 1405: 1404: 1403: 1400: 1396: 1393: 1391: 1388: 1387: 1385: 1381: 1378: 1376: 1373: 1371: 1368: 1366: 1363: 1362: 1361: 1358: 1356: 1353: 1352: 1350: 1346: 1336: 1333: 1331: 1328: 1326: 1323: 1321: 1318: 1316: 1313: 1311: 1308: 1306: 1303: 1301: 1298: 1296: 1293: 1291: 1288: 1286: 1283: 1281: 1278: 1277: 1275: 1271: 1263: 1260: 1259: 1258: 1255: 1251: 1248: 1246: 1243: 1242: 1241: 1238: 1234: 1231: 1229: 1226: 1225: 1224: 1221: 1217: 1214: 1213: 1212: 1209: 1208: 1206: 1204: 1200: 1190: 1187: 1185: 1182: 1180: 1177: 1175: 1172: 1171: 1169: 1165: 1159: 1156: 1152: 1149: 1147: 1144: 1142: 1139: 1138: 1137: 1134: 1130: 1127: 1125: 1122: 1121: 1120: 1117: 1113: 1110: 1109: 1108: 1105: 1101: 1098: 1097: 1096: 1093: 1089: 1086: 1085: 1084: 1081: 1079: 1076: 1075: 1073: 1069: 1066: 1064: 1063:Rock climbing 1060: 1057: 1053: 1049: 1042: 1037: 1035: 1030: 1028: 1023: 1022: 1019: 1013: 1010: 1008: 1005: 1003: 1000: 999: 995: 978: 971: 968: 963: 961:0-87156-208-1 957: 953: 948: 947: 938: 935: 922: 918: 912: 909: 904: 902:0-87156-184-0 898: 894: 889: 888: 879: 876: 871: 869:9780767924702 865: 860: 859: 850: 847: 842: 840:0-87156-184-0 836: 832: 827: 826: 817: 814: 802:on 8 May 2008 801: 797: 791: 789: 787: 783: 771: 767: 761: 758: 746: 742: 736: 733: 721: 717: 711: 708: 695: 689: 686: 682: 670: 666: 659: 656: 651: 649:0-89886-828-9 645: 641: 640: 632: 629: 622: 620: 618: 613: 605: 600: 593: 584: 579: 540: 535: 496: 491: 452: 447: 442: 440: 437: 433: 428: 425: 420: 418: 414: 411: 406: 402: 398: 394: 390: 386: 381: 377: 375: 371: 367: 363: 362:Martin Conway 359: 354: 352: 348: 343: 340: 337:. Balmat, a 336: 332: 328: 324: 320: 316: 307: 299: 294: 286: 284: 280: 276: 274: 265: 260: 257: 254: 250: 247: 244: 243: 242: 235: 227: 220: 215: 211: 208: 205: 201: 197: 193: 189: 184: 181: 177: 174: 171: 167: 164: 160: 156: 152: 151: 150: 144: 142: 140: 136: 128: 125:are known as 124: 120: 116: 115: 114: 112: 108: 103: 101: 97: 89: 87: 85: 79: 76: 73:tool used by 72: 68: 64: 41: 37: 33: 19: 2549:Ice climbing 2510: 2498: 2486: 2474: 2418:USA Climbing 2318:Wild Country 2313:Therm-a-Rest 2155: 2148: 2141: 2134: 2129:The Alpinist 2127: 2109: 2102: 2095: 2088: 2081: 2074: 2067: 2060: 2053: 2046: 2008:Campus board 1963:First ascent 1734: 1707:Ice and snow 1504:Belay device 1355:Alpine clubs 1315:Ropes course 1228:Alpine style 981:. Retrieved 970: 946:Climbing Ice 945: 937: 925:. Retrieved 921:the original 911: 886: 878: 857: 849: 824: 816: 804:. Retrieved 800:the original 773:. Retrieved 769: 760: 748:. Retrieved 744: 735: 723:. Retrieved 719: 710: 698:. Retrieved 688: 679: 672:. Retrieved 668: 658: 637: 631: 617:ice climbing 609: 429: 421: 382: 378: 372:region near 355: 350: 344: 312: 281: 277: 269: 240: 148: 132: 123:ice climbing 104: 93: 80: 75:mountaineers 62: 60: 36: 2512:WikiProject 2348:Alpine Club 2343:Access Fund 2253:Lowe Alpine 2248:La Sportiva 1985:Fall factor 1878:Self-arrest 1854:Redpointing 1777:Snow anchor 1531:Boulder mat 1480:Daisy chain 1450:Terminology 1441:Terminology 1320:Rooftopping 1262:Hillwalking 1250:Dry-tooling 1216:Via ferrata 1129:Traditional 1107:Competition 1088:Multi-pitch 1071:Disciplines 983:27 November 927:27 November 917:"Artifacts" 806:29 November 700:11 February 366:Alpine Club 323:Middle Ages 221:Accessories 170:self-arrest 100:self-arrest 2528:Categories 2136:El Capitan 1900:Traversing 1849:Onsighting 1829:Glissading 1812:Dülfersitz 1807:Australian 1770:Transeiver 1715:Alpenstock 1648:Portaledge 1636:Copperhead 1575:Descenders 1509:Auto belay 1300:Commercial 1280:Buildering 1257:Scrambling 1167:Rock types 1158:Top roping 1095:Bouldering 623:References 393:Art Gilkey 335:Mont Blanc 321:since the 315:alpenstock 293:Alpenstock 291:See also: 273:alpenstock 212:Spike, or 196:fiberglass 180:protection 145:Components 109:(UIAA) or 96:alpenstock 2288:Patagonia 2171:Companies 2157:Hard Grit 2150:Free Solo 2018:MoonBoard 2013:Hangboard 1999:Training 1948:Guidebook 1923:Ape index 1888:Rope team 1802:Abseiling 1747:Ice screw 1653:Quickdraw 1536:Carabiner 1458:Equipment 1436:Technique 1402:Equipment 1285:Canyoning 1223:Himalayan 1151:Rope solo 1141:Free solo 674:6 January 576: oz) 560: in) 532: oz) 516: in) 488: oz) 472: in) 422:In 1966, 253:ski poles 163:carabiner 127:ice tools 2488:Category 2335:National 2233:JanSport 2208:Five Ten 2083:Desnivel 2076:Climbing 2055:Alpinist 1980:Exposure 1958:Chipping 1905:Tyrolean 1895:Spotting 1866:Crevasse 1844:Flashing 1834:Jumaring 1819:Belaying 1782:Snowshoe 1740:Ice tool 1730:Crampons 1580:Figure-8 1492:Ascender 1360:Climbers 1100:Highball 1083:Big wall 1048:Climbing 775:10 April 750:10 April 725:10 April 604:rucksack 436:C.A.M.P. 207:filament 192:titanium 188:aluminum 139:aluminum 71:climbing 43:Ice axe 32:Ice tool 2500:Commons 2454:(UIMLA) 2448:(UIAGM) 1839:Leading 1756:Rescue 1735:Ice axe 1685:Camalot 1619:Lanyard 1602:Skyhook 1587:Harness 1558:Dynamic 1541:Maillon 1514:Glasses 1395:Everest 1386:Deaths 1305:Parkour 893:226–234 612:webbing 571:⁄ 555:⁄ 527:⁄ 511:⁄ 483:⁄ 467:⁄ 370:Baltoro 339:chamois 287:History 214:ferrule 118:ground. 90:History 63:ice axe 18:Piolets 2476:Portal 2442:(UIAA) 2436:(IFSC) 2268:Millet 2258:Mammut 2223:Grivel 2193:Deuter 2111:Summit 1995:Guides 1990:Grades 1861:Rescue 1795:Action 1697:Tricam 1663:Grigri 1609:Hammer 1563:Static 1519:Gloves 1487:Anchor 1407:Brands 1211:Alpine 958:  899:  866:  837:  646:  347:Grivel 204:carbon 200:Kevlar 67:hiking 2293:Petzl 2243:Kelty 2033:Media 1968:Pitch 1933:Clean 1916:Other 1765:RECCO 1692:Shoes 1680:SLCDs 1675:Sling 1643:Piton 1592:Hooks 1570:Chalk 1497:Croll 1475:Aider 1412:Knots 1348:Lists 1330:Slide 1295:Grass 1290:Crane 1273:Other 1245:Mixed 1174:Crack 1124:Sport 1112:Speed 1055:Types 831:36–40 696:. REI 405:belay 84:belay 2534:Axes 2183:CAMP 1973:Topo 1943:Beta 1871:Self 1668:Revo 1658:SLDs 1597:Fifi 1553:Cord 1526:Bolt 1467:Rock 1335:Tree 1310:Pole 1189:Slab 1184:Roof 1179:Face 1136:Solo 1119:Free 985:2009 956:ISBN 929:2009 897:ISBN 864:ISBN 835:ISBN 808:2009 777:2018 752:2018 727:2018 702:2014 676:2024 644:ISBN 329:and 319:Alps 266:Size 159:adze 157:and 155:pick 133:For 69:and 2303:REI 2298:Rab 1631:Nut 1624:PAC 1614:Hex 1240:Ice 1078:Aid 745:REI 669:REI 415:in 387:to 202:or 61:An 2530:: 954:. 952:27 895:. 833:. 785:^ 768:. 743:. 718:. 678:. 667:. 548:27 520:33 504:35 476:29 460:29 419:. 389:K2 374:K2 209:). 198:, 190:, 172:). 1040:e 1033:t 1026:v 987:. 964:. 931:. 905:. 872:. 843:. 810:. 779:. 754:. 729:. 704:. 652:. 573:4 569:3 566:+ 564:9 557:2 553:1 550:+ 529:4 525:3 522:+ 513:4 509:3 506:+ 485:2 481:1 478:+ 469:2 465:1 462:+ 182:. 165:. 34:. 20:)

Index

Piolets
Ice tool

hiking
climbing
mountaineers
belay
alpenstock
self-arrest
Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme
European Committee for Standardization
ice climbing
ice tools
ski mountaineering
aluminum
pick
adze
carabiner
self-arrest
protection
aluminum
titanium
fiberglass
Kevlar
carbon
filament
ferrule


ski poles

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